Deployant
Review: the new Urwerk UR-120 aka Spock
Hands-on review of the new Urwerk UR-110 Spock with insider notes direct from Felix Baumgartner, featuring our own live photographs and release pics.
38 articles · 1 video found · page 1 of 2
Deployant
Hands-on review of the new Urwerk UR-110 Spock with insider notes direct from Felix Baumgartner, featuring our own live photographs and release pics.
Hodinkee
What We Know The last time I covered something from Formex was over a year ago, when the brand released a highly finished, full-ceramic sports watch, complete with a ceramic bracelet and even a ceramic micro-adjust clasp, at an unrivaled price point. Today, the brand continues its upmarket trend with a brand-new watch design called the Aria. The Aria takes the form of a broad, integrated-bracelet design in full grade 5 titanium. The 40mm case feels broader than normal, thanks to an impressively thin case height of 6.9mm, even though the lug-to-lug is still quite reasonable at 45.45mm. While the silhouette gives a smooth look, there's quite a bit of contrasting finishing going on here, with brushing of the titanium case and bracelet links done entirely by hand. Though the styling certainly leans towards its identity as a bold sports watch, there's a lot of subtlety in the design, for example, with the individual bracelet links being slightly curved or the extra dimensionality of the layer of titanium peeking out from each link's milled-out spaces. The clasp includes Formex's proprietary micro-adjust system, which provides extra space on both sides of the bracelet by pulling or pushing each side. There are three dials for the Aria: "Selva Green," "Ardesia Grey," and "Denso Blue." All three have a certain muted look to the hue, matching the slightly darker nature of titanium. Dimensionality is achieved through contrasting indices in rose-gold coloring, set on applied raised p...
Monochrome
When it comes to dive watches, some brands might be sort of a niche for a wide audience, but still carry a great legacy for the diving community. So is Squale, a brand that celebrated its 65th anniversary in 2024 and was created by Charles Von Büren, a renowned case maker. Since then, several models […]
Deployant
Released in Watches & Wonders 2026, here is our hands-on review of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points .
Deployant
Peter Speake emerges once again with a new collaboration with Schwarz Etienne to release the new 1902 Synergy. This was revealed in WWG26.
Video
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Worn & Wound
Since its launch in 2019, the Doxa SUB 200 has been one of my favorite value oriented dive watches to recommend. When it debuted, it was under $1,000 and really stood out in a crowd of vintage inspired divers. It was a particularly compelling option for enthusiasts who were after something affordable and loaded with a bit of history and was definitely not a Seiko. They were also getting that vintage appropriate sizing right before the pendulum swung all the way back toward watches under 40mm – the SUB 200 measures 42mm but wears significantly smaller thanks to the short lug profile. It was and is a great wearing, classically styled dive watch from a truly important dive watch brand. Doxa has just refreshed the SUB 200 and the watch that was revealed this week reflects a lot of what’s going on the industry at the moment, while also appearing to serve as a worthy heir (and complement) to the existing SUB 200. The new SUB 200 II sees Doxa making some unexpected refinements to the case and also offering the watch in a new suite of colorways and a novel case treatment. Taken together, it’s a significantly more contemporary execution of something we’ve all come to associate with pure vintage nostalgia. We’ll start with the case, which now measures 44mm in diameter. I did a bit of a double take when I saw that particular spec – we’re deep in the era of brands downsizing their iconic sports watches to accommodate the current appetite for sleeker, small-to-medium ...
Monochrome
For almost all modern watches, besides a few exceptions (there is always an exception to the rule), the crown is literally the command centre that winds the mainspring, sets the time and controls common complications like dates, calendars and GMTs. Supplementary controls like pushers complement the crown, but they’re limited to specifics like chronographs or […]
Quill & Pad
On one path stands Blancpain, a brand wrapped in the romance of antiquity and contemporary defiance. On the other path stands Jaeger-LeCoultre, the intellectual powerhouse frequently revered as the watchmaker of watchmakers. Which do you choose? The post Clash of the Titans: A Comprehensive Guide to Blancpain vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
If you have been following us for a while, you are likely well versed in Squale’s divers, vintage-inspired designs, and limited edition runs. The brand has quietly been a leader in the realm of dive watches since the 60s with a cult following from hardcore dive watch nerds. In the past decade in particular, Squale has been getting more and more traction and recognition. In 2019, the brand notched its 60th anniversary and with that, introduced a new collection: the Sub-39. This limited edition fittingly paid homage to Squale’s early 1960s divers, using an original prototype with a 39mm case as reference. Following its success, the brand ultimately made the Sub-30 a permanent collection, upping the ante with COSC-certification and complications like a GMT. Today, we get the next evolution with the Sub-37 Legend. Focusing on the brand’s core tenants – proportions, function, and character – the new slightly sized down 37mm diver emphasizes form over function in a way that is faithful to the golden age of diving, an era when watches were designed to perform rather than to impress. Beginning with the dial, you have a fairly quintessential execution in matte black with a sapphire glass-box crystal reminiscent of vintage plexiglass while ensuring durability and optimal dial legibility. Visibility remains at the forefront of this utilitarian design with both the dial and hands treated with SuperLumiNova Old Radium. Framing the dial is a clean, highly readable unidirection...
SJX Watches
In order to mark the spiral hairspring’s 350th anniversary and celebrate its inventor Christiaan Huygens (1629 – 1695), Japanese watch retailer Shellman presents a two-week exhibition event in Tokyo, The Origins of Time = Astronomy. Opening November 19 and slated to run through December 2, the Shellman exhibit is a collaboration with the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and showcases the larger extent of Huygens’ work, from horology to optical observation devices. Themed around the Dutch scientist credited with building the first pendulum clock and with inventing the hairspring, the exhibit also explores larger fields of horology, with a focus on astronomy and modern independent watchmaking. Original drawings showing early attempts at making a sprung balance. Beyond his practical applications in horology, Huygens left marks on many other scientific fields, from geometry to physics and astronomy. He notably discovered Saturn’s largest moon Titan and cemented the wave theory of light propagation. One could say that he was interested in the celestial bodies as much as he was in understanding motion and measuring time here on Earth. In his honour, the exhibit leans on the astronomical theme as well. The exhibition is accompanied by a selection of special watches available for sale. Visitors will have the chance to acquire the world’s smallest wristwatch planetarium, the Planetarium Christiaan Huygens Limited Edition, created by the Du...
Hodinkee
For the watch enthusiast who doesn't subscribe to the whole "size matters" theory.
Time+Tide
Need a watch that can withstand the harshest things you can throw at it? Here are a few suggestions.The post 9 of the best tough watches for timekeeping under extreme conditions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...
Fratello
You might say that Omega’s Summer Blue collection is old news in 2024, and you’d be right. Omega’s Summer Blue line was hot and trendy in 2023, but it’s been a year, and aside from a few underwhelming Olympic models, we have not seen much from the Biel/Bienne-based brand. OK, there were the white-dial and […] Visit A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue to read the full article.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point. Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...
Monochrome
It’s no secret Porsche is extremely capable of building race-winning cars in all forms of racing. From Formula 1 to Rallying, the brand has conquered it all. But its biggest legacy perhaps, is in endurance racing, with a record-setting 19 overall wins at Le Mans and 18 overall wins at the Daytona 24 Hours race. […]
Quill & Pad
The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.
Worn & Wound
Over the last several years, something has happened to the humble Universal Geneve Polerouter. This watch, once a go-to recommendation for collector’s looking to get their feet wet in the world of vintage, has risen in stature, value, and overall name recognition as the watch market has expanded. As with any niche hobby that, over time, approaches the mainstream, hidden gems become less hidden. The Polerouter, while not a household name like the Speedmaster or Submariner, is not nearly as under the radar as it used to be. While those of us who have been around this stuff for years might mourn the availability of great examples of the Polerouter on the cheap, it’s hard not to be happy that people are discovering and appreciating the watch. As a gateway to the hobby, and vintage specifically, it’s a collection that could lead a curious collector down any number of paths, each one rewarding in a different way. That’s because there are so many ways to approach the Polerouter: as a creation from the mind of the biggest name in the history of watch design, as an elegant sports watch that helped set a template for some of the most popular watches of the current era, and as an uncommon mechanical triumph. And, of course, it’s still a relatively accessible piece of a key part of watch history, and a great representation of Universal Geneve, a brand that exists today as a time capsule. Perhaps one of the clearest signals that the Polerouter has crossed a threshold of s...
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin is introducing a more classical iteration of its affordable Freak to mark the 15th year of PMT The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in Thailand. The Freak X Enamel Blue maintains the avant-garde styling of the model while introducing a touch of old school elegance with a captivating blue enamel dial embellished with vibrant guilloché. Initial thoughts Ulysse Nardin, known for its experimental designs, pleasantly surprises by integrating a champlevé enamel dial into a watch that is otherwise unabashedly modern. The standout feature is the dial that combines the artistry of enamelling and guilloché, made possible by the brand’s in-house dial factory. This infusion of classicism into the inherently contemporary watch results in an understated and surprisingly harmonious aesthetic. As is always the case with a novel limited edition, hopefully Ulysse Nardin will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating too much in future models. The Freak X Enamel Blue carries a price tag of US$40,100, almost twice the cost of the standard model. While the dial is traditional enamel – painted and fired by hand in other words – the construction and movement remain unchanged over the standard model, making the price hard to rationalise. 15th anniversary The Freak X edition commemorates the fifteenth anniversary of PMT The Hour Glass, a joint venture between local jeweller Prima Times (PMT) and Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass. Establish...
Time+Tide
Casio’s G-Shock are one of the most quietly prolific brands out there. The catalogue is massive, and there’s no point in making a big deal out of a single release when so many hits come flying one after the other. That said, their lack of pushy advertising does mean that the cult of G-Shock can … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I’ve got to say, for a watch born in the middle of the ’90s, the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is looking pretty glorious. Partially that’s down to the fresh facelift and major internal upgrade, but it goes deeper than that. The SMP - as it’s known - knows what it is, and revels in that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Seriously fun, the gold and steel Omega Seamaster 300M Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Squale's 2001 Marina Militare hangs up its military uniform and goes civilian, delivering weapons-grade functionality to the general public
Revolution
Time+Tide
This is proving to be a summer of very hot watch releases, with highlights including a Tissot Tour de France edition and a new round RM.The post New releases from Breitling, Richard Mille, Tissot and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hublot has gotten a pretty bad rap in recent times. The brand is often dismissed as the butt of online commentators’ jokes, but we don’t feel this is entirely fair, so in today’s episode, we’re looking at the other side of things. RJ, Thomas, and Nacho have each whipped up three reasons why you should […] Visit Fratello Talks: Three Reasons Why You Should Buy A Hublot to read the full article.
Revolution
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