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Reference · Guide
All Tudor Black Bay References Tudor

Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
Exclusive · Guide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee": A Smaller Chrono with a Lot to Say

Tudor finally gets the Black Bay Chrono down to 39mm, and the first version out of the gate wears a yellow-and-black "Bumblebee" dial. Here's what changes, what it costs, and why the size matters more than the colour.
Icon · Guide
Black Bay Tudor

The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Tudor Black Bay 58 Tudor

39 mm × 11.9 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. MT5402
Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026 Hodinkee
Baltic Sep 30, 2026

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026

Walking through the halls of the Meridian Arts Center in Toronto, through the 90-ish brands assembled for the event by Jason Hutton and his team, it's hard to believe the Toronto Timepiece Show is only in its third edition. The show feels far more established than you'd expect from what is still a relatively nascent endeavor. It's an impressive feat, made all the more impressive by the explosion of Hutton's Timepiece Shows across Canada. Besides Toronto, this year's Timepiece Show made stops in Vancouver and — for the first time — Montréal. But Toronto is the original, and so I'm glad to have finally made it up to the Great White North to see what it's all about. This is what these shows are all about — finding moments to connect with other enthusiasts. Although, checking out the watches — like the latest offerings from Baltic — is important too. If you're not familiar with the concept, the Toronto Timepiece Show is one of several open-to-the-public watch fairs that have become core gathering points for enthusiasts around the world in recent years. Having now seen the Toronto Timepiece Show in person, I'm also convinced it's not one to miss. So, without further interruption, below is a look at just some of the watches, people, and moments I saw at 2026's edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show (and if you want to check out some of last year's show, you can see James's coverage here) Tudor Black Bay 54 The iconic Seiko Alpinist. Early Seamaster Professional 300M wi...

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The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger SJX Watches
Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper Sep 1, 2026

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger

A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026] Hodinkee
Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Aug 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026]

Earlier this week, we spiced things up a little by taking Hodinkee Happy Hour uptown to the Vandy Club. Before heading to the event space, guests arrived at the Watches of Switzerland One Vanderbilt showroom, where they were greeted by our Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, and other members of the Hodinkee team. This gave several attendees the chance to be featured in a quick Wrist Check we filmed, which you can check out now on the Hodinkee Instagram. It was our first time hosting at One Vanderbilt, but the same energy and enthusiasm quickly filled the room (and outdoor terrace). Hors d'oeuvres—and plenty of watches—made the rounds as an evening of great conversation unfolded. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night. If you made it out, thanks for coming. For anyone who couldn't make it, be sure to keep an eye here on the site and on the Hodinkee Instagram for more information, as we will be announcing our next one soon! Left, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys admiring an attendee's 2002 Omega Seamaster Professional Chrono Diver. Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Édition. A closer look. A 42mm Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale MN21 in titanium. A Rolex Oyster Precision Reference 6426. The Hermès H08 Limited Edition for Hodinkee. Left, Hodinkee Head of Video David Aujero chatting with chef Jayesh Kumar. From top to bottom: the Tudor Black Bay 58 Nike employee edition with a custom band and an Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary. A closer look at the Omega Sp...

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Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review WatchRider
Zenith El Primero A384 Introduced Aug 1, 2026

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review

In my opinion, panda watches are probably the most beautiful and classic watch designs ever made, which explains why I own around ten of them. In this article, we are looking at two models from Casio that I own: the Edifice EFB-730D-7AV on a stainless steel bracelet, that has a clean silver dial with black subdials, and the Edifice EFB-730L-7AV on a brown leather strap, but with a more vintage off-white dial and orange accents. And to make this even more interesting I will compare them with my Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda M79360N-0002. In the following sections, I will cover what I like, what I do not like, or rather what I would like to see in future versions, whether these watches feel premium, and two questions you probably have in mind: why I own both and whether I am going to sell them. Panda Design, Case Size and Comfort The panda dial is clearly the main attraction, but what makes these Casio models stand out from the many affordable panda chronographs is the shape of the case. Instead of using the familiar round design seen on watches such as the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, the EFB-730 has a tonneau shape that immediately reminded me of the legendary Zenith El Primero A384. Introduced in 1969, the A384 combined a distinctive tonneau-shaped case (often referred to as a barrel shape) with a white dial, three black chronograph counters and a date window positioned between four and five o’clock. The modern A384 Revival faithfully recreates that design with a 37 mm tonnea...

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Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies Worn & Wound
Tudor Jul 21, 2026

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from being in the watch industry, it’s that you never know when you’ll have the opportunity to do something unique, and that saying “yes” to something without having all of the details might result in a rare, or even once in a lifetime experience. With that in mind, let me set the stage for how I found myself 1,000 feet above Manhattan in a 1958 DC-6B, piloted by The Flying Bulls. Early this month, I received a rather vague invitation to a ”Red Bull Flying Bulls thing with Tudor” immediately after returning from our Chicago Windup Watch Fair, and that it “involves a very early morning flight on a very old plane”. While I’d usually ask a million questions and try to get every detail that I could before committing to something, in the interest of being just a touch more spontaneous, I couldn’t respond “I’m intrigued, count me in” fast enough.  As we got closer to the event, I’d come to learn that the “old plane” in question was a beautifully restored 1958 DC-6B and the “very early morning” meant arriving at the Meatpacking Tudor Boutique at 7 AM. Once everyone arrived, our small crew began heading up to White Plains FBO, which I later learned was named Million Air. Not long into the ride, we were presented with a briefcase of loaner watches, ranging from the Tudor Ranger in 36mm “Dune” and 39mm “Black”, or the Black Bay 58 GMT on either the new five link bracelet or classic rubber strap. While...

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Hands On: Tudor Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Monarch Tudor marks Jun 18, 2026

Hands On: Tudor Monarch

Tudor marks its 100th birthday by reviving the Monarch with a completely new look — one that captures the spirit of the brand’s founding decade, reinterpreted for the 21st century. The Monarch manages to be both sporty and dressy, with a distinctive design and upmarket build that proves Tudor has aspirations beyond the Black Bay. Initial thoughts Tudor turns 100 stronger than it’s ever been. The brand that once trafficked in cheaper versions of Rolex models can now bring compelling products like this to market with impressive regularity. That said, the brand tends to be at its best when it comes to sports watches like the Black Bay — what Tudor calls its ‘classic watches’ have had less market impact. In this context, the Monarch represents a major step forward for Tudor. It’s dressy without looking derivative, and robust enough for everyday wear. In short, the Monarch rules. Image – Tudor Much of Tudor’s current collection takes heavy inspiration from its deep back catalogue. That isn’t the case for the Monarch, which shares nothing with the 1990s and 2000s Monarchs save for the name and shield at 12 o’clock. Instead, the Monarch’s design celebrates the earliest years of Tudor — the 1920s — which was a transitional period in which wristwatch production had not yet equalled that of pocket watches. Watchmakers at the time weren’t yet sure what kinds of wristwatches people wanted, and the era is marked by expressive and experimental designs. Beca...

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It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 Fratello
Tudor s Best Release Jun 10, 2026

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026

Most watch enthusiasts would agree that Tudor’s introductions during Watches and Wonders 2026 were not very surprising, apart from the Monarch and maybe the black ceramic Black Bay. Overall, it was a year of updates, and they tend to be less exciting. Just as a reminder, we got a new dial color for the Black […] Visit It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 to read the full article.

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026] Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref 4500V Rolex Jun 3, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]

Last week, we brought back the second edition of what will start to become a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Watches of Switzerland SoHo was once again the venue, and Editor-in-Chief James Stacey hosted a very fun evening. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of June. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Patek Philippe 5940J. Zenith Sporto. Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36. Casio G-Shock x Hender Scheme DW-5900UD-1. Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5180/1R-001 18K Skeleton. C by Romain Gauthier and a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in White Gold.  Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Rolex Land-Dweller 36 A nice variety of local beverages were on offer from Grotta. Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A. Tudor Black Bay 58 and a Rolex-GMT Master II "Batman". Timex Ironman, Tudor Pelagos, Breitling Aerospace. Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726A. Dennison Dual Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface, Univeral Genève FS, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sinn T50. Hodinkee's Editor-in-Chief James Stacey serving pizza and talking watches.  Rolex Oyster Perpetual.  Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V. Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570. Hodinkee's TanTan Wang and Pedro Vidal. Thanks to Upside Pizza for the pizza. Rolex Submariner, Jaeger-L...

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The Longines Legend Diver 59 is Bigger and Better SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver 59 May 19, 2026

The Longines Legend Diver 59 is Bigger and Better

Longines is carrying momentum into the summer after the well-received launch of the refreshed Hydroconquest line. The brand hopes to continue that winning streak with a nipped and tucked 42 mm Legend Diver 59. As the name suggests, the LLD 59 references the 42 mm ref. 7042 launched in 1959, and offers a different take on the dive watch that gives it a distinct character compared to many Submariner-inspired peers. Initial thoughts The original LLD of 2007 was a pioneer of the now-common practice of reissuing historical models. While faux patina and period-correct details seem to be everywhere today, they seemed novel back then. Many brands followed — quickly enough to suggest concurrent development — but the launch of the LLD helped usher in a design trend that still dominates the industry. The LLD 59 offers a straightforward value proposition — a high-fidelity historical design, an advanced proprietary calibre, and an affordable price of US$4,100. The ‘Super Compressor’-style case — characterised by its dual crowns and internal rotating bezel — offers an alternative perspective on the dive watch compared to category mainstays like the Tudor Black Bay. For collectors and enthusiasts troubled by the notion that a Black Bay might been perceived as a ‘poor man’s Submariner’, the LLD is a similarly priced and similarly equipped vintage-inspired diver with an entirely different look. While Tudor might be the most obvious point of reference, the LLD 59 will li...

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Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59 Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver 59 Someday May 18, 2026

Introducing the Longines Legend Diver 59

Someday, when the history of the contemporary vintage inspired sports watch is written, the Longines Legend Diver will need an entire chapter devoted to it. It’s an incredibly important watch not just in this very specific genre (which at times over the last decade or so has been the most important segment in watchmaking) but in the annals of modern watch history. I sometimes think its influence is not quite given enough credit as it is often compared and lumped in with the Tudor Black Bay, but the Legend Diver is very much its own thing and set a course for Longines upon its introduction that the brand is still very much following to this day.  There have been a number of iterations on the original Legend Diver format over the years, including limited editions and a very well received line of smaller, more compact Legend Divers in easy to wear 39mm cases. The latest Legend Diver, the Legend Diver 59, arrives today and feels like a return to the original reissue of the iconic diver in a number of ways.  The most notable thing about the Legend Diver 59 (besides the name, which will likely invite even more comparisons, and probably some memes, comparing the watch to various numbered Tudor Black Bays) is the watch’s size. The case here measures 42mm, the same as the original reissue of the Legend Diver, as well as the actual original Legend Diver, which first appeared in, you guessed it, 1959. When I saw this watch in person at a Longines preview event in Dallas earlier...

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Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always May 4, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives May 1, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. After last week’s list of Tudor Black Bay alternatives, we’ll move on to one of the watch world’s biggest icons. It’s time to check out our five favorite alternatives to the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo.” This watch is widely regarded as having spawned a new genre in 1972, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

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Is Tudor’s Revamped Royal Collection Actually their Best Watches & Wonders Release? Worn & Wound
Tudor s Revamped Royal Collection Apr 17, 2026

Is Tudor’s Revamped Royal Collection Actually their Best Watches & Wonders Release?

As is always the case with Tudor, it seems that the internet is divided on their major new Watches & Wonders releases in the days after their unveiling. But while comments are volleyed back and forth on whether the of the Black Bay 54 Blue is actually too purple, or the Monarch should have been smaller, one new release that actually might be kind of perfect is going under the radar.  Ok, “perfect” could be overstating it, but the newly relaunched Tudor Royal really impressed me. If there’s a “most improved” award to be handed out to a collection, the Royal might grab it.  There are three sizes, 30mm, 36mm, and 40mm, all with manufacture calibers for the first time in the collection. The 40mm Royal has a day-date indication that is similar (identical, really) to the execution of the day-date on the Rolex Day-Date. All of the movements (MT5201, MT5412 and MT5633) are chronometer certified.  Aesthetically, these are integrated bracelet sports watches that veer more toward the elegant end of the sports watch spectrum. Long a staple for Tudor in the Asian market, they’re looking to expand the Royal’s reach this year with some very noticeable finishing improvements. The bezel in particular is very nicely executed, with sharp notches and a very high polish that works particularly well on the two tone models, where it is rendered in gold.  I think another factor working in Tudor’s favor with respect to the Royal is the current broad acceptance of smaller watche...

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The Best Tudor Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Watches Feb 12, 2026

The Best Tudor Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

What are the best Tudor watches in the current lineup? It really depends on what type of watch ticks all the stylistic boxes for you - whether it’s a classic diver, a dual-time travel companion, or a racetrack-ready chronograph; a sturdy, outdoorsy timekeeper you can wear on a nature hike, or something elegant and uncomplicated that you can wear to the symphony. Using as our starting point some of the style categories in which Tudor's parent brand Rolex has excelled, here we attempt to home in on the best Tudor watches for each taste. [toc-section heading="For The Casually Stylish Diver"] Tudor’s answer to big brother Rolex’s megapopular Submariner series is relatively easy to spot. The Black Bay collection is the undisputed flagship of the 21st-century Tudor lineup and has played a huge role in Tudor stepping out from under Rolex’s substantial shadow to establish an impressive identity all its own. Improbably, It did so by deftly combining elements from earlier Tudor dive watches, most of which were clearly inspired by the Rolex dive watches that preceded them to market. The so-called “snowflake” hour hand that is so emblematic now to the Black Bay family was drawn from the Tudor Submariner Ref. 7016 from 1969 that was famously supplied to the French Navy, whose divers found two distinctly different hands to be beneficial in reading the time underwater.) The large screw-down crown, with engraved Tudor rose emblem, was introduced on the 1958 "Big Crown" model...

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My Father’s Longines HydroConquest GMT, Two Years On (Owner’s Perspective) WatchAdvice
Longines HydroConquest GMT Two Years Dec 13, 2025

My Father’s Longines HydroConquest GMT, Two Years On (Owner’s Perspective)

The Longines HydroConquest GMT is one of Longines’ most modern references, but has it stood up to two years’ worth of my father’s ownership standards? Let’s ask him! Purchasing Expectations: A utilitarian watch, fit for my dad’s lifestyle Clever micro-adjustment system A Flyer-style GMT, helpful for international travel Ownership Reality: Some design elements we disagree with Durability of the rubber strap Can you see the date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When it comes to dive watches, very few can genuinely be called underrated. It’s a thoroughly complete subgenre of horology, filled with some of the most iconic collections in watchmaking history. Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, Seamaster, Aquaracer, Black Bay… these are just a few names that define the dive watch enthusiast’s vocabulary. But more often than not, the price-to-performance ratio is heavily skewed. These collections carry not only cultural weight but a sense of luxury as well, and their prices rarely reflect their intended purpose. Tangentially, I told a friend earlier this year that I believed Submariners are the most mistreated watches in history: built to withstand extreme pressures, yet typically left to gather dust in a safe. Diving Into The New Longines Hydroconquest GMT 43mm One dive watch that avoids this fate is the Longines HydroConquest. Luxurious yet fairly priced, high-performance without pretension, it has consis...

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Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10 Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 11, 2025

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10

Albishorn is a brand based on one of the most tantalizing concepts that we’ve come across: vintage watches that never existed. I’ve thought about this conceit quite a bit since the brand was launched a few years ago. In some ways, it’s not so different on the surface from any other “vintage inspired” watch. The vast majority of them, after all, never existed. The Black Bay, for instance, takes inspiration from a great many vintage Tudor and Rolex watches, but it’s not a one to one recreation of anything – it never actually existed. But Albishorn is different. They place their watches in an imagined reality. Each one is its own “sliding doors” moment brought to life in watch form – a thought experiment about how things might be if they had turned out just a little differently.  The Type 10 is pitched as an imaginary ancestry to the Type 20, a very real watch that just about everyone reading this will be at least somewhat familiar with. Imagining a predecessor to the Type 20 also means imagining the infrastructure to create it, the timeline on which it would have been made, and even design details that might have been improved or altered in the later (and real) watch.  Today, Albishorn releases a new variant of the Type 10, which they’re calling the Type 10 Officer. Like previous Type 10s, this is a monopusher chronograph designed in the language of military issued watches. This one has a white dial, which the brand explains makes more sense for an Of...

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Tudor Scales Down the No-Frills Ranger SJX Watches
Tudor Scales Down Nov 23, 2025

Tudor Scales Down the No-Frills Ranger

One of Tudor’s most affordable models equipped with an in-house movement (the base model costs under CHF3,000), the Ranger is functional watch with a design based on the 1960s model of the same name. Originally available only with a 39 mm case and black dial, the Ranger is now also available in a 36 mm that’s truer to the vintage original. Also new is the unusual “dune white” dial. The pale dial with black markings is a subtle reference to historical sports models with similar dials often nicknamed “albino” by collectors. Initial thoughts The larger Ranger was facelifted in 2022, and though good value, it was a little chunky for the style. And the black dial was traditional, but also a bit plain. The smaller size and beige dial add a bit more vintage flair to the model, which should resonate in particular for those who appreciate such things. The tweaks to the model won’t likely make it a watch with mainstream appeal like the Black Bay, but the Ranger remains a strong proposition at its price. An explorer’s watch The vintage Ranger was Tudor’s equivalent of the Rolex Explorer, and hence shares a similar design. This style has been ported over onto the modern remake. The new “dune white” retains the same style, but with adjustments for the colour. So the hour markers are printed in black, with the luminous markers being dots on the edge of the dial instead. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, except for the size. The steel case is entirely brushed...

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Review: the Hanhart Aquasphere “Ocean Fade” Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Link Oct 30, 2025

Review: the Hanhart Aquasphere “Ocean Fade”

It’s amazing the way some watches don’t make sense until they do. That was absolutely my experience of the Hanhart Aquasphere when it showed up on my desk a few weeks ago. I mean, I love dive watches, but the Aquasphere was something entirely outside my realm of comfort, and I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it. At least, I wasn’t sure what to make of it until I realized something fundamental: I was thinking about the Aquasphere in entirely the wrong context. Sure, on paper, the Aquasphere is a strong addition to the stable of sub $2,000 dive watches on offer today, but in practice, the Aquasphere is nothing like the divers I tend to spend my time with. The Hanhart is a watch that’s big, over-designed, and not at all to my typical taste, but that just may be what I came to like so much about it. In a world where the prevailing trend in dive watches has been to look back into the twentieth century for design inspiration, there’s something fundamentally refreshing about a watch that isn’t meant to compete with the Black Bay even a little. Instead, the Aquasphere evokes a design language born in the ‘90s and perfected in the ‘00s, one that may not entirely appeal to many enthusiasts, but will hit square on for those collectors whose taste was formed by watch billboards of the era, and who find their minds drifting towards watches like the Breitling SuperAvenger or TAG Heuer Link. That does mean that this watch certainly won’t be for everyone, but for the...

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Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? Fratello
Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing Sep 29, 2025

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?

The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.

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Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger Sep 21, 2025

Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic?

It should come as no surprise to those who regularly read my work that I’m a fan of Tudor watches. In fact, to mark a significant personal milestone, I bought a Tudor Black Bay 58 for my 30th birthday. Today, though, we’re looking at a very different watch, the Tudor Heritage Ranger. This is not […] Visit Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? to read the full article.

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Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

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Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More Fratello
Certina Zenith Aquastar Jun 28, 2025

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More

Dive watches are what got me into this hobby. As the proud owner of a Tudor Black Bay 58, I can appreciate as much as anyone the appeal of a good, solid dive watch. Such a timepiece is a good starting point for those just getting into the watch hobby. Why? Well, that’s because it […] Visit Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.

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Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection

For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to.  This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber.  Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Every year May 22, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...

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Tudor Pelagos 39 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Pelagos 39 Review Back May 21, 2025

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review

Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...

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