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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Apr 19, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

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Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem Nov 4, 2021

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?

What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jun 3, 2021

Up Close: Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe

A variant of the fourth-generation F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, the Opus 1 Tourbillon was part of the inaugural project of the Opus series, the annual independent-watchmaker collaboration invented by Max Büsser of MB&F; fame. Named after the Opus One vineyard that’s also a joint venture between Americans and Europeans, Opus established Harry Winston as a bona fide watchmaker. Though Harry Winston has now put more emphasis on its primary jewellery business, its past Opus projects are mostly interesting and important examples of contemporary watchmaking. Ironically, despite being the opening act, the Opus 1 models were amongst the least novel, because they were essentially F.P. Journe movements dressed in Harry Winston attire. But that also makes the Opus 1 interesting simply because they were F.P. Journe. The Opus 1 was made up of three models – the Tourbillon, Resonance, and Reserve de Marche – each based on the equivalent F.P. Journe model, meaning an identical movement but a platinum case in the trademark Harry Winston style. Phillip’s Hong Kong watch auction this weekend includes an Opus 1 Tourbillon, which is worth a closer look, if for no other reason than the fact that it’s one of the rarest variants of the early F.P. Journe tourbillon. Initial thoughts The Opus 1 – any one of the three versions – is a peculiar watch. It is fundamentally an F.P. Journe, yet feels nothing like an F.P. Journe. If you closed your eyes and compared the two...

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GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Mar 29, 2021

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova

A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...

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‘Keeper Of Time’: Teaser Trailer For Full-Length Documentary Featuring Independent Watchmakers Maximilian Büsser, François-Paul Journe, Philippe Dufour, And Roger Smith Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Dec 12, 2020

‘Keeper Of Time’: Teaser Trailer For Full-Length Documentary Featuring Independent Watchmakers Maximilian Büsser, François-Paul Journe, Philippe Dufour, And Roger Smith

A two-and-a-half-minute trailer was recently released for the forthcoming documentary 'Keeper of Time.' The film primarily follows four independent watchmakers: Maximilian Büsser (MB&F;), François-Paul Journe (F.P. Journe), Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith. It also features interviews by scholars in physics, physiology, and philosophy as well as primarily New York City-based watch industry observers, weaving related topics about time into its fabric.

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HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner … Nov 16, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire

Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

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Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Jun 9, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition

When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...

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LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch Time+Tide
De Bethune Jun 6, 2020

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch

If you haven’t heard of James Thompson, aka Black Badger, you’ve probably seen his brightly lit work online. He’s done collaborations with independent watchmakers such as MB&F;, De Bethune, and Sarpaneva, and has more recently been working with the King of Customisation himself, George Bamford. While much of what Black Badger is known for is … ContinuedThe post LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie May 28, 2020

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020

First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers. With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow. But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches. Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.  

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Up Close: Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet s invention Apr 14, 2020

Up Close: Purnell Escape II Double Tourbillon

Given that the tourbillon was invented for the pocket watch, adapting Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention for the wristwatch opened the floodgate for tourbillon innovations in the beginning of the 21st century – the golden age of the tourbillon, perhaps technically but surely commercially. In fact, many watchmakers have gone far beyond the traditional concept of a tourbillon since English watchmaker Anthony G. Randall invented the double-axis tourbillon in 1978. But as the years passed, tourbillons evolved into elaborate constructions seemingly just for the sake of visual complexity. And there have been so many of them. For this reason, exotic tourbillons now seem dated, with sophisticated or truly interesting technical solutions being hard to come by. Potter and Purnell But the latest development in tourbillons is one of the most intriguing of recent times: maximising the visual effect of a tourbillon regulator not just by multiplying the axes of rotation, but speeding them up with the use of a specialised escapement invented two centuries ago by Albert H. Potter, a highly regarded American watchmaker based Geneva. The full potential of the Potter escapement was recently realised when it was combined with a carrousel outer cage in the MB&F; LM Thunderdome, the world’s fastest rotating triple-axis tourbillon. But the concept was first applied, arguably in a more elaborate manner, in the Spherion tourbillon of Purnell – which was developed by the same watchmaker behin...

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Andrew reveals five of his own watches in a Media Watch Death Match against Josh from Watchonista (and gets a slapping) Time+Tide
Breitling Apr 13, 2020

Andrew reveals five of his own watches in a Media Watch Death Match against Josh from Watchonista (and gets a slapping)

It started with an invitation to join Watchonista’s ‘Home Time Live’, a new series on Instagram that takes followers into the homes of the industry’s leaders and luminaries for an intimate interview. Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari. Max Büsser of MB&F;. And now, a Happy Hour version of the usual … ContinuedThe post Andrew reveals five of his own watches in a Media Watch Death Match against Josh from Watchonista (and gets a slapping) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed] SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Gerald Genta Ulysse Nardin Mar 3, 2020

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]

Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...

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Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator by Alain Silberstein (With Live Photos) SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Oct 14, 2019

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator by Alain Silberstein (With Live Photos)

Louis Erard has been around for some 90 years, but for much of that time the brand produced watches for other labels. A decade ago, shortly after new owners took over, Louis Erard began to move slightly upmarket with mechanical watches featuring proprietary modules. But most of its designs were plain or derivative. And so Louis Erard could have been just another brand making mostly anonymous looking watches. But recently Louis Erard recruited the talented Manuel Emch – best known for reviving Jaquet Droz and then running RJ-Romain Jerome until 2017 – as an advisor and suddenly things have brightened up – literally. Louis Erard has just announced the Alain Silberstein Regulator, a surprisingly affordable wristwatch created by the watch designer famed for his whimsical, Bauhaus-inspired style – captured here in photos taken by a Swiss collector for SJX (scroll to the bottom to read my thoughts on the watch after seeing them shortly after this was published). Since Mr Silberstein’s eponymous company went bust in 2012, he has created watches for MB&F; and RJ-Romain Jerome. Despite the diversity of the brands he has worked with, Mr Silberstein versatile yet distinctive style manages to ease into each brand’s house style. Illustrating the magic of Mr Silberstein’s creativity, the new watch is based on one of Louis Erard’s signature models, the Excellence Regulator, which is ordinarily available with a grained or guilloche silver dial featuring Roman numera...

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Introducing the Hasta la Vista Revolver 8-Day Table Clock SJX Watches
Chanel Oct 10, 2019

Introducing the Hasta la Vista Revolver 8-Day Table Clock

A recent startup dedicated to creating unusual objects, The Unnamed Society makes its debut with a table clock shaped like the Colt Bisley Model revolver of the early 20th century. The clock is produced by L’Epee 1839, the Swiss clockmaker that is responsible for practically all of the unconventional and avant-garde mechanical clocks of recent years, most famously those designed by MB&F; but also Chanel. But it’s undoubtedly the success of MB&F;’s sci-fi clocks that have compelled various brands, old and new, to develop their own L’Epee 1839 clocks. Named Hasta la Vista, “goodbye” in Spanish, the clock is the shape and size of an actual revolver, measuring 350mm or just under 14 inches long. It’s made of steel and palladium-plated brass, and can be mounted on its accompanying base either via the grip or the barrel. Pictured here with the grip made of horn from the bighorn sheep, as well as engraving on the frame Mechanically it is identical to the 8-day clocks L’Epee 1839 has produced in other shapes and sizes. The time is indicated by two revolving cylinders – one each for the hours and minutes – that take the shape of the rear section of the pistol frame. The escapement, wheel train and mainspring are where the cylinder (which contains the bullets) would be. Winding is accomplished by a key that’s inserted into the end of the barrel. Though it’s a limited edition of 50, each clock can be customised with a variety of options offered for the g...

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Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune SJX Watches
Hermes Chronode conceived Oct 8, 2019

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...

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Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold Sep 13, 2019

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists

The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....

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Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Jul 9, 2019

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch

While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...

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Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux SJX Watches
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Affordable Jul 4, 2019

Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux

Jean-François Mojon, founder of complications specialist Chronode, has a client list that reads like a who’s who of independent watchmaking: from establishment names Hermès and MB&F; to revived brands like Urban Jurgensen. His latest creation, however, is one of the most affordable to date. Constructed for Trilobe, a start-up founded just three years ago by former banker Gautier Massonneau. The brand’s first collection, Les Matinaux – “The Morning” in English – derives its name from a poem written by French author René Char.  Novelty aside Built at Chronode’s Le Locle facility, Les Matinaux is designed to subvert traditional time-telling. Instead of conventional fixed indices and moving hands, the hands, or rather pointers, are fixed but the markers – on three separate chapter rings for the hours, minutes and seconds – are constantly in motion, and rotate counter-clockwise to boot. The concept is not entirely new, of course. This type of time display is most often used on digital-style dials with numerals shown either in a single line or within a window, as on the De Bethune Dream Watch 5. Affordable brands have done the same with quartz movements, including Klokers, which is sadly now defunct, as well as Lip with its Mythic Jump Hour Watch. In contrast, Les Matinaux does not have its indicators arranged in a linear manner. Instead, the trio of trefoils – trilobe is French for trefoil – seem casually scattered across the dial, so i...

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