Deployant
Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag – special report after 2 weeks on the wrist
We received a Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag review loaner for a fortnight to try out. Here is our report after the 2 weeks as our daily driver.
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Deployant
Quill & Pad
RGM Model 600 Chronograph: A Perfect Fit
Joshua Munchow appreciates brands that work hard to build their heritage and carve a niche for themselves with solid daily-wear watches while having fun with the occasional haute horlogerie piece, especially if that brand is an independent. And if it's an American brand that makes its watches out of a small shop in Pennsylvania, all the better. Here Joshua reviews the new RGM Model 600 Chronograph, a robust and affordable chronograph suitable as a daily wearer.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs
The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Rolex robberies – when your watch makes you a target for crime
Wearing a Rolex will invariably attract attention. Bragging rights aside, owning a Rolex comes with a host of benefits: they can make a great impression with your in-laws, they are built to last for a very long time, they hold their value better than most luxury commodities and, of course, they tell the time unusually … ContinuedThe post The Rolex robberies – when your watch makes you a target for crime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine
I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise
If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.
Deployant
Review: Leica SL2-S and lenses – a great and productive week as our main camera
Chillout TGIFridays return with a hands-on review of the new Leica SL2-S after a week as our daily camera for our work here.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a psychedelic conversation starter
Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport. But CEO Julien Tornare and his team are clearly on a roll. The DEFY 21 continues the brand’s momentum with this unexpectedly colourful collaboration with a contemporary artist. The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone finds their high-tech tool watch inhabiting … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a psychedelic conversation starter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One Woman’s View Of What Women Want In Watches
Every woman – nay, every person – is different. Which means their needs and wants will be different. All Elizabeth Doerr can do is tell you about her own experience with watches. But perhaps the most important thing of all to know is that any watch is a woman’s watch if a woman is wearing it.
Time+Tide
Here’s why the 2008 Omega Planet Ocean continues to be the watch I wear the most
What is it that makes a watch an ideal daily wearer? The requirements change from person to person without doubt, but there are a few essentials which should at least be considered – decent water resistance, legibility and reasonable accuracy. Occasionally, though, the right watch comes along and ends up stuck to your wrist whether … ContinuedThe post Here’s why the 2008 Omega Planet Ocean continues to be the watch I wear the most appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Fresh and unfiltered – why Dimepiece could be the shake-up that watch culture needs
If you want youthful edge and attitude, watch marketing is probably the last place in the known universe that you’re going to find it. Brands invariably take a strait-laced approach, heaping laboured emphasis on their luxury credentials, heritage and technical prowess. All of which is pretty dull. But it also risks turning off an entire … ContinuedThe post Fresh and unfiltered – why Dimepiece could be the shake-up that watch culture needs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer
Despite a full 12 months passing since COVID began restricting the places we can go and the people we see, the watch world still hasn’t worked out how to run an interesting event online. Starved of the opportunity to present watches in the metal, the polite way to describe most virtual events is dull at … ContinuedThe post Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection
A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series
Each of the models in the Rolex Professional series is a tool watch made for a man on a mission. While the Submariner and Sea-Dweller are diving watches, the Rolex Explorer II was originally built in 1971 for speleologists or cave explorers who required a sturdy, functional and highly legible watch while working in almost … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 is the unsung hero in the Professional series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Rebellion meets technology in the history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept
The word “concept” is something that is often associated with the world’s most enthralling works of art. A concept album can tell a very deliberate story, or explore a particular theme or idea in wondrous detail. A concept car is usually shown to represent the pinnacle of a designer’s imagination that’s invariably watered down should … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Rebellion meets technology in the history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020?
No, not another GMT?! Well, what if we tell you that this is a 39mm piece of vintage-inspired perfection with a goldilocks-sized 38mm case and a slightly wider bezel. And that its colours are as F.R.E.S.H as only the French can make them. If you know Baltic already, you might say that this is a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
Quill & Pad
Three Kinds Of Blue: 3 Cool And Relatively Affordable Limited Edition Watches Under €2,500 From Seiko, Oris, And Union Glashütte
For less than €2,500 you can get a pretty cool watch with an interesting story to tell. But which one: Japanese, German, or Swiss? Jan Lidmaňský highlights three possibilities from Seiko, Union Glashütte, and Oris, each of which might find a home on your wrist, but which would you choose? And why?
SJX Watches
Insight: Patents in Watchmaking
Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...
Time+Tide
Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck
Yes, maybe you use your watch mostly to tell the time. But how about the joys of using a good old chronograph to time your bike ride to the shops. Or flying into another time zone with a GMT on your wrist (it will happen again one day). Let’s tempt you with the best value … ContinuedThe post Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
2021 Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Review
Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist. Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions
Any watch enthusiast whose tastes gravitate towards dive or tool watches will be familiar with the Seiko Prospex collection. It’s the bulletproof, no-nonsense collection that Seiko produce with the professional outdoors person in mind, hence the name Prospex – contracted from Professional Specifications. The Prospex line is now bolstered with the all-new Seiko SPB207, SLA047 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Inspired by a wilderness paradise come this trio of Seiko Prospex Diver 140th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings
DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as … ContinuedThe post Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hands-On with The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15000 is an excellent update to the basic Royal Oak model and a great all-around daily-wearer.
Deployant
Santos de Cartier in steel and ADLC – a quick look
One of the most iconic watches by Cartier, the Santos needs no introduction. The origins of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Cartier first designed the watch to accompany aviator Santos Dumont on his intrepid flights. With an aviation history, Santos bears the pedigree of a Pilot’s watch and is one of the earliest tool purpose wristwatches in history.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker
Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.
Time+Tide
2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up?
Look, I don’t have a crystal ball that can tell me which new watches will or will not drop this year. But when people raise the question of whether or not the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its 39mm dial will replace the 41mm line in the Tudor catalogue, I am not afraid to share my … ContinuedThe post 2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock
A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...
Time+Tide
The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines
I’d almost have to include a ‘ghost watch’ in my three, as there was a long period, at the height of our first lockdown, where I stopped wearing a watch altogether. Despite appearing on Zoom daily, often back to back, for a good few weeks, if not a month, I went bare-wristed. The reason? Two … ContinuedThe post The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.