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Quill & Pad
The new Eccentricity Réserve de Marche is Cyril Brivet-Naudot's second watch following his 2018 debut piece, the simply named Eccentricity. It builds on that foundation by adding complexity with the addition of a power reserve mechanism taking up real estate on both the front and rear of the watch. And it is simply, and traditionally, stunning as Joshua Munchow reports.
SJX Watches
Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...
Deployant
The watch is priced at CHF8,900 compared to the 46mm at CHF13,900. It has a base movement versus the 52110 Calibre which has an additional 100 hours in power reserve. The watch is positioned as a more wearable option to the larger Big Pilot that also comes with a more affordable price tag.
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One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics. Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...
SJX Watches
Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...
SJX Watches
One of the five makers of the beobachtungsuhr, or B-uhr, supplied to the German Luftwaffe during the second world war, IWC is perhaps best known for its pilot’s watches. And the quintessential modern-day IWC pilot’s watch is arguably the Big Pilot’s Watch, which is modelled on the oversized B-uhr (which translates “navigation watch”). Watches and Wonders 2021 sees a litany of new Pilot’s Watches from IWC, including the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, a more wearable, 43 mm version of its extra-large aviator’s watch that was historically 46.2 mm. The reduction in size is made possible due to the cal. 82100, instead of the seven-day cal. 52110 found in its larger brother. Available with black or blue dials, along with the option of a bracelet, the new Big Pilot sticks to traditional dial colours, with no green on offer, despite the faddish colour being found on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 that’s being launched at the same time. The Big Pilot Watch 43 in blue Initial thoughts A theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders seems to be downsizing – brands from Rolex to Panerai seem to be responding to rising demand for smaller cases. By shrinking the Big Pilot from 46 mm to 43 mm, IWC caters to those who still want a biggish pilot’s watch, but one that will be easier to wear. Aside from the reduced size, the new Big Pilot 43 has been pared back in terms of design (which is also a consequence of the new movement). Gone are the date and power reserve display ind...
SJX Watches
Having made a name for itself in the early 20th century for its marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin revisits its roots with the UFO, an intriguing table clock conceived to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. Described as a “swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves”, the UFO is as an avant-garde reinterpretation of the marine chronometer. It’s essentially a round-bottomed doll that will wobble and sway but never topple over, except it contains an impressive mechanical movement with a 365-day power reserve. Traditionally known for largely classical designs with the occasional twist, such as the Marine Torpilleur, Ulysse Nardin has been gravitating towards more boldly modern designs in recent years, exemplified by the Blast Tourbillon and the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. That experimental approach is now applied to the table clock in a collaboration with clock specialist L’Epée 1839, the supplier of choice for many watchmakers looking to get into exotic clocks. Initial thoughts Inspired by the oceans, the UFO sways when nudged, but remains upright thanks to a weighted base, creating an engaging display of timekeeping. And the UFO is practical as well, featuring three clock faces that can be set to different time zones, or to mirror each other. Granted, the UFO will have a very niche appeal, considering it’s a table clock with a complex design matched by a high price tag. Costing a whopping US$41,100, the UFO is almost double the price of L’Epé...
SJX Watches
A watchmaker with many excellent movements – and some exceptional calibres – Chopard is instead better known for its jewellery watches or auto-racing chronographs. Now Chopard keeps at its, and has just added to its list of excellent movements with the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Conceived to mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C line – made up of the brand’s high horology offerings and named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Quattro Spirit is its first jump hour. Dressed up with a fired enamel dial, it is powered by an impressive and refined eight-day movement. Initial thoughts An instinctively appealing watch, the Quattro Spirit is good looking and size well; most notably, the movement is interesting. While jumping hours isn’t particularly complicated, the leap of the digital display on a mechanical watch is still an intriguing sight. Add to that four barrels that supply a run time of eight days, the cal. L.U.C 98.06-L becomes even more compelling. Assembling one stack of twin barrels Notably, even with the long power reserve, the watch remains relatively compact, just 40 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall. That’s thanks to a clever optimisation of space, with the movement relying on twin stacked barrels, with each stack containing two mainsprings connected in series. Priced at a bit under US$45,000, the Quattro Spirit costs substantially more than other L.U.C watches with the same eight-day base movement without the jumping hours. In fact, the addition of the jump ...
SJX Watches
Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...
SJX Watches
Though MB&F; was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM). It’s hard to believe, but the LM collection is a decade old now (and MB&F; itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F; has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series. Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon. The LMX in pink gold Initial thoughts Compared to the original LM1, the LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milest...
SJX Watches
Named after the planar, angular case, the Sharp Edged series is one of the most striking lines in the affordable Presage collection. The latest addition to the range is the Presage Sharp Edged GMT, the first models that go beyond time-only. With a larger case and new movement, the new GMT references – SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, and SPB225 – retain the asanoha dial pattern and case design of current models, while incorporating a second time zone function and power reserve indicator. Initial thoughts It’s pretty clear that the Sharp Edges models were conceive to offer some of the Grand Seiko, but in a less elaborate watch at a more accessible price. So it’s not surprising the new Sharp Edged GMT watches resemble the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT released last year. The dial layout is similar, as is the styling of the angular, faceted case. In many ways, the Sharp Edged GMT is the smaller brother of its Grand Seiko counterpart and one sharp-looking watch – no pun intended. Importantly, the Sharp Edged GMT is identical to the Grand Seiko GMT in terms of function. It is a true GMT watch – the second time zone hand can be set independently whilst the seconds hand is running. Majority of GMT watches in its price range are conventional movement with an added 24-hour hand, which makes setting the two time zones more tedious. Ultimately, the main attraction of the Sharp Edged GMT is its affordability. With a retail of US$1,380, the watch doesn’t have much competition ...
SJX Watches
Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist. Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...
SJX Watches
The largest watch retailer in the Middle East, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. A family-owned business since its founding, Seddiqi is marking the occasion with several limited-edition watches, including the Bovet 19Thirty Dimier UAE Edition. Based on the 19Thirty Dimier, a time-only wristwatch with a long, seven-day power reserve, the UAE Edition is dressed in a striking combination of black and yellow, with its most distinctive feature being an unusual take on the “California” dial. Instead of the usual Roman and Arabic numeral combination, its dial combines Hindu and Arabic numerals, in a nod to the culture of the region. Initial thoughts Typically a classical-looking watch, the 19Thirty Dimier is very different in the UAE Edition. Recalling racing chronographs, the yellow and black livery is sporty, which works well with the simplified dial that removes some of the elements found on the standard version. The simpler dial design is appealing, although the white print on the base plate feels out of place against all that yellow; a consistent black-and-yellow theme throughout would have been a bit more pleasing. Despite the bright colours, the 19Thirty Dimier is an elegantly-proportioned watch, with a fairly large case but one under 10 mm high. And it is powered by an in-house movement, which like all of Bovet’s movements, is well executed and technically interesting. The cal. 15BM04 inside is simple in function – it has only t...
SJX Watches
Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...
SJX Watches
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...
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A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies category for watches entered as “comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.” While our panelists aren't quite unanimous, we do have a clear favorite as a winner here. Read on to find out why.
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Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...
Time+Tide
A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A pioneer in the hydro-mechanical display of time – where time is indicated by liquid in tubes – HYT has furthered its novel time display by lighting up the liquid display. Not merely with luminescent paint as is convention, but with dynamo-powered LEDs. First installed in the H4 of 2016, the illuminated-liquid display now returns with the sleek HYT Flow. Contained in a rounded, almost organic case with sweeping lines on the dial, the Flow features an LED at six o’clock. It launches with two versions: the simpler one having a a light ring around the aperture at six, and the other – which is more lavish and interesting – is equipped with lights underneath a dome set with baguette diamonds. Initial thoughts While LED lighting is not new, it remains the highlight. It is definitely not something conceived for functionality and legibility in the dark, but instead as a complication with brilliant visual appeal. The diamond-set variant, in particular, offers a stunning light show thanks to the highly refractive and reflective nature of the gemstone – albeit at a steep price of well over US$160,000. Functionally the Flow remains similar to its predecessors, but the entirety of the design has streamlined compared to the angular styling of the brand’s earliest watches. The case is rounded, with lines that flow, which is complement by the open-worked wave pattern on the dial. Crucial elements like the minute hand and power reserve indicator are on the dial, while the t...
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Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...
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Typically offered with a familiar guilloche dial, Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch has been facelifted with a polished, mineral stone dial. Equipped with glossy, black onyx dial featuring pink-gold hour markers, the Laureato Infinity Edition is a limited edition in two case sizes for men and women respectively. Initial thoughts The luxury-sports watch category is populated by many similar watches, driven by the popularity of the Gerald Genta-designed segment leaders, which are arguably the definitive sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials. Few watches manage to differentiate themselves; even the standard Laureato blends in. The Laureato Infinity Edition manages to be different without trying too hard, while also being priced reasonably. The combination isn’t imaginative but it works well. The dial is a glossy black, matched with contrasting hour markers in pink gold, and markings in powdered-silver print – a combination that is clean, classic, but also different from its peers. The only odd element of the design are the rhodium-plated hands, which are probably highly legible, but don’t match the colour of the hour markers. Arguably the only weakness are the in-house movements. Both are robust, reliable calibres that have been around for decades, but they lack many of the upgrades found in newer movements, most notably a longer power reserve. The standard Laureato is already a well priced watch. The Infinity Edition sticks to that formula ...
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In 1816, Louis Moinet accomplished a first in watchmaking: a timepiece that could precisely track elapsed time. Measuring periodicity on demand had been accomplished before, but the French watchmaker’s invention gave it the functionality and exactness that we expect today. In assessing prototypes, we often tend to forgive their shortcomings and rosily reminisce, rewriting flaws as charms. Moinet’s timepiece, however, was a prescient opus. The layout of the dial had the now-familiar large central hand and elapsed time in subdials. Two pushers controlled the start, stop and reset functions, the power reserve lasted over 30 hours, and the mainspring could be wound while the timing mechanism was engaged to allow for longer timing runs. Most impressive, though, was its precision. Louis Moinet’s compteur de tierces of 1816. Image – Louis Moinet Named the compteur de tierces, or “timer of thirds”, Moinet’s invention ran at 216,000 beats per hour, measuring time down to one-sixtieth of a second. To allow for this ambitious exactitude to be utilised, the central chronograph hand completed revolutions once per second – such that the user could easily see which sixtieth of a second the period in question ended on - and the watch had an extra sub-dial for tracking elapsed seconds in addition to those for the minutes and hours. Whys and wherefores An impressive story, except that it’s missing something. Why did Moinet build it? And what did he use it to measure? A...
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Launched at Baselworld last year, the Seiko Prospex LX is a series of solidly-engineered sports watches conceived for air, land and sea – and designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, once the Creative Director at Pininfarina and one of Japan’s most prolific car designers. Powered by Seiko’s trademark Spring Drive movement, the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 retains the familiar design modelled on the Seiko 1968 Hi-beat Diver, but now dressed in green. The textured dial is inspired by an underwater forest of moss pillars – nicknamed “kokebozu”, or “moss child”, by Japanese scientists – located at the bottom of a lake in Antarctica’s Skarvsnes Foreland. The “kokebozu” moss pillars in Antarctica Initial thoughts With both its dial and glossy ceramic bezel in forest green, the watch is immediately striking – and reminiscent of well-known, hulking green dive watch. The all-green dive watch is fashionable now, and Seiko is one amongst a host of brands doing it, so the colour is not unique. But Seiko executes its watches well – quality is excellent inside and out – and excels in highly-functional dive watches that perform well in legibility and usability. That sets this apart from the competition. As a sucker for textured dials, the ribbed dial pattern – meant to evoke the aquatic moss pillars – is highly appealing. It adds depth and character to what is otherwise a no-nonsense “tool” watch. I am not a fan of the power reserve in...
Quill & Pad
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: the story continues. Indications include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, moon phase, and a world time/second time zone display. All of which is powered by an entirely new double-sided flying tourbillon movement with totally new architecture. Warning: it may blow your mind!
SJX Watches
One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...
SJX Watches
While Corum’s high-end watchmaking is typically associated with the tiny Golden Bridge movement, the brand’s latest creation is a surprisingly intriguing calibre with a novel construction. The Lab 02 is a tourbillon with vertical power reserve and double-disc date – entirely constructed as a “flying”, or “floating”, movement. Almost all of the wheels are secured only on one side, leaving them seemingly suspended in midair. Initial thoughts The Lab 02 has a genuinely interesting movement inside. A “flying” construction is not new, but it is usually applied to a key parts, like the barrel or tourbillon, for aesthetic effect or to keep the movement as slim as possible. Here the whole movement is flying, which results in a strikingly airy mechanical landscape. In fact, the Lab 02 is essentially a more complex execution of the concept behind the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Because of its construction, the movement is large, which means the watch is huge – 45 mm wide and 13.4 mm high. But it is a necessity due to the mechanics and probably enhances the visual effect of the movement construction. Harder to swallow is the price of 180,00 Swiss francs that puts the Lab 02 in a price segment where many well-established haute horlogerie brands compete. That’s especially so given the movement finishing appears adequate (neat and clean but mostly done with mechanical means) rather than excellent. Admittedly, most other watches in the price segme...
Time+Tide
The IWC Big Pilot collection is a pillar of the brand for a reason. The design is iconic and has remained unchanged for the best part of a century, the wrist presence is almost unparalleled, and the double-barrelled power reserve means you can take it off for a week without needing to reset the time. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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