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Quill & Pad
The mechanical watch industry has a long history of being cyclical. And with war, COVID-19, and inflation, is the bubble about to burst yet again? Ian Skellern shares his thoughts on what 2023 may bring.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Ambassador Here’s a sweet vintage Bulova Ambassador, complete box and original strap. The steel case is 35mm wide and in great shape, with nice slim lugs and clear deeply engraved ‘Ballerina’ caseback logo. Gorgeous silver dial with simple steel stick markers and hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original acrylic crystal looks perfect and has the correct internal date magnifier window. This is front-loading case so no surprise that there is no photo of the movement. This beauty comes with the original Bulova strap, and maybe even the original Bulova buckle, although there is no photo of it and the seller doesn’t say. Boxes are included which is nice, although the seller states the inner box is damaged. View auction here. Eterna-Matic Centenaire This vintage Eterna-Matic Centenaire is one you don’t see too often, which is a shame as it’s a great looking watch. That said, here’s your chance at one! The 35mm steel case is simple with slim lugs like the Bulova above, with the biggest difference being the crown is neatly recessed into the case giving is a streamlined look. The dial is white with killer applied steel faceted arrow markers and the class...
Time+Tide
Back in 2014, I wrote my first article for Time & Tide. It was a review of the Rolex GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR which unfortunately came to be well known as the “Batman GMT”. This nickname is all well and good, except I don’t like Batman. You’d be forgiven for wondering why anyone named … ContinuedThe post Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bolivar, Gigantes cigars might be strong and powerful, but they always seem balanced. Sadly, this will be an experience that becomes rarer and rarer in the coming years as they have been discontinued and are harder to find. Ken Gargett highly recommends that If you ever come across any, grab them fast!
Time+Tide
I’m sure that everyone on the Time+Tide team has valid reasons for why their pick won 2022. And they’re wrong. The correct answer is Tudor. All kidding aside, it was an easy choice for me, given my proclivity for all things vintage tool watch. In fact, it wasn’t even close. Last year saw Tudor going … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? D.C. picks Tudor and here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
The story is almost too good to be believed. But Nicholas Bowman-Scargill brought a forgotten family legacy roaring back to life.
Time+Tide
This past year was full of excitement. It was the year of the MoonSwatch, About Effing Time seasons one and two, and oh so much more. I could assemble a top 10 list of highlights from the past year, but one moment reigns supreme for all of us here at Time+Tide. With the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: And our favourite T+T moment of the year was… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
As you start to read this article, let’s first see how much time it takes. Start by checking the time on your watch. Now stop and note which of your wrists you just raised to read the watch’s dial. For the vast majority of us, it’s the left wrist, right (er… correct)? Did you ever wonder how wearing a watch on one’s left arm became the norm? Let us briefly trace the evolution of portable timekeeping to arrive at the explanation. Wristwatches, of course, were not the first means by which individuals carried the time around with them. As I explore more extensively in this article, the first watches were essentially miniature clocks worn on a chain around the neck. These somewhat unwieldy timekeepers gave way to pocket watches, which were smaller, more streamlined, and could be worn stylishly inside the pocket of a waistcoat. When one wanted to check the time (as below), one simply reached for his watch inside one of these pockets to consult it, and then stash it again until it was needed. Utilitarianism and practicality, however, have always been at the core of watchmaking, and the pocket watch ultimately proved to be too impractical for the needs of an evolving 20th-century society. Women started wearing timepieces as bangles on their bracelets as early as the 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1900s that the utility of a wrist-worn watch became apparent to the male population at large, which had long considered such a device feminine. It started with Louis Cartier...
Hodinkee
Life is too short to let the Stetson hat and cowboy boots gather dust.
Time+Tide
Any watch worth keeping in the collection has a story. Or at the least, a defined purpose. Some are sentimental: an heirloom, a gift, or one that marks a significant moment all fall under this category. Others are purely practical: the beaters. The quartz grab-and-gos. The piece you choose when you don’t have time to … ContinuedThe post The three watches D.C. wore most in 2022 – Seiko, Omega, and G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
For many watch enthusiasts, it is probably not a stretch to say that fine timepieces are often enjoyed with a fine glass of bubbly. So without further ado, here are five much-heralded prestige champagne releases from the stellar 2012 vintage that stand out for their extraordinary “taste.” Just in time for you to toast the start of 2023!
Deployant
Followup to my Dear Santa essay, I hinted at a camera on the wishlist. And Santa has delivered, the Sinar X with Nikkor W 180mm f/5.6 large format camera.
Hodinkee
Selections from the Hodinkee Shop to match the largest, or the smallest, wrists among us.
Time+Tide
Ever since I saw a 30-minute teaser for this film during Dubai Watch Week last year, I have been itching for the premiere of the full feature. Making Time, executive produced by Ian Skelleren (co-founder of Quill & Pad) and Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi (Director General of Dubai Watch Week), not only delivers a documentary that … ContinuedThe post One to watch: “Making Time” documentary now available to stream in time for the holiday break appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
The HYT brand is experiencing an encouraging renaissance. It came back with a big bang with the help of Kairos Technology and a certain Davide Cerrato at the helm. For reference, Davide is just the guy who launched the initial Tudor Black Bay in 2012 and oversaw Montblanc’s purchase of Minerva. Good CV, then. The … ContinuedThe post The HYT Hastroid Cosmic Hunter combines avant-garde tech with materials of old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s nothing more frustrating to a budget-oriented collector than seeing safe-queen luxury watches that get snapped up and hidden away, only to drive up prices and leave those watches unappreciated. Sure regular wear is likely to result in the odd scratch and bruise – that’s an inevitable part of the process. But if you want … ContinuedThe post Scratch me if you can: How to wear your luxury watch and minimise the wear and tear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One thing watch enthusiasts often do is dismiss “off the shelf” calibres. The allure and buzz of “in-house” movements has cast a dismissing shadow over mass-produced calibres. But, like many other things in life, sometimes it is more about how you use it than anything else. I will not deny it, standard ETA and Sellita … ContinuedThe post Workhorse makeover: “Off the shelf” calibres can be pretty too – ETA/Peseux 7001 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Allow me start off with a recent watch acquisition story. Last month, I was travelling for work and ended up with a few hours to kill on a Friday afternoon after meetings wrapped up. I asked my colleagues that lived locally for a recommendation on where to go and check out some nice watches. They pointed … ContinuedThe post How to be a better customer – from a guy who just randomly picked up a new Rolex DJ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.
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Time+Tide
If you have ever binge-watched Drive to Survive, played the Gran Turismo video games, or, more plainly, are a Formula 1 super-fan, then you will probably want to race over to the IWC pop-up racing experience over at the Chadstone Shopping Centre. Not only will you be able to get hands-on with a range of IWC watches, you will … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The wristwatch hobby is often full of lore and ritual, with prescribed traditions and a general consensus that old age legitimises worth. BA111OD are an incredibly young brand having been started in 2019, which would ordinarily lose them a chunk of customers were it not for their relentless challenging of misconceptions about Swiss watchmaking. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Designed and assembled by MB&F;, the M.A.D. 1 was initially conceived as a limited-edition thank-you for the brand’s longstanding collectors known as the “Tribe” and its suppliers. It then became a standard production model, allowing the wider public access to the most affordable creation ever released by the independent watchmaker. Now MB&F; has created a limited edition for GMT Italia, the retailer owned by the Corvo family, the M.A.D. 1 “GMT Milano”. Initial thoughts MB&F; embodies independent watchmaking, in my opinion, because it creates a whimsical yet alluring timepiece with authentic design and ingenuity. But its creations, typically priced in the six figures, are out of reach for the average collector. That’s where the M.A.D. 1 comes in. The M.A.D.1 “GMT Milano” costs the same as the regular production model, making it an appealing proposition for something with the flavour of avant-garde independent watchmaking without breaking the bank. With only 30 pieces, it will no doubt sell out immediately, but lucky 30 buyers will definitely have an uncommon M.A.D. 1 edition that stands out from its peers. More broadly, the M.A.D. 1 is avant-garde in terms of design and certainly looks like an MB&F; creation – but it is executed in a very economical manner. While the design is striking, one reservation I have with the M.A.D. 1 is the case construction, which relies on glue to secure all the parts together. But again, for what it retails for, that is accept...
Hodinkee
The Deepsea Challenge can go 11,000 meters and beyond. Not an easy thing to test for, especially in landlocked Switzerland.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches differ greatly in their sizes, designs, capabilities, straps and bracelets, and even in the materials used to make their cases. The one element that nearly always seems to be present when we peruse watches’ specifications is the use of sapphire for the crystal (for the newest of newbies, that’s the round, glass window over the dial). Over a certain “luxury” price point, a sapphire crystal is not even seen as a benefit but the baseline standard, like tempered laminated glass in a car windshield. How did sapphire come to play this key supporting role in watch manufacturing, and what did watchmakers use before it came along? For that matter, what differentiates different types of sapphire crystals from each other? Which materials other than sapphire are still being used in the watch industry, and why? And is sapphire being used for anything else in horological circles besides crystals? What are the properties of sapphire? Believe it or not, that little lens over the dial of your watch is made from one of the hardest substances on Earth. It is one of two precious gemstones from the mineral variety corundum, the other being ruby. Corundum, a crystallized aluminum oxide, is clear in its purest state; sapphires and rubies receive their blue and red colors, respectively from impurities: traces of titanium, and iron in the former, and of chromium in the latter. Sapphire (above) has a ratio of 9 on the Mohs Hardness scale. Among minerals, only moissanite, a naturally...
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