Hodinkee
The First Authorized History Of The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Arrives This Fall
The second installment of Nicholas Foulkes's Rolex series is to be released on September 29 by Wallpaper*.
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The Monochromatic Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey
With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has undergone a sea change, and many feared that its rugged tool watches would be transformed beyond recognition. However, earlier this year, fans were pleased to discover the new Altitude MB Meteor, an incredibly resilient pilot’s watch based on the former MB1. Part of the refreshed Altitude […]
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve
Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
Fratello
Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch
I have said it before, and I will happily say it again: Behrens is one of the most exciting independent brands working today. Few companies make me lean forward in my chair when their emails pop into my inbox, but Behrens is one of them. The Shenzhen-based team has built a reputation for making watches […] Visit Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch to read the full article.
Video
How to BUY and SELL a ROLEX on the Grey Market
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Mechanical 40mm
The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection is one of the cornerstones of the brand, building on the rugged simplicity and reliability of the original soldiers’ watches produced during the 20th century. Known for their straightforward functionality, earthy colours, and robust construction, Khaki Field models have long been appreciated. From hand-wound mechanical editions inspired by WWII field watches […]
SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius
De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...
Worn & Wound
To Infinity and Beyond: the Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’
After reading the requirements from NASA to become an astronaut, I can confidently say that my dreams of going to space anytime soon have been indefinitely paused. There are a few requirements that I just don’t seem to fit. Among them, I need to hold a Master’s degree in a STEM field (I have a bachelor’s degree in Gender Studies); I need to meet a rigorous physical (nothing about me has ever been described as “rigorous”); and you need to have 20/20 vision (not the first time astigmatism has bitten me in the ass). While this realization has come to a shock for me – a man who has never worked out a day in his life and squints to read the McDonald’s drive-through menu – I can say I’m quite comforted in the fact that Oris and Bamford Watch Department have just released their ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control. So if I can’t do the job, I can at least look the part. It’s safe to say that over the last few years, Oris’ stock has continued to rise. Couple that with Bamford’s proven track record to be an ideal collaborator and you have a match made in carbon-fiber composite heaven. For starters, the base watch of this reference is the ProPilot Altimeter, which has the distinct bragging rights of being the only watch in the world to house a Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement alongside a mechanical altimeter. And while this technical skill is undoubtedly what got Oris and Bamford’s proverbial wheels turning, it was the design of the ProPilot which a...
Deployant
New: The Citizen exciting Fall Winter releases
Citizen's The Citizen is one of the watches which get us excited these days, and for Fall and Winter, we see two additional new models being released.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529
Seiko’s latest Presage Classic Series looks back at the late Edo period (specifically the Bunsei era, 1818-1830) with a gradient dial shade that was popular at the time. Perhaps even more emphasis is given to the straps that highlight upcycling with the use of leather offcuts from fine shoemaking. Inspiration was taken from the signature […]
Video
Fratello Talks: The Experience of Visiting A Swiss Watch Manufacture
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple
The everyday watch, the one-watch collection… A timepiece that blends ruggedness with refinement, capable of moving seamlessly from the office desk to the mountain trail. This is what Hanhart set out to achieve with the Preventor HD12, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s vision of a modern, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. Compact, scratch-resistant and deliberately simple, […]
Time+Tide
Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII
The Florence-based independent watch brand returns with a slim and stylish take on a GADA dive watch.The post Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple Limited Edition
While many of us love reading about the latest Haute Horlogerie pieces, it’s comforting to know that notable brands are producing affordable mechanical watches packed with added value. Hanhart has emerged as a leader in this market segment. Whether it’s the historic company’s focus on movement accuracy or the durability of case materials, it’s great […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?
When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Recap – The 10 Best Watches of Geneva Watch Days
In just a couple of short years, Geneva Watch Days has grown from about 20 brands into a global powerhouse fair of 66 officially participating brands, and a lot of others in and around the city showcasing tradition, creativity and innovation in watchmaking. This year, several major brands joined in on the celebration of watches […]
Video
The DOXA SUB 750T makes its return to regular production
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set Limited Edition
While the name Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is associated with some of the most successful and enduring watch designs of the 20th century, the designer also expressed his creativity through his own brand, Gerald Charles. Following the designer’s death, the Gerald Charles brand was revived by Federico Zivani. Inspired by an idiosyncratic case designed by Gérald […]
Fratello
One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
During Watches and Wonders this year, IWC announced the significant expansion of its Ingenieur line. We saw seven new references, including the one we’re looking at today, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 ref. IW324901, which retails for €11,300. Let’s dive in. IWC’s Ingenieur garnered considerable attention for the brand with the release of so many new […] Visit One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A new Defy Chronograph quartet starts the partnership between Zenith and USM
Zenith teams up with the iconic Swiss modular furniture firm USM on an unexpectedly stylish and colourful quartet of chronos.The post A new Defy Chronograph quartet starts the partnership between Zenith and USM appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Dragon
Dragons have become a recurring motif for Jacob & Co., appearing in elaborate Astronomia models such as the 50mm Astronomia Dragon with its double-axis tourbillon or a Mystery Tourbillon Twin Dragons. In 2025, Jacob & Co. refines this formula in a more wearable format, unveiling the Astronomia Solar Dragon. The Astronomia Solar Dragon case measures […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Micromilspec Pilot Worldtimer
Norwegian watchmaking company Micromilspec has only stepped out of the limelight in the past year or two, as it was previously fully focused on military-issued watchmaking for service members and women around the world. Watches like the TMBN Telemark Bataljon, for instance, were made in close collaboration with said bataljon and made available for active […]
Video
Is This The Purest Seiko Dive Watch? The Seiko SPB143
Monochrome
Introducing – New 3D-Printed Dials for the Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 & 5
Founded in 2004, Hautlence became part of the MELB Holding Group in 2012 and relocated to Shaffhausen to share premises with sister company H. Moser & Cie. Renowned for its unusual and creative displays of time, often showcased in large rectangular retro TV-shaped cases, Hautlence’s first Vagabonde model with wandering digital hours appeared in 2018 […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire
The year 1806 marks an important moment in Louis Moinet’s history, when the master watchmaker created a clock for Napoleon Bonaparte, a landmark commission that symbolised both prestige and ambition. It is after this date that the brand names its latest creation, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire, reaffirming its historic importance and renewing its pursuit of […]
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer goes extraterrestrial with the Carrera Astronomer (live pics)
TAG Heuer looks to reinvent the moonphase complication in a new sporty-chic aesthetic with three new models. The post TAG Heuer goes extraterrestrial with the Carrera Astronomer (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds
The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan). The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it. Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be pro...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Yema Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31
Yema continues to expand its Millésime Editions with yet another statement piece. The new Superman Tourbillon Millésime CMM.31 takes the brand’s most iconic model, the Superman diver introduced in 1963, and reimagines it as a professional-grade tool watch equipped with a manufacture movement with a tourbillon regulator. Usually reserved for rather fragile dress watches, the […]
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