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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash OK maybe it’s Nov 5, 2024

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design

If you’ve been paying attention to the world of the Hype Watch over the last few years, you’ve no doubt stumbled upon the hypiest Hype Watch of them all: the Cartier Crash. OK, maybe it’s not the hypiest Hype Watch, but it’s close. In terms of genuine rarity and the Crash’s ability to show up on the wrists of movie stars, recording artists, and top tier influencers with regularity, it’s certainly a big part of the conversation. There are a lot of reasons why the Crash has become so sought after in recent years, but one of them is certainly a movement among the larger watch market to pieces that are, at least on the surface, more unusual, and lead with design. The Crash, then, is really part of the rising tide that is lifting the ship of shaped cases more generally. And that brings us to the Exaequo Melting Watch, an unusual avant-garde design with a shaped case that is, at least in some ways, Crash adjacent, but a small fraction of the cost and quite a bit more approachable.  Longtime enthusiasts might remember the Exaequo Softwatch from the 1990s, which has carried on cult favorite status even to this day. The Melting Watch is effectively the modern rendition of the Softwatch, and has been brought back this year in a well timed bid to take advantage of a movement toward uncommon shapes and designs.  While the possibly apocryphal story of the Crash involves a Tank being accidentally melted in a fire after a car wreck, Exaequo has always proudly touted their w...

First Look – Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony with a Design by Ora ïto Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Oct 9, 2024

First Look – Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony with a Design by Ora ïto

Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony collection with a special edition produced in collaboration with French designer Ito Morabito, more widely known as Ora ïto. The understated soul of the Patrimony is inspired by Vacheron’s slim men’s dress watches of the 1950s, a formula applied across the board to all Patrimony references. […]

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 26, 2024

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch

Nearly everything we regard as a modern luxury was once a military necessity. Okay, maybe that’s too broad a statement. But when you consider the impact of inventions like the Internet (set up as a Department of Defense communications network in 1969) and GPS navigation (which still uses military satellites from the 1970s) - not to mention the rise of the Jeep from humble troop conveyance to luxury SUV; the ubiquity of microwave ovens (which emerged from NATO radar experiments); and the enduring civilian stylishness of accessories like cargo pants and aviator sunglasses - a substantial case can be made that goods made to military specifications, or MIL-SPEC, have made an inestimable impact on everyday life. Nowhere is this influence seen more strongly than in the world of wristwatches - not only those intentionally designed for a military or tactical look, but in many styles and genres throughout the industry.  From Waistcoat to War: Origin of the Wristwatch While it’s unlikely that a distinctly elegant timepiece, like a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, will put you in the mind of battlefields and trenches, the truth is that wristwatches themselves are essentially a military invention - at least, the ones designed for men. Women had been wearing timepieces on pendants and bracelets for decades, since the middle of the 19th Century, but it was the utilitarian needs of soldiers in World War I that ushered them into general usage for ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The New York City Subway Turns 120, Peak Design Gets Outdoors, and the MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online Worn & Wound
Blancpain Sep 7, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The New York City Subway Turns 120, Peak Design Gets Outdoors, and the MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online  In what is probably the biggest bit of MoonSwatch news since the viral Bioceramic sensation was first unveiled a few years ago, Swatch has finally made some of the popular and colorful watches available through their online store. This was a move that was (kinda) promised by Swatch early on, then essentially forgotten about amid a never ending stream of new variants featuring cartoon dogs, moonphase complications, and even a wholly new collaboration with Blancpain. Still, MoonSwatch availability online will please many who simply don’t have access to a Swatch store or care to purchase on the secondary market. To start, only four variants will be available through the Swatch website: Mission on Earth, Mission to the Moon, Mission to the Sun, and Mission to Mars, and they’ll only be available for customers in the United States and China. At the time of this writing, all four are in stock and ready to ship, so if you’ve been after a MoonSwatch with no lines and minimal waiting, now’s your chance. Peak Design Gets Outdoors  It’s no ...

Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Aug 12, 2024

Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer

Ask any auto enthusiast how important their weekend drive time is to them, and you’ll likely hear responses with adjectives like: special, critical, personal, and even sacred. It’s all about setting aside a moment to be one with the road. But it is also about making some time to reset yourself for the week ahead. This can certainly be accomplished behind the wheel of your favorite automobile, but this important ritual of resetting yourself each week can happen in various ways-as long as it clears the mind and revs the soul. Citizen is celebrating this special drive time with a new limited edition chronograph based on their original Bullhead from 1973. This time they’re leveraging that all important concept of strength-to-weight ratio to the world of racing by making it in their proprietary Super Titanium case material. The all-new Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer is that useful reminder and an ideal copilot for this vital weekly reset. The post Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy SJX Watches
Mar 8, 2024

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom Worn & Wound
IWC Chief Dec 22, 2023

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom

In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch Monochrome
Universal Genève Dec 4, 2023

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch

While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]

Why There Were No Winners in the 2023 GPHG Men’s and Mechanical Exception Categories and ‘My’ Proposed Solution to Ensure that it Doesn’t Happen Again Quill & Pad
Nov 17, 2023

Why There Were No Winners in the 2023 GPHG Men’s and Mechanical Exception Categories and ‘My’ Proposed Solution to Ensure that it Doesn’t Happen Again

When the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards presentation ceremony finished, I was among the many who thought: what happened to the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories? Why were no winners of those categories announced? There has been conjecture, but I didn’t hear anything that really made sense to me. Here's what happened and why it will not happen again.

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 2, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design

Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch.  Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light.  The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...