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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

First Look - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince, Now in White Ceramic Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 17, 2026

First Look - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince, Now in White Ceramic

The Le Petit Prince editions have long been easy to spot within IWC’s Pilot’s Watch lineup; just look for the deep blue dial inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s famous novella. With the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the brand gives this familiar formula a new […]

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch May 12, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Time+Tide
Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Aug 24, 2022

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming?

The biggest buzzword in the watch world these days is “hype” – and nobody does hype better than New York-based streetwear brand Supreme. While their signature colour is red, everything they touch seems to turn to gold. While their own goods are immensely popular around the world, Supreme has engaged in all sorts of collaborations … ContinuedThe post Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch One Sep 6, 2021

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch

One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season Time+Tide
Ming days I mentioned Jan 2, 2020

Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season

Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” Sep 16, 2019

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Aug 5, 2019

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore

In its fifth iteration, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition will be hosted in Singapore for the first time. Placed to emphasise the importance of Southeast Asian clients and collectors for Patek Philippe, the show will offer public insight to a number of the artefacts that typically remain in Geneva at the Patek Philippe … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The big bad Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Days 3D Carbon Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Days Apr 13, 2018

INTRODUCING: The big bad Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Days 3D Carbon

Given how much Hublot unveiled in Geneva back in January, the volume of additional novelties the brand had ready to go for Baselworld 2018 came as a bit of a surprise. Though nearly faced with a little analysis paralysis, given the broad range of models to choose from, getting a closer look at the Big … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The big bad Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Days 3D Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Suit ready - the Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio - 45mm  Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Feb 7, 2018

HANDS-ON: Suit ready - the Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio - 45mm 

When it came to Panerai’s latest collection, we’ve already covered off how the Luminor Due was the surprise star. And while it’s fair to say the smaller models accounted for a disproportionate amount of the noise, there was strong representation at the larger end of the scales. In particular this watch, PAM 00944, a full-cream … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Suit ready – the Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio – 45mm  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin’s surprise sailing watch - the Marine Regatta Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin s surprise sailing watch May 17, 2017

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin’s surprise sailing watch - the Marine Regatta

Ulysse Nardin made their name way back in 1846 making marine chronometres – highly accurate ship’s clocks that were an essential navigational tool in the times before radio and GPS. These days the Le Locle-based brand still makes chronometre-style timepeices, but as a celebration of heritage rather than a practical tool. This isn’t to say that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin’s surprise sailing watch – the Marine Regatta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review of Franck Muller 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton with Specs and Price Deployant
Franck Muller 7 Days Power Reserve Jan 3, 2015

Review of Franck Muller 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton with Specs and Price

Truth to be told, it has been quite some time since we were intrigued by a Franck Muller watch. In the recent history, Franck Muller seemed to have diverted from their ethos and created humdrum pieces like the Conquistador GPG and the Infinity Ronde. The 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton, however, is a little outstanding though.  Franck MullerRead More

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap WatchRider
Casio F-91WF Watch Aug 7, 2026

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap

The Casio F-91W does not need a complicated introduction. It is one of the simplest digital watches you can buy and one of the easiest to recognise. The new F-91WF collection keeps that familiar formula but changes the part that has the greatest effect on comfort and character: the strap. Instead of the usual resin band, each watch comes with a lightweight cloth strap made from recycled PET. There are three models in the collection. The F-91WF-1A is black, the F-91WF-2A is navy blue and the F-91WF-3A is olive green. The case colour is matched to the strap on each version, so none of them looks like an ordinary F-91W with a random replacement strap. They feel like a complete collection with three clear personalities. Why the F-91WF is more than a strap change The cloth strap is the main news but it is not only a visual detail. Casio describes it as lightweight, comfortable, resistant to scratches and resistant to stains. It should also feel less rigid than a resin strap, especially during hot weather or when the watch is worn for a full day. Its recycled PET material gives the range a practical environmental benefit without changing the affordable and uncomplicated nature of the F-91W. The strap fits wrists from 145 to 215mm. That broad range matters because the case itself is very compact. It measures 38.2mm from top to bottom, 35.2mm across and only 8.5mm thick. Each version weighs just 21 grams. On the wrist it should almost disappear, which remains one of the strongest ...

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Another Historic Watch Brand! It’s Gallet! Fratello
Breitling Acquires Another Historic Watch Mar 17, 2025

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Another Historic Watch Brand! It’s Gallet!

Following Breitling’s acquisition of the renowned Universal Genève brand, the Grenchen-based watchmaker has done it again with another iconic name in chronographs - Gallet. With Gallet, Breitling, and Universal Genève, the group will cover a wide range, from entry-level luxury to the high-end segment and everything in between. Gallet’s heritage In a separate article, Fratello […] Visit Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Another Historic Watch Brand! It’s Gallet! to read the full article.

The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers Fratello
Certina Watch Issued Jan 24, 2024

The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers

Recently, Certina provided me the opportunity to get my hands on a revived classic, the DS Super PH1000M. I love Certina, and I believe it’s a brand that does not get the kudos it deserves. This article is about the watch from which this new release took its design cues, and it has an incredible […] Visit The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers to read the full article.

Auction Watch: A Unique Habring² Split-Seconds for a Good Cause SJX Watches
Ming Geneva auction Apr 20, 2023

Auction Watch: A Unique Habring² Split-Seconds for a Good Cause

Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer - Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer - Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021: Historically Inspired With Vintage Appeal Quill & Pad
Breguet Type XX Only Watch Aug 15, 2021

Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021: Historically Inspired With Vintage Appeal

Breguet has a stronger legacy than nearly any other brand and is strongest in Joshua Munchow's opinion when it drifts more toward heritage than trends. A great example of this is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021, a historically inspired version that does away with the aspects Joshua isn't a fan of in the current Type XX/XXI collection. And its auction price will be fully donated for a great cause.

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial SJX Watches
Sinn s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Mar 5, 2021

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial

Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...