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Squale Gallery Squale

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Squale thread.

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2019

We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened

Bob Hawke’s estate auction offered a chance to reflect on a man known equally well for his capacity to skol a pint of beer in record time (he broke a beer drinking Guinness World Record in 1954) and being a past Prime Minister of Australia. The auction took place in a venue that could only … ContinuedThe post We tried to buy a watch at Bob Hawke’s estate auction, this is what happened appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? Time+Tide
Doxa Chronograph – as good Aug 11, 2019

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Aug 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic

It’s easy to forget or overlook the magnitude of what Hublot has achieved with their materials innovation - the scale and scope of their sapphire pieces is impressive to say the least, and their use of ceramic is amongst the most interesting in the business (which is no small feat given that every brand and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it Time+Tide
Hublot s Sang Bleu II Jul 19, 2019

Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it

When it comes to creative collaborations, few brands have the level of panache or skill that Hublot does. They have a few on the burner at the moment: their Orlinski watches and the one we’re looking at today – the Sang Bleu.  To be a little more specific, we’re looking at the Hublot Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s Sang Bleu II, as explained by the man who designed it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Jul 14, 2019

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch”

Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...

They don’t come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Red Magic Apr 30, 2019

They don’t come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic

Editor’s note: In the watch world we like to talk about trends. But the trends we’re talking about are pretty macro - after all, we’re talking a five-year production cycle, not five weeks. Fast fashion, watches are not. Having said that, one of the more prevalent trends is colour. Big, bold watches that stand out … ContinuedThe post They don’t come much brighter than the Hublot Big Bang Red Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: Omega’s watchmaking in the modern age Time+Tide
Omega s watchmaking Nov 20, 2018

INSIGHT: Omega’s watchmaking in the modern age

In the constant cycle of new releases, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that watches are machines built to last for generations - with a little regular care and love. And while you and I might be there obsessing over the year’s hottest release, or wondering what’s coming next, Omega takes a longer … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: Omega’s watchmaking in the modern age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT May 17, 2018

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium

The story in a second: A funky and practical Hublot packed with style and substance. Launched early last year in Geneva, the Big Bang Unico GMT - which technically is a dual time zone watch and not a true GMT, as there’s no hand running on a 24-hour scale - is the first arrival in … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Rado’s Coupole Classic is an everyday hero Time+Tide
Rado s Coupole Classic Oct 3, 2017

VIDEO: Rado’s Coupole Classic is an everyday hero

One of the great paradoxes of the Swiss watch industry is that, broadly speaking, it is locked into a cycle that demands shiny new watch releases (often referred to as novelties) on a yearly basis. Pretty much without exception, these are all watches that are often intended to last a generation or three. What this means … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Rado’s Coupole Classic is an everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts Time+Tide
Cartier s Maison des Métiers May 6, 2017

LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts

Editor’s Note: Few brands can match the scope and scale of Cartier. The Parisian jewellery house offers everything from the popular and modern Juste un Clou collection through to some of the finest bespoke jewellery made. The same is true for their watch collections. Tanks and Ballon Bleus might be the order of the day, but … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 incredible skills mastered in Cartier’s Maison des Métiers d’Arts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts

Owner of Rinascita Concepts, Dino lives and breathes quality – as you’ll see through his Instagram feed. Head over and you’ll find some of the finest custom accessories and haute horology that money can buy. NAME: Richard AKA ‘Dino’ OCCUPATION: Lover of gears on a large and small scale, and part-time creator of watch accessories. … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @rinascitaconcepts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota Time+Tide
Ressence Mar 31, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota

When Gaëtan Gaye moved from Richemont’s Amsterdam office to Ressence in 2015, he doubled the size of the Antwerp-based team, which was quite the change in scale. What hasn’t changed, is his twin passions for watches and cars, as evidenced by his Instagram feed. NAME: Gaëtan Gaye OCCUPATION: International Brand Director for Ressence HANDLE: @alpagota FOLLOWERS: … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @alpagota appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever… Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond Mar 15, 2017

BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever…

BASEL BUILDUP:  Seiko’s impact at Baselworld last year was measurable on the Richter scale. If it wasn’t the aftershocks of the Seiko Presage Chronograph 60th Anniversary Limited Edition it was watches like the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001. Hard model name to remember. Easy watch to be wooed by. The dial doesn’t quite sparkle in these pictures like it does … ContinuedThe post BASEL BUILDUP: 5 days to go. The appeal of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGD001’s diamond dust is forever… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.