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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Jul 29, 2024

In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex refreshed the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller collection with two new models in 18k gold matched with a Jubilee bracelet, giving a new face to its most complicated watch. The Sky-Dweller was the brand’s most complex wristwatch at introduction in 2012 and remains so a dozen years later. Despite its technical sophistication, the Sky-Dweller is very much a Rolex, incorporating innovations geared towards practicality and functionality. Combining the Saros annual calendar with a second time zone in 24-hour format, the cal. 9002 of the Sky-Dweller boasts several patents, marking out the Sky-Dweller as one of the most innovative Rolex watches of the 21st century. Rolex’s take on the annual calendar in particular is perhaps the most unique in contemporary watchmaking. It relies on clever mathematics and gear mechanics, while doing away with traditional levers or cams, in order to maximise reliability and useability. The second-generation Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller movement, the cal. 9002 that succeeded the cal. 9001 Notably, Rolex managed to incorporate all of the complications of the Sky-Dweller into a design that preserves the classic Oyster silhouette thanks to the innovative Ring Command system. The case has no pushers or buttons, but instead relies on the bezel as a clever function selector mechanism that transforms the signature fluted bezel into a functional device while eliminating the need for an additional crown or pushers. The Oyster ...

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Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert Fratello
Omega s iconic Speedmaster design Jun 11, 2024

Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert

Following the two MoonSwatch Snoopy watches (here), Swatch introduces three new models based on Omega’s iconic Speedmaster design. The previous MoonSwatch introductions linked to Apollo 13’s Snoopy models from Omega, and the new MoonSwatch models pay tribute to the beauty of planet Earth. Three new models will go on sale at Swatch boutiques on June […] Visit Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert to read the full article.

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Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 26, 2024

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch. Despite the seemingly simple nature of the problem, the solution is extraordinarily complicated, requiring two dozen rollers and many more gears and springs. With its roller-based world time mechanism, the Récital 28 can easily switch between showing summer or winter in both Europe and America, making the first-ever wristwatch able to do that. Initial thoughts Bovet’s complicated watches are usually enormous, intricately mechanical, and sometimes extravagantly decorated, sometimes sporting pearls, diamonds, and enamel work. The Récital 28 is less decorative but intensely mechanical. With clever engineering, the calibre inside addresses one of the longstanding challenges of a travel-time watch, accounting for daylight saving time (DST). The cleverness of the Récital 28 lies in its rollers, which each have four positions. This allows time zones to be easily backwards or forwards in accordance with DST. Even though the solution is straightforward in principle, executing it is immensely complex. In order to accommodate its many functions, the R28-70-00X movement incorporates multiple subassemblies that make it a unique proposition. As a result, the movement in the Récital 28 is unusually complicated, especially for what is essentially a world time watch. Its part-count of 744 puts it in grand comp...

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The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT: A GMT watch ready for adventure Worn & Wound
Boldr x Worn & Wound Jan 26, 2024

The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT: A GMT watch ready for adventure

Worn & Wound has always been about the active lifestyle: exploring the world around us, getting our hands dirty, and, more generally, using our gear – from watches, to knives, to pens – how it was meant to be used. We believe the value of the products we use and create comes from their utility, and in using them we can fully appreciate them. This spirit of adventure and action is what inspired us to collaborate with BOLDR on what can only be considered a rig of a watch: The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT GMT Limited Edition. Read on to find out what makes this watch special and why we’re proud to offer it here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, remember to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase! Worn & Wound has always been about the active lifestyle: exploring the world around us, getting our hands dirty, and, more generally, using our gear – from watches, to knives, to pens – how it was meant to be used. We believe the value of the products we use and create comes from their utility, and in using them we can fully appreciate them. This spirit of adventure and action is what inspired us to collaborate with BOLDR on what can only be considered a rig of a watch: The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT GMT Limited Edition. Read on to find out what makes this watch special and why we’re proud to offer it here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, remember to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase! The post The BOLDR x ...

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Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins Monochrome
Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt Jan 8, 2024

Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins

For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]

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Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise Worn & Wound
Seiko Land Tortoise Tool watches Aug 22, 2023

Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise

Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy.  Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023

True to form, Patek Philippe has debuted more than a dozen new timepieces from its Rare Handcrafts collection at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. Reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the new collection includes dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Featuring traditional Japanese motifs, the new releases reflect Patek Philippe’s expertise in a range of precious crafts and techniques, including marquetry, guilloché, and various forms of enamelling including Grand Feu cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, and grisaille enamel.  The event is taking place at the Sankaku Hiroba expo centre in Shinjuku and runs from now until June 25, 2023. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend. Detail of the ref. 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch Dome clocks and table clocks When it comes to Patek’s Rare Handcrafts, nothing serves as a better backdrop for an artist’s skills than the brand’s iconic dome clocks. Measuring 213.5 mm tall and 128 mm in diameter, each clock is powered by the mechanical cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is conveniently rewound by an electric motor. While I often find that miniature paintings on wristwatch dials can look cramped at such a small scale, the large panels of a dome clock provide ample space for more dynamic compositions. Case in point is the Dome Clock ref. 20137M-001 “Hanami”, which uses Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to depict the Japanese custom of appreciatin...

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Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium SJX Watches
Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

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An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune Worn & Wound
De Bethune When you go Apr 20, 2023

An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune

When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...

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Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are Feb 13, 2023

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle

Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...

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Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs   Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2022

Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs  

See that Apple Watch fastened to your wrist? Well, it may well be a masterful piece of technology that tracks your steps, buzzes you notifications and locates that missing iPhone you drunkenly left in that bar. But according to Dr Lotti Tajouri, Associate Professor of Genomics and Molecular Biology at Bond University on the Gold … ContinuedThe post Study: Your smartwatch is “more dirty than a toilet seat“ and covered in dangerous germs   appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Seiko s many Prospex dive Aug 25, 2022

Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch

A small, family-owned brand that focuses on affordable sports watches, Delma already has a half dozen-strong lineup of dive watches, but its latest is certainly the most novel. Rated to 500 m, the Quattro is a chunky dive watch with an unusual feature: the case module can be detached from the lugs and installed on a decompression plate. Initial thoughts Chunky dive watches are common across a wide range of the price spectrum, but most so at the affordable end. So the latest from Delma seems like yet another player on a crowded field. But the Quattro is interesting in a few respects. For one, the wide bezel and recessed crown give it an unusual enough look that it stands apart from the competition. Then there’s main attraction, a bayonet mechanism that allows the watch to be installed on a decompression plate. It’s questionable whether this has much functionality for a diver, but it does make the Quattro different. But detachable case notwithstanding, the Quattro is pricey for a watch powered by a Sellita movement. Seiko’s many Prospex dive watches are about a quarter less expensive, while Sinn’s ultra-robust U1 is only slight more expensive. Three ways Massive at 44 mm wide and 15.3 mm high, the case of the Quattro locks into a frame with the lugs via a bayonet-lock mechanism. A tiny sliding button on the side of the case releases the locking mechanism, while the frame is essentially a milled steel ring with the lugs at each corner. The release button is next to th...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin boutique Jul 8, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron

Hello everyone - Borna here! Thank you to Zach for letting me hijack this portion of the FWD. Last night, through the joint efforts of the Time+Tide Club and the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Melbourne, two dozen of our club members squeezed into the cosy store. Chit-chat was had before a presentation by Warren Ho, boutique … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Jun 12, 2022

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

With hair neatly parted and pocket square cheekily stuffed into his breast pocket, Takuma Kawauchiya doesn’t look like a former guitarist in a rock band that once toured around the world. But music’s loss has been the watch world’s gain in a very big way. The Grand Seiko R&D; engineer and watchmaker is responsible for the T0 Constant … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

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VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Last May 4, 2022

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

Last year, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turned 100 years old. But when a design remains incredibly compelling for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims as Andrew discovered when he tried it out for a week on the wrist. There’s no denying that Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega SJX Watches
Omega Perhaps Mar 24, 2022

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...

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Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Jun 12, 2021

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

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5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week Quill & Pad
Bulgari Feb 22, 2021

5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week

When Italians make Swiss watches, we are always in for a treat. Martin Green thinks this has something to do with many Italians being very passionate about mechanics and design being something of a religion there. Bulgari has been successfully blending these two main elements for decades, and at the virtual 2021 LVMH Watch Week the brand showed that it continues to excel at it. Here, Martin highlights five of his favorite new watches from the digital fair.

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Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Nov 26, 2020

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition

Just as IWC overhauled their Pilot’s collection in 2019, this year is all about the Portugieser collection for the Schaffhausen-based brand. While there are more than a dozen new references within the 2020 lineup, there’s one particular piece that not only captures the new direction of the collection but also encapsulates what IWC does so … ContinuedThe post Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP005 Sep 6, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist

For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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