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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite Nov 27, 2019

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite is a highly technical yet decorative grand complication panelled in meteorite and aventurine. But it also evokes watchmaking of the early 2000s in its mechanical grandeur. Exotic tourbillons started to proliferate at the turn of the millennium, and soon the offerings were numerous, ranging from orbital to inclined to multi-axis. Today such tourbillons are commonplace, but in the early 2000s they were radical and cutting edge. While the orbital tourbillon was nothing more than a visual spectacle, the inclined and multi-axis tourbillons were attempts to adapt Breguet’s invention for the wrist, in other words they made chronometric sense, at least on paper. One of the earliest and most significant multi-axis tourbillons was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon of 2005. While it wasn’t the first multi-axis tourbillon in a wristwatch – that honour goes to Thomas Prescher – the Gyrotourbillon was distinguished by its elaborate, three-dimensional cage of lightweight aluminium, made possible only with the aid of modern technology. The original Gyrotourbillon of 2005, which also incorporated a perpetual calendar with equation of time With the leap year and power reserve displays on the back The Gyrotourbillon was arguably the complication that defined Jaeger-LeCoultre as an haute horlogerie brand rather than a movement maker for other marques. Since its launch the Gyrotourbillon evolved into several iterations, including thi...

What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Has Nov 27, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M

Has any one watch had more of an immediate effect on its audience than the Omega Seamasters featured in James Bond films? Seriously … almost every single time we talk to anyone about their SMP, invariably 007 is hurled into the equation. It’s got to be one of the smartest pieces of marketing since, well, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Dubai also showed Nov 26, 2019

WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019

In a city as affluent as Dubai, it isn’t a surprise to see some pretty wild watches come out to play at the city’s own Dubai Watch Week. While there are some of the usual suspects to be seen, such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, Dubai also showed its sophisticated side with some less common … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: At Dubai Watch Week 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industry News: GPHG Announces Revamp of Nominations and Awards SJX Watches
Nov 26, 2019

Industry News: GPHG Announces Revamp of Nominations and Awards

As the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is gearing up for its 20th anniversary next year – and a week after the 2019 winners were announced – the foundation that administers the industry awards has announced the Academy. This adds an additional layer of nominations and votes to the awards to better encompass a wider swathe of the watch business. Slated to be several hundred strong – 300 was the number mooted – the Academy will be composed of individuals from across the watch industry, from brands to the media to retailers. The large size of the Academy and its diversity is to ensure the GPHG awards represent the industry’s views as much as possible. The GPHG trophy takes the form of a gilded hand The Academy will be able to nominate watches for the awards – in past years only brands could propose their own watches – as well as vote in the earlier shortlisting process. The final vote and physical evaluation of the shortlisted candidates will then be undertaken by a 30-member jury meeting in Geneva, which is similar to the voting process today. The first members of the Academy will be announced in early 2020. Subsequently, new members can join the Academy when nominated by existing members.

Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO drops Nov 24, 2019

Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point

I like interviewing Jean-Christophe Babin. There is a playfulness to the Bulgari CEO; in fact, I’d go so far as to say there’s a wickedness to his personality that makes the exchange unpredictable. You don’t know what’s going to happen, or what direction the conversation will take. But wherever it goes, it’s almost always with … ContinuedThe post Bulgari CEO drops an Octo Finissimo Chronograph on the ground to make a point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed … ContinuedThe post Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations Nov 24, 2019

#JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations

We’ve all heard of a wrist flex, but what about an invitation flex … is that a thing? Well, if it wasn’t before, it is now, because hip hop heavyweight, music producer and entrepreneur Jay-Z has gone and sent out Rolex’s eponymous Daytona as VIP invitation gifts to his inaugural Shawn Carter Foundation Gala. In … ContinuedThe post #JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking another look at the Rado Tradition 1965 Time+Tide
Rado Tradition 1965 Editor’s note Nov 21, 2019

Taking another look at the Rado Tradition 1965

Editor’s note: Well, this is something that you’re probably not going to see every day, not least because, apart from the Rado Tradition 1965 presenting a very eccentric aesthetic, the rectangular wonder was limited to just 1965 examples, in both its medium and XL iterations. It’s got to be one of the more quirky releases … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Rado Tradition 1965 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet Time+Tide
Hublot has Nov 20, 2019

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet

Horological disruptors Hublot are hosting an exhibition right now at the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) in Lausanne, Switzerland … but it’s not for watches. No, the Swiss watchmaker is hosting what is said to be one of the best sneaker exhibitions ever assembled. And while this may sound slightly off-brand for … ContinuedThe post Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 Nov 20, 2019

Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400

Editor’s note: With so much attention and speculation surrounding the all-steel variants of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 15400 and now 15500, it’s easy to forget that the Holy Trinity watchmaker also offers their most prized timepiece in two-tone steel and 18k Pink Gold. And while it’s easy to comprehend why the stainless steel variants are … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin ref 6378Q automatic Nov 19, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction

While the first instalment of highlights in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction covered mostly complicated watches, this is a look at the simpler and sportier stuff. A good number of the sports watches are in First, the opening session of the sale that is made up of watches consigned by the original owners. Some of these watches are distinguished by thorough historical documentation, as with the Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 below that includes several photographs of the original owner wearing the watch. And the rest of the sale also includes a few gems that are not exceptionally valuable, but attractive in both style and price. One example is the Vacheron Constantin ref. 6378Q automatic in white gold, with a diamond-marker dial to boot. This is part two of the highlights; you can find part one here. And the full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. The 6378Q First lot 813 – Cartier Crash Radieuse Launched last year, the Radieuse is one of just a handful of limited edition versions of Cartier’s iconic asymmetric watch. It takes the “crash” theme literally – the case and dial feature a radiating shockwave motif that starts on the dial and continues on the case, which has a relief, concentrically lined surface. The case is 18k yellow gold, while the crown is set with a brilliant-cut diamond. And inside is a small hand-wound movement made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. And in a big plus for potential Asian buyers, the watch is numbered “08/50”. Purchased from one of Ca...

Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor Editor’s note Nov 19, 2019

Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor

Editor’s note: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an amazing timepiece. No doubt about it. It’s also the epitome of what Rolex does so well - take something exceedingly complicated, like an annual calendar, and then create a simple, novel and ingenious way of not only displaying said complication but how you interact with the watch. Seriously, who … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin minute repeater pictured above Nov 18, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel

Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Nov 17, 2019

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is the recent winner of the Chronograph category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and current world record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph. Joshua Munchow thinks that as such the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT deserves closer inspection to discover just how it achieved this feat while looking cool in the process.

Going out with a bang: 3 of the best Hublot Big Bangs Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bangs Ever since Nov 17, 2019

Going out with a bang: 3 of the best Hublot Big Bangs

Ever since its unveiling way back in 2005 at Baselworld, Hublot’s Big Bang has been not only an inimitable collection of timepieces but also a provocateur in the horological landscape that has challenged the notion of what a timepiece can and should be. As we’re sure many of you will already know, the Big Bang … ContinuedThe post Going out with a bang: 3 of the best Hublot Big Bangs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue Editor’s note Nov 17, 2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue

Editor’s note: The Rolex Milgauss is a distinctly underrated timepiece. In fact, it may be one of the most forgotten-about models in Rolex’s current Professional line-up. And many of us thought leading up to Baselworld this year that it may well be discontinued, due to Rolex parading the Milgauss all over their social platforms and … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Nov 17, 2019

Dubai Watch Week Returns – Nov 20-24

Returning for the fifth time, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place from November 20-24, once again at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), a sprawling complex of offices, shops, restaurants, and three hotels, which is entirely self contained, making a visit to DWW easy to plan. As is tradition, the event includes exhibitions, watchmaking classes, and talks. Amongst the speakers will be Masayuki Hirota, an eminent Japanese watch journalist and the editor of Chronos Japan, who will be speaking about Grand Seiko. And DWW once again includes the Horology Forum, a series of panel discussions that take place daily. Panellists this year include journalists like Ariel Adams of aBlogtoWatch, watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Stephen Forsey; brand chiefs including Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard, Jean-Claude Biver of LVMH, and Benoit Minitiens of Ressence; as well as watch collectors like San Francisco-based Jeffrey Kingston, and Aldis Hodge, an American actor who is also a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. And naturally the speakers’ roster also includes prominent local personalities, including collector Hamdan Al Hudaidi and Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, chief commercial officer of Seddiqi Holding, the parent company of DWW’s organiser. A panel session at DWW 2018 And some newcomers Rolex is taking part for the first time in DWW, and bringing along with it the Oyster Perpetual Submariner exhibition, a series of displays within a sh...

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook comes correct Nov 15, 2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging ’60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Would you pay a retailer 100K per year to choose 12 watches for you? Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2019

Would you pay a retailer 100K per year to choose 12 watches for you?

Because that’s what Australian retailer Kennedy Luxury Watches are proposing with their ‘Kennedy Luxury Watch Service’. Just 12 subscriptions will be available for that 100k, and all watches will, apparently, be “suited to the lifestyle, interests and personality” of each subscriber. And it’s got us asking: where does this idea fall on an axis between … ContinuedThe post Would you pay a retailer 100K per year to choose 12 watches for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum From Nov 15, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR03-92 Full Lum

From the ultra-graphic BR-X to the newly launched, all-steel BR-05 collection, Bell & Ross’ capacity for reinterpreting its signature square-cased, aviation-inspired watches has proven rather remarkable. But its latest watch is a return to its roots, and perhaps the most extreme iteration of its foundational BR-03 model. The BR03-92 Full Lum is the visual negative of the BR 03-92 Nightlum launched a year ago. While the Nightlum had a black dial with luminous numerals and markers, the Full Lum has an entirely luminous dial with its indices printed in black – and a luminous strap to boot. Stealth dial and strap The watch features what appears to be the standard, unapologetically industrial BR 03 dial with oversized Arabic numerals at the quarters and large baton markers. However, the entire dial as well as the bottom sections of the hands are painted with Super-Luminova. Notably, even the date disc, visible through an aperture between four and five o’clock, is coated with “lume”. And not only is the dial fully luminous, it also uses the brightest Super-Luminova, specifically C3. It is the purest form of Super-Luminova with a pale-yellow appearance during the day, while emitting an intense and long-lived green glow in the dark. As a concession to daytime aesthetics, a majority of watches utilise white lume, which is fully white in daylight and emits a blue glow in the dark. This is simply because white offers a more attractive contrast against black or blue dials. ...