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First Look – Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic, Claimed to be the World’s First Multicoloured Ceramic Monochrome
Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic Claimed Feb 17, 2025

First Look – Hublot Unveils Magic Ceramic, Claimed to be the World’s First Multicoloured Ceramic

When it comes to ceramic watches, Hublot has, over the years, managed to be one of the most creative brands by achieving cases and parts in the brightest possible colours imaginable (green, orange, light blue, yellow, sand…) Obtaining strong colours on ceramic is more difficult than many imagine, the base material – ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide […]

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Goes Upmarket Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Feb 14, 2025

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Guide

After a relatively short time in the international market — and an even shorter time as a truly independent brand rather than an elevated product family — Grand Seiko has indisputably come into its own as a top-tier luxury watchmaker. Despite the inescapable fact that it still shares ownership and an industrial base with the parent Seiko brand, Grand Seiko has successfully put distance between its high-end output and Seiko’s more accessible, mass-market offerings. In fact, one could argue that enthusiasts and collectors have largely pigeonholed Grand Seiko as the luxurious, elegant dress watch brand and “Regular” Seiko as the sports- and tool-watch brand. But this perception would not be entirely accurate. Grand Seiko makes its own fair share of sporty timepieces with robustly built cases, less-than-modest case dimensions, and practical functions and complications, despite packaging all of these attributes into timepieces that are distinctly more luxurious — and accordingly more pricey — than their Seiko counterparts. Most of these watches fall within the aptly named Sport collection, which made its official debut in 2017, the same year that Grand Seiko established itself as its own brand.  The roots of the Sport family DNA reach back significantly further — starting in 1998, with the launch of the Caliber 9S5 inside the first automatic Grand Seiko in more than 20 years, and continuing through the introduction of the first Grand Seiko model with a GMT func...

Introducing – Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed 62GS Watches, Including a New, Smaller Size Monochrome
Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed Feb 14, 2025

Introducing – Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed 62GS Watches, Including a New, Smaller Size

Grand Seiko anticipates the cherry blossom season in Japan – Sakura-Kakushi – with three models from its Heritage collection inspired by the annual blooming. Flaunting textured dials, one of Grand Seiko’s fortes, the new references respond to the current demand for more compact case sizes. Inspired by the design language laid down by Seiko’s first […]

Why This $20 Casio Forester Is Watch-Snob Approved Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Feb 13, 2025

Why This $20 Casio Forester Is Watch-Snob Approved

I will admit to being fairly hard to please when it comes to my watches. After a decade in watch media and several more years as an enthusiast, I’ve seen and handled just about every type and brand of watch out there, so, yeah, one gets a little jaded. But every now and then a watch comes along that is truly appealing with a price that isn’t accessible or affordable but actually just cheap. This Casio Forester is such a watch. This article contains no affiliate links or commission. Amidst the countless tributes to late U.S. President Jimmy Carter a few weeks ago, I noticed a photo I had never seen before in which he was wearing an ana-digi watch. After some sleuthing I learned it was a Casio Forester FT600WB-5BV, a watch I have never really thought about or even worn. Still I was intrigued by its Presidential provenance and got to Googling and, while the ana-digi seems to be discontinued, I was even more pleased to see a very attractive contemporary Casio Forester listed at just around $20 at several sellers including Amazon and Walmart. So I said, “What the hell?” and bought the FT500WC-3BVCF, which comes in a black and forest green colorway. I was tempted by the other two offerings as well: the all-black FT500WC-1BVCF and the brown/tan FT500WC-5BVCF. I’ll be honest and say my expectations were pretty low. I mean, we’re talking about a $20 watch in a resin case. Well, to my surprise, I kind of fell in love with it as soon as I opened up the packaging. The qual...

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Feb 12, 2025

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi”

In the great Grand Seiko tradition, the horological year starts early. We already covered the brand’s first releases of 2025 on January 31st, and Mike wrote about another on February 3rd. Now, less than two weeks into the month, Grand Seiko treats us to one more delight. Today, the brand announces the wonderful SBGH368 “Sakura […] Visit Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” to read the full article.

Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster 321 Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy

Back in early 2019, Omega announced the comeback of the legendary Calibre 321 – or at least a faithful recreation of the movement that powered the brand’s emblematic Speedmaster from its introduction in 1957 until around 1968, when the brand switched to the more reliable Calibre 861. The first watch with this historic movement inside […]

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin

Bucherer, one of the world’s oldest and most esteemed watch retailers, now owned by Rolex, has long been a leader in the industry, and for a few years, offers its customers exclusive access to limited-edition timepieces created in collaboration with renowned partner brands. For years, collectors and enthusiasts have enjoyed unique adaptations of existing models, […]

Looking To Buy A Ceramic Watch? Here Are The Benefits And Potential Downsides Fratello
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF Feb 8, 2025

Looking To Buy A Ceramic Watch? Here Are The Benefits And Potential Downsides

Ceramic is a material that has been used in watches for decades. It comes with some significant advantages over more traditional stainless steel. However, there are also a couple of issues to consider. Recently, I spent a significant amount of time with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (ref. IW3281-02). This is a modern interpretation […] Visit Looking To Buy A Ceramic Watch? Here Are The Benefits And Potential Downsides to read the full article.

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Feb 7, 2025

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon

On its face, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Date in CFT carbon is familiar. The aesthetic is the oversized, stylised, and modern look that defines the Royal Oak Concept (ROC), with aggressive pusher guards and a complex, open-worked dial. And this latest version has the added feature of a carbon composite case produced via Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that adds both colour and luminosity to the material. But the ROC Split-Seconds is more than just another Royal Oak chronograph because of the cal. 4407 inside. Launched in the 2023 titanium model, the is a latest-generation in-house movement and a notably innovative rattrapante calibre. The ingenuity of the movement lies in the fact that is both a traditional, integrated split-seconds chronograph and self-winding – a feat achieved with an elegant and patented automatic mechanism. Initial thoughts The very first Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite of 2002 was an enormous, heavy watch. Since then, the design of the ROC has been refined to become more wearable, and more lightweight thanks to new materials. The ROC Split-Seconds is perhaps the most wearable to date. Even though it’s a big watch, it doesn’t actually feel that large; the curved, tonneau-like form clings to the wrist well. The look is typical ROC – technical, aggressive, and modern. While I like the look, it is a little over the top. The style is now; I am not sure how it will age. Visuals aside, the ROC Split-Seconds is int...

Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition Fratello
Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Feb 6, 2025

Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition

Here’s one from out of the blue! With all our expectations for 2025, we did not foresee a Baltic Hermétique motocross edition, but here we are. More specifically, the Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition celebrates a new collaboration between the young Parisian brand and a legendary annual enduro event. If you move quickly, you […] Visit Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series Monochrome
Seiko Adds Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – Seiko Adds a new Enamel SPB495 to the Presage Craftsmanship Series

Prospex, King Seiko, 5 Sports and, of course, Presage… There are so many different sub-collections within Seiko’s portfolio but it’s rather easy to understand what the Presage collection stands for; elegance and classicism. This statement is even more meaningful when it comes to the Presage Craftsmanship Series, a collection of watches seen as the best […]

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2025

MKII Updates the Classic Fulcrum with a Smaller Case and Thoughtful Details

Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure.  With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future Monochrome
Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl Feb 3, 2025

Just Because – Patek Philippe Discontinues Multiple Models Incl. the Nautilus Moonphase 5712A, and Some Predictions for its Future

Models come and go from brands’ portfolios. There’s nothing extraordinary in this, it’s just standard practice and lifecycle management. Rolex, for example, did it last year with the Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (not necessarily a bad idea…) Patek Philippe is no stranger to this concept, as we’ve seen in the past – basically every year, […]

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Grand Seiko’s Feb 3, 2025

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 1, 2025

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?