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Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities

One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way.  At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques.  The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02.  According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 Fratello
Oak & Oscar Jan 27, 2026

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02

It’s been nearly a year since we’ve heard from Chase Fancher and the team at Oak & Oscar. Here we are, though, in late January with an exciting, albeit highly limited, new release. Hopefully, the Humboldt ExP-02 foreshadows an increased level of in-house production capability. For now, let’s take a look at the watch! I […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher Fratello
Jan 27, 2026

Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher

We have come to know CIGA Design for its original takes on classic watches. In particular, the Blue Planet series has received much praise from critics and fans alike. Late last year, the brand treated us to its Everest Summit Central Tourbillon, the second iteration of CIGA Design’s most ambitious release to date. For this […] Visit Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.

Announcing – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5, Launching 29 January 2026 Monochrome
Czapek […] Jan 27, 2026

Announcing – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5, Launching 29 January 2026

Following the recent and successful release of our fourth Montre de Souscription, we’re thrilled to announce the launch of our next Montre de Souscription. Following the release of the Montre de Souscription 1, a salmon-toned, sector dial chronograph based on the Habring² Chrono-Felix, the Montre de Souscription 2, a MONOCHROME white interpretation of the Czapek […]

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates The Arc - A New Site In Le Brassus Bringing Different Watchmaking Crafts Under One Roof Fratello
Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Jan 27, 2026

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates The Arc - A New Site In Le Brassus Bringing Different Watchmaking Crafts Under One Roof

Although its 150th anniversary technically ended in 2025, Audemars Piguet inaugurates the Arc manufacture to celebrate the brand’s one-and-a-half-century existence. This 23,700m² facility brings local production teams together under one roof, and it is a clear indication that AP is proud to be from the Vallée de Joux and wants the region to thrive and […] Visit Audemars Piguet Inaugurates The Arc - A New Site In Le Brassus Bringing Different Watchmaking Crafts Under One Roof to read the full article.

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve Worn & Wound
Tissot as Jan 26, 2026

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve

There’s a “don’t change it if it ain’t broke” mentality in Swiss watchmaking. Progress is slow, and it often seems that there’s a general distrust of change. An example of this is in the mechanical movements that power most of our watches. Chances are, you have at least one watch with an ETA 2824 or a movement based on the 2824 in your collection. If you’re like me, you have several. For Swiss-made watches of a certain price point, they are the standard. They are “workhorses” that, while not the most feature-rich, offer reliability and serviceability. And part of the reason for that is that the design has been around, largely unchanged, since the 1970s (the 2824-2, which is the current standard, was released in the 80s). That is, until 2013, when ETA launched 80-hour movements based on the 2824-2. First debuted in a Tissot as the Powermatic 80, ETA nearly doubled the 2824’s power reserve by slowing the escapement’s frequency from 28,800bph to 21,600bph, introducing synthetic components, and increasing the mainspring’s capacity. The biggest update to the 2824 format in a generation (though they no longer use that numbering), as ETA is part of Swatch, these movements gave the group’s catalog of brands under Omega an unexpected edge in the market, but were not available to third-party brands, thus limiting their overall impact. The ETA 2824 featured in a Sinn 556i In 2003, Sellita began supplying movements to third parties as a response to Swatch’s...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the b/1.3r, with a Solid Gold “Ripple” Dial Worn & Wound
Jan 26, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the b/1.3r, with a Solid Gold “Ripple” Dial

Some weeks, like last week, frankly, I look at the crop of new releases hitting my inbox and wonder about the state of things in the watch industry. Everything feels like an iteration, a slight tweak, or an attempt to return to the mean. So we get slightly more luxe Speedmasters (where the pricing immediately becomes the talking point), a cadre of new Defys that have us wondering “Didn’t they already make this one?” and Carreras that hint at the watch community sneaking back to the Big Watch Era. Is it possible I’m overreacting? Of course. None of the watches mentioned above are bad by any means, in fact all of them are quite good, objectively speaking. It’s just that they don’t represent a ton of creativity or innovation, and when you work in the industry you become attuned to just how rare genuine creativity in watchmaking really is. It makes sense though. This is a business that’s all about selling watches and the biggest brands in the world need to cast a wide net. Big risks when it comes to design can’t reasonably be expected as the norm.  So we turn to the smaller makers, independents and microbrands, hoping they’ll be the ones to wave the proverbial Freak Flag. The new release from Toledano & Chan, the b/1.3r, with a custom made solid gold dial, is the kind of watch you love to come across in the midst of the big guys refreshing product lines and going through the motions.  Their latest introduces a slightly smaller case in blasted titanium, meas...

Introducing – Twenty Years and Going Strong, the Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD Monochrome
Jan 26, 2026

Introducing – Twenty Years and Going Strong, the Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD

Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r

Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda Fratello
Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda What Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda

What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brand’s 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldn’t the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda to read the full article.

Review – The Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium, The Automatic Integrated Watch That Redefines Value Monochrome
Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Jan 23, 2026

Review – The Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium, The Automatic Integrated Watch That Redefines Value

Undeniably, recent years have seen a transformation in mechanical watchmaking, surprisingly in both directions. While traditional brands have gone up in price quite drastically, we have seen quite a change on the other side of the spectrum. What once required thousands of euros can now be had for a fraction of that: finishing, materials, in-house […]

The 25 Best American Watch Brands (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 23, 2026

The 25 Best American Watch Brands (2026)

"Made in America" is a label that is much rarer to find on products now than it was 100 years ago, and that is especially true when it comes to watches. Once a bustling industry in the U.S.A., watchmaking largely migrated away from its traditional American hubs in the early 20th Century to countries like Switzerland and Japan, which still import oodles of watches to the States every year. However, American watchmaking has been seeing a slow, somewhat quiet renaissance over the past couple decades as a new generation of trailblazing entrepreneurs, from all across the U.S., strive to bring the horological trade back to these shores. Each of them takes a slightly different approach; some, like RGM, make nearly the entirety of their watch, including the movement, in the U.S., while others, like Shinola, import the majority of components but assemble the watches in an American factory, providing dozens or hundreds of local jobs. Here we take a look at 25 notable American watch brands, spotlight their leading models, and briefly examine how "Made in America" each one really is.  [toc-section heading="RGM"] Founder: Roland G. Murphy Headquarters: Mount Joy, PA Notable Models: Pennsylvania Series 801, Pennsylvania Tourbillon, 801-A “Aircraft” “RGM” are the initials of Roland G. Murphy, the trained watchmaker and former Hamilton Watch Company technical manager who founded his own watch brand in Lancaster County, PA, one of America’s ancestral watchmaking centers, in 1992...