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Results for Swiss Lever Escapement

1,754 articles · 36 videos found · page 20 of 60

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 31, 2026

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing. In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 Fratello
Jul 30, 2026

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400

In the past decade, we have seen many once-defunct Swiss brands return to the watch industry. A few recent returnees that come to mind are Gallet and Universal Genève. Today, another legendary brand joins the ranks. It’s the return of the classic Swiss brand Sicura. Under the leadership of the famous Ernest Schneider in the […] Visit Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 to read the full article.

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 27, 2026

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 27, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, we examine the Swiss watch industry’s June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop. The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand’s patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Autavia Jul 24, 2026

Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative?

I own both the Citizen Garrison and the TAG Heuer Autavia WBE5116.EB0173, and the difference between them goes far beyond price. The Citizen Garrison uses Citizen’s light-powered Eco-Drive movement and a remarkably light Super Titanium case, while the TAG Heuer Autavia is a Swiss automatic pilot watch with a COSC-certified Calibre 5 movement, a 42 mm steel case and a distinctive blue smoked dial. One is accessible and practical, designed for easy daily ownership. The other is a discontinued premium model with strong aviation heritage. That makes this an unusual but revealing comparison. Can an affordable Citizen Garrison provide the same wrist presence, legibility and everyday enjoyment as a significantly more expensive TAG Heuer Autavia? And how much do the Autavia’s automatic movement, finishing, heritage and premium positioning actually change the ownership experience? In this comparison, I will examine their design, comfort, materials, movements, readability and real-world value. For anyone searching for the best affordable pilot watches, or wondering whether an affordable pilot watch alternative can compete with a premium Swiss model, these two watches offer a fascinating answer. Case Size, Quality, and Comfort Both watches are very well made, but I sincerely prefer the Citizen’s case. The TAG Heuer Autavia has the solid construction and clean finishing expected from a premium Swiss watch. Its stainless-steel case feels substantial, and the transitions between i...

Ready For A Treat? Hands-On With The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Small Seconds Fratello
Jul 24, 2026

Ready For A Treat? Hands-On With The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Small Seconds

Lebois & Co doesn’t need an introduction here on Fratello. We’ve been covering the brand since its (re)introduction in 2014. Last year, Lebois & Co introduced the Heritage Small Seconds collection, inspired by the original models from the 1940s and 1950s. Today, we see two new variations featuring special dials made by Swiss dial specialist […] Visit Ready For A Treat? Hands-On With The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Small Seconds to read the full article.

The Best Watches for Summer 2026 SJX Watches
Seiko Jul 24, 2026

The Best Watches for Summer 2026

As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, we’re taking a look at some of the best beach-ready watches released in the first half of 2026. While the definition of a “summer watch” is subjective, the best examples tend to be robust, comfortable, and colourful, with enough personality to work well with short sleeves. We round up the most promising candidates of the year, spanning nearly all price categories. Under US$5,000 Seiko is a perennial favourite when it comes to value-oriented watchmaking, and so it’s no surprise that the brand has more than one candidate in the entry level pricing tier. First up is the Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition, a collaboration with the American streetwear brand founded by the late professional skateboarder Keith Hufnagel. But the appeal of the translucent green dial — which reveals parts of the day and date mechanism below — is obvious even if you plan to summer at the beach rather than the skate park. The look is inspired by Seiko’s Time Sonar flyback chronographs of the 1970s, though the new watch is a conventional three-hander powered by the cal. 4R36. It is robust enough for almost anything one might reasonably do on holiday, and cheap enough — just US$400 — that its owner can actually relax while wearing it. The ‘Seiko summer’ theme continues with the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001, the latest evolution of the brand’s no-nonsense diver, now upgraded in nearly every ...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club Worn & Wound
Jul 20, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club

We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card.  The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...

Introducing: Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5 Hodinkee
Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph Jul 20, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5

What We Know Breitling's Top Time has long been a unique outlier in the Swiss brand's line-up. A chronograph model with a square (ish) cushion case launched in 1964, it aimed to attract a new crop of younger consumers with its hipster design.  The Top Time soon made it onto the wrist of no less an icon than James Bond in the 1965 film adaptation of Ian Fleming's Thunderball, which saw Sean Connery's 007 sport the watch while driving an elegant and refined British sports car, the Aston Martin DB5.  The rest, as they say, is history. The U.K.-built Aston became synonymous with the U.K. secret agent. The Top Time? Not so much. While it thrived as a model line for Breitling, Bond moved on to a series of other watch brands in subsequent installments of the film series, from Rolex to Seiko, and these days, Omega, via a longstanding product placement deal.  Now Breitling, following the successful launch last year of the limited edition Top Time B01 'Racing' Series in 38mm, and the deal this year to hook up with Aston Martin as a sponsor of its F1 team and other motoring endeavors, is giving us its tribute to the DB5 in three limited edition models that aim to capture the refined elegance and power of the grand touring car on the wrist.  The new Top Time Chronograph B01 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5 case measures 41 millimeters by 47.9 millimeters and13.8 millimeters thick. The dial of each limited-edition model features a wood inlay rehaut, meant to evoke the wooden steering w...

Complicated Collectors: King Farouk I SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin before Plan-les-Ouates Image – Jul 20, 2026

Complicated Collectors: King Farouk I

On the morning of March 30, 1937, 16-year-old King Farouk I of Egypt visited the workshops of Vacheron & Constantin in Geneva. He had been on the throne for less than a year. His father, Fouad I, had died in April 1936, leaving him the crown, the palaces, and a collection that included one of the most complicated watches the Swiss had ever produced. The welcome was formal, as the company’s records and the following morning’s edition of La Suisse both confirm. The young king was received by the company’s directors and shown the workshops. He was already, by multiple accounts, deeply interested in watches as objects to be understood from the inside — the tour of the manufacture was a pilgrimage. Vacheron Constantin, before Plan-les-Ouates. Image – SJX composite/Vacheron Constantin At some point during the visit, Farouk made a remark that passed into the house lore of Vacheron & Constantin and into several of his subsequent biographies, though seldom accurately. The original French, as La Suisse reported it, was precise: “C’est qu’on n’abîmera jamais autant de montres que je n’en ai abîmé étant enfant!”, which translates as “One will never ruin as many watches as I ruined as a child.” Secondary sources have rendered this with démontées — dismantled — in place of abîmé; a small but telling substitution that transforms an admission of destruction into evidence of mechanical curiosity. A child who dismantles watches is a nascent watchmaker. ...

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business WatchRider
Oris Artelier Calibre 113 Jul 19, 2026

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business

When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...

New releases from Nomos, Maurice de Mauriac, Krayon and more Time+Tide
Nomos Maurice de Mauriac Krayon Jul 18, 2026

New releases from Nomos, Maurice de Mauriac, Krayon and more

With Wimbledon having concluded just last week, the tennis inspiration is still strong in our minds. Maurice de Mauriac expands its Rallymaster collection with a new colourway celebrating Swiss tennis. NOMOS introduces two models whose crisp, clean dials would perfectly echo the tournament’s all-white dress code. At the same time, Krayon offers an escape from … Continued

Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Bianchet Jul 17, 2026

Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold

Earlier this year, independent Swiss brand Bianchet expanded beyond its signature tonneau-shaped watches with the launch of the Rotondo UltraFino, a sleek round interpretation of its distinctive designs. With an ultra-thin profile, an integrated bracelet and a flying tourbillon movement, the titanium and carbon models introduced a more versatile side to the young brand while […]

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 Fratello
Seiko Marinemaster 300 I had Jul 17, 2026

Is It Worth It? - The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300

I had already been running Fratello for a decade when Mike Stockton asked me in 2014 why we didn’t cover Seiko more often. It’s not that I ignored it on purpose; I was just more focused on Swiss and German brands. Slightly pushed by him, I bought my first Seiko watch. It was a Seiko […] Visit Is It Worth It? — The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 to read the full article.

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist Monochrome
Voutilainen Jul 10, 2026

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist

When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]

Gerald Charles enlists No. 1 Padel player, Tutima sets its eyes on US market, Windup returns to Chicago Time+Tide
Gerald Charles Jul 10, 2026

Gerald Charles enlists No. 1 Padel player, Tutima sets its eyes on US market, Windup returns to Chicago

As summer in the northern hemisphere arrives, we approach the season of the year when Swiss watchmakers take their Vacances horlogères – a tradition since 1937 where workshops shut down in late July and early August for a three-week break. Of course, when Geneva Watch Days comes around, the industry is ramped back up into … Continued

Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold Fratello
Chronoswiss Goes Jul 3, 2026

Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold

Chronoswiss is a sneaky brand! Nod off for too long, and there’s a good chance that the Swiss independent will have released something intriguing. In today’s case, there are two very different debuts in the Opus and Pulse lines. However, one trait or material exists as a common theme. Our favorite metal, gold, comes into […] Visit Chronoswiss Goes For The Gold With The New Opus Dakar Sundown And Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloché Gold to read the full article.

Business News: Breaking N3W5 - Former AP CEO Bennahmias Announces First New Watch Brand Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henri Bennahmias Jul 1, 2026

Business News: Breaking N3W5 - Former AP CEO Bennahmias Announces First New Watch Brand

Former Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henri Bennahmias unveiled details of a new watch brand called N3W5 that will launch in late 2027 and draw on some significant names from the Swiss industry for the design, production, and craftsmanship.  Called 'N3W5' - an acronym for 'North, East, West, South' and pronounced 'NEWS,' the new marque will launch at Dubai Watch Week next year, the Honourable Merchants Group, the Bennahmias-led luxury brand constellation, said in a statement. Watch prices for the first models will start at about CHF 20,000, and production will commence at 'several thousand pieces' in the first year. A second collection will debut in 2028, according to the company's plans. François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Crissier, Switzerland, introducing The Honourable Merchants Group. The news of N3W5 comes as pressure and speculation have mounted as to what Bennahmias, who led AP for more than a decade and oversaw a period of spectacular sales growth to more than CHF 2.3 billion for the family-owned brand, would do next in the watch world. At a flashy event near Lausanne last year, Bennahmias unveiled his vision for THMG, a new, multi-brand luxury brand group backed by private investors that promised a new philosophy of work, innovation, products, and sustainability in the luxury space. The charismatic executive said the new group would not be driven solely by profit and that at THMG, "we want to change the world of business. It is a mission," Be...

First Look - The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement Jun 26, 2026

First Look - The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection

Maurice Lacroix introduced the 1975 collection last year to mark its 50th anniversary. Since then, the line has expanded to include GMT and day-date models, as well as the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, which was released earlier this year. Now, the Swiss brand welcomes the new 1975 Legacy with a machine-guilloché petite seconde display that sits […]

Interview - “The real question is not IF India will become a major watch market, but how quickly,” Says Diny Markose, Titan Watches CEO Monochrome
Rado Jun 23, 2026

Interview - “The real question is not IF India will become a major watch market, but how quickly,” Says Diny Markose, Titan Watches CEO

Swiss watch exports have been volatile for some time. Sluggish, oscillating between highs and lows, they reflect a global environment marked by uncertainty – not least because China, once the engine and Eldorado of the industry, has slowed down significantly. In this context, some analysts – armed with Excel spreadsheets, demographic curves and rising purchasing […]

Interview - Dieter Pachner, CEO of Certina, on the new DS Super PH2000M, Heritage, and the Brand’s Next Chapter Monochrome
Certina Jun 22, 2026

Interview - Dieter Pachner, CEO of Certina, on the new DS Super PH2000M, Heritage, and the Brand’s Next Chapter

With origins going back to 1888 in Grenchen, Switzerland, Certina has earned a reputation for producing robust, reliable Swiss watches built for everyday adventure. The introduction of the Double Security (DS) concept in 1959 established the brand as a pioneer in shock and water resistance, qualities that have defined its watches ever since. Today, as […]

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2026

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar

Despite my besten Bemühungen, when it comes to learning the German language, I’ve never found it to be very einfach, dear reader. But I haven’t let that cloud my judgment with German and Swiss brands. Especially those with Teutonic-sounding names like ochs und junior. Now hitting the two-decade mark since it was founded in 2006, the Swiss brand’s latest release shows it has no interest in stepping outside of its distinct design language of highly stylized, stripped-down watches with a clear “Weniger ist mehr” philosophy. We see this throughline in the new anno sandblasted. Available in 39mm and 42mm case sizes, this release upgrades the brand’s existing annual calendar with a sandblasted dial. But as you can see, the calendar display is undeniably the most eye-catching part of this watch, creating something that is just as much about the form of the watch itself as it is about the function. Even so, at first glance, it may be a bit hard to understand (not unlike the genitive case, but I’m not bitter…).  To do this, the Ludwig Oechslin designed annual calendar replaces conventional windows and text displays with a series of holes read directly (and I’m told “intuitively”) from the dial. The 31 holes around the perimeter show the date, with the ten-minute markers acting as five-day reference points. For example, the 30-minute marker also marks the 15th day of the month. A smaller group of seven holes shows the weekday, while 12 holes show the month, b...

Business News: Basel Returns To Watch Calendar With April Basilia Watch & Jewelry Show Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Jun 18, 2026

Business News: Basel Returns To Watch Calendar With April Basilia Watch & Jewelry Show

Basel, Switzerland, is returning as the venue for a major watch and jewelry show with the launch of Basilia planned for April, 2027. There's no word yet on which brands will participate, but event organizers say the show will give watch and jewelry brands from Asia and other parts of the world a venue to connect with buyers from Europe that don't participate at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, which is dominated by a handful of major Swiss brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. At a media conference Thursday in Basel, announcing the new fair, organizers stressed that Basilia is not a return of Baselworld, the massive event that was once the world's largest watch and jewelry fair boasting more than 2,000 exhibitors at its peak before Baselworld's final show in 2019. "Baselworld is no more. It has been more than seven years now, and it will not come back," says Roman Imgrüth, the CEO of MCH Group Exhibitions and Events, which is hosting the new fair with Informa Markets, the trade show and business-to-business events division of publicly listed Informa Plc. Basilia organizers, including MCH Group Exhibition and Events CEO Roman Imgrüth (left), announce plans for a new watch and jewelry fair in Basel.  Organizers say Basilia, which will take place after Watches and Wonders in Geneva, is targeting some 400 exhibitors and between 2,000 and 5,000 visitors for its inaugural edition next year. Participants and exhibitors have yet to be identified, but organizers sa...