Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Tortue Is Back – And As A Monopusher Chronograph
Cartier adds one of its oldest shapes to the collectible Privé lineup, as a chronograph and a time-only limited edition.
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Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design
A new 39mm case brings updated proportions and new colors to a value-driven addition to the Doxa lineup.
SJX Watches
Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy
Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train. Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time. Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...
Hodinkee
Back In Stock: It's GP Ice Race Time And We've Got The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP To Celebrate
This is a limited edition of 250 that embodies the famed race, and there are only a few left.
Hodinkee
Year In Review: Our Style Editor On The Year's Biggest Watch-Design Trend
Last year, every other watch was green. The look of 2022 wasn't one color, but all of them all at once.
Video
A Watch Made For Adventure… Unboxing Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000
Here, we're unboxing Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000, a watch made for adventure. It’s a handsome, functional watch with an intricate glacier-patterned dial. Powered by the automatic Calibre MB 29.25,...
Quill & Pad
The Breguet A2: It Does Up to 40 Kilometers Per Hour and Doesn’t Tell the Time – Reprise
While Louis Charles Breguet (1880-1955), great-great-grandson of Abraham-Louis Breguet, was best known as an aviation pioneer, he also developed and manufactured the Breguet A2 electric car.
Worn & Wound
IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom
In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Birth of Kollokium, a new Indie Platform Driven by Design and Freedom
What happens when you put a reputable watch designer, a veteran industry mover and shaker and a renowned collector in the same room? The answer is Kollokium, a new project-based platform that is going to stir things up on the watch scene. Boldly stating that Kollokium is “not a brand”, the platform founded by Manuel […]
Monochrome
Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch
While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]
Quill & Pad
Why There Were No Winners in the 2023 GPHG Men’s and Mechanical Exception Categories and ‘My’ Proposed Solution to Ensure that it Doesn’t Happen Again
When the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards presentation ceremony finished, I was among the many who thought: what happened to the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories? Why were no winners of those categories announced? There has been conjecture, but I didn’t hear anything that really made sense to me. Here's what happened and why it will not happen again.
Video
Reviewing the most hyped affordable watch brands in 2026
Reviewing the most hyped affordable watch brands in 2026
Worn & Wound
Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture
To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial. The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape. The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Race-Ready Omega Made For A Legend, The Latest Edition Of The Breitling Navitimer, And A Limited Edition Treat From Jaeger-LeCoultre
Plus a Grand Seiko for the U.S. market and a Zenith for Japan.
Revolution
NYC Watch Guy, The Serious Watch Collector Who Doesn’t Take It Seriously | TCP
In this episode of The Collector’s Perspective, Wei Koh is joined by @nycwatchguy, who talks about his watch collecting journey, by starting from the very beginning - the 70s-era-dominating digital watches. He also talks about being Michael Jordan’s biggest fan and being the master of memes, despite the seriousness of the watch world.
Quill & Pad
Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Review: For the Love of (relatively) Affordable Design
Raman Kalra has had mixed emotions towards the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT, but also finding positives I never expected. Over the time with it, the Navygraf has shown him its personality and he has discovered small charms that weren’t obvious on first impressions.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulova Resurfaces Its 1972 ‘Devil Diver’ From The Depths Of Its Heritage Design Vault (In GMT Form)
Meet the colorful trio of newly minted Oceanographers.
Video
Exclusive Hands-on - The New Smaller Bulova Lunar Pilot
Exclusive Hands-on - The New Smaller Bulova Lunar Pilot
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design
Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch. Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light. The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Lexus Surprises with the GX 550, EPHJ Trade Show Presents the Future of Watchmaking, & Why is Everyone Watching T.V. with Subtitles On?
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Lexus Lexus Surprises With The GX 550 Via Lexus This past week, Lexus revealed the brand spanking new GX 550, and from the looks of the eye-catching SUV, it seems that the luxury automotive brand has hit all the right notes with its latest GX iteration. The GX 550 silhouette largely remains the same as the previous models, but it’s the subtle changes to the exterior that goes a long way and shifts the overall perspective from questionably-designed to damn-that-looks-good. Via Lexus The Lexus GX 550 retains the spindle grille, a design applied to the GX series and to other models across their entire line back in 2014. The grille itself was an attempt to add an aggressiveness to the overall aesthetic and frankly, it was a miss, especially with the GX. The GX 550 rectifies all of our qualms with a new-look bumper and body design that looks attractive and cohesive. A few added contours to the SUV body evens out the proportions and as a result, the GX 550 is less angular and more boxier, harkening back to the beloved look of the 90’s Toyota Land Cruisers and Lexu...
Quill & Pad
Chablis: A Top-Class Cru White Wine That Doesn’t Get The Love It Deserves – Reprise
Why is it that Chablis never seems to get the love it deserves? Why do so many wine lovers, even those who buy and drink Chablis wine, often dismiss it as merely a little sibling of White Burgundy? Ken Gargett considers that no matter where Chablis sits in your perception, it should not be ignored or treated with the contempt of familiarity. Chablis is one of the world’s great white wines.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise’s Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year
Lest we forget about the shiploads of IWCs. Ahead of the Academy Awards, we talked to the film's prop master to get the full story behind each timepiece.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: Do You Really Need A Dive Watch? The Easy-Wearing Omega Aqua Terra Doesn’t Think So.
Omega's everyday steel sports watch is casual enough for the pool party and dressy enough for the office.
Video
Meeting Nico Leonard & a WILD Encounter with the Patek CEO 🍸
Watches & Wonders 2026 was an absolute movie. From running into Nico Leonard on Day 1 to spotting Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern at an underground club, this is the unfiltered, brutal truth about the biggest watch sho...
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The JLC Master Ultra Thin Grande Is The Definition Of Clean Design
It's yet another under-the-radar stunner from Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Newest Releases Bring The Concept And Offshore Design Closer Together
While the Concept's movement may be the biggest achievement, the newest flying tourbillon chronograph might be the moment the Offshore comes into its own in a new, big way.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition
The latest special edition of the Chronograph 1 for GP Ice Race 2023.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Zachary Quinto Predicts The Financial Crisis Wearing A Porsche Design Chronograph In 'Margin Call'
An all-black chrono goes great with impending doom in our watch-related movie of the week.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The CIGA Design Blue Planet Uses Terrain To Tell The Time
The first Chinese watch brand to win at the GPHG is a poetic and potent example of watchmaking's continued global evolution.
Video
Watches & Wonders 2026: The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen & Saxonia Annual Calendar
A. Lange & Söhne brought the big guns for Watches & Wonders as it launched the latest Lumen edition. Based on the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, the new Lumen reveals a look at its innards through a tinted sa...