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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look – The Spectacular Pink Gold Edition of the Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Dec 19, 2025

First Look – The Spectacular Pink Gold Edition of the Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement

A conundrum shared by watchmakers for centuries concerns the issue of constant force, or how to produce a steady, unwavering stream of power from the mainspring to the regulating organ to prevent rate variations and maintain amplitude consistency. The big question is how? Taking the bull by the horns, Girard-Perregaux tackled the dilemma with the […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More Fratello
Tudor Dec 19, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More

All right, everyone, it’s my turn to tell you about my favorite watches of 2025. With the calendar winding down, it’s remarkable how close the end of the year suddenly feels. The past few weeks have slipped by at an almost unfair pace, but stepping back for a moment makes one thing obvious: it’s been […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More to read the full article.

Year in Review: the Best Watches Under $5,000 of 2025 Worn & Wound
Dec 18, 2025

Year in Review: the Best Watches Under $5,000 of 2025

I will be the first to admit that selecting the top watches of the year under, over, or between certain price points is an arbitrary exercise and perhaps not all that useful. Still, it’s the end of the year, and the end of year is all about list making (and reflecting on the last 12 months, making goals for the future – but mostly it’s about lists). Figuring out where the “value” is in the current watch market is a challenge, so setting the top price for the “Best Watches Under…” article does actually kind of mean something this year. One of the predominant story lines on our blog, in Instagram and YouTube comments, and at Windup Watch Fairs and other other meetups all year long has been price sensitivity. Specifically, that watches are far too expensive, and we’ve entered a period where you’re now expected to pay more, but receive less.  That narrative makes a certain amount of sense when you examine specific sectors of the industry. But I think there are still pockets of great value and excellent design if you look for them and have a somewhat adventurous sensibility. As I looked back at some of my favorite releases of the year that represent what I think of as genuine value, it felt like the $4,000-$5,000 range was the sweet spot, with some great options well below that as well, and this list reflects that trend for the most part.  I’ve tried to stick primarily to smaller makers, indies and microbrands, for the purposes of this particular list, b...

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte SJX Watches
Dec 18, 2025

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte

The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...

Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Hajime Asaoka Kikuchi Nakagawa Dec 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi

We have seen a massive increase in interesting small Japanese brands in recent years. Great examples are Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Minase. One of the newest microbrands is Kiwame Tokyo, which presented its inaugural Kurotsuki and Usuki models not too long ago. The watches stood out because of their beautiful dials. For […] Visit Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi to read the full article.

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² Fratello
Dec 18, 2025

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring²

Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.

Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 Fratello
Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S Dec 18, 2025

Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058

The first thing that popped up in my head when laying eyes on the Spring Drive-powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 was “Root Beer.” The colors, shapes, and vibe make me think of that famous GMT watch made by The Crown. It’s a good thing this watch is designed for the U.S. […] Visit Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future Fratello
Dec 18, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future

As 2025 draws to a close, it’s a natural moment to pause, take stock, and look ahead at what the coming year may hold for the watch industry. In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and Lex for an in-depth conversation about the various factors and forces that are actively […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future to read the full article.

First Look – The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours Monochrome
Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off Dec 17, 2025

First Look – The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours

With companies like Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin, space tourism is no longer the stuff of sci-fi novels. While Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch has dominated the space story, others, like Fortis, have produced robust tool watches for astronauts, cosmonauts and “novonauts” alike. Boasting space-tested calibres, Fortis releases a fresh batch of four Stratoliner […]

The Watch Lord Nelson Left Behind SJX Watches
Hamilton their daughter Horatia Dec 17, 2025

The Watch Lord Nelson Left Behind

When Sotheby’s closed its Fine Watches online auction in London on December 17, the Victory Watch made by James McCabe and presented to Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson by the officers of HMS Victory sold for £152,400, fees included; below the low estimate. The price was unexpected for an object with an unusually intimate Nelson provenance: a gift from his officers that belongs to Nelson’s last weeks on land, before his victory and death at the Battle of Trafalgar, and to the choice he made to keep the watch at home. The Victory. Image – Sothebys (Turner, the battle of Trafalgar) Wikipedia Understanding the Victory The case bears the presentation inscription, “Pres. to Adml. Lord Nelson By the Officers of HMS Victory Aug 20 1805”. That date sits in the hinge of his final summer. Nelson had returned to England after a long, grinding command, and the country treated him as a national hero. He slipped away to Merton Place in Surrey to live, briefly, in the domestic scene he valued: a house shaped around his wife, Emma Hamilton, their daughter Horatia, and the familiar ritual of guests, dinners, and the small civilities of being ashore. The officers who commissioned the watch gave it to the man they knew at sea, and to the man they sensed existed elsewhere; the man who also wanted beauty, music, and calm within reach. Within a fortnight the strategic situation tightened. News that the French and Spanish fleets had combined at Cádiz brought recall. On September 14, 1805,...

James Lamb Introduces the Linea Editions, with Hand Engraved Titanium Dials and a New Argentium Silver Case Worn & Wound
Dec 17, 2025

James Lamb Introduces the Linea Editions, with Hand Engraved Titanium Dials and a New Argentium Silver Case

A few years ago (almost two years to the day, in fact) I picked up my James Lamb Origin Series. It’s a watch I had become kind of obsessed with in the months leading up to my purchase, and I’m happy to say that two years into ownership, long after the supposed honeymoon period would have been due to end, I’m still every bit as excited about it as I was on the day it arrived. There are a number of reasons for which we might connect to any particular watch: the aesthetics, the way it wears physically, the way it makes you feel when you wear it, and certainly the philosophy of the maker or brand behind it. I found the Origin Series watches to not only be incredibly beautiful, but the idea that these were handmade objects, pieced together in the traditional way by true artisans was something that always excited me.  Because of the handmade nature of Lamb’s work, that work is sometimes a little slow. He doesn’t participate in the traditional new watch release cycle that so much of the industry is beholden to. So I, along with many other admirers of his work, have been patiently waiting for whatever it is that would come next. Recently, we got our answer in the new Linea Edition. The Linea represents a fairly dramatic uptick in ambition for Lamb – this is not an iteration what we’ve already seen in the Origin Series, but something a little bit bolder. Still, it’s very recognizable as a “James Lamb” and adheres to the same underlying ideas that made those fir...

Introducing – The Fantastic Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos Returns as a Unique Piece Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos Returns as Dec 17, 2025

Introducing – The Fantastic Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos Returns as a Unique Piece

The Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos was first introduced in 2019, a show of technical ambition with a hint at philosophical intent. It was (and still is) an impressive watch that provided an emotional and physical connection between the celestial and the terrestrial worlds. Its construction centred on the brand´s signature tourbillon setup, with the addition of […]