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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds) Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features Jul 22, 2024

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds)

At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? Fratello
Tudor ? - Jul 18, 2024

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Jul 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial

Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Jun 26, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Sometimes the little moments inform our collecting more than the big ones. A big moment might be the first time Dad trusted you to wear his watch. While formative, there’d be a lot more two-tone bracelets on Instagram if those moments drove purchasing decisions. My “big moment” came on my seventh birthday. After weeks of begging for a digital watch, I opened a package to be greeted by black resin and the coolest digital screen I’d ever laid eyes on. The subsequent victory lap through the kitchen resulted in a trip to urgent care. Though I still have the scar to remember the watch that unleashed the horological nerd within me, my watchbox is currently void of a single digital watch. On the contrary, little moments are constantly influencing how I think about and consume watches. These are often as simple as offhand remarks I hear at a meetup or a comment I read on Reddit. One of these little moments came while I was listening to Rico’s Watches Podcast a couple years ago. A RedBar chapter head was the week’s guest, and he made some brief, unflattering remarks about Raymond Weil. Sharing a story of buyer’s remorse, he cited a lack of demand on the secondary market and a design language that was an amalgamation of other brands rather than something original. These quick quips stuck with me. As a newer collector, I’d already discerned that anything with “mall watch” vibes might not receive the nod of approval from my enthusiast peers. And, having personally ...

Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop? Fratello
Jun 18, 2024

Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop?

This week, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about collecting watches and whether we’ll ever stop. It’s a good question that we lightly debate because we feel similarly. The watch world is almost endless, providing us with nearly infinite opportunities to learn and enjoy. Our watch content starts 15 minutes into the show. Both […] Visit Fratello On Air: Collecting Watches - Will We Ever Stop? to read the full article.

Will The Future Rolex Manufacture Solve Your “Pepsi” Problems? Fratello
Rolex Manufacture Solve Your “Pepsi” Jun 12, 2024

Will The Future Rolex Manufacture Solve Your “Pepsi” Problems?

When we talk about Rolex, we talk about huge numbers. According to Bloomberg, last year, Rolex produced 1.24 million timepieces with sales of CHF 10.1 billion. That wasn’t enough to get people their desired “Pepsi” GMT-Master IIs, though. The future Rolex manufacture, about which the brand issued its first official press release, might change that. […] Visit Will The Future Rolex Manufacture Solve Your “Pepsi” Problems? to read the full article.

Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph Fratello
Raymond Weil Jun 10, 2024

Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph

The French word millésime comes from the world of wine, not watches. It denotes a “vintage,” a wine produced from a single year’s grape harvest, especially a great one. So, the Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph is a 2024 vintage from Geneva. Whether 2024 is going to be a fruitful watch year is yet to […] Visit Making This Monday Morning Count With The Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Jun 9, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 82: The Death of the Circular Watch Case (Well, Not Really)

In episode 82 of A Week in Watches, things turn to the unconventional. Well, unconventionally shaped, that is. Yes, this week features three new watches, each featuring sculptural cases that break the mold. First, we have Anoma making its debut. Then we have Holthinrichs, who have launched a new entry-level line. Lastly, Credor celebrates its 50th anniversary by bringing back a little-known watch by a well-known designer, Gerald Genta. This week’s episode is brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. New in the shop are everyday carry items by Gerber, including knives, multi-tools, and camping utensils. Check those out and their ever-growing catalog of new and interesting watches from brands like Fortis, Louis Erard, Nivada Grenchen, and more. Windup Watch Shop The post A Week in Watches Ep. 82: The Death of the Circular Watch Case (Well, Not Really) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime Fratello
Raymond Weil May 23, 2024

Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime

The Millesime collection by Raymond Weil took us by surprise when it launched last year. Once in a while, a watch comes along that just seems to work. The design and the execution just click. The Millesime is such a watch. So when Raymond Weil announced new models, I was keen to give them a […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime to read the full article.

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy Fratello
Apr 26, 2024

Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy

Let me make something crystal clear: I’m not a watch fundamentalist. I don’t live by the strict rule that you can only wear an X-type watch when you are doing an X-type of activity. If I did, I probably couldn’t wear any of the watches in my modest collection. Since I’m not flying a spacecraft, […] Visit Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy to read the full article.

Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Apr 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection

If you had told me a few weeks ago that one of the brands I’d feel best about coming out of Watches & Wonders 2024 would be Raymond Weil, I’d probably have been pretty confused, because at that point I don’t think I even had a meeting set up with the brand, and their attendance at the show was not even on my radar. But Watches & Wonders, as ever, has surprises in store for everyone. And sometimes you wind up taking an unexpected appointment with a brand you frankly don’t really know much about or have paid much attention to over the years, and it completely wins you over. Raymond Weil, dollar for dollar and watch for watch, had one of the most impressive showings at this year’s Watches & Wonders, and they took me completely off guard.  Worn & Wound has covered Raymond Weil sporadically over the course of our website’s existence. CEO Elie Bernheim came on the podcast in 2017, and there have been a handful of new releases written about and reviews filed, but for the most part Raymond Weil has simply not appeared in these pages. Why is that? Well, for much of the brand’s history, they just haven’t caught the eye of the enthusiast. Raymond Weil has always positioned itself as a mass market brand making affordable watches for everyday people, not collectors or connoisseurs, necessarily. There’s nothing at all wrong with that, of course, it was just never really our wheelhouse.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Zach Kazan (@zkazan) But the b...

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 5, 2024

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024

After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...

Isotope Brings Back the Popular “Will Return” Diver in a New Colorway Worn & Wound
Isotope Brings Back Mar 5, 2024

Isotope Brings Back the Popular “Will Return” Diver in a New Colorway

Inspiration can come from anywhere, and Isotope knows it. Since the brand’s founding in 2016, they have shown a knack for mining ideas from interesting places, and backing up their funky designs and color schemes with genuine technical prowess. Over the last eight years, they’ve made watches inspired by exit signs, NASA, British judges’ robes, and even the ridiculousness of gender-specific watches.  But probably their most successful design came with the 2021 release of the “Will Return” Hydrium X Diver, a vibrant dive watch with a lume dial inspired by the “Closed, Will Return” signs found in shop windows all over the world. Now, as the promise of the name would suggest, the Will Return has, well, returned, albeit with some slight differences, and accompanied by a ridiculously cool wall clock. The new “Will Return Red” plays off the format of the 2021 release but makes a few changes. The biggest and boldest is that the blue bezel has been swapped out for a bright red one. The hands have been updated slightly, forfeiting the white border. There’s no blue to be found on the watch head, but the black FKM tropic-style rubber strap from the original release has been swapped for a light blue strap of the same construction. Ignoring the new colorway, the Will Return Red is the same watch Isotope has been making for the last few years. That’s a good thing, because despite the colorful and fun look of the Isotope, at its core the Hydrium X Diver is a properl...

Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock Fratello
Isotope Launches Mar 3, 2024

Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock

In 2021, Isotope launched its successful Hydrium collection of dive watches with the limited HydriumX Will Return model. Based on the well-known shop door sign that indicates when the proprietor will return and the shop will reopen, the watch sold out quickly. The Hydrium case has since been the canvas for many interesting and attractive […] Visit Isotope Launches The HydriumX Will Return Red And Wall Return Clock to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love Fratello
Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic Feb 29, 2024

Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love

Unless you have lived under a rock for the past three years, you know that the watch market has seen a huge influx of affordable GMT watches from various brands. The newest addition to the long line of releases is this Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80. While it is not the first DS Action […] Visit Hands-On With The New Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80 - An Affordable GMT That Fans Will Love to read the full article.

So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby Fratello
Feb 13, 2024

So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby

Watches can get expensive - seriously expensive. There are no two ways about it. Luxury watch brands naturally aim their efforts at an affluent clientele. I have noticed, however, that most watch aficionados I meet have pretty regular jobs. And with pretty regular jobs come pretty regular incomes. So, if you are into watches but […] Visit So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby to read the full article.

Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection Deployant
Feb 11, 2024

Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection

We have often discussed about watches with an excellent value proposition. However, in today’s article, we are taking a step further. We are looking at well-priced timepieces that not only offer great value, but are able to fit seamlessly into any watch collection as well. While these criteria are subjective, we reckon we can takeRead More

Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself Fratello
Daniel Roth Feb 1, 2024

Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself

Daniel Roth is a name that carries weight in the world of Haute Horlogerie. When LVMH, the brand’s current owner, announced its revival back in 2023, it filled us with anticipation and trepidation. Could this work under the umbrella of a big luxury group? Will LMVH do the Daniel Roth name justice? Well, today, we […] Visit Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself to read the full article.

#TBT Finding A Gallet Multichron Clamshell While Buying A Classic Car Fratello
Jan 25, 2024

#TBT Finding A Gallet Multichron Clamshell While Buying A Classic Car

I am so excited that I don’t even know how to start. This particular version of the Gallet Multichron Clamshell was on my wishlist for years. When I think back on how it crossed my path, I find it so amusing, and I still can’t believe it. A few weeks ago, I mentioned that my […] Visit #TBT Finding A Gallet Multichron Clamshell While Buying A Classic Car to read the full article.