Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: The Hidden Horological History Of The Times Square Ball Drop
Happy New Year's Eve! Our final story of 2022 is all about what happens when the clock strikes midnight.
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365: Celebrating 220 Years Since The Invention Of The Tourbillon With Easter Eggs – Reprise
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 marks the 220th anniversary of the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and it approaches the milestone with restraint and an 'Easter egg' nod to those in the know.
Quill & Pad
The Future Of Watchmaking Is Young, Audacious, And Independent! Watches TV Dinner With Young Independent Watchmakers
Santa came early for Ian this year with this fun casual dinner that Watches TV founder Marc André Deschoux hosted for young independent watchmakers. It was one of the most pleasurable short clips he's seen all year: you feel you are at the table with them and can smell the raclette.
Time+Tide
Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world
Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: And our favourite T+T moment of the year was…
This past year was full of excitement. It was the year of the MoonSwatch, About Effing Time seasons one and two, and oh so much more. I could assemble a top 10 list of highlights from the past year, but one moment reigns supreme for all of us here at Time+Tide. With the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: And our favourite T+T moment of the year was… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
The hi-beat goes on with the return of the Longines Ultra-Chron
Revolution
In Conversation With Jean-Claude Biver and His Son, Pierre on the Imminent Launch of JC Biver
Revolution Asia’s Editor-in-Chief, Andre Frois sat down with watch industry legend, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, to talk about the news everyone is waiting for, the launch of the first collection of their new brand, JC Biver. Details remain scant but we learnt some new facts about the upcoming watches. The dynamic father and […]
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Definitive Story Of MoonSwatch
We look back at the launch – and forward to the future – of the biggest watch release in decades.
Deployant
New: Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rabbit
Continuing in the tradition of releasing a new L.U.C Urushi dial, Chopard releases this next iteration to celebrate the Chinese New Year of the Rabbit.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing
Ball may not be the most recognisable name in Swiss watchmaking, but their heritage goes all the way back to 1891, and the heyday of railroad timers. In fact, due to an Ohio railroad collision (the Great Kipton Train Wreck), founder Webb C. Ball, a well-known jeweler, instituted a railroad timekeeping standard to prevent future … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity
With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia. Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon. I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina. Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success? Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in. The old school method o...
Video
Smartwatch of the 60's: Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea diver - LONGEST named watch EVER!!!
Quill & Pad
Top 10 Most Popular Articles Of 2022 On Quill & Pad As Read by You: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, (Relatively) Affordable Watches, And More!
As read by you, here are the top ten most viewed articles (plus a bonus one) on Quill & Pad this past year. There are a few favorites and a few surprises. Drum roll, please: in no particular order, our top ten most viewed articles of 2022 were . . .
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Value Propositions
We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches. While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Compelling Complications
Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: I Work With Fire. But My Watch Is Made For Water.
How a life of adventure made me look to the funky past via a vintage Aquadive Time-Depth Electronic.
Quill & Pad
Jérôme De Witt And Napoleon’s (Jump) Hour Of Triumph: 2015 Academia Mathematical
The De Witt Academia Mathematical of 2015 has a digital time display with jumping hours, tens of minutes, and minutes. And although its full numeral carousels are just barely visible under a smoked sapphire crystal dial, Tim Mosso was willing and able to take a closer look.
Video
Rolex Is Taking Advantage of You.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster 321 is the grail-Speedy of the modern catalogue
Omega’s main point of distinction in the modern era is their METAS-certified Master Chronometer co-axial movements. They have superb build qualities inside and out, and are wonderfully decorated – albeit industrially. But, the Omega Speedmaster 321 was an incredibly well-received novelty upon its debut in 2020 thanks to its heritage qualities rather than a future-forward … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster 321 is the grail-Speedy of the modern catalogue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Commemorating A Centenary Of The Discovery Of King Tutankhamun’s Tomb In Pens From Montegrappa And Visconti
The year 2022 marks the centenary of the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb. Here Nancy Olson highlights regal new limited edition pens from Montegrappa and Visconti that commemorate the 100-year-old discovery.
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites
Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....
SJX Watches
Best of 2022: Independent Watchmaking
Twenty twenty-two will undoubtedly be the best year on record for the luxury-watch industry. Swiss watch exports recorded their highest ever monthly value in November 2022 and the total for the year will top CHF24 billion, another all-time record. Despite the stellar year – or perhaps because of it – the “novelties” for 2022 are fairly muted. Lots of nice watches made their debut during the year, but the truly outstanding and significant launches were sparse. That could be for a few reasons, including supply chain disruptions due to the pandemic or that brands simply didn’t need to try too hard since sales were easy. During Watches & Wonders, a chief executive of a high-end independent brand conceded that it was better to conserve ammunition for the inevitable slowdown. Watches & Wonders 2022, where sales were easy to come by. Image – Watches & Wonders Even if the genuinely notable were few, the volume of new releases was consistently high throughout the year. And it wasn’t just new models from existing brands, but also new faces, especially in the independent watchmaking space. There was plenty to keep watch aficionados occupied throughout the year. Still, the year’s top watches are pretty obvious. The very best will be remembered a decade from now as a significant or important watch. Other picks simply have soul and authenticity. With that in mind, our team compiled the year’s best in each of the major categories, ranging from establishment favourit...
Quill & Pad
Wine Of The Year 2022 As Tasted By Ken Gargett
Ken Gargett recently caught up with Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago at the Penfolds Melbourne Recorking Clinic. And he had the opportunity to taste a few very special wines, one of which is his 2022 wine of the year – though that may change as the year isn't quite over.
Video
Revelot Hexmariner - BEST LOOKING microbrand diver of the year!!
Revolution
Wei Gets a Tattoo and Talks Watches with Bradley Tan, Founder of Oracle Tattoo
Bradley Tan may only be 34 years old but he has been a tattoo artist for more than half his life. Dedicating almost two decades to his craft has resulted in him being regarded as one of the best in the world, of the black and gray photorealistic style. He is also a passionate watch […]
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Kari Voutilainen
At Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei speaks one-on-one with Kari Voutilainen, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium, and one of the most well-respected pioneers of independent watchmaking. 2022 marks the 20th anniversary since Kari founded his eponymous brand; a journey marked by both tragedy and triumph. Inspired by mentors during his […]
Quill & Pad
Training The Next Generation Of A. Lange & Söhne Watchmakers: 25 Years And Counting
Not long after Walter Lange reestablished his forefathers’ company A. Lange & Söhne, once Germany’s most famous watch manufacture, he recognized that training the next generation of watchmakers would be crucial for both the long-term prosperity of his company and the local watchmaking industry and population. Sabine Zwettler takes a look at how that training has evolved.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing
With some of the more out-there design choices of the late ’90s and early ’00s coming back into fashion, it takes an extremely keen eye to come out with a range which matches that energy without looking too dated or clunky. The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph and Powermatic 80 are watches that capture the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model
You’re probably familiar with the concept of “dog years”. This is the idea that dogs age at approximately seven times the rate of humans and so we should consider their relative ages in this way. Whereas a seven-year-boy might still be fascinated by cartoons, whoopee cushions and nerf guns, a dog that is seven (in … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour book is like an in-depth biography of the brand’s favourite model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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