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El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
LVMH Watches

TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.

Gallery · Guide
Zenith Gallery Zenith

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.

Icon · Guide
El Primero Zenith

The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command Hodinkee
Hamilton 6B Mark XI May 15, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command

Scorekeeping last week: the only watch of the four highlighted to have sold is that bonkers purple-dialed Sub from Tropical Watch; the Patek 3970, the Omega 145.022BA, and the Movado Polyplan all remain available. Deep breaths, everyone: another week's on the books. Auction season's in full swing, and there are wild results all over the place, but let's take a little breather here, together, and look at less dizzyingly priced goodies. Strays Perhaps you've found yourself of late—coincidentally!—more curious than usual about pocket watches. While Mark's the Official Pocket Watch Tsar, I've always liked them, and fight the urge most weeks to include any here. No more! This week, there's this extraordinary, anonymous jump-hour pocket watch that is almost unfairly beautiful for being 200 years old. If that doesn't float your boat, you have the relatively uncommon opportunity to nab a Thomas Engel Tourbillon (if the name Thomas Engel doesn't register, gird your ego before digging in—compared with Professor Engel, we're all pathetic underachievers).  It doesn't seem reasonable that any of us should be able to purchase a gold Breguet pocket watch with hour and quarter repeater from 1795—insert Harrison Ford growling "It belongs in a museum!"—and yet you can do just that right here. If, however, you wish to remain yoked to the tyranny of telling time on your wrist, here's a Speedmaster Racing Dial which, yes, isn't exactly in showroom condition, but they're uncommon eno...

Discovering The Magic Of The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical May 13, 2026

Discovering The Magic Of The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical

If you are a regular Fratello reader, it will come as no surprise that I am a Zenith fan. The brand’s Chronomaster Revival A384 is my current favorite watch. There is nothing out there like it, and every time I put it on my wrist, I feel a mix of excitement and reassurance about how […] Visit Discovering The Magic Of The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces May 1, 2026

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina

Zenith has launched the latest version of their popular Chronomaster Revival A384, a line that takes the iconic case of the A384 and often plays with color and materials as a platform for a modern El Primero movement. The A384, for me, has always been the most interesting of the Zenith heritage releases. It feels truly transported from another time, fully intact, largely thanks to the iconic ladder bracelet that we often see included with these references (more on that in a minute). This particular release really leans into a very specific vintage look, and I imagine will be warmly welcomed by modern Zenith enthusiasts who appreciate and collect vintage Zenith as well.  The story here, clearly, is the brown used as an accent color to evoke natural patina that vintage watch collectors often prize over perfectly preserved watches. A so-called “tropical” dial occurs over a long stretch of time when a watch is exposed to the outside world, the sun’s rays slowly fading the color present in the original dial. This will often result in a brown or tan color to emerge from black paint, which is particularly noticeable on chronographs with black subdials, which is what Zenith is going for here. But the “tropical” effect can, in theory, be applied to any color, and change blues, greens, and reds in unexpected ways.  Here we have a white dial with a very subtle grain and brown subdials at 3, 6, and 9, for the chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, res...

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Novelties Why Apr 17, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On Impressions of Two New Zenith G.F.J. Novelties

Why is it that there are some watches we just kind of forget about? I think we’ve all experienced this right? We encounter a watch that really works, feels special, rave about to other collectors and, if you’re able, maybe even think about how you might acquire one (side note: that is definitely not the situation I find myself in with respect to the watches we’ll be discussing here).  For whatever reason, the Zenith G.F.J. found itself in that category for me. Last year, when I saw the first G.F.J., I think I probably verbalized to someone that it was the best thing I saw at Watches & Wonders 2025. I thought about it for weeks. I considered how it felt so much more handmade and specialized than any of the other new Zenith watches I’ve seen, which were mostly reminders that Zenith is a huge brand that needs to cast a wide net. And that’s the case again this year. The headline release for the brand this year is a new series of Chronomaster Sport references with skeleton dials. They are very nice watches, but tread familiar ground. We’ve seen countless iterations of the Chronomaster Sport at this point, and transitioning to skeleton dials after a period of time is part of the Zenith playbook.  The G.F.J. collection, by contrast, feels unpredictable and outside the bounds of the usual Zenith strategy. These are high end watches that take advantage of exotic materials and precious metals, and have more in common with many haute horlogerie indies, at least on the s...

Introducing - The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Now Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial

The Chronomaster Sport already has most of what you expect from a robust, modern sports chronograph, most often seen in stainless steel with a ceramic bezel. Beating inside is Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero movement, one of the best-known high-beat chronograph calibres out there. Alongside the full steel versions, Zenith has also pushed this design a […]

Zenith debuts a new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton range with a quiet yet major update Time+Tide
Zenith debuts Apr 16, 2026

Zenith debuts a new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton range with a quiet yet major update

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport has had quite a journey since it launched in 2021. What started as a single stainless steel reference with a black ceramic bezel - and yes, we know what watch that immediately reminded people of - has since grown into one of the more expansive and genuinely adventurous collections in the … ContinuedThe post Zenith debuts a new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton range with a quiet yet major update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith Deployant
Zenith DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Zenith, and had our hands-on with the Zenith new releases in WWG26. First an update to the G.F.J which was released last year. This year, it is released in yellow gold with a bloodstone dial and the sub-dial is now in a green backed mother of pearl. But my pick is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

First Look - The New Zenith G.F.J. in Tantalum and Yellow Gold, Continuing the Legacy of the Calibre 135 Monochrome
Zenith G.F.J Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The New Zenith G.F.J. in Tantalum and Yellow Gold, Continuing the Legacy of the Calibre 135

When Zenith brought back the legendary Calibre 135 last year in the G.F.J. collection, it was a tribute to its 160-year history. Also, it signalled the return of one of the most celebrated chronometer movements. Now, the brand expands the collection with two new G.F.J interpretations: a tantalum edition with an onyx dial and diamonds, […]

First Look - Zenith’s High-Beat Heart Exposed on the New Chronomaster Sport Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith s High-Beat Heart Exposed Apr 14, 2026

First Look - Zenith’s High-Beat Heart Exposed on the New Chronomaster Sport Skeleton

When Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, the message was clear: the El Primero was entering a new, sportier chapter rather than living off 1969 nostalgia. Exploiting the full potential of the calibre 3600’s 5Hz frequency, the 1/10th-of-a-second readings put the Chronomaster Sport luxury sports watch in a class of its own. The latest […]

Rolex Enamels the Daytona SJX Watches
Zenith powered Daytonas Apr 14, 2026

Rolex Enamels the Daytona

This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial. Initial thoughts Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter - it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain. Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix.  The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial - a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general. What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configurat...

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone And A New Skeleton Collection With An Updated Clasp Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone And A New Skeleton Collection With An Updated Clasp

For 2026, Zenith celebrates five years of one of its defining modern watches. Since its 2021 debut, the Chronomaster Sport has pushed the El Primero automatic chronograph into a new era. Its contemporary, sporty design has also made it a perfect platform for experimentation. This year, Zenith leans into that potential with its most avant-garde […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone And A New Skeleton Collection With An Updated Clasp to read the full article.

Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions Fratello
Zenith Turns Apr 13, 2026

Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions

Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. […] Visit Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions to read the full article.

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection SJX Watches
Zenith Expands G.F.J Caliber 135 Apr 13, 2026

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection

After introducing the G.F.J. Caliber 135 last year, Zenith has expanded the line with two new models and created a new collection in the process. Following closely in the footsteps of the platinum debut model, the new additions are dressed in 18k yellow gold and tantalum, with richly furnished natural stone dials. The cal. 135 returns - now finished in a more traditional manner - boasting impressive performance that does justice to the movement’s enviable competition record. Initial thoughts The return of the legendary cal. 135 was something I always hoped I’d see, but never thought I would. But in a moment akin to Omega’s recreation of the famed cal. 321 chronograph, Zenith brought back one of the most successful observatory calibres in history. The movement made its return last year in grand style to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, well built but priced well above Zenith’s typical domain. The style was also an acquired taste, with a hand-guilloche chapter ring, with a matching pattern machined into the movement bridges. The dial treatment was one thing, but the finishing of the movement arguably dulled what could have been an ascendant moment. For 2026, two new dial configurations - bloodstone and onyx - join what can now be called an official collection, both equally as luxe as the model’s blue debut. Fortunately, when it comes to the cal. 135, Zenith left the brick-style bridge finishing behind, opting for more ordinary - but more attractive ...

Watches & Wonders: Zenith Expands the Chronomaster Sport Line with New Skeleton References, Plus a Two-Tone Version with MOP Dial, and a New Micro-Adjustable Clasp Worn & Wound
Zenith Expands Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Zenith Expands the Chronomaster Sport Line with New Skeleton References, Plus a Two-Tone Version with MOP Dial, and a New Micro-Adjustable Clasp

Zenith has released five new references under the Chronomaster Sport umbrella, most notably with four skeletonized versions of the design, as well as a dressier two-tone option. To understand the new skeletonized editions, it’s probably best to start at the beginning. When Zenith introduced the El Primero in 1969, it launched what is widely regarded as the world’s first automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph caliber, a movement that has remained central to the brand’s identity ever since. The Chronomaster collection has long carried that legacy forward, and with this new series of skeletonized watches, Zenith brings that movement further to the forefront. All of the skeleton models run on the El Primero 3600SK, the openworked version of Zenith’s high-frequency automatic chronograph. Like the standard El Primero 3600, it beats at 5 Hz, which allows the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every 10 seconds and display 1/10th of a second directly off the bezel. The movement also offers a 60-hour power reserve, while the open dial and caseback give a clear view of the column wheel, horizontal clutch, and star-shaped rotor. All come in the now familiar 41mm Chronomaster Sport case. In regards to the design of the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton models, the biggest visual shift comes from the opened-up dial. The collection includes two stainless steel versions: one with a black ceramic bezel and the signature grey, anthracite, and blue tri-color c...

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 Fratello
Zenith Defy Revival A3643 During Mar 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643

During LVMH Watch Week in Milan, I was especially interested in the new Zenith releases. It is no secret that I love Zenith. The brand has managed to amaze me time and again with releases that combine the best in watch design with its legendary calibers. To my surprise, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 to read the full article.

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only SJX Watches
Zenith Elite automatic that’s been Mar 2, 2026

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only

Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...