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Time+Tide
Last week's big releases were particularly colourful, from laser tag-inspired Zodiacs to beautifully enameled Louis Vuitton watches.The post New releases from Nomos Glashütte, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We take a closer look at the Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata, the brand's entry into the 2023 edition of Only Watch.The post Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Breguet subtly flexes their horological muscles with a grand feu enamel dial and a repeater calibre.The post The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7637 is stealth wealth, personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The 20 semi-finalists of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives have been announced. An initiative started by the French luxury giant, the prize aims to reward the best independent watchmaking by supporting the winner through a grant and mentorship. The semi-finalists represent the full range of talent from across the industry and world, with established names such as Strehler and Sarpaneva alongside relative newcomers such as Yosuke Sekiguchi. There is also a range of abilities in this list, from those who are making almost a complete watch under one roof, to those who conceive and then bring together craftspeople to execute. It is reassuring to see such a wide variety in styles and approaches being represented here. Selecting just five to move on to the finals will certainly not be an easy task for the panel of judges. The 20 semi-finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler Tourbillon Grand Sport – Auffret Paris Project One – Barrelhand Ultralight 11G – Behrens Tourbillon Classique, Souscription Édition – Deprez Horloger Homage to Harrison One – Felipe Pikullik Part Time – Itay Noy L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Arkhea – Khemea KS 05 Titanium Blue Aventurine – Kross Studio Persée Nuit – Maison Alcée Roots – Narbel & Co Black Hole Tourbillon – Ondřej Berkus Fundamentum – Oscillon RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Pagès Chronographe Rattrapante – Petermann Bédat 119C – Sarauer Horolog...
Worn & Wound
It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case. Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison. The ...
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Quill & Pad
For the two new 2022 models in the Classique Calendrier Reference 7337 collection, one in pink gold and the other one in white gold, Breguet opted for a blue background on the day and date disks. What seems to be a mere detail has quite an impact on the watch's overall look as this color contrast makes these functions more pronounced.
Worn & Wound
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Time+Tide
Much of today’s focus in watches revolves around hype pieces, at least in the mainstream. Breguet, however, has zero concern for hype – their total focus and effort is devoted to horology in the traditional style of their namesake. Therefore they do not bend to trends, or cut corners. It is as if with everything … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...
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Revolution
Wei & Eleonor speak with Jean Arnault, Director of Watches at Louis Vuitton, to discuss the newly released Louis Vuitton Tambour. Redesigned as a lugless, bezel-less, integrated bracelet sports chic watch, the new Louis Vuitton Tambour is the most fiercely original offer in this hotly contested category, and speaks to the design intelligence of its […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...
Time+Tide
To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well. Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph. Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...
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Time+Tide
Hey folks! Back in the Friday Wind Down saddle. I would have loved to share my experience during the Paris Breguet trip last week, but alas I was in transit to Geneva and could not punch it out in time. But, back in New York City, I wanted to give you a peek into what … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Breguet Military Type 20 and Civilian Type XX watches are reviewed, highlighting their craftsmanship, movement, and distinct features.
Time+Tide
When you think of Breguet watches, the first word that comes to mind is probably guilloché. The maison is widely celebrated for their engine-turned dials, truly decorated by hand in a world where many other brands have moved towards stamping them. But Breguet is by no means one-dimensional. Sure, the brand’s namesake makes you think … ContinuedThe post The new Breguet Type XX and Type 20 move the needle forward while being more faithful to the OGs than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all. Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...
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SJX Watches
Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....
Time+Tide
On Wednesday afternoon in New York City, I returned to The Shed at Hudson Yards to check out the new Frieze exhibition of which Breguet is a proud sponsor. With eight floors hosting phenomenal artwork from renowned galleries and artists around the world, it is a great space to immerse yourself in various cultures and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Breguet x Frieze exhibition is back in NYC until May 21 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When Martin Green first got into watches in the late 1990s, Breguet was one of the brands that captivated him right from the beginning. And one Breguet stood out to Martin more than others: the Hora Mundi. Now he thinks that the new Hora Mundi 5557 is even better and with a complicated dial that is simply sensational.
Time+Tide
Breguet’s new Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 is based on their automatic pocket watches from the 1780s The perpetual calendar display is arranged with strength and balance It’s a great size at 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug The law of conservation of energy states that energy cannot be created nor destroyed, so the idea that … ContinuedThe post The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin introduces a new one-eyed monster in collaboration with Louis Erard Le Regulateur is available in both 39 and 42mm variants These timepieces are inspired by Stephen King, Goya and the Slavic monster Lykho Louis Erard has always specialised in elegant, fairly affordable Swiss watchmaking. Of late, however, thanks to the guidance of interim … ContinuedThe post Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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