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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions SJX Watches
Breguet s Birthday Jul 8, 2025

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions

SJX and Brandon Moore kick off episode seven of the SJX Podcast with the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (which includes a tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch), discussing why this time might be different. Also on the docket is a recap of the spring auction season, which included strong prices for hot names in independent watchmaking, though other “indies” waned, surprising showings from hitherto esoteric clocks and pocket watches, and some value buys with out-of-vogue timepieces. Lastly, we recap Breguet’s 250th anniversary launches so far, which have met with a mixed reception, but demonstrate signs of life for a historic brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s “Tribute Jul 7, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché

Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct. Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised. The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue. Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche. Not all the zodiac emblems a...

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Jul 3, 2025

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon

Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Jul 3, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

Timing is everything when it comes to surfing and buying limited-edition watches. That’s doubly true when it comes to buying a surf-themed LE timepiece. So stop slacking and pay attention because here’s the Zenith × Time & Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This is the third and final “Surfer” limited edition, and Zenith […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention Fratello
Armin Strom s Jul 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention

If you’ve read my writing for any length of time, you’ll know I’ve got a soft spot for independents - the Urwerks, WRK Timepieces, and Armin Stroms of the world. These are the brands that, in my opinion, tend to push the envelope and take risks that most others wouldn’t. It was through a mutual […] Visit Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Limited Edition Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Jul 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Limited Edition

Rado’s long-standing connection with tennis has inspired a rich catalogue of special-edition timepieces that celebrate the sport in style. Over the years, the brand has released collectable models that nod to various facets of tennis culture through subtle design cues, commemorative engravings, and visual touches. From the 1998 DiaMaster ATP Tour and Roland Garros editions […]

Louis Vuitton’s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Journey Around the World SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Jul 2, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Journey Around the World

Translating as “Stopovers Around the World”, Escale Autour du Monde is Louis Vuitton’s collection of unique and lavish minute repeating pocket watches. The collection now counts two watches: Escale en Amazonie that depicts the heart of the rainforest, while the just-launched Escale Au Pont-Neuf is set just outside Louis Vuttion’s headquarters in Paris. Each timepiece is unique and powered by a new, purpose-built repeating movement with automata, also known as jacquemart, tourbillon, and an eight-day power reserve. Aside from watchmaking complications, the pocket watches also boast elaborate decoration, namely enamel and hand engraving, encapsulating the many crafts and skills possessed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Louis Vuitton manufacture in Geneva. The LFT AU14.03 Notably, the Escale Autour du Monde is actually Louis Vuitton’s second haute horlogerie pocket watch offering. The collection follows last year’s Asnières-themed pocket watch that was actually powered by a wristwatch repeater movement. The pocket watches of Escale Autour du Monde retain the same 50 mm diameter as the Asnières but with the LFT AU14.03 calibre within was developed from the ground up as a pocket watch movement. Escale en Amazonie (left), and Escale Au Pont-Neuf Initial thoughts Usually, modern pocket watches either rely on wristwatch movements (like the Escale à Asnières from last year) or near-century-old ebauches completed in the modern day. Louis Vuitton didn’t take th...

First Look – The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon Monochrome
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Jul 1, 2025

First Look – The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]

Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT Fratello
Certina DS-X GMT Well well Jun 30, 2025

Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT

Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.

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Worn & Wound
Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Jun 30, 2025

Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier

For this latest edition of Tool/Kit we’re recounting the experience of explorer and photographer, Niklas Marc Heinecke, as he traversed the glacier at Vatnajökull, Iceland. With him is a small troop of scientists and the Fortis Marinemaster M-40, together making the trek… “for the sake of knowledge.” We’re honored to share his story. Vatnajökull, Iceland. At 5:00 a.m., somewhere in the heart of Europe’s largest glacier, I peel my hand from the warmth of a down sleeping bag to check my tool watch. The Fortis Marinemaster M-40 ticks relentlessly, a constant in a landscape defined by change. Outside, the silence of fresh snow blankets a frozen world still recovering from the night’s storm.   The post Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier appeared first on Worn & Wound.

De Rijke & Co.’s Final Miffy Moonphase is Here, in a New White Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co.’s Final Miffy Jun 30, 2025

De Rijke & Co.’s Final Miffy Moonphase is Here, in a New White Ceramic Case

One of the things I really enjoy about covering microbrands and small independents is seeing how young brands develop in unexpected ways over time. My first exposure to De Rijke & Co. was through Zach Weiss’s review of their Amalfi 1S back in 2020. At that point, the brand’s calling card was their trick case design that allowed the wearer to easily rotate the dial for a better viewpoint while driving, as well as customized design options so clients could effectively create their own unique version of the watch. This “gentleman driver’s” watch, as they referred to it, remains quite appealing, and the case of course is still a part of their collection. In no way, however, could it have predicted the success the brand would find making watches featuring the “Miffy” character, a staple of Dutch children’s books since the 1950s.  Over the last three years, De Rijke & Co. has released several Miffy themed watches that go well beyond simple character dials. The Miffy motif has been used to experiment with bold colors, lume, and different expressions of the moonphase complication. These watches are whimsical, a lot of fun, and quite far removed, in my opinion, from the earlier Amalfi pieces, and it’s fascinating to consider how the brand got to this point.  Today, they’ve unveiled what is said to be the final Miffy watch. According to the brand, the new White Ceramic Miffy Moonphase has been in the works for three years. It is, it turns out, quite complicated...

Introducing – The Final Edition In De Rijke & Co’s Miffy Moonphase Collection Comes in White Ceramic Monochrome
De Rijke & Co’s Miffy Moonphase Jun 30, 2025

Introducing – The Final Edition In De Rijke & Co’s Miffy Moonphase Collection Comes in White Ceramic

The unique story of Miffy and De Rijke & Co starts back in 2022, when Dutchman Laurens de Rijke, founder of his own watchmaking company, launched something very unexpected: the Miffy Moonphase. The iconic Dutch cartoon bunny is known and loved the world over, and carefully protected by a foundation honouring Dick Bruna’s (Miffy’s creator) […]

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Jun 29, 2025

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf

Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is […] Visit Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Review: A Tribute From The Racetrack To The Big Screen WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Jun 26, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Review: A Tribute From The Racetrack To The Big Screen

A chronograph born for the big screen, forged in gold, and fuelled by Formula 1. The latest IWC Pilot’s APXGP Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just a watch; it’s a celebration of performance, precision, and pure emotion. From the Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG to the cinema, and now on my wrist, this is one experience I won’t forget anytime soon. What We Love The gold, black, and white perfectly reflect the colour palette of the APXGP racing team. The timepiece offers strong wrist presence with beautiful case finishing and a lively dial. From the film to the real-world F1 team, this is storytelling done right on the wrist. What We Don’t The smoked caseback adds to the stealth aesthetic, but slightly reducing the tint would’ve been better to showcase the beautiful movement finishing. And possibly a gold rotor to really nail home the APXGP ties! A touch less white on the dial (especially the minute track) could further enhance the legibility and let the gold accents shine even more. While 41mm is a signature size in IWC’s Pilot’s collection, the watch may still feel larger for slimmer wrists. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This review is unlike anything I’ve written before, because the watch at the heart of it is unlike anything I’ve experienced before! The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just another Pilots Chronograph model; it’s a symbol of speed...

Omega’s Small-But-Mighty Movement in the Aqua Terra 30 mm SJX Watches
Omega s Small-But-Mighty Movement Jun 25, 2025

Omega’s Small-But-Mighty Movement in the Aqua Terra 30 mm

Omega’s latest Aqua Terra is a competent women’s watch with a brand-new calibre that is both compact and proficient. Equipped with the new cal. 8750/8751, the Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm launches with a healthy mix of metal variations and dials across 12 models that will surely expand in time. Initial Thoughts Despite scarce coverage in watch media, watches made for, and marketed to women are very important to the industry. And, women have rewarded brands that put in the effort with enormous success. The Lady-Datejust, for instance, is often rumored to be Rolex’s highest volume model. While Omega offered an Aqua Terra 30 mm in the past, the Constellation has arguably the brand’s champion in the segment for the last few years. The new Aqua Terra 30 mm might look similar to its predecessor, but it stands out for the new cal. 8750/8751 that is a Master Chronometer-certified movement. Building a movement that can consistently meet Master Chronometer standards, while being small and thin, is an achievement on its own. All else being equal, larger movements perform better than smaller ones; the difference is significant enough that the ISO 3159 chronometer standard that form the COSC testing standards has less stringent requirements for movements 20 mm and under. Options Omega’s watches are often, and fairly, criticized for being unnecessarily thick, but that isn’t the case here, thanks in part to the new caliber. All steel and two-tone models are 10.6 mm tall (10.7 mm for...

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! Fratello
Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Jun 23, 2025

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!

Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.