Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light
The latest in lightweight mechanical sports watches from Omega features a movement made in ceramized titanium.
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Hodinkee
The latest in lightweight mechanical sports watches from Omega features a movement made in ceramized titanium.
Revolution
In rethinking every aspect of the sports watch, Omega has created a veritable stunner in the Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”.
SJX Watches
A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In the world of luxury steel sports watches, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato family is underrated. More than two centuries since they started making watches, the Laureato is made by a brand that has some of the richest history in horology. In that time, Girard-Perregaux have added significantly to the art of mechanical watchmaking, with … ContinuedThe post Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new slate grey dial for one of Tudor's most successful recent sports watches.
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SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s sports luxury line-up is a diverse one, including a world time, dual time, and chronograph. The most appealing models in the range, however, are unquestionably the Ultra-Thins, which are unfortunately only available in 18k gold, making them the most expensive. But they are slim, sharply executed and sit beautifully on the wrist. The collection includes two ultra-thin models, the time-only Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V. Both share the same base movement, and nearly identical dimensions; close your eyes and it’s difficult to tell the two apart on the wrist. But this story is only about the top of the line perpetual calendar. Cutting an elegant figure The perpetual calendar looks like all other Overseas watches, with the trademark bottle cap bezel and sloping case sides. But it is the most elegant of them all despite being a largish watch. It is exceptionally refined in profile – the case is 41.5mm in diameter, but just 8.10mm high. The elegant proportions are similar to those of the luxury sports watch greats, namely the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Because the watch is available only in 18k white or pink gold, it weighs enough to feel as expensive as it is. The weight is reassuring, and an important quality. Put simply, it’s a big, flat and heavy watch, which is what a luxury sports watch should be. Though the perpetual calendar is available in pink gold on a leather or rubber st...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
An unsung hero of the Rolex sports model lineup.
Deployant
Inspired by the vintage Minerva watches from the 1920s and 30s that were once used in the military, the 1858 collection pays tribute to the 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture and its extraordinary heritage. The new Montblanc 1858 timepieces uses design elements from historic models and redevelops them for the new ‘sports’ watch category, mountaineering.
SJX Watches
Originally a no-nonsense dive watch made for the frogmen of the Italian navy during the Second World War, Panerai has been moving towards more civilian-friendly sports watches. The evolution is best illustrated by the Luminor Due, which is smaller and thinner, and as far removed from a traditional Panerai as possible while still retaining the signature crown locking mechanism. At the same time, Panerai has also rolled out watches that are oversized like the military originals, but with an increasingly variety of dial colours, like the quartet with blue dials in 2016. Such metallic blue dials are currently fashionable, so it’s no surprise Panerai has continued with the same colour. The recent Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM01033 is essentially an upsized, 44mm version of the PAM 688 from 2016. I had one on the wrist for a few days – here’s how the test drive went. Compared with the earlier PAM 688, size is not the only difference with the new Luminor PAM 1033. A small but significant design tweak is the colour of the hands: instead of gold hands as as before, the hands now match the case. Though the change is seemingly minor, it gives the watch a different look, one that’s more contemporary, because the hands, though small, are the focal point on the dial. But the beige Super-Luminova on the dial and hands is faux-vintage, which does not quite match the newness of the blue dial. The dial is a “sandwich” construction, a signature feature of Paner...
WatchAdvice
The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega were the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. Things changed however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from being a watch used to time sporting events, to being the watch Astronauts used for space travel? It all starts with a story about a man named Walter Schirra. Being an aviator and military pilot himself, he was about to embark on the Mercury-Atlas 8 Mission. As a way to possibly mark the momentous occasion, he went watch hunting (as any of us would without a doubt). Omega had established a position for itself and with the release of the eye-catching Speedmaster Chronograph, it would be safe to say that it more than caught Schirra’s attention. This would be the turning point in Speedmaster’s history as from this point forward, it would go onto do numerous space travel missions. The “Professional” name was added to the Speedmaster during the 1964-1965 period. The Speedmaster would further cement its legacy as NA...
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Revolution
Leading the charge for a scientific watch, the Milgauss represents Rolex’s early experiments with sports and professional timepieces.
SJX Watches
Based in the American Midwest, Haven Watch Co. makes its debut with the Chilton, an eye-catching, hand-wound chronograph that’s a blend of retro design elements and affordably priced. The watches takes inspiration from the 1970s, perhaps the golden age of sports watches, and specifically, the funky designs and bold colours of the era’s regatta timers. Despite the incongruent combination of design features, the watch is refreshing and captures the bold, experimental spirit of the 1970s. Beyond the design, the Chilton is notable for being the first watch on the market powered by the new, hand-wound, “compax” chronograph movement from Sellita. While the movement is Swiss made, the external components like the case and dial are made in Asia, and the watches are put together in the United States. The Chilton is available on either a blue or white dial with a “compax” layout, both of which feature the same regatta-style 30-minute register that is divided into 10-minute segments. It doesn’t have an actual countdown function, of course, but vintage aesthetics, and not utility, motivate the design. The chronograph counters are small and far apart, just as it was on vintage chronographs, albeit ones that came long before the 1970s. And if the chunky hands look familiar, they are similar to those found on the Universal Geneva Compax “Nina Rindt”. The vintage styling also explains the decimal scale on the blue dial and pulsometer scale on the white. T...
SJX Watches
In the Rolex sports watch hall of fame, the GMT-Master II is arguably the most practical. It is a relatively affordable, dual time zone watch; and there are, after all, more people who travel than those who dive or race or sail. At the same time, the GMT-Master has always been available in precious metal, in 18k Everose for instance, and also lavishly bejewelled like the popular sapphire and ruby “SARU”. The new meteorite dial GMT-Master II, on the other hand, is bling meets functionality without the gemstones, making it an unusual and compelling watch. And it’s also the first time Rolex has used meteorite in a watch other than the Daytona or Day-Date. In fact, the meteorite GMT-Master probably the most practical ultra-luxe travel watch out there. And it costs only about US$1600 over the standard white gold GMT-Master with a blue dial, making it a worthwhile upgrade. Maybe “Pan Am” Rolex has not revealed what inspired the meteorite GMT-Master, but the GMT-Master “Pan Am” or “Albino” is obvious. Reputedly made in small numbers for executives at Pan American Airways – the company credited for the creation of the GMT-Master – the GMT-Masters fitted with white dials are either the refs. 6542 or 1675. A handful are known and have sold for well into six figures, but the white dial examples are controversial and often accompanied by unending questions as to whether they are legit. A jewel of a watch In contrast, the modern day equivalent of...
Deployant
The Rolex Daytona Ref.116500LN is a super popular sports Rolex model, with an almost perpetual waiting list, is the subject of our large format Watchscapes.
Hodinkee
A one-of-one titanium and tantalum sports watch from Vacheron Constantin – do you think it's worthy of production?
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Deployant
Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726/1A Patek Philippe is a high-end watch manufacturer synonymous with excellence. Two things it is famous for, among a myriad of other things, is the Nautilus sports watch and the annual calendar wristwatch. In 2016, Patek Philippe put two and two together and introduced the Nautilus Annual Calendar inRead More
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin expands its sports watch line with the introduction of a tourbillon piece. Enter, the new Overseas Tourbillon.
Revolution
A Tiffany stamped Speedmaster ref. 145.022 from the Phillips & Blackbird: SPORTS Auction catalog makes us question: Why haven’t we heard of these before?
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Reverso is, hands down, one of the all-time classic watch designs. And now, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold is double the fun with twice the dials … Believe it or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the original sports watches. The oft-quoted origin story about this iconic rectangle is … ContinuedThe post Two faces, both awesome. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I don’t know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos - recently given an all new and improved makeover - is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. … ContinuedThe post 4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Maybe I’m getting old and grumpy (I am), or maybe it’s a genuine shift driven by the increasing visibility and Instagramability of this hobby/lifestyle choice/money pit we call watch collecting, but I’m noticing an increasing homogeneity in what people are collecting. Steel sports this, royal that, unobtainable the other. Where are the weird, interesting and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Going to a watch meet-up? Leave the Sub at home appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Well, that’s the somewhat provocative title of this piece by Alex Williams, which cites numerous high-profile celebrities wearing high-ticket price vintage pieces as the driver for this ever-rising tide. For people reading T+T regularly, it’s the tale of ever-increasing premiums on seemingly innocuous sports watches. But, to give credence to the bitcoin hook in the title, there’s … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Are watches the new bitcoin? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution’s Sophie Furley continues her series of running reviews of sports watches with the Bremont Supermarine Type 300 as she prepares for the London Marathon.
Time+Tide
I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: White heat – the Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year I had the pleasure of reviewing the Ghost Explorer, a contemporarily styled sports watch from Australian-based Creux Automatiq. It was a surprisingly sophisticated and solid piece of kit, so when I saw posts of their forthcoming line, the Diamondback, I was keen to get my hands on one. Fast forward to me opening … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Creux Automatiq evolve their offering with the Diamondback CA-08 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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