Hodinkee
Essays: In My First Year In Watches, One Brand Stood Above The Rest
Navigating my first year in the watch world by holding onto what felt familiar.
Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Essays: Could The Most Radical Innovation In Watchmaking For 2026 Be A Paintbrush?
As watchmaking pushes toward ever-smaller technological gains, the most meaningful innovation might be preserving the crafts that can't be automated.
Monochrome
First Look – Save the Date, with the new Serica Ref. 5330 Dive Chronometer
This is an endless debate in the small circle of watch enthusiasts… Should a dive watch be equipped with a date or not? Purists, sometimes slightly biased in their judgments, will tell you in a very strict manner that no, a date has no place on the dial of a dive or tool watch! “Who […]
Time+Tide
The OG reverse-panda returns: the new Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B01 42 “Reverse-Panda”
Breitling has been on a roll of late, refreshing its old designs, and bringing back the original reverse panda is proof of that.The post The OG reverse-panda returns: the new Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B01 42 “Reverse-Panda” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges
And just like that, it’s Super Watch Season. Every year we see a handful of watches that come to market that exist for the purpose of displaying the absolute pinnacle of what a brand can accomplish. Think of ultra complicated watches from Vacheron Constantin released in recent years, or pieces from Greubel Forsey focused on extravagant hand finishing and machining. The new release from Girard-Perregaux feels like a member of this rare category. The new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges combines a tourbillon and a minute repeater with GP’s famous “Three Bridges” movement architecture. The highlight here, beyond the rarity of a repeater, is that the new Calibre GP9530 is a self-winding movement (via a micro-rotor), which is exceedingly rare among chiming watches and, to a lesser extent, tourbillons. Girard-Perregaux has a long history in chiming watches that dates back to the 1820s, and the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is fashioned as a tribute to those earliest repeaters, while being unapologetically contemporary in its design. Certainly part of that tribute is in the craftsmanship itself, and in the use of the most modern technology available to create the best chiming mechanism possible. To that end, the movement has been radically skeletonized not only for aesthetic reasons but to prioritize resonance. According to the brand, every technical choice made in the development of the new watch was made in the name of optimizing the sound of the chime. For a repeat...
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THE COOLEST DRESS WATCH UNDER $2000 / KURONO TOKI UNBOXING
Fratello
Breitling Introduces The Stylish Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42
One of my all-time favorite chronographs is the Breitling Top Time ref. 810. It’s a stunning classic hailing from a long line of legendary reverse-panda chronographs that Breitling produced in the ’50s and ’60s. I could easily create a list of 5–10 of my Breitling favorites from that era, so when the brand announces a […] Visit Breitling Introduces The Stylish Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Farer’s new 35mm Cushion Case Models, the Furneaux and Belzoni
Across its three-handers, GMTs, and even moonphase watches, the indie British brand has built a catalogue full of lively dials while keeping its Swiss-made watches at an accessible price point. That said, it is perhaps safe to say Farer has hardly been shy about colour. Most models stick to the round case, though the brand […]
Fratello
Girard-Perregaux’s Latest Masterpiece: The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges
Girard-Perregaux isn’t waiting around for us to visit the upcoming April festivities in Geneva to release new watches. Instead, the legendary brand is getting a jump on the competition with an incredible introduction. Today, we look at an all-new in-house creation, the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges. Girard-Perregaux is one of those names that will always […] Visit Girard-Perregaux’s Latest Masterpiece: The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is starting the year with an ambitious new calibre inside the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, the in-house GP9530. Also equipped with a tourbillon, the symmetrical, skeleton movement is a micro-rotor automatic, making for an exciting pairing of complications. Notably, even during GP’s heyday as a manufacture, it depended on specialists for its repeater movements. The GP9530 is the brand’s first in-house minuter repeating calibre (though it does borrow from an earlier striking movement created with the help of a complications specialist). The strikework is exposed on the dial, while the reverse reveals the winding mechanism under circular bridges. Initial thoughts In the past couple of years GP has been slowly making a comeback, after a few slow years, as a serious and motivated manufacture. The comeback started with the release of the reworked constant-force escapement and accelerated with last year’s unveiling of the workhorse GP4800 and the GP9620 skeleton tourbillon. This is in some ways a return to form. Historically GP was a powerhouse in this respect, making complicated movements under its own name as well as supplying movements, both complex and simple, to other high-end brands. At that time, however, GP still did source repeater movements from the likes of Christophe Claret. In time, the evolution of the industry reduced the need for such outsourced movements, and the marquee’s lustre dulled. The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges and its ...
Fratello
Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four
Tell me, do you prefer bebop over cool jazz, fusion over hard bop, or are you more the swing type? No matter the answer, the top artists in any of these genres can be considered jazz masters. Now, please welcome to the stage the Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! Eight watches in two sizes with six […] Visit Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four to read the full article.
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CRAZIEST BEZEL EVER - Unboxing the MOST ORIGINAL and BEST LUMED watch of 2021! Nove Atlantean!
Worn & Wound
Otsuka Lotec Introduces the No. 8, a New Design Inspired by Abbey Road Mixing Consoles Featuring Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute Displays
Otsuka Lotec has emerged as one of the most exciting Japanese independent brands, a corner of the enthusiast world that is greatly expanding at the moment. Otsuka Lotec has found a niche with (mostly) affordable watches with a steampunk aesthetic, with lots of exposed gearing and an overtly mechanical look and feel. I’m an owner of the No. 5 Kai, and it’s one of the most satisfying watches in my collection – there’s really nothing else quite like it, at least under $10,000. Prior to this week, the latest release from the brand was an ultra high end complicated piece with a tourbillon and chiming mechanism with a retail price soaring into the low six figures, but they’ve returned to earth with the all new No. 8, which once again combines complications unexpectedly and gives the wearer a unique view of the mechanism inside. Like the haute horlogerie adjacent No. 9 linked above, the No. 8 features a square case fashioned from stainless steel. Time is read via a jumping hour display on the left side of the dial, and a retrograde minute display on the right (there is also a running seconds indicator at roughly the 12:00 position). Figuring out how to read the time when you first encounter a watch like this is part of the fun, but once you grasp what’s going on, it’s quite intuitive. The current hour and minute are easy to see at a glance if you look for the red indicators that correspond to each. A video posted on Otsuka Lotec’s YouTube channel makes the drama...
Monochrome
Tudor Predictions 2026 – The New Models Tudor Might Launch at Watches and Wonders 2026
As you might know, Tudor, Rolex’s sister company, was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf (the founder of Rolex) and is thus celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. And for that reason, we can expect big things coming from the Rose. At least, that’s what we think the brand should do. We don’t often make […]
Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa
As Watches & Wonders approaches, I find myself thinking back to last year’s fair and the various high and lowlights from that crop of releases. I’ve commented before about a pretty big highlight of last year’s show being Parmigiani Fleurier’s output, particularly their very strong Toric perpetual calendar. This is one of those watches that I rarely go a week without thinking about, like the woman in the white dress that Bernstein remembers from the ferry in Citizen Kane. Anyway, Parmigiani is always a fun meeting at Watches & Wonders and my expectations are high after last year. In what I imagine will be their last release before the show next month, the brand has just introduced a new pink colorway to the Tonda PF line in 36mm. I’m not sure if we can consider this a preview of things to come (honestly, we probably can’t) but it’s a strong release nonetheless further bolsters the Tonda PF platform as an important player in the integrated bracelet sports watch landscape. The new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa brings a lighter dial color to the steel version of the 36mm Tonda PF for the first time – previously this watch had been available in blue and two shades of gray. Pink dials of course are often associated with watches targeted toward a female clientele, but hopefully the greater watch collecting community has moved beyond these types of prohibitive norms around gender and watch preferences. This is a really attractive color that can be worn by a...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B, Deeper and Darker Across 9 Layers
“Kollokium is not a brand. As pretentious and cliché as that sounds, it’s true.” So, how could we define Kollokium? It’s a collaborative project between three friends, all fairly established names within the watch industry: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile). Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking, and especially branding, Kollokium frees itself […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater
Over-the-top watchmaking meets a design full of character for a showcase of the brand at its best.
Video
The Zelos Watches Mirage 2 marks the future of the pilot's watch in titanium damascus
Worn & Wound
A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties
I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart. With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Otsuka Lotec No. 8 (Live Photos)
Inspired by the mixing consoles of the iconic Abbey Road Studios, the new Otsuka Lotec No. 8 features a uniquely inventive design.
Monochrome
Introducing – Otsuka Lotec Presents its New Creation, the No.8 Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute
Otsuka Lotec… The Japanese brand (or should we call it an atelier) that makes some noise in the global watch collecting community, despite being unavailable outside of Japan – which might partially explain its popularity. A true JDM sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned self-taught, independent watchmaker, specialised […]
Time+Tide
Lorca’s Model No.2 Chronograph raises the bar for vintage-inspired chronographs
Lorca's new Model No.2 is a stunning example of a heritage-inspired, triple-register chronograph done right.The post Lorca’s Model No.2 Chronograph raises the bar for vintage-inspired chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Best Affordable Omega Speedmasters Under €5,000
As we all know, the ever-increasing retail prices of watches have bumped some of our very favorite models to new heights. This also applies to the Omega Speedmaster (Professional). The new Speedmaster Professional “Reverse Panda” will set you back over €10k, the white-dial Speedmaster “Craig White” is €9k, and the standard version with the Hesalite […] Visit The Best Affordable Omega Speedmasters Under €5,000 to read the full article.
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The Watch that DEFIES the Laws of Physics...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Sensible New Mido Commander Datoday
When it comes to finding a solid, accessible yet appealing watch meant to be a reliable companion for most of the moments in your life, from the office to the weekend fun, the choice is wide, to say the least. With its Commander collection, Swiss brand Mido has a strong alternative, with a modern, sleek […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Junghans Gets Serious About Diving with the new Aquaris Series
Junghans is better known for its Bauhaus-inspired pieces, such as the Max Bill series, but the German watchmaker has also ventured into the pilots’ and sports territories. With the new Aquaris series, the brand expands its Sport collection by adding four new references: the Aquaris Diver with green or orange accents, and the more lifestyle-oriented […]
Time+Tide
The Depancel Série RO1 x DAMS Lucas Oil Limited Edition brings a twist to an iconic look
Depancel, a French watchmaker specializing in automotive-inspired timepieces, has partnered with DAMS Lucas Oil for the 2026 season.The post The Depancel Série RO1 x DAMS Lucas Oil Limited Edition brings a twist to an iconic look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks
Look, I’m not going to say that I have all the answers here, people, but if there’s one thing I know how to spot, it’s a good notebook. While taxes may send me into a tailspin and I enter a fugue state any time that I’m forced to load the dishwasher, I can confidently say that if you want your notes written down and you want to carry around something that’s aesthetically pleasing…well, I’ll humbly say that I’m your guy for the right answer. Partially, my knowledge of notebooks is collateral damage because of my job – it doesn’t take a rocket scientist (or even someone who knows how to load a dishwasher) to see a job in pens has given me a deep understanding for what one writes with as much as what one writes on. To this effect, I have a general knowledge of the pros and cons of legal pads versus Moleskines, washi tape versus Scotch. But that stuff can be found fairly easily – Reddit, for better or worse, is a gold mine of information on stationery. But the other reason I find myself knowing about stationery is, quite simply, it’s a passion of mine. While some may find something akin to passion in their marriage or by binge watching Heated Rivalry, I’m much more likely to get butterflies ripping the cellophane off a new notebook versus ripping – you get the picture. This is all to say that, when I tell you Plotter makes some of the most beautiful notebook covers out there, you need to believe me. And when I tell you that pricetag flirting somewhe...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Impressions about the Tudor Ranger 36mm, Including the new Dune White Dial
If you’ve been reading MONOCHROME for some time now, you might know that I have a very strong connection with the Rolex Explorer 36mm, in particular the 1990s reference 14270. Not only is it a watch that I consider to be the perfect example of what a yougntimer is, but it’s also, in my books, […]
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