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Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Fratello
Longines Oct 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx

It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time to grab a cup of coffee and enjoy another one of our showdowns. Last week, we put two dressier moonphase watches from Longines and Tudor up against each other. This week, we’re staying on the dressier end of the watch-design spectrum. However, we’ll do so with two more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx to read the full article.

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Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 10, 2025

Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made

The need to read the time in the dark has been a challenge for the makers of timepieces for hundreds of years. The first solution was not a visual but an audible one: watches that could chime the current hour and minute on demand. These types of watches, aka minute repeaters and sonneries, are quite rare and expensive today and regarded as luxuries rather than the utilitarian inventions they initially were. In the 1900s, a more practical option presented itself: treating a watch’s dial with luminous paint that made its time display visible in darkness. And while this approach proved to be much more cost-effective and practical, it also brought a new set of challenges, as the earliest substances used on the dials were discovered to be unsafe, for the people who made the watches and, to a lesser extent, those who wore them. Let There Be Light The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was radium paint, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that, as its name implies, radium (specifically Radium-226, which was used as the base of the “Radiomir” substance registered by Guido Panerai ) is radioactive. In the 1920s, the mostly female factory workers who painted the watch dials with radium compounds started falling ill and dying at alarming rates, leading to lawsuits against the companies that produced the material and eventually, safer working conditio...

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Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2025

Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions

The designer and artist Romaric Andre (better known as Seconde/Seconde/) has had a string of hit limited edition watches over the last few years. Seriously, Google his name of Seconde/Seconde/, or just search our site, and you’ll see collaborations with brands large, small, expensive, affordable, and everywhere in between. He is, quite simply, one of the more prolific figures in the watch industry over the last five years or so.  I have to confess I’m not sure if anyone has yet attempted to make a list of the best of most viral Seconde/Seconde/ creations, but if such a list exists and it doesn’t have his Halloween themed collaborations with Spinnaker on it, I’m here to tell you it’s incomplete. This is the type of watch that when it was launched, the inevitable shortage produced vitriol and anger on Instagram (quickly corrected with the announcement of an additional, less limited batch). Now, Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ have reteamed for another bite at the apple with the Fleuss Automatic Seconde/Seconde 2025 Edition.  The new release maintains the “phantom” dial concept (a take off on “Fifty Fathoms,” get it?) but this time around there are two case sizes to choose from, 40mm (“Phantom Steel”) and 43mm (“Phantom White”). Both have a textured gray dial with lume filled indices and hands, and of course a whole bunch of those little lumed ghosts, completing the visual pun.  In addition to the option for multiple case sizes, both variants also ...

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Introducing – The Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Oct 10, 2025

Introducing – The Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial

This year is pretty special for Kurono Tokyo, the more accessible brand created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Indeed, 2025 marks the watchmaker’s 60th anniversary, which the brand is celebrating as its diamond jubilee, resulting in several special edition watches that pay tribute to design features created by Asaoka. Following the highly elegant 2025 […]

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Seiko Celebrates 75 Years of Peanuts and Snoopy with Vanac SDKV011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Oct 10, 2025

Seiko Celebrates 75 Years of Peanuts and Snoopy with Vanac SDKV011

Seiko celebrates 75 years of the Peanuts with a King Seiko Vanac Peanuts 75th Anniversary SDKV011, with everyone’s favourite Beagle on a newspaper-inspired dial. Limited to only 150 pieces for Japan only, foreigners will need to get creative if they want one. Initial Thoughts Peanuts is huge in Japan – or more accurately, Snoopy is. Grandberry Park in Tokyo plays host to a three-story tall Snoopy museum that receives several times as many yearly visitors as the Charles M. Schulz Museum in California. It should be no surprise then that the new Vanac is for the Japanese market only, which is unfortunate as it is an appealing watch for a relatively reasonable price. While a bit late to the integrated bracelet sports watch craze since it was only launched earlier this year, the Vanac is competitive in its segment thanks to standout case finishing and a highly competent movement. The new edition retains all the appeal of the standard model; the two-tone dial with gilt accents and Peanuts characters is subtle and a little retro in keeping with the design’s origins. A Snoopified King Seiko King Seiko is a Seiko sub-brand positioned just below the better-known Grand Seiko. The marque emerged from a multi-decade hibernation in 2021. Seiko launched original King Seiko Vanac line during the early 1970s, with sharp angular cases, colourful iridescent dials and faceted crystals – but the latter is missing on the modern Vanac. That absence stings as a faceted crystal would be an...

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Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Oct 9, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5

This week, TAG Heuer announced a fifth generation in its Connected watch line, a collection of smart watches that lean more towards traditional watch form factors than most. It is an attempt to appease the modern watch enthusiast while offering the conveniences brought through connected features, most notably health tracking and phone connectivity. That does mean, though, that the previous generation did tend to fall somewhere in a no-man’s land where watch enthusiasts would most likely still prefer a watch, while those seeking smart features opted for more mainstream offerings from tech-focused companies. This new generation, though, is a true generational leap for TAG Heuer Connected. It brings about many meaningful improvements that might make you reconsider your next connected watch purchase. I was able to spend a bit of hands-on time with each version, cycling through the operating system to speak on it here.  Looking first at the case, TAG Heuer is now offering the Connected Calibre E5 in two diameters, the standard 45 millimeter and a new 40 millimeter version. For those scoffing at the 45mm diameter, the Apple Watch SE comes in either a 40 or 44mm case for a frame of reference. At launch, seven standard versions are available between the two sizes, with one separate collaboration special edition. The 45mm case is offered in a mix of stainless steel with ceramic bezels or an all black DLC-coated titanium if you are looking for the full stealth approach. In the 40...

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First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance Monochrome
Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80 Oct 9, 2025

First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance

Tissot is basking in the limelight these days with a string of attractive models at unbeatable prices that have quite literally flown off the shelves, including the much-coveted PRX integrated sports watch. However, suppose you are in the market for a more traditional, clean-cut, daily, three-hand-and-date companion? Well, Tissot’s Classic Dream collection has just expanded […]

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Fratello Talks: The Present And Future Of Watch Design Fratello
Oct 9, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Present And Future Of Watch Design

Though people often focus on specs and price when talking about watches, we believe that design is just as important, if not more so. Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re diving into the present and future of watch design. Nacho, Daan, and Thomas discuss current design-focused brands and the individual designers who put pen to paper […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Present And Future Of Watch Design to read the full article.

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Museums, Foundations, Archives – The Rise of Swiss Horological Institutions SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2025

Museums, Foundations, Archives – The Rise of Swiss Horological Institutions

When I look at the current landscape of watch culture, I see a tension that defines our time. On one side lies the fascination with the way a watch appears on the wrist, and the endless variations of colour and form that drive demand. On the other lies a culture that is older, slower, and infinitely more complex; the science of horology, the mastery of craft, and the knowledge transmitted across centuries. In recent years, I have felt this latter culture slipping into the background, lost beneath the pageantry of style. Yet at the same time, I have witnessed a counter-movement taking shape in Switzerland, a series of initiatives that seek to protect, project, and transmit the deeper culture of watchmaking. I see in them a form of resistance, a refusal to let horology dissolve into an empty shell of design. This is the rise of Swiss horological institutions. The Clockmakers’ Museum in London. Originally displayed at the Guildhall, the collection is now on display at the Science Museum. The early resistance It is worth remembering that Switzerland, for all its dominance in production, did not take the first steps in creating enduring institutions around horology; Britain anticipated this need by centuries. In 1631, Charles I granted a royal charter to the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, giving formal civic recognition to the craft. What began as a guild evolved into a guardian of standards, a keeper of apprenticeships, and eventually the custodian of one of the world’...

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Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 8, 2025

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following

The Seiko SARB033 has joined the ranks of Seiko watches that are more popular and coveted than ever - despite never having been sold outside Seiko's home country of Japan and also despite exiting the market entirely back in 2018. In this article, we explore the SARB033 and its closest siblings from the elegant collection and try to uncover what makes these hard-to-find timepieces so appealing.  Seiko SARB Collection History: Seiko introduced its SARB collection exclusively to the Japanese market in 2006, positioning it as a more upscale alternative to the sportier 5 Sport line, which also offered watches with the brand’s own automatic movements at very approachable prices. The SARB series (no, the letters don’t stand for anything, we checked) was built around the Seiko Caliber 6R15 movement, more on which below, introduced by Seiko one year prior.  The first generation of SARB watches (SARB001, SARB002, and SARB005) appears to take inspiration from the King Seiko “Vanac” editions that made a brief but impactful splash on the market in the 1970s, with their angular cases, funky dial colors and textures, and faceted crystals. The next wave (SARB007, 009, 011) goes for more of a rounded, “Retro Modern” character, with vintage designs influencing the three-hand-date dials. On the heels of that trio came the first models in the series to really break through to widespread enthusiast acclaim outside their native Japan, the mountaineering-inspired “Alpinist” m...

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Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

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