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A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions

A. Lange & Söhne expands its Saxonia lineup with two striking new versions of the Saxonia Thin. Available in 18K Honeygold and 950 platinum, these limited editions are paired with glossy onyx dials, showcasing a minimalist design taken to its most sophisticated extreme. The black gemstone surface gives the Saxonia Thin Onyx an even more […] Visit Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions to read the full article.

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Nomos Expands their Club Sport Oct 3, 2025

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions

I like to think I have a good balance in my life. While I live in a very rural part of the U.S., I’m equally able to spend time in cities around the world thanks to my work. Because of this, I appreciate the late nights in unfamiliar places all the more – at home, I’m in bed by 10:00 PM most nights with my three elderly dogs. It’s this, then, that attracts me so much to the new colorways of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtime with its Night Navigation Series: Grid, Trace, and Vector. These three references are designed to highlight the bit of thrill and adventure of entering a new city and navigating by the neon signs, storefront windows, and flashing crosswalks.  While longtime readers will know we’ve featured the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, it still remains a favorite for those looking for a watch that can balance its sporty design with the elegance that Nomos Glashütte excels at. This is due, in part, to the proportionality of the watch itself. Clocking in at a not-too-big-not-too-small Goldilocks-sized 40mm, it feels all the more slighter with its 9.9mm thickness. In fact, it’s the thinnest watch of its kind, making it just another reason to highlight the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer among its competitors. As mentioned, three new references have been released with this series. Trace pairs black and turquoise; Grid in amber; and Vector in olive and ecru. While each is defined by its relation to traveling at night, it works just as well as a daily watch...

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign Fratello
Hamilton Puts Oct 3, 2025

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign

I do not embark on nearly as many adventures as I would love to. As much as I like to tell myself it’s due to a lack of time, I know that’s not true, and the watch on my wrist is an excellent reminder that I need to go out more. Most of us wear […] Visit Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign to read the full article.

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Oct 2, 2025

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles

Montblanc’s mastery of métiers d’art and mechanical innovation comes together once more in its most opulent creation yet, the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles. Since introducing the Exo Tourbillon in 2010, a patented construction that positions the balance wheel outside and above the tourbillon cage, Montblanc has revisited this remarkable regulator in […]

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases Worn & Wound
Longines Makes Some Significant Updates Oct 2, 2025

Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases

Longines has announced a pair of new watches in their Spirit collection today, and taken together it feels like a fairly significant shift and update for the five year old line. When the Spirit watches launched in 2020, it represented Longines making an attempt to develop watches that put more of a balance on contemporary vs. vintage inspired divide, having spent years carving out a niche as one of the most tasteful reinterpreters of their own back catalog. The Spirit watches were an entirely new invention but still leaned into the brand’s natural heritage appeal, and impressed from the start with excellent finishing and build quality. As the collection expanded over the years, it’s grown full of under the radar sleepers, but a handful of little issues are always mentioned by admittedly picky enthusiasts when new products drop. At least some of those seem to have been addressed between these new releases, updated versions of the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback.  We’ll look at the Spirit Pilot Flyback first, as it’s a genuinely surprising and unexpected evolution of an ambitious watch that Longines debuted just two years ago. Longines has a long history with chronographs, and flyback chronographs specifically, so the introduction of a new flyback chrono at a competitive price point (at launch it came in under $5,000 in steel) was a big deal. Unfortunately, the case was just enormous, coming in at 42mm in diameter and around 17mm tall. The case height, in part...

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

Introducing – In Game and On the Wrist, The New Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7” Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field “Call Sep 30, 2025

Introducing – In Game and On the Wrist, The New Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty Black Ops 7”

Once an American brand, now owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a watchmaker with more than timepieces. It has fascinating stories to tell. We can’t forget the brand’s involvement in cinema, having been featured in over 500 movies since 1932 and its appearance in Shanghai Express, and then important features such as a futuristic […]

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back Fratello
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2025

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back

The SIHH, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, was a watch trade show founded in 1991 by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the show, compared to Baselworld, aimed to create a more exclusive, high-luxury atmosphere dedicated to fine watchmaking and […] Visit Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back to read the full article.

Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025 Fratello
Sep 28, 2025

Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025

Last week, I had the pleasure of visiting the Toronto Timepiece Show. I was also a jury member for the Timepiece World Awards, so I had some formalities to attend to. But more about that later; let’s talk about the show first. Toronto Timepiece Show Over 75 watch brands exhibited at the Toronto Timepiece Show, […] Visit Report: Toronto Timepiece Show And Timepiece World Awards 2025 to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver Fratello
Sep 26, 2025

Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver

There is something about a watch tied to a good story. Whether it is a mythical creature, a historical figure, or a place that sparks the imagination, the right narrative can elevate a watch beyond being just another diver in the lineup. Spinnaker has leaned into this idea more than once, but its latest release […] Visit Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver to read the full article.

ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York Fratello
Sep 25, 2025

ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York

Since 2020, ID Genève has produced watches with a more sustainable and equitable future in mind. The brand’s 100% Swiss-made timepieces feature innovative components, such as self-healing carbon fiber, reprocessed stainless steel, and leather-alternative straps. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations, ID Genève launches the […] Visit ID Genève Introduces The Circular SDG Timepiece At Climate Week New York to read the full article.

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2025

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne

Since its rebirth in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has built an enviable reputation among collectors, based in large part on its rich portfolio of movements. Visiting the manufacture in Glashütte, it’s easy to see why; nearly all of the roughly 650 staff are engaged in some aspect of movement production. As a result, in little more than 30 years, Lange has commercialised 75 distinct calibers and has the manpower to apply a consistent level of finishing across the entire range, from the simple to the sublime. Historically, this single-minded focus on movements has meant that dials have often taken a back seat. Though uniformly high quality and made of noble materials like sterling silver and solid 18k gold, the brand’s dials tend to be simple, classical, and austere. An obvious exception that springs to mind is the sapphire crystal-dialed Lumen series, but sapphire crystal is a common material in watchmaking and these dials tend to be produced in a relatively industrial manner. Despite its focus on movements, Lange began to stretch its wings with artisanal dials as far back as the year 2000, first with enamel and later with mother-of-pearl, guilloché, tremblage, free-hand engraving, aventurine glass, and onyx. Most of these dials were produced by suppliers, but the brand has quietly built an immensely talented team of engravers and enamellists since launching the Handwerkskunst editions in 2011, and now crafts some of the industry’s most extraordinary dials within its own...

Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Review: Three Years Later Teddy Baldassarre
Swatch Sep 24, 2025

Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Review: Three Years Later

Within the last few years, one watch has received more hype - or overhype - than any other: the multi-brand collaboration that set the watch world on fire three years ago, the Omega x Swatch Moonswatch. People waited hours in line for it. Flippers grabbed as many as they could and listed them well above their retail cost all over the internet. People were charmed. People were horrified. Either way, people were talking.  Wherever you stand on the old Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch debate, no one can argue that its very existence didn’t change the landscape of watches irrevocably. We have firmly entered the post-MoonSwatch era. But now, three years later, what change did this unlikely Bioceramic collaboration incite? What’s up with this collaboration now? And will this duo of watch giants ever be stopped?  Below, I will tackle the controversial topic we’re gathered here today to mull over: the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch. Further, I will do my best to break down the context of it all in an easily digestible manner, mix in my own philosophical musings on ways to look at this Frankenstein hybrid of luxury-meets-mass-production, and dive into one specific piece from the 11 original models, in form and function. So without further ado, let’s get into the good stuff.  Some Context When the first round of the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch blasted onto the scene, it was something of an example of right product, right time. The hallowed (or blasphemous) year was 2022, which, as ...

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 24, 2025

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem

Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...