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Fleurier

Val-de-Travers village; home to Bovet (1822), Parmigiani Fleurier (1996), Chopard L.U.C (1996); Qualité Fleurier birthplace.

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement Worn & Wound
Tissot Classic Dream Now Has Oct 17, 2025

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement

One of my worst traits-according to my husband, my therapist, and the middle school youth pastor-is that I am greedy. Unfortunately, I have to agree. It’s not that I want everything; it’s just that I want choices. Well, luckily for me, dear Reader, Tissot has delivered. Their latest release, the Tissot Classic Dream, powered by the Powermatic 80 movement, now comes in seven new references. For others, this may feel like overkill, but for me? It’s just right. Each of the new Classic Dream models has all the makings of a daily driver. These dress watches clock in at 40mm, but don’t wear large on the wrist. Part of that is thanks to the watch’s proportions: Tissot has given the simple, no-frills dial plenty of room to “breathe,” leaving only the thinnest sliver of stainless steel as the case. Add in a variety of dial colors and metal options-yellow gold PVD, rose gold PVD, blue sunray, black sunray, you name it-and there’s truly something for every style. And if that’s not enough, each watch comes with the option of a leather strap or a bracelet. It’s a Swiss buffet of options, if you ask me. The real star here is the Powermatic 80 movement, powering the Classic Dream series for the first time. As Tissot notes, this makes Swiss automatic watches even more accessible to a broader audience. The Powermatic 80 promises (you guessed it) up to 80 hours of power reserve and consistent performance for all-day, everyday wear, with an average daily precision...

MB&F; Continues their Anniversary Celebration with a Pair of Raffles Worn & Wound
MB&F; Oct 1, 2025

MB&F; Continues their Anniversary Celebration with a Pair of Raffles

In celebration of their 20th anniversary, the self-proclaimed “world’s first horological concept laboratory”, MB&F;, has a slate of special editions to remind the world of their experimental timepieces that push the boundaries of watchmaking (and watch wearing). Named for founder Maximilian Büsser (and friends), the brand’s back-catalog of inventive pieces has been plundered, with a total of 20 limited edition watches to be given away to the lucky few. The catch here is that instead of making the limited editions available commercially, MB&F; will be holding two raffles, each yielding 10 watches to 10 lucky winners.  The first of the two raffles is more exclusive, being open only to “Tribe” members; aka, current owners of MB&F; watches. Becoming a Tribe member requires registering your MB&F; watch, and opens the door to special editions, collectibles, warranty extensions, and other perks. This Tribe-exclusive raffle promises winners one of 10 limited edition LM101 Longhorn pieces. The LM101 is among the most prized “Legacy Machine” watches MB&F; makes, and the Longhorn case is seen infrequently in MB&F;’s catalog, and is perhaps even more sought after. It’s named for its distinctive long lugs, here extending from a 40mm stainless steel case. The colorway is sober silver with black subdials and blue accents on the hands. A caseback inscription on the reverse side reads “Fortune Favors the Bold”.  The second raffle is tied directly to the much more acces...

The 2025 Concours Of Elegance Presented By A. Lange & Söhne Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 11, 2025

The 2025 Concours Of Elegance Presented By A. Lange & Söhne

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to attend the Concours of Elegance at Hampton Court Palace. A. Lange & Söhne sponsors the event, and what an event it was! Don’t worry; we’re not becoming a car magazine here at Fratello, but these gems were too good not to share. Enjoy! I’ve been lucky enough to […] Visit The 2025 Concours Of Elegance Presented By A. Lange & Söhne to read the full article.

Introducing – The Unimatic x Massena LAB Modello Quattro U4S?T?SPW Meteorite Monochrome
Massena Lab Modello Quattro U4S?T?SPW Meteorite Sep 3, 2025

Introducing – The Unimatic x Massena LAB Modello Quattro U4S?T?SPW Meteorite

UNIMATIC and Massena LAB are old friends at this point, and we’ve covered no fewer than five watch collaborations since 2020. The latest Modello Quattro U4S?T?SPW sales are limited to Geneva Watch Days 2025, but those lucky enough to attend and get their hands on one are in for a treat. The watch celebrates NASA’s […]

Hands On With The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite It Aug 27, 2025

Hands On With The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

It was only a matter of time before Zenith added a meteorite dial to the Chronomaster Sport collection, and now, they have! We’ve gone hands-on with it to test it out on launch. What We Love The meteorite dial, obviously! The El Primero movement The versatility of the watch itself What We Don’t The subdials can blend into the grey meteorite dial The bracelet still needs improving Lack of lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Believe it or not, this is the first time I’m officially reviewing the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. And lucky me, it just so happens to be the newly released meteorite dial version. Ok, it’s not that I haven’t worn the Zenith Chronomaster Sport before, I gave my thoughts on the green dial variant post its release at LVMH Watch Week in 2024, and then I subsequently took it on tour with me to New Zealand to see how it holds up as a watch you can travel and holiday with. But I never reviewed it in the true sense of the word, or gave it a rating. Until now. Hot off the press, or should I say, from the Manufacture in Le Locle is the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial Meteorite dials are nothing new, but they do transform the look of a watch. The use of meteorite also elevates the price, too, thanks to the difficulty in working with the rock, not to mention the obvious fact that you’re not just creating ...

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Aug 8, 2025

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch

After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...

Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph In Silver And Ocean Green Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Jul 28, 2025

Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph In Silver And Ocean Green

Time flies when you’re having retro fun, doesn’t it? With an original introduction date a full decade ago, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection feels like a brand staple. I have always found the chronograph version to be one of the more appealing models. Well, today is my lucky day because I get to go hands-on […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph In Silver And Ocean Green to read the full article.

Introducing Some More Watch Madness: The Behrens × Konstantin Chaykin “Ace Of Hearts” In Three Materials Fratello
Behrens × Konstantin Chaykin “Ace Jul 26, 2025

Introducing Some More Watch Madness: The Behrens × Konstantin Chaykin “Ace Of Hearts” In Three Materials

You don’t realize you want it if you can’t imagine it. Luckily, free-spirited watch brands like Konstantin Chaykin and Behrens have enormous imagination. When they collaborate, they reach new levels of watch madness. These two brands worked together for the first time three years ago and have joined forces again to create something that perfectly […] Visit Introducing Some More Watch Madness: The Behrens × Konstantin Chaykin “Ace Of Hearts” In Three Materials to read the full article.

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far) Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far)

It’s July, the halfway point of 2025, so we thought now would be a good time to take stock of some of our favorite new releases of the year. It’s been a busy new release from large and small brands alike, with a mix of ambitious new projects and iterative releases that take some of our favorite collections to new places. Our contributors, as always, found a lot to like this year at a variety of price points and in a large array of styles.  What are some of your favorite new watch releases of 2025? Let us know in the comments what we missed, and what you’re looking forward to or hoping for in the months ahead.  Zach Weiss – Fears Arnos  It didn’t take long to pick my favorite watch of 2025 so far, even with some stiff competition from Nomos and Grand Seiko. That watch is the Fears Arnos in Pewter Blue, a watch I’ve had the luck of encountering a couple of times in person. Fears is one of, if not the only, contemporary micro-indie working on the more formal side of watch design, something that isn’t surprising to anyone who has met the invariably well-dressed proprietor of the brand, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. But what makes their approach so intriguing is that they aren’t just making vaguely Patek-esque designs with Fears on the dial and calling it a day; they are coming up with innovative and even odd designs that one would still call dressy. That said, the Arnos takes their approach to a new level. A thin, rectangular watch measuring 33.5mm x 40mm x 8.4m...

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref May 30, 2025

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN

At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...

Maurice de Mauriac Pays Tribute to the Hotel Concierge with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
May 20, 2025

Maurice de Mauriac Pays Tribute to the Hotel Concierge with their Latest Release

Over the last year or two, I’ve been traveling more and more for work. More often than not, I’ve found the experience impersonal at best. Thanks to the new invention of “contactless check-in”, I am usually greeted by a row of iPads, making it feel more like I’ve made a 4-day reservation at a Genius Bar versus a holiday in Malibu. You see, like glass-blowing or macrame, hospitality is a dying art. The ability to make one feel welcomed isn’t as simple as having a few brochures at the front desk; but, instead, it’s an immeasurable talent that turns a two-night stay into an experience.  Luckily, there are a few good men fighting the good fight. An entire network of them, actually, called Les Clefs d’Or. Since 1952, this international organization has dedicated itself to the art of hospitality through its 4,000 members, making it one of the largest organizations of its kind. While many hotels now have a new-hire sit at a podium labeled CONCIERGE to hand out brochures of local attractions, the members of Les Clefs d’Or understands that a concierge is an untapped resource, giving you tips on where to eat, what to do, and he may pull a few strings to get you that hard-to-come-by table at the local Michelin-starred joint down the block.  Now, of course for me, the imagination starts running when I think of a private organization of hotel professionals who are maintaining the old guard of hospitality. One might even be reminded of The Society of the Crossed Keys ...

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Spring started May 11, 2025

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue

Spring started strong for Nivada. The Swiss watch brand released two new models in its Chronosport line, expanding it to five watches. We were lucky enough to try both the automatic and the mecaquartz versions. In this review, I’ll go hands-on with the former, namely, the Chronosport Blue. But before we get into that, let […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial Fratello
Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial

Last year, Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello launched his first watch, the A1. The triangular timepiece earned quite some hype on social media, and he sold many A1s to the lucky people who pre-ordered one. A few weeks ago, Matteo presented the Anoma A1 Slate, a refined version of the same watch with a brushed, engraved, […] Visit Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial to read the full article.

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary Worn & Wound
Hublot Drops Apr 2, 2025

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary

If $1 million were dropped in your lap tomorrow, what would you do with it? It’s an age-old question (okay, maybe not age-old), one that has driven endless late-night discussion and at least one surprisingly popular ‘90s Canadian rock song. Most of us have some version of an answer to the question, and Hublot has come along to offer up one solution for one lucky Big Bang enthusiast. As part of their celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot has produced a hell of a collector’s set - the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Unique Set. What does that mean? Well, it’s pretty much what it says on the tin. Hublot has, through a collection of five piece unique watches, built a collection of Big Bangs that does a pretty cohesive job of summing up the last two decades of Big Bang into one illuminated case. And for the very reasonable price of - cue Doctor Evil - $1 million dollars (well, really 1 million CHF, so about $1,099,000 US) it can all be yours. Inside this extreme collector’s set, you’ll find five Hublot Big Bangs, each of which combines a ‘high complication’ feature set with a case executed in some modern material or another. Moving through the collection, you’ll find a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a red and black ceramic case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a transparent sapphire case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in a Water Blue Sapphire case, a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Ca...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic. SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 1, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic.

TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets Fratello
Cartier Tank À Guichets I Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets

I am always torn between the Tank Basculante and the Tank à Guichets when it comes to picking my favorite rectangular Cartier. No, come to think of it, I am not torn at all. The Cartier Tank à Guichets is my favorite by some margin. Well, lucky me! Today, we see the reintroduction of arguably […] Visit Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets to read the full article.

Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection Mar 31, 2025

Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection

If last May’s TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith announcement left you yearning for a regular-production retro-inspired collection, then today is your lucky day. The new Formula 1 Solargraph collection is here, and I think it goes a long way toward satisfying the legions of fans asking for a return to the colorful good old […] Visit Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch Worn & Wound
MB&F; Feb 28, 2025

[VIDEO] The M.A.D.1S: First Impressions, and Scratching the MB&F; Itch

As a watch enthusiast, you inevitably come to admire certain brands and watches that you know, deep down, you’ll just never be able to own. It doesn’t take long in this hobby to become acutely aware that it’s insanely expensive, and there’s a whole miniature industry of watches that exist in absolutely untouchable realms. If you’re really lucky, maybe every so often you get a chance to see a watch in this class at an industry or collector event, but we’re talking about watches produced in the hundreds per year, max. They are genuinely rare. The odds of getting a glimpse of one of these super watches is always against you.  MB&F;, for me, has always been this brand. They are perhaps the watches I love the most that I have the smallest chance of ever actually owning. Trust me when I tell you I’ve made peace with that many times over, as most enthusiasts have with whatever watches or brands are truly out of reach. This hobby would be truly miserable, after all, if we let the disappointment of never actually being able to own a six figure watch ruin our day. So when the M.A.D.1 project surfaced a few years ago, I along with many other watch lovers got a shot of hope injected directly into their veins. Surely you know the story by now: Max Büsser, as a “thank you” gesture to his many partners and colleagues that have helped him create so many incredible but wildly expensive timepieces over the years, designed a watch that was made with the spirit of an MB&F;, ...

Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One Monochrome
Havid Nagan Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One

Havid Nagan (from the Armenian word havidenagan, meaning eternal) is a relatively new name in the independent watchmaking scene and the brainchild of California-based entrepreneur Aren Bazerkanian. The brand started with the inaugural HN00 series, a cushion-shaped titanium watch with guilloché-like dials powered by Schwartz-Etienne micro-rotor movements. Then came the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase. Things […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko Welcome Feb 24, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko

Welcome to another series of Fratello Favorites! Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. I am the lucky first to outline what I think are the best vintage watches in the price range and why. Over the coming weeks, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2025

Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee

Coffee and watches. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, movie theaters and popcorn, fireworks and the Fourth of July. OK, it might be the most obvious pair, but there are deep connections if you look for them. There’s a culture of hardcore enthusiasm associated with each, for one. And there’s even an entire brand (an incredibly popular and beloved one in our community) inspired by coffee culture. And, for some reason I’ve never really been able to put my finger on, watch photographers have become incredibly fond of staging watches near coffee mugs, coffee beans, and anything remotely coffee related. The reasons for this, frankly, are puzzling. But there’s one exception: if the dial of your watch is actually made of coffee, I think you’ve earned the right to feature some beans in your shot.  The latest watch from Arcanaut, then, gets a pass if you’re one of the lucky 33 collectors able to acquire one. Built on the ARC II platform with that highly contoured, futuristic 40.5mm stainless steel case, the new D’Arc Roast limited edition features a brown dial that is made, in part, from coffee grounds. It’s right in line with Arcanaut’s mission to experiment with unusual materials, and also reflects the deep love of coffee in the brand’s home country of Denmark, which is the home of four of the seven winners of the Barista World Championship (store that one in the back of your brain for trivia night).  So how is the dial made? According to the bra...

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne

If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 5, 2025

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin

It’s hard to understand Budapest without being there. On its surface, it seems like any other major European capital, but in practice, Budapest is a singular experience. I was lucky enough to visit Budapest when I was 14, and what I encountered was a city replete with contradictions, one that wears its history on its sleeve, and which evokes a unique perspective. In other words, it’s exactly the sort of city where you would expect to find someone like Jake LeBoy. “I went there for vacation a few years ago and I thought, you know, I’m just going to get an apartment here,” he told me. “It’s pretty nice. And I’ve been enjoying it ever since.” Jake LeBoy, the founder and designer behind the newly launched watch brand J.M. LeBoy, expresses a similar sort of contradiction. Talking to Jake, it would be hard to guess that the remarkably chipper native Californian had served as an enlisted Marine, or that he has spent much of the time since working as a military contractor all around the world. What wasn’t hard to see was his love of watches. Soft spoken and warm, Jake is a passionate watch enthusiast, driven by detail and with a strong sense of what it means to do right by the collectors whose attention he’s looking to grab. “I’ve always been a huge watch nerd,” he explained. “Even from the time I was a little kid, I saw Goldfinger and the famous Submariner, and then I saw Jason Bourne, the first one with the TAG Heuer… that for me, dude - I final...

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey Worn & Wound
Boldr Odyssey It isn’t Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey

It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799).  And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...

The Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph Limited Might be the Most Affordable Rattrapante Ever Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 27, 2025

The Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph Limited Might be the Most Affordable Rattrapante Ever

We probably sound like a broken record, saying it over and over again, but there’s really nothing quite like a genuine surprise in this hobby. It’s just that there’s so much predictability, month after month and year after year, it’s naturally the quirky and strange stuff that stands out and makes us really take notice. There are also, sometimes, watches that come along that present a truly shocking value proposition, which for those of us with watch budgets that fluctuate but are very much finite, is something that really gets us excited. Lately, we’ve taken notice of a number of independent brands offering previously exclusive complications at prices that only a few years ago would have been unheard of. We can call this the Bel Canto Effect, if you’d like, because it’s a trend that, if it didn’t start with Christopher Ward, is still very much exemplified by their affordable chiming watch. Perhaps even more unlikely than Christopher Ward dropping a chiming watch in a haute horlogerie design language, now we have word of Sea-Gull’s release of an affordable split-second chronograph, a complication that for years has been associated with the highest end brands.  The Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph Limited, as it’s known, is a $3,649 rattrapante chronograph presented in a classical style. It’s extremely under the radar, so much so that we genuinely wonder why more people are not talking about it. Just in case you need a refresher on what a split-secon...

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year SJX Watches
Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...