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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43 Worn & Wound
Breitling Premier Chronograph from Sep 4, 2025

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43

Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2025

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches

More so than almost any other color option, a watch with a red dial begs to be noticed - whether the watch is large or small, simple or complicated, soberly matte or luxuriously shiny in its choice of case material. It’s not hard to see why: crimson and scarlet tones have long symbolized heat, sensuality, and even hints of temptation and danger. Best of all, for anyone inclined to take the plunge into red-dial watches, there are more options these days than ever, in just about every price range and style. Here we showcase 25 watches with red dials, some of which you can buy new and some which might require a little hunting on the secondary market. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $430, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, mostly offers simple three-handed options but also a handful of “quiet” complications, like the intriguing designed Bambino Day-Date, here in a red-dialed execution. The Roman hour numerals and railway minute track surround a pair of asymmetrically balanced subdials, a smaller one at 10 o’clock for the day of the week and a larger one at 5 o’c...

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 750T Series, Now a Permanent Collection Monochrome
Doxa SUB 750T Series Now Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 750T Series, Now a Permanent Collection

Since 1967, the Doxa SUB series has been a benchmark in underwater timekeeping, bringing the cushion-shaped case, patented no-decompression bezel and high-contrast dials to professional and recreational divers alike. In 2002, the brand introduced the SUB 750T, a bolder, oversized companion built for extreme depths. For its 20th anniversary, Doxa paid tribute to one of […]

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’ SJX Watches
Chopard Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’

Few brands approach marine chronometer-style wristwatches with the intensity of Ferdinand Berthoud (FB). Fewer still have the capacity to produce a watch that is truly hand made. The brand has leaned into these strengths to good effect with the Naissance d’une Montre 3, which is perhaps the most labour-intensive wristwatch ever created. Marking the third official chapter of the Time Æon Foundation’s Naissance d’une Montre project, the Montre 3 is the byproduct of a six year quest to thoroughly document the steps required to make a chain and fusee wristwatch using only hand-operated tools. While the production of the Montre 3 involves more than 80 individuals from both FB and its parent Chopard, the labour involved equates to roughly a full year’s work for five people to produce each of the 11 pieces that will be made in the coming years. Initial thoughts It’s easy to feel jaded about the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing, with terms like ‘hand made’ and ‘in-house’ used all too freely, making it difficult to separate the signal from the noise. Make no mistake, the Montre 3 is, in some ways, what all traditional haute horlogerie watches aspire to be, and takes the concept of hand craftsmanship to its absolute limit. The Montre 3 is neither inventive nor complicated, but the intrinsic quality of its construction is immediately obvious and breathtaking in its own right. To some extent, the simplicity of the 44.3 mm white gold case demonstrates the ...

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator Inside new Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari Monochrome
Bulgari If you are attending Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari

If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014.  Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]

Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound Fratello
Gerald Genta Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound

It looks like a watch, and it sounds like a musical instrument. The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is a resonating 40 × 9.6mm yellow gold grand complication with a black onyx dial. And according to the watch’s creators, a musical instrument comes alive when you sound the time. The watchmakers behind this masterpiece set out […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring Fratello
TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco Sep 4, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring

Watch brands are constantly pushing the boundaries of new materials. Several brands have proprietary ones that they use for cases, dials, and hands, but using new materials for calibers happens far less frequently. Today, TAG Heuer introduces a carbon hairspring as a revolutionary next step in material use for watch movements. The innovative TH-Carbonspring was […] Visit TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.

First Look – Three New Versions of the Frédérique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Sep 4, 2025

First Look – Three New Versions of the Frédérique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (Incl. Video)

Frédérique Constant has built its reputation on making high complications more accessible, and few models embody that approach as clearly as the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. First introduced in 2016, the brand’s QP was, at launch, the most affordable manufacture perpetual calendar on the market. Nearly a decade later, and following updates such as the […]

Hands-on – The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon in Teal Green (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Sep 4, 2025

Hands-on – The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon in Teal Green (Incl. Video)

Laurent Ferrier is among the most laureled independent watchmakers in recent years, and for good reason. The brand seems to effortlessly blend shapes, colours and mechanics into fascinating yet elegantly discreet watches, even if we’re dealing with a world timer or a tourbillon watch. A prime example is the Sport Auto, one of Frank Geelen’s (our […]

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.

Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Mido Sep 3, 2025

Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch

Mido is not one of the more widely familiar watchmakers in North America - though its watches have enjoyed a longstanding popularity south of the border, in Latin America - despite the fact that the brand, now owned by Swatch Group, has been around for a long time. It was founded on November 11, 1918, the same date of the armistice that ended World War I, by watchmaker Georges G. Schaeren (below) in the Swiss town of Biel-Bienne. Its name comes from the Spanish phrase Yo Mido, meaning “I Measure,” which may or may not indicate that Schaeren had always intended his products to appeal to a large Spanish-speaking audience. What is indisputable is that the Mido brand contributed some significant innovations to watchmaking in the 20th Century, few of which are often acknowledged. The company came up with one of the first solutions to waterproofing watch cases in 1930, developing a sealing system (below) that installed a watertight gasket made of cork between the crown and the case; Mido later named this invention “Aquadura.” The Mido Multifort, still produced today, debuted in 1934 and became the first antimagnetic watch with automatic winding. In 1945, Mido unveiled the Multi-CenterChrono, the first chronograph watch with a central display for the elapsed time, and in 1954 developed the Powerwind automatic winding system that increased efficiency by reducing the number of parts in the mechanism. Of all these milestones, it was the Aquadura waterproofing technolog...

Creating Cultural Moments at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom with the “Giles” Film Premiere Worn & Wound
Sep 3, 2025

Creating Cultural Moments at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom with the “Giles” Film Premiere

When we first opened the doors to our Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn-based showroom in December of last year, the idea was simple: create a space where people could engage with watches and gear in a more meaningful way. Over the past nine months, that idea has grown into something larger-a cultural hub where community, creativity, and horology all intersect. Recently, the showroom took on a new role as a screening space for the documentary short Giles. Directed by filmmaker and documentarian Taylor Scott Mason, and featuring the work of photographer-turned-watchmaker Giles Clement, this doc dives into the process of designing and building a watch from scratch. On the night of the premiere, the showroom transformed into a small theater with seating for our special guests. Collectors, enthusiasts, and friends of the brand gathered for the screening, which was followed by a live Q&A; with both the director and subject of the film. The conversation offered a behind-the-scenes look not only at the making of the film, but also at both the creative and quirky ups and downs of bringing a watch concept to life in Brooklyn. Taylor Scott Mason brings a rich, global perspective to the film. Originally from Washington state and now based in Brooklyn, Mason moved to New York City in 2006 and has since built a diverse body of work across documentary, commercial, and editorial filmmaking-working in over 50 countries and highlighting his robust experience in storytelling through visual ...

Czapek Introduces the New Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces Sep 3, 2025

Czapek Introduces the New Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.

It’s hard to think that the first Antarctique is just five years old. In that time, what started as a bit of a surprise from a relatively unknown independent brand has become core to our understanding of independent sports watches, and the Antarctique in particular has become one of watchmaking’s most compelling platforms. Whether it be interpreted as a compact time-only sports watch or a highly complicated marvel, the Antarctique has been hard to ignore. Now, Czapek is bringing back one of its most notable variations - with a bit of a twist. The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante ‘R.U.R.’ builds on what may be the most compelling Antarctiques to date (the GPHG Nominated Rattrapante Ice Blue), but brings in a bit of sci-fi to turn it into something fun and different. The new grey and blue colorway is a big part of this, as is the use of a fictional robotic language inspired by the Predator movies, but the most notable addition when compared to the Rattrapante Ice Blue is undoubtedly the inclusion of a robot’s head at 12 o’clock. This micro-sculpture - which, in titanium, is hand-polished, laser-engraved, and micro-painted to achieve an impressive amount of fine detail and depth - was made for Czapek by MD’Art, who previously collaborated with Czapek to make the mirror-finished dial used on the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition last year. The robot head sits just above the column wheel on the dial side of the watch and has eyes that cha...