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Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Citizen s Affordable Series 8 Aug 27, 2024

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl

Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 530 How it Aug 26, 2024

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph

The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch.  Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything.   Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 25, 2024

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000

In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? The post 16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” Fratello
Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Aug 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”

Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen Worn & Wound
Tissot connect Aug 23, 2024

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen

How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.”   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m Monochrome
Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Aug 23, 2024

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m

If you’re an avid diver and watch enthusiast, the name Promaster should be more than familiar. Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different […]

Hong Kong Takes Time with the 2024 Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) 3-7 September Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2024

Hong Kong Takes Time with the 2024 Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) 3-7 September

If you need a change from the carpeted floors and the luxurious, calm, Gallican atmosphere of European fairs, Hong Kong’s Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) may well be just the right thing. Marton Radkai will be heading to that event for the second time to see what timekeepers the Asian market have in store ando to find out more about the trials, tribulations and trends of the industry there and globally.

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter SJX Watches
Chanel Aug 22, 2024

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter

Only recently taken over by LVMH, L’Epée 1839 is celebrating its 185th anniversary with the T35, a clock shaped like a 1920s racing car, specifically the acclaimed Bugatti Type 35, which set several records and won numerous Grand Prix. But the T35 is more than a clock – the removable engine block is actually a cigar lighter. Initial thoughts L’Epée 1839 is known for both its own clocks and the many collaborations with brands like MB&F; or Chanel. Although they are actual time-telling devices, L’Epée’s creations are usually elaborate kinetic sculptures which also happen to be built around clockwork. This is the case with the T35 as well. In itself the movement is not very advanced, but the T35 is more of an interactive kinetic sculpture rather than a serious chronometer. Bringing to mind the New York taxi clock made for Tiffany & Co., the T35 is a desktop timekeeper with clever details that allow the owner to interact with, like turning the steering wheel to set the time. The built-in lighter feels kitschy on its face, but is actually a logical and useful addition to the clock given the context. Such a clock will inevitably sit on a desk or coffee table, and cigars are a probable vice for many of the potential owners. A racing machine The T35 takes the shape of a classic racing car with aluminium bodywork on a steel chassis. The bodywork is available in classical racing colours: French racing blue, British racing green, Obsidian black, and Rosso Corsa. The elo...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC Fratello
Zenith Aug 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC

I live in a world where €10,000 isn’t throwaway money. However, I was researching a list of my favorite watches under this magic threshold, and something dawned on me. The world has changed, and while I’ve been living in it, I’ve slept through the fact that many watches cost significantly more than this. At first, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- Mike’s Picks From Nomos, Zenith, And JLC to read the full article.

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3 Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Aug 19, 2024

Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346

Cycling and watches have more in common than just gears. These enthusiast hobbies also share a mindset and a style that seem to go hand in hand. In this edition of Tool/Kit, our pal Evan Perrone, a professional in the cycling industry, takes Forstner’s new Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 for a spin and talks to us about cycling and traveling on time and in style. Hey Evan! Thanks for being the subject of a Tool/Kit for us. Can you tell us and our audience a little bit about yourself? Where are you based? What do you do for a living? What are your hobbies? Hi I’m Evan Perrone, so glad to be chatting with you today. I’m a native Pittsburgher, born and raised, and that’s where I reside now. My current title is Senior Account Manager and Special Projects. I oversee account business in four states as well as sit on several category committees. These committees help shape future Cannondale’s bicycles and how they come to market. I’ve been with Cannonade for over 4 years now. I love it. I’ve been in the cycling industry in some semblance or another since 2003 and would consider myself an industry veteran. My hobbies do, of course, include cycling, but Worn & Wound has been instrumental in discovering my passion for and interest in watches. I also like anything with wheels, so that includes cars and motorcycles, including vintage varieties… I’m all about it. The post Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 appeared first on Worn & Wo...

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

Hands-On With Two New Colorways Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Aug 17, 2024

Hands-On With Two New Colorways Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

This June, Hamilton added two more colorways to its hit collection, the Khaki Field Mechanical. Jorg covered the release here on Fratello, but in the meantime, I have been able to go hands-on with the white and blue models. Consider this an impromptu follow-up to his introduction article. What do these new Hamilton Khaki Fields […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Colorways Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Aug 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer

It shouldn’t be too hard to pick three favorites from all those sub-€10k watches out there, right? However, Thomas and Jorg have already cherry-picked some classics away from me. I also wanted to stay away from the other evergreens and come up with a few more original picks. That’s why it actually took me quite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer to read the full article.

Unorthodox Chronos, a field watch everyone should consider, pouches to carry them, and a notepad Worn & Wound
Aug 14, 2024

Unorthodox Chronos, a field watch everyone should consider, pouches to carry them, and a notepad

A pair of Unorthodox Chronos, a field watch everyone should own, some pouches to carry them in, and a notepad to jot down where you stored them.  The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. A pair of Unorthodox Chronos, a field watch everyone should own, some pouches to carry them in, and a notepad to jot down where you stored them.  The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Unorthodox Chronos, a field watch everyone should consider, pouches to carry them, and a notepad appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 Fratello
Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 Aug 14, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445

There’s no doubt that vintage Tissot watches represent great value. I liken them to downscale Omega watches in the same way that many VWs are similar to more expensive Audis. This translates to quality movements, cases, and designs at approachable prices. Today’s Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 is a great example of an affordable and […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Tissot Antimagnetique Pointer Date 6445 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Stargazer, Konstantin Chaykin’s Most Complicated Watch To Date Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Aug 13, 2024

Introducing – The Stargazer, Konstantin Chaykin’s Most Complicated Watch To Date

Konstantin Chaykin’s work as an independent watchmaker is probably mostly known by his ever-growing collection of Wristmons. This series of watches, starting out with the playful Joker watch in 2017 but getting more and more creative and complex plays into the Pareidolia effect. This is the tendency for people to see faces or other patterns […]

Omega And The Paris 2024 Olympic Games - From The Wrists Of Gold Medalists And Record-Breakers To Trackside Timekeeping Fratello
Omega Aug 13, 2024

Omega And The Paris 2024 Olympic Games - From The Wrists Of Gold Medalists And Record-Breakers To Trackside Timekeeping

This past Sunday, the Paris 2024 Olympic Summer Games came to an end. Over 45,000 volunteers helped organize more than 300 events across 35 different venues. Over 10,000 athletes from 200 countries tried their best to win a gold medal in one of the 32 different sports. I think we can conclude that this 33rd […] Visit Omega And The Paris 2024 Olympic Games - From The Wrists Of Gold Medalists And Record-Breakers To Trackside Timekeeping to read the full article.

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture Aug 12, 2024

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Honours Ancient Chinese Culture with its Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols

Vacheron Constantin taps into a more creative vein with the latest quartet of watches celebrating ancient Chinese culture. Emerging from Vacheron’s Métiers d’Art atelier, the four models offer two different interpretations of the legendary Chinese motif known as the “Seawater Cliff”. The motif, which appeared in the 14th century, represents the sea crashing against steep […]