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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship

Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59

Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”

Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]

First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet held Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138

About a year ago, when Audemars Piguet held its yearly event to present its new collection, the brand introduced a highly appealing version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, made with artist and seasoned collector John Mayer. Besides the incredibly textured dial, AP issued a highly important statement. This watch marked the swan song […]

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold and Burgundy References to the Seamaster Diver 300M Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold Feb 24, 2025

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold and Burgundy References to the Seamaster Diver 300M Collection

Giving an icon a shiny new coat of paint can be daunting. Of course, if you’re Omega and the icon is the Seamaster Diver 300M, you have plenty of material-both literally and figuratively-to draw on. In that vein, the new Seamaster Diver 300M in Bronze Gold and Burgundy, inspired by the very well-received 007 Edition launched in 2020 for the release of No Time to Die, isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it sure is making it prettier.  This new Seamaster features a strikingly similar design ethos to the 007 Edition, with an oxalic anodized bezel ring and dial, dual screw-down crowns at the 3 and 10 positions, and a domed sapphire crystal. Setting it apart, however, is the Bronze Gold 42mm case, hands, and indices. Omega’s proprietary alloy is composed of 37.5% 9K gold, along with palladium and silver, creating a material that, according to the brand, touts corrosion resistance without verdigris-oxidization, which extends the patina process over a longer period of time than regular bronze. Of course, the Bronze Gold case isn’t the only noticeable difference from the 007 Edition-the new Seamaster’s bezel sports a deep shade of burgundy that contrasts beautifully with the case and gives the watch an air of royalty. Two different models will be available at launch, and both feature the burgundy bezel over a matte black sandblasted aluminum dial. PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indices, all of which are coated in Super-LumiNova, populate the dial alongside t...

Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Christopher Ward Feb 24, 2025

Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup!

The countdown to the Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to unveil the incredible list of presenting brands who are helping bring this event to life! As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. Just as a reminder, here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, we are thrilled to have a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our love for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair also wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued lead sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Lead Sponsors Christopher Ward Christopher Ward is an Anglo-Swiss watchmaker with a simple aim: to put premium quality watches within the reach of everyone. Founded in 2004, the company prides itself on combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with contemporary English design. Models like the Bel Canto, Trident, Sealander, and The Twelve are admired among watch lovers, while CW’s Calibre SH21 was the first in-house mechanical movement from an English brand in over 50 years. Oris Oris dives into 2025 with a joyful nod to this special heritage design with the 60th Anniversary Edition, a watch that faithfully revives the charm an...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde Worn & Wound
Feb 24, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Xeric Timeline Retrograde

When I attended the New York Windup Watch Fair for the first time, I was exposed to a multitude of brands and had my eyes opened to just how unique the watch industry could really be. Among the brands that I was introduced to, Xeric stood out due to their futuristic, space themed and outright eccentric designs. As I’ve followed Xeric, they’ve continued down this same path, which brings us to the Timeline Retrograde. With this new release, Xeric has set out to revive the double retrograde movement, making it relevant and affordable for modern collectors. To do this, Xeric has introduced the “Xeric Caliber X5.1” movement: to put it simply, this is a custom built module which stacks upon a Miyota 9015, a common movement in the microbrand community known for its reliability and affordability. This module gets you a retrograde display without the exorbitant costs associated with developing an entirely new movement from scratch. Additionally, since the foundation of this watch is a 9015, it should prove to be a reliable timepiece for years to come, but also be serviceable in case something happens.  The standout feature of the Xeric Timeline Retrograde is, without a doubt, its retrograde time display. Unlike traditional analog dials where multiple hands simply rotate around the face, the two retrograde hands “sweep” across the dial in an arc and then jump back to the start. The hours are shown by a shorter hand that glides from 12 to 12, while the minutes are indica...

Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula Fratello
Feb 24, 2025

Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula

In the world of independent watchmaking, few brands make an impression right out of the gate. WRK Timepieces, however, did just that with its debut ACF-01 last year. Now, with the release of the ACF-02, the brand refines its design language while maintaining the bold, lightweight approach that made its first model stand out. WRK […] Visit Hot Take: The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Refines a Winning Formula to read the full article.

First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Monochrome
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Feb 24, 2025

First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu

Just four months after Louis Erard unveiled its handsome Régulateur Gravé with a black dial, the brand returns with a blue dial. The idea of blending the brand’s classic regulator layout with a sector dial was spot-on; however, adding traditional engraving techniques to the mix was an inspired choice. Joining the permanent and newly created […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko Welcome Feb 24, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko

Welcome to another series of Fratello Favorites! Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. I am the lucky first to outline what I think are the best vintage watches in the price range and why. Over the coming weeks, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Thomas’s Picks From Omega, Rolex, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry Two Broke Watch Snobs
Feb 23, 2025

Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry

In watch culture today, “tool watches” are those meant for physical activity; the gym, swimming, scaling Mount Everest, setting new freediving records – you know, the things we all do, all the time. In reality, every watch is a tool, regardless of its water resistance rating or its ability to survive a drop from a three-story building. Organizing human activity is a major logistical challenge, and many require timing and coordination, though the degree to which that’s true varies. Timing military operations to achieve maximum pressure on the objective needs a little bit more coordination than meeting with some friends for lunch across town (though that may depend on the friend group).