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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk Nov 12, 2025

Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V

The C1 Jump Hour Mk V marks the return of Christopher Ward’s mechanical jump-hour complication, now housed in a 39mm stainless steel case. It comes in two variants - Noon and Dawn - each available either on a steel bracelet or a leather strap. I got a chance to play with the blue Noon version […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V to read the full article.

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif Monochrome
Mido Nov 12, 2025

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif

Mido’s TV-shaped Multifort has quietly become one of the most distinctive value propositions in the sports-chic bracket. The core model provided you with the compact square-with-rounded-corners, TV-shaped case, a big date at 12 o’clock, and a modern Powermatic-based calibre, while last year’s S01E01 Test Screen showed how playful the format could be without losing seriousness […]

Introducing – Roger Dubuis is Back to Classic Designs, with the new Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Nov 12, 2025

Introducing – Roger Dubuis is Back to Classic Designs, with the new Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar

For many years, you’ve probably known Roger Dubuis for its bold, angular watches with openworked movements and tourbillon(s), most of them under the Excalibur collection. And while most are technically very impressive, this isn’t exactly the style that Mister Dubuis defined when he created the brand in the mid-1990s. The earliest watches, known as the […]

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - Nov 12, 2025

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches Fratello
Nomos Tetra Origins Watches Nov 12, 2025

Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches

In the words of the great Huey Lewis, “It’s hip to be square!” Just as the lyrics of this ’80s hit refer to it being cool to be conventional, the Nomos Tetra celebrates the traditional square dress watch in style. But there is a twist to both the song and the watches. As Lewis explained, […] Visit Spending Time With The New Quartet Of Nomos Tetra Origins Watches to read the full article.

Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo are Nov 11, 2025

Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo

One of the most unexpected but delightful trends to emerge in watches over the last few years is the rise of the “Japanese Calatrava” style watch. Even if you haven’t heard this term thrown around, you probably know exactly the type of watch I’m talking about, as there have been several that have emerged relatively recently. The small dress watches made by Kurono Tokyo are an obvious example, and perhaps the genesis of it all. Brands like Kikuchi Nakagawa and Noaya Hida are also part of this conversation at the more luxurious end of the spectrum, and of course there are a variety of affordable watches that sit nicely in this category or are tangential to it, like Kuoe and Orient (which admittedly has been doing this for many, many years).  I like this trend because it feels like a small segment of the watch world is pushing back on the dominant force in watches over the last decade: the vintage inspired sports watch. I’m no hater – I own a few vintage inspired sports watches and can appreciate the good ones, but they are so ubiquitous it’s tough to see them as anything but generic. The simple Calatrava style watches coming out of Japan are of course similarly generic, but are a welcome flip side to the sports watch coin, and I like the idea that someone entering the hobby now might find themselves down a rabbit hole of small dress watches as opposed to Submariner-style divers. I’d be very curious what that collector has in their watch box five or ten years...

Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie Nov 11, 2025

Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium

Any watch from Christiaan van der Klaauw that carries a planetarium is, by definition, special. Since the mid-1990s, this rare and spectacular complication has been the brand’s signature feature, conceived and calculated by Mister van der Klaauw himself. Recently, the brand, now under the guidance of Pim Koeslag, presented the fantastic Grand Planetarium Eccentric, the […]

Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Nov 11, 2025

Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar

One of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, together with F.A. Lange, Moritz Grossmann also established the German School of Watchmaking. This important name returned in 2008, when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter founded a manufacture of classically German, high-end watches. For its 17th anniversary, the brand is about to release a first: a watch […]

Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph Fratello
Nov 11, 2025

Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph

If you are a fan of interesting microbrands, you have heard of Peren. We have covered several of the brand’s watches. The minimalist style of the Regia and Nero divers is recognizable and serves as an adaptable canvas to experiment with different looks. However, for his next release, founder Andy Bica decided to leave the […] Visit Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph to read the full article.

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Nov 10, 2025

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier

The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history.    Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...

The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor Worn & Wound
Ming Nov 10, 2025

The New Ming 37.11 Odyssey Adds a GMT Complication to their Popular Dive Watch Form Factor

The latest from Ming is a continuation of their incredibly popular diver lineup, the current incarnation of which began with the 37.09 “Bluefin” and was later followed up with the 37.09 “Uni”. Both of those watches very effectively made use of a dual crown system (one for time setting, one for rotating an internal bezel that is not really a bezel at all), streamlined proportions, and Ming’s expertise in using sapphire and lume for both decorative and functional purposes. The new 37.11 Odyssey is an expansion of the ideas found in the Bluefin and Uni, with an added GMT feature and the option to spec the watch on the absolutely insane Polymesh bracelet. When we had our meeting with Ming earlier this year at Geneva Watch Days, this was the watch that brand founder Ming Thein was wearing on his wrist. I’ll be honest, the Polymesh bracelet kind of stole the show in that presentation, overshadowing the Odyssey just a little, but that’s simply because the Polymesh was a legitimately novel creation, while the Odyssey is something a little more familiar. That’s not a slight, of course. One of the things that makes Ming such an impressive brand is the way a clarity of design runs through each new watch they make, always in conversation with earlier pieces. That’s what helps you identify a watch as a Ming, but it can also mean that certain releases don’t create that vibrational spark of interest that really gets you excited.  That said, the Odyssey is an objectiv...

A GMT with Teeth: The Ming 37.11 Odyssey Bites Back SJX Watches
Ming Nov 10, 2025

A GMT with Teeth: The Ming 37.11 Odyssey Bites Back

Ming’s latest release, the 37.11 Odyssey, builds on the brand’s reputation for luminous, multi-layered dials and inventive designs. The Odyssey takes the visual depth seen in the Bluefin and Uni to the next level with a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the movement beneath, paired with shark-tooth hands and a multi-coloured luminous display. Despite its futuristic appearance, the Odyssey remains a practical travel companion. The compact 38 mm titanium case weighs just 42 g and offers 300 m of water resistance, while the Sellita SW330.M2 movement inside provides caller GMT functionality (with a twist). Available on a rubber strap, a titanium bracelet, or the brand’s new 3D-printed Polymesh strap, the Odyssey showcases Ming’s evolution from a design-driven micro-brand to a mature independent watchmaker with its own distinct language and value proposition. Initial thoughts The Odyssey is appealing because it plays to the brand’s strengths with regard to multi-layered, semi-transparent luminous dials. Like many of Ming’s best watches, including the similarly constructed Bluefin and Uni, the Odyssey provides a pleasing parallax effect thanks to the presence of luminous material on both the dial itself, as well as the underside of the sapphire crystal. The Odyssey takes the layered look even further by revealing hints of the movement through a smoked sapphire crystal dial. The movement is a typical Sellita GMT calibre, customised for Ming with anthracite-coated plat...

Geneva Auction Week Report - Highlights From Antiquorum’s Geneva Auction, Phillips’ Watches: Decade One (2015–2025), And The Celebration Of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary Auction At Sotheby’s Fratello
Breguet s 250th Anniversary Auction Nov 10, 2025

Geneva Auction Week Report - Highlights From Antiquorum’s Geneva Auction, Phillips’ Watches: Decade One (2015–2025), And The Celebration Of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary Auction At Sotheby’s

The Watches and Wonders fair and Geneva Watch Days always cause quite a stir in the usually calm and quiet city of Geneva. Auction week has another effect on the town. The thrill of the hunt for watches on auction brings a buzz that’s very different from the thrill of hunting for novelties. Stating that […] Visit Geneva Auction Week Report - Highlights From Antiquorum’s Geneva Auction, Phillips’ Watches: Decade One (2015–2025), And The Celebration Of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary Auction At Sotheby’s to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT Fratello
Nov 10, 2025

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT

Jack Mason has certainly been busy! The American brand has taken huge steps in renewing and improving its offerings. Recently, I had a chance to review both the updated Canton and the new Pursuit Pro. The next two releases that landed on my desk were new versions of the popular Strat-o-Timer GMT. After introducing a […] Visit Hands-On With The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer Titanium Diver GMT to read the full article.

Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns Fratello
Universal Genève Nov 10, 2025

Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns

Hold your horses; Universal Genève is still warming up for a full launch in 2026. For now, we have to settle for ultra-exclusive stuff. You could call it “clickbait,” but that would be too crude for two sets of three Universal Genève Tribute to Compax chronographs in white and pink gold with different dials. You […] Visit Introducing: Two One-Off Sets Of Three Universal Genève Tribute To Compax Chronographs - “The Nina” Returns to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Fratello
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Nov 10, 2025

Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is easily one of the most distinctive chronographs on the market. While it’s not a new watch, having debuted in 2014, it still manages to separate itself from a sea of lookalike luxury competitors. With its bold retro lines, the watch is a cool choice. For our hands-on […] Visit Hands-On: The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe Fratello
Orient Nov 9, 2025

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe

In Henry’s article detailing Calatrava-like watches for all budgets, he included the Orient Bambino. The Bambino offers a touch of vintage in a classic time-and-date configuration, accessible to all budgets. To rival the smash-hit Bambino, Orient introduces new European-exclusive colors to the AC0F core collection. The brand has long offered affordable and elegant watches for […] Visit Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe to read the full article.

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 8, 2025

Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service

Before getting into the watches of the Navy SEALs, it's worth establishing some context about these modern-day Spartans. Officially established in 1962, the Navy SEALs, one of the U.S. military’s most elite special operations units, has its origins in World War II, with the formation of organized maritime commando teams for covert reconnaissance of landing beaches and the mounting of coastal defenses. At first designated as Amphibious Scouts and Raiders, and later as Underwater Demolitions Teams (UDTs), the graduates of the Joint Expeditionary Base in Little Creek, Virginia served admirably in the European and Pacific Theater in the years following the 1942 attack on Pearl Harbor. In the Korean War that began in 1950, an expanded force of UDT operatives played a key role, turning their covert and demolition expertise to tunnels, bridges, and other coastal targets, as well as mine sweeping and infiltration.  With another Southeast Asian conflict heating up in Vietnam, President John F. Kennedy urged Congress to allocate more of the military budget to strengthen America’s capabilities in much-needed “unconventional warfare.” The result was the evolution of the UDTs and other special forces into guerrilla and anti-guerilla units that would be able to operate on “Sea, Air, and Land” - the Navy SEALs. SEAL team members, the first generation drawn from the ranks of the UDTs, were trained not only in amphibious activities but skills like hand-to-hand combat and hig...