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3,137 articles · 26 videos found · page 15 of 106

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Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp Monochrome
Seiko Upgrades Apr 30, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Upgrades its Prospex Diver GMT with more WR and a Micro-Adjust Clasp

Surprisingly, Seiko’s first mechanical dive watch with a GMT function was introduced to the collection only two years ago, with the references SPB381, SPB383, and the Save the Ocean limited edition reference SPB385. Inspired by the 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver, these office GMT watches came with a 200m water-resistance. Only a couple of months ago, […]

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko ? After getting into Apr 29, 2025

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko?

After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex Fratello
Grand Seiko Tudor Apr 14, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex

With more than 55,000 visitors, Watches and Wonders 2025 saw the fair’s greatest attendance to date. In his closing press release, President Cyrille Vigneron proudly named it a must-attend professional event and a platform for watchmaking maisons to express their creativity. I agree, although, after 26 touch-and-try sessions, one discovers a pattern revealing that brand […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Gerard’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Tudor, And Rolex to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s Tentagraph Grand Seiko’s Apr 10, 2025

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”

When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape.  The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety.  Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...

First Look – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007 Apr 3, 2025

First Look – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007

Grand Seiko got into the spotlight in 2023 with the launch of its first-ever mechanical chronograph, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC001, filling the gap in the brand’s 60-year legacy of precision watchmaking – surprisingly, it was missing one until recently. For 2025, Grand Seiko introduces the Tentagraph SLGC007 – a near-identical successor to the original, […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Grand Seiko Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Grand Seiko introduced a wide variety of novelties at Watches and Wonders this year. The new U.F.A. models are, without a doubt, the most important ones. However, a humble highlight that also stands out for us is the new Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323. This new addition to the Heritage collection combines a modestly sized 36.5mm 44GS-style […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ What’s Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The Purple Dial of the Grand Seiko 44GS SBGW323 ‘Kiri’

What’s particularly reassuring about Grand Seiko’s more compact watches is that they don’t cut corners. When Grand Seiko introduced its 44GS reference in a 36.5mm case, the characteristics of its 1967 ancestor, the model that cemented the tenets of the “Grammar of Design”, were dutifully respected. Everything admired about Grand Seiko was present but in […]

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again Apr 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber

2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...

Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 Fratello
Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Mar 31, 2025

Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009

When Grand Seiko launched the first Tentagraph in 2023, it was also the brand’s first all-mechanical chronograph. Two years later, two new Tentagraph models debut - the Evolution 9 SLGC007, which is a new colorway of the 2023 SLGC001, and the bold Tokyo Lion SLGC009, a watch in the Sport Collection. Yes, Grand Seiko presents […] Visit Grand Seiko Presents Two Completely Different Tentagraph Watches: The Cool Evolution 9 SLGC007 And The Wild Tokyo Lion SLGC009 to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003 Fratello
Grand Seiko Steps Into Mar 31, 2025

Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003

Seiko founded Grand Seiko to pursue watchmaking excellence. Most commonly, this mission translated into creating the most accurate watches possible. Later on, aesthetics also played an increasingly important part thanks to the Grammar of Design. Grand Seiko was Seiko’s answer to the Swiss domination of the industry, and the line offered watches that could compete […] Visit Grand Seiko Steps Into The Future With New Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 And SLGB003 to read the full article.

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 & SLGB003 (With Finally a Micro-Adjustment Clasp) Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 Mar 31, 2025

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 & SLGB003 (With Finally a Micro-Adjustment Clasp)

When talking about vintage Grand Seiko watches, some references or acronyms have a lot of meaning. For instance, 44GS refers to one of the most important models ever, the watch that initiated the Grammar of Design and the shape of all subsequent creations. The acronym VFA also has its importance. Standing for Very Fine Adjusted […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 Another Mar 30, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081

Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we’re matching up two professional titanium dive watches that come in under €5K. The first is the recently introduced Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081. This new version of the popular Marinemaster was released to celebrate 60 years of Seiko dive watches. The second is the Sinn T50, which debuted in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Sinn T50 Titanium Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 to read the full article.

Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References Worn & Wound
Seiko s Advanced Astron Collection Mar 17, 2025

Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References

If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Mike’s Picks From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Seiko, And Gallet Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Seiko Mar 17, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Mike’s Picks From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Seiko, And Gallet

It’s now my turn to pick the best vintage watches under €5K. Most of my colleagues have already taken their shot, and while some of their choices could have made my list, I’ve opted for unique selections. Let’s see what you think. Now, before I get into my picks for the best vintage watches under […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Mike’s Picks From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Seiko, And Gallet to read the full article.

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Refines Mar 17, 2025

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph

One of the flagship high-tech analogue watches in Seiko’s catalogue, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph has been reworked to give it visual elements more typically associated with Seiko’s higher-end mechanical watches. Amongst other things, the new Astron GPS chronograph features a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings, and facetted case details. It still retains the multi-function 5X83 movement that features GPS time- and time zone setting, perpetual calendar, and a six month power reserve on a full charge. Initial thoughts Someone recently asked me to recommend a useful watch for a person who has no interest in mechanical timepieces, with the condition that the watch has to be analogue and not look like a gadget. The Astron GPS chronograph fits the bill. The model’s newest iterations, four in all, have the styling details of a mechanical watch while having a multitude of high-tech features. One of its most useful features is the GPS time setting, which means the watch syncs with a GPS satellite and then displays the local time zone when travelling. The black and blue dial versions are especially restrained and well suited as a low-key everyday watch, though still a little large at over 44 mm in diameter. Useful watchmaking When sunlight is detected, the Astron GPS chronograph syncs with a GPS satellite automatically up to twice a day, while manual syncing can be done via a pusher in the case. Sunlight also powers the watch – under the dial ...

Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 15, 2025

Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways

Even though the Astron GPS Solar is 13 years old, I still find the tech fascinating because of the constant evolution of the movement and the design. So, of course, I was interested to read the press release accompanying the release of the edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 in four new colorways. […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 Fratello
Seiko Vanac Vs Toledano & Mar 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1

And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 to read the full article.