Hodinkee
Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch With Headphones
The Première Sound is a necklace-watch-headphones hybrid.
Results for El Primero
506 articles · 16 videos found · page 16 of 18
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Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A386 Revival Zenith
38 mm × 12.6 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. El Primero 400
Icon · Guide
El Primero Zenith
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Exclusive · Guide
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport: El Primero Without the Chronograph
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Alpina Launches the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton
For more than 140 years, Alpina has made a name for itself as a premier watch brand for sportsmen and adventurers alike. Now under the Citizen Watch family, the Swiss brand continues to bring to market exciting watches that often punch way above their weight class. Take, for example, the latest release by the brand: the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton. Coming in two references, depending on the strap chosen, these watches mark an interesting advent for the brand: marrying sports watch performance with a skeletonized dial in one. Every millimeter of this Alpiner iteration has been consciously redesigned for both aesthetics and performance. It’s hard to talk about this watch without mentioning the namesake skeleton architecture of the watch. Of course, the lack of a proper dial gives us a peek into the inner workings of the movement; it’s the small finishes throughout the watch that make it truly impressive. Take, for instance, the finishing on the movement that alternates between satin and polished surfaces. Or the hour markers applied by hand to the crystal, giving them a floating appearance against a dialless backdrop. Or the luminescent hands which tie it all together and remind one that this is, first and foremost, a sports watch. It’s all packed into a compact and wearable 39mm x 40.55 mm cushion case. Noted earlier, this watch comes in two references. The first (AL-520GSKT3AE6B) is a monochromatic gray variant that’s inspired by the Alpine foothills. This reference...
SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts First In-House Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breitling Unveils Its First Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Movement - In Not One, But Three Models
Breitling introduces its exclusive Caliber B19 in the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat to celebrate its 140th anniversary.
Fratello
Back To Basics: Watch Hands-The Most Underestimated Element In Watch Design?
Watch hands are not just literally at the core of any watch’s design. They are the functional heart of a watch, the final parts turning a complex mechanical chain into a time-telling device. As the primary point of focus when looking at a watch, they determine much of its looks. At the same time, they […] Visit Back To Basics: Watch Hands-The Most Underestimated Element In Watch Design? to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap
Some brands excel at collaborations, elevating everyday watches to grail status, no matter how primary their starting point is. Casio sets a great example with its G-Shock range and the inherently cool canvas of the OG “Square.” Its shape is packed with potential, and the new Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 shows a real sense of eco-purpose. […] Visit Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Gerd-Rüdiger Lang’s Fascination of Mechanics Continues
Elizabeth Doerr reports on the long history of the new brand LANG 1943 and its premier timepiece, Field Watch Edition One. This launch timepiece fulfilled every expectation and ticked every box that she hoped it would, thanks in big part to the influence of grandmaster Gerd-Rüdiger Lang.
Worn & Wound
Into the Elements: Hamilton and the Khaki Field Expedition
The Hamilton Watch Company stands as a venerable name in horology, renowned not only for its timepieces, but also for its deep-rooted connection to military history. Established in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton quickly made its mark by producing pocket watches that were instrumental in both civilian and military spaces. During World War I, Hamilton became a primary supplier of timepieces to the U.S. Armed Forces, earning accolades for their reliability and design. This role continued into World War II, when Hamilton halted their production for civilian use in order to focus on supplying Allied forces with standard issue wrist watches – watches that became indispensable to soldiers and aviators alike. The company’s commitment to military excellence culminated in the creation of the iconic Hamilton Khaki Field line, a collection that pays homage to its heritage while meeting the demands of modern adventurers in its specifications. Inspired by the rugged timepieces worn by military personnel, the Khaki Field collection blends classic military aesthetics with contemporary functionality. The Khaki Field Expedition launched last year, and their 41mm and 37mm options highlight the brand’s move into inclusive sizing options. These watches are characterized by their durable stainless steel cases, legible dials, and the notable bidirectional compass bezel which allows its users to find their bearings using the sun. Their accessible price point also lends them to be...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition
We kick off this Tuesday morning with the world premiere of the new Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition. It is the follow-up to last year’s inaugural redesigned One Week First Edition, which was nothing short of impressive. Both watches celebrate Armin Strom’s debut in-house caliber from 2010 in a sleek, modern way. The ever-impressive […] Visit Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Collection
While its primary focus has been the highly successful PRX collection for a couple of years, last year, Tissot decided to go back to basics by discreetly reinterpreting one of its classics, the Chemin des Tourelles collection. Subtly redesigned, upgraded mechanically with a Powermatic 80 movement and offering new and elegant dial designs, the revamped […]
Revolution
Raymond Weil at Watches & Wonders 2024: Exciting New Novelties
Join Wei and Elie Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil, as they go through their exciting new novelties for Watches & Wonders 2024.
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Review
Founded in 1994 in the wake of German reunification, but with roots tracing back all the way back to 1845, Glashütte Original has become firmly established as one of the world’s premier luxury watchmakers, one of the vanguard of firms that have put the little town of Glashütte, in the eastern state of Saxony, back on the map of world-class horological hubs after decades of postwar dormancy. In 2003, Glashütte Original introduced the first PanoMaticLunar, a handsome moon-phase timepiece that was notable for its delicately balanced array of indications, assembled on the principle of the Golden Ratio, and which today stands as one of the pillars of the diverse PanoMatic collection. In 2022, Glashütte Original released a crowd-pleasing version of the PanoMaticLunar in a striking, dark green dial and stainless steel case, which quickly and easily became the standout model in the Lunar family. I had the chance to get my hands on the watch recently for a full-on review, which follows below. The Case: The soft, round PanoMaticLunar case measures 40mm in diameter and a substantial but not unwieldy 12.7mm in thickness, Its thin sloping bezel has a gleaming, polished finish, while the case middle sports a hairline brushed pattern on its surfaces. The sharply curving lugs continue the theme, with a mirror polish on their top surfaces and vertical brushing on the sides and bottom. The caseback, attached by five sunken screws, has a slight convex curve that helps the watch...
Worn & Wound
Assouline Updates their Massive Rolex Coffee Table Book
Assouline is known as a brand that reflects the finer things in life. As a standard-bearer of fine art, culture, and lifestyle, Assouline has solidified its reputation as a premier publisher synonymous with sophistication. Wherever the haute monde is, Assouline is sure to follow with one of their well-designed, beautifully curated coffee table books. Their latest edition, Rolex: The Impossible Collection, 2nd Edition is an especially exciting release for the horologically-inclined, focusing on the one-hundred watches that define the brand’s legacy and rich history. Within the pages of The Impossible Collection, readers will get a chance to explore the various ways in which Rolex has entered the cultural consciousness. From the first wristwatch dating to the early 1900s and the first Oyster Perpetual from 1931, to an Explorer worn during Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 and the Submariner worn by actor George Lazenby in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, this book acts as a reflection of a brand which has stood at the cross-section of adventure, style, and sportsmanship. For the casual collector to the fanatics among us, Assouline’s attention to detail and design in The Impossible Collection will inspire readers while making a handsome companion for your library. Every page is carefully designed to elevate the reading experience, while leaving the page clean and uncluttered, so every watch has room to shine. Ro...
Fratello
The New 34mm Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out In A Flash - Here’s What You Need To Know
Hajime Asaoka’s signature style is early mid-century with a touch of Art Deco, and he chose the studied charm of a 34mm case for his premier (and accessible) release of 2024. We first saw this size from Kurono Tokyo in 2022 with four fresh two-tone releases. Now, by introducing the Calligra, Hajime Asaoka has committed. […] Visit The New 34mm Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out In A Flash - Here’s What You Need To Know to read the full article.
Fratello
Vintage Watches In 2024 - A Return To Our Roots
Much to my amazement, 2024 marks my 10th year of writing for Fratello. Wow, how time has flown by! During this time, I’ve covered all sorts of topics, but my primary focus has always been on vintage watches. I have an undying love for older timepieces, and I’m thankful that Robert-Jan allowed me to kick […] Visit Vintage Watches In 2024 - A Return To Our Roots to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The New G-Shock Square MRG-B5000R-1
Casio introduces new G-Shock “Squares” all the time, but a new Square in the premier league, like an MR-G, is something else. Before you get too excited, I must clarify that the MRG-B5000R-1 isn’t an entirely new watch. However, it is an important successor to the two MR-G Squares presented two years ago. In any […] Visit Hands-On: The New G-Shock Square MRG-B5000R-1 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s Sports Watch Gets a Fired Enamel Dial
Alongside its compatriots MB&F; and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor. The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case. Initial thoughts While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions. The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial. Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements. Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value pr...
SJX Watches
Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40
British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...
Revolution
Unveiling the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 MIL-SPEC | Revo Talks
Wei introduces the third act by Blancpain, commemorating the 70th anniversary of its iconic Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch with the “Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3” model. This edition draws inspiration from the MIL-SPEC model adopted by the primary armed forces of its era. The inception of the Fifty Fathoms is a tale of fortunate […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide
A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023”
The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre. Initial thoughts While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice. Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly. The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light set...
Worn & Wound
Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup
The latest release from Norqain capitalizes on a recent color trend while steering the brand back from the tech forward, ultra sporty Wild One that has been the brand’s primary focus since late last year. The Freedom 60 Chrono Ice Blue Limited Edition, in a 40mm case size, sits on the opposite end of the spectrum of Norqain’s increasingly varied catalog, which now includes watches made with unusual proprietary materials and an increasing stock of limited editions. The Freedom 60 Chrono takes a more vintage inspired approach, but this version has been given a super sleek colorway that is quite contemporary. The Freedom 60 Chrono seen here has an ice blue dial with a subtle sunray effect, and is dotted with three black subdials providing readouts for elapsed minutes, hours, and running seconds. The dial has a two layer construction with the subdials sitting below the main dial for added depth, and a matching black outer ring with a white tachymeter scale for contrast. The hour markers are diamond cut and rhodium plated, and have small old radium colored lume tips at their inside edge. The date window at 4:30 is color matched to the ice blue dial, and in these photographs appears to be very well executed, proving that it is, in fact, possible to deliver a three register layout and 4:30 date window without completely fumbling the bag. The secret weapon here is really the case. The 40mm incarnation of the Freedom 60 case is dramatically more wearable and in proportion t...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph
At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...
Worn & Wound
Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere”
Boston-based streetwear giant, Bodega, is known for being one of the premier retailers and collaborators in the world of sneakers and fashion since 2006. On February 17th, the brand is releasing their latest collab, and this time it’s one you can wear on your wrist. G-Shock has been in the watch world for a staggering 40 years, and they’ve come up with a heck of a release to celebrate. Based on the original G-Shock, the familiar square DW-5600, this new collar has some added flair that makes it truly something special. Building upon the theme of “Anytime and Anywhere”, the watch draws inspiration from the global reach that both brands have. The ability to throw on a G-Shock and have it work anytime and anywhere rings true to the theme. Instead of the standard matte black resin, the case and bracelet are crafted from a smoke gray translucent resin that adds some depth to the design. They’ve also incorporated a steel bumper bar to add an extra rugged touch. Co-branding on the dial is complete with gold and red accents that really pop off the rest of the gray watch. One of the coolest parts of this collaboration is the old school globe design that’s rendered in red on a green background when the backlight is activated. Flip the watch over and the globe motif is repeated on the engraved case back. This watch comes with the classic resin band and a unique additional strap with a built-in carabiner. Make use of the included tool and extra set of endlinks, and you can...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bell & Ross Made A Watch With Alain Silberstein, Master Of The Squiggle
These three watches are a 42mm primary color themed party for your wrist.
Time+Tide
One to watch: “Making Time” documentary now available to stream in time for the holiday break
Ever since I saw a 30-minute teaser for this film during Dubai Watch Week last year, I have been itching for the premiere of the full feature. Making Time, executive produced by Ian Skelleren (co-founder of Quill & Pad) and Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi (Director General of Dubai Watch Week), not only delivers a documentary that … ContinuedThe post One to watch: “Making Time” documentary now available to stream in time for the holiday break appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, Co-owner and CEO of Château Angelus
In Saint-Émilion, part of the winemaking region of Bordeaux, France, stands Château Angelus, a vineyard that has remained in ownership of the Boüard de Laforest family for almost two and half centuries. The château is a mecca for wine lovers the world over and vintages from this Premier Grand Cru Classe A estate are renowned […]
Revolution
Talking with Bertrand Savary about the Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’
On a recent trip to Château Angelus, a Premier Grand Cru Classe A vineyard in Saint-Émilion, France, Wei met with Bertrand Savary, CEO of Angelus to talk about our first collaboration with the brand. The scenic vistas surrounding the château were the perfect location to first discover our salmon dial Chronodate, which is aptly named […]
Time+Tide
VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision
It’s well-known that between 1975 and 1985, the Swiss watch industry collapsed and its chances of survival looked slim. Many manufacturers went bust or were forced to join larger conglomerates. The primary cause of the disruption was, of course, the innovation of electronic quartz movements. On Christmas day, 1969, Seiko released the Astron, the first-ever … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.