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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Girard-Perregaux’s Brand New Caliber GP4800 Finds Its Home in the Laureato Fifty Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux s Brand New Caliber Oct 7, 2025

Girard-Perregaux’s Brand New Caliber GP4800 Finds Its Home in the Laureato Fifty

Let’s orient ourselves in the watch world five decades ago. The year is 1975, and we are in the height of the quartz crisis. Just six years prior in 1969, the watchmaking landscape forever changed with Seiko’s introduction of the first quartz timepiece, which called into question the future of mechanical timekeeping as we knew it. The era also marked the advent of the luxury sport watch, beginning with Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet between 1970 and 1972. These two pivotal moments in horological history gave birth to an icon: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The first Laureato entered Girard-Perregaux’s catalog in 1975. The model was modestly sized by today’s standards and was even rather mid-sized for the era with a case measuring just 36mm (by comparison, the first Royal Oak began to set the tone for more oversized watches clocking in at 39mm, but was considered notably large and given the nickname “Jumbo”). The 1975 Laureato featured a two-tone construction, highlighting its mix of curves and geometric shapes. The design echoed Genta’s but with softer edges and a slightly more elevated look thanks to the addition of yellow gold elements combined with stainless steel. In line with the times, the model housed a quartz caliber, but not just any quartz caliber – it was COSC-certified. “The Laureato was more than just a new model for Girard-Perregaux’s catalog,” confirms Beatrice Morelli, Chief Customer Experience Officer. “It represente...

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video) Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Oct 1, 2025

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video)

On the eve of the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, H. Moser & Cie. pulls the covers off its latest Formula 1-themed watch. But it’s perhaps not what you expect, as it doesn’t come in some highly exotic F1-tech derived material, nor with a revolutionary design. Instead, the renowned independent […]

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” RD#5 pairs a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin package Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak “Jumbo” Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” RD#5 pairs a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin package

A new in-house calibre and innovative smartphone-inspired chronograph pushers keeps this complicated "Jumbo" as thin as a normal one.The post Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” RD#5 pairs a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th Fratello
Breitling × Fratello Evening Sep 30, 2025

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th

It is with pride that I announce the upcoming Breitling × Fratello event, which will take place in the city where I was born. In fact, the Breitling boutique in Enschede is part of Koelink Jewelers, the store where I got my first serious watch back in 1998. On November 7th, we will host a […] Visit Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th to read the full article.

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Bremont s New Direction Davide Sep 26, 2025

Bremont’s New Direction: Davide Cerrato on Challenges, Vision, and British Watchmaking

It’s not hyperbole to say that Bremont’s presentation at Watches & Wonders 2024 was one of the most hotly discussed and contentious events in the watch industry in years. The British brand, long associated with their founders, brothers Nick and Giles English, was now under the control of a new CEO, watch industry veteran Davide Cerrato, and a new ownership group. We knew ahead of time that the watches presented at the show would represent a new direction for the brand, one that would apparently see them reaching for the mass market, well beyond the deep enthusiast core audience they had cultivated so carefully since the brand’s founding. What we didn’t know at the time was the watches, a new logo, and a surprising new look and feel for the brand itself would cause so much consternation.  It’s a common complaint that watch media types are soft on watches that are objectively bad. Think of all the times you’ve seen a comment on an Instagram post or a watch article asking sarcastically if a piece of editorial content is bought and paid for by a brand. That somewhat ridiculous line of thinking is a topic for another day, but I think it’s fair to say no one accused any real writer of being soft on Bremont during Watches & Wonders 2024 and in the weeks shortly thereafter. Our own post was, I thought, a fairly balanced critique compared to some. My opinion in the days after the show was very much a first, hazy impression of a brand that had suddenly lost its footin...

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer s Latest Formula 1 Sep 26, 2025

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph

TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 refresh blends the collection’s colourful 1986 spirit with modern materials and solar-powered convenience. From the versatile steel Silverstone GP to the lightweight, vibrant TH-Polylight Monza GP, these watches show that racing DNA can still be fun, practical, and stylish! What We Love Successfully brings the colorful spirit of the 1986 original models with modern materials and solargraph movement Collection offers versatility with steel and TH-Polylight materials Solargraph movement is the best option for the quartz model. No battery changes, long autonomy, and eco-friendly. What We Don’t TH-Polylight bezels/cases won’t have the same scratch resistance or perceived “luxury” feel as steel. With a 38mm case size, enthusiasts who like larger watches may find it too small. Limited editions tied to specific races may be hard to secure or try on before purchase. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The story of TAG Heuer and Formula 1 is one of new beginnings. A tale that starts not in a quiet Swiss valley, but on the screaming straights of Monaco, Silverstone, and Suzuka. The story goes all the way back to 1986, when the watchmaker, now freshly going under the wing of Techniques d’Avant Garde, forming TAG Heuer, built a timepiece that matched the energy of the sport that it sponsored: light, colourful, and unafraid to stand out. The Formula 1 collection was released dur...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “The Adventure Spirit” is a travelling showcase of rare sports watches from the normally buttoned-down brand Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s “The Adventure Spirit” Sep 26, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “The Adventure Spirit” is a travelling showcase of rare sports watches from the normally buttoned-down brand

This exhibition is a unique opportunity to discover one of the most underrated sides of one of the most well-respected brands in the world. The post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “The Adventure Spirit” is a travelling showcase of rare sports watches from the normally buttoned-down brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC Fratello
Tissot s Beating Heart Sep 25, 2025

Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC

Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company’s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such […] Visit Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC to read the full article.

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch SJX Watches
Tudor s First-Ever Moon Phase Sep 25, 2025

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch

In a surprise launch from a brand best known for its dive watches, Tudor just rolled out the 1926 Luna. It’s a thinnish, 39 mm dress watch with a moon phase – a first for Tudor – as well as a date, though in the typical Tudor style the case is still rated to 100 m and fitted to a solidly constructed steel bracelet. And unusually for a new launch from Tudor, the 1926 Luna is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) calibre, which means lower specs than models powered by Tudor’s in-house movements, but also substantially more affordable at just US$2,800 or CHF2,400. The 1926 Luna debuts in three dial colours, including a champagne iteration that was conceived with the help of Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer who’s one of the most famous musicians in the Mandarin-speaking world. Initial thoughts Tudor has long excelled at sports watches with high specs and low prices – making them some of the best value propositions out there – but dress watches have always been a weakness. The brand has made several attempts at dress watches with mixed results. The 1926 Luna, on the other hand, is much more promising. The design is classical, even a little conservative, but the look is appealing. The brushed dial in metallic colours give this a much more modern look than the rest of the 1926 line, which appears a little dated. Purists will complain about the date window, and it probably looks better on a leather strap than a bracelet, but the 1926 Luna is a strong proposition in its price...

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s UFA Sep 25, 2025

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time

Grand Seiko unveils a second model in its Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) collection, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005. Featuring a violet-black dial inspired by Shinshu winter sunrises and powered by the latest generation spring drive technology, it represents everything Grand Seiko does best. Limited to 1,300 pieces, the 37 mm SLGB005 is made from the brand’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel, an especially hard-wearing alloy that’s making its debut in the Evolution 9 Spring Drive line-up. Initial thoughts The Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 “Ice Forest” was arguably one of the most important releases of this year, finally delivering a long-awaited mid-sized Grand Seiko Spring Drive, complete with an adjustable clasp and tightened accuracy rating. The SLGB005 feels like a worthy counterpart in another metal, quantifiably excellent inside and out. The SLGB005 retains the nearly perfect proportions of its titanium sibling at 37 mm in diameter and 11.4 mm thick, in a slightly heavier Ever-Brilliant steel case. Though Grand Seiko has used this material in the past, it’s the first time it’s been used for a Spring Drive watch in Evolution 9 guise, and also the first to be made at Shiojiri. This is a new colour of an existing dial pattern. Grand Seiko’s dial work is always excellent, especially the hands and dial furniture, which are finished to unusually high standards. The Spring Drive movement remains the same and excellent. While not mechanical, I’d argue that Spr...

First Look – The New Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II, Worldwide and Beyond Monochrome
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II Sep 23, 2025

First Look – The New Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II, Worldwide and Beyond

Louis Erard’s collaborative series continues to grow with playful yet serious partnerships, and this time, the brand once again teams up with Vianney Halter for a bold new chapter in their Régulateur line. Dubbed “World Tour”, the project reinterprets the Steampunk-inspired Régulateur through a silver monochrome base design, then spins off a series of colour-coded […]

Is The Classic Fusion Black Magic Hublot’s Dark Horse? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Hublot s Dark Horse? Hands-On Sep 22, 2025

Is The Classic Fusion Black Magic Hublot’s Dark Horse? (Hands-On)

Hublot are an ever-present disruptor of the traditional watch industry, but do the brand’s horological standards ‘walk the talk?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: Tough, light & unobtrusive on-wrist Bold design married with demure aesthetics Surprising variation of finishes and detailing What We Don’t: No lume on a sports watch? Chronograph operation feels tougher than most Movement choice makes for a challenging value proposition Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When I was first introduced to the luxury watch industry and all the wonders it holds, it was an overwhelming experience. This isn’t a ground-breaking revelation – I’m sure many of you shared the same circumstances at one point – but I found myself quickly scrambling for some watch advice, no pun intended. However, since I was the only watch nerd (that I knew of) in my demographic, I naturally navigated online. There, I was told a great many facts and rules. Some of them were good, like “don’t change the date between 9 and 3 o’clock,” or “take the watch off before you adjust the time.” Other bits and pieces, however, were just opinions disguised as fact. “Never buy [this brand],” “only buy [that brand] …” All the typical drivel we roll our eyes at now; I integrated into my own beliefs as a then watch noob. Of course, this also led me to one of the watch community’s biggest discourses: Hublot. From what I saw, th...

Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Review: A Beautiful Blue Ceramic Masterpiece WatchAdvice
Zenith s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Sep 20, 2025

Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Chronograph Review: A Beautiful Blue Ceramic Masterpiece

This isn’t just another colour variant, it’s Zenith pushing the DEFY Skyline Chronograph into full-ceramic territory with its signature blue. The result is a watch that turns heads like a show car but wears like a daily driver. A fitting 160th-anniversary statement piece that blends Zenith’s history with its future. What We Love Full royal-blue ceramic case and bracelet give the watch a bold, cohesive look that stands out from almost anything else in this price segment. Despite the 42 mm size, the ceramic construction keeps the watch surprisingly light and wearable, even on slimmer wrists. Zenith’s El Primero 3600 combines high-frequency accuracy, 1/10th-second timing, and a 60-hour reserve. What We Don’t Matching blue sub-dials keeps the design cohesive, but doesn’t have visual separation compared to contrasting colours. The date at 4:30 is a necessary compromise but still slightly disrupts dial symmetry. Ceramic links can be trickier to size and adjust compared to steel bracelets. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 Earlier this year, Zenith released a host of blue ceramic timepieces in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The timepieces included the Pilot Big Date Flyback, Chronomaster Sport, DEFY Skyline Chronograph, and, of course, the very special Zenith G.F.J timepiece. These special limited edition models were given the blue colour treatment as it’s a signature colour of the brand. The colour ...

From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint Fratello
Hublot s Atypical Cultural Footprint Sep 19, 2025

From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint

Hublot recently celebrated 10 years as the official timekeeper of the UEFA Champions League. To mark the occasion, the house released a special limited-edition Classic Fusion Chronograph. You may have noticed that we didn’t cover it on Fratello. Why? Well, because such sponsorships and co-branded watches tend not to interest our readers all that much. […] Visit From Stadiums To Studios - Hublot’s Atypical Cultural Footprint to read the full article.

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection Incl Video Sep 17, 2025

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video)

Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R; is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked […]

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes Fratello
Bell & Ross BR-X3 - Sep 17, 2025

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes

I have long had a soft spot for Bell & Ross’s X series. The BR-X1 chronographs were some of the most technically ambitious pieces the brand has ever produced, and the BR-X5 models proved that this ultra-modern side of the catalog could also deliver good looks. With that in mind, it was only a matter […] Visit Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes to read the full article.

Greubel Forsey’s New QP, and the Wild New Nano Foudroyante Worn & Wound
Greubel Forsey s New QP Sep 16, 2025

Greubel Forsey’s New QP, and the Wild New Nano Foudroyante

If you ever have the chance to try on a Greubel Forsey - any Greubel Forsey - take it. For one thing, these are rare watches, and it’s a cool thing to be able to say you’ve done. For another, Greubel makes objectively awesome watches, and any watch enthusiast should try out as many awesome watches as they can. But more important than that, Greubel Forsey is one of those brands whose quality is hard to understand through the internet.  Greubel Forsey is a brand that defies expectation. Since the launch of Greubel’s first watch in 2004, Greubel Forsey has pushed the limits of both technical and aesthetic watchmaking, and they’ve done it all without sacrificing their unique character, or seemingly ever needing to compromise. In fact, the Greubel Forsey of today is - at least outwardly - a brand with a clearer identity than most, that also happens to do what it does really, really well. A few weeks ago, in Geneva, our two Zachs had the chance to sit down with the brand to see the proof of that in person, and to catch up on some of Greubel’s latest releases, including the brand new QP Balancier and the new Nano Foudroyante - a direct successor to last year’s superb Nano Foudroyante EWT - each of which have been announced in highly limited editions of 22 watches, and each of which are great reminders of just how far Greubel has come in the last 25 years. It also doesn’t hurt that both the QP Balancier and the Nano Foudroyante easily rank among the most...