1,015 articles · 36 videos found · page 22 of 36
Monochrome
Following the natural path an hour or minute hand takes over a dial, in most watches, at least, it’s a simple fact of form-follows-function that the vast majority of watches are round. But what if you want to stand out a bit and play around with shapes and sizes? Well, to answer what could happen […]
Monochrome
When A. Lange & Söhne first revealed the Zeitwerk in 2009, it marked a bold break from convention. A high-end Saxon watch that abandoned the familiar hands-on-dial format in favour of a purely mechanical digital time display, large jumping numerals for the hours and minutes, powered by an ingenious constant-force escapement. Since its introduction, the […]
Fratello
Why is there a Rolex GMT-Master II in the picture when this story is about quirky GMT watches? Well, that’s because no matter how far off the beaten GMT path you stray - Rolex set the path with a 12-hour dial combined with a 24-hour hand and a 24-hour bezel, and nearly everybody followed - […] Visit Quirky GMT Watches From Parmigiani, Papar, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The signature complication of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Spin Time is a jump hours with a twist that is now 16 years now. Earlier this year, the complication was given a major technical and aesthetic update with an all-new collection, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, featuring a new case and a new movement family – both developed and produced in-house. The flagship model is the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon that combines the jumping hours with a central flying tourbillon – a logical use of the peripheral arrangement of the time display. Though the most complicated (and expensive) of the line, the Flying Tourbillon has all of the key elements of the Tambour Taiko, including the redesigned case and a new movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s Geneva watch manufacture. Initial thoughts Whether or not you like the watches themselves, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection is a statement of intent by Louis Vuitton. The brand has made substantial investment in vertical integration and manufacturing, essentially watchmaking, and the Tambour Taiko line-up is proof of that. More specifically, the family of movements that underpins the Tambour Taiko illustrates the industrial-haute horlogerie capability that Louis Vuitton has developed in a relatively short period of time, the very sort of competence required to build a high-end watch brand at scale. The movements in the Tambour Taiko collection now number three, but are all part of the s...
Worn & Wound
Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...
Hodinkee
More than just an updated color, the watch features a new function perfect for the 24-hour race.
Deployant
Another entry into the 24 hour racing watch genre. This time by Stowa, reknown for their value for money timepieces, in collaboration with ABT Sportline.
Time+Tide
The new Breitling Top Time B31 distills the model down to time and date essentials, with colourful contrast dials and a new 78-hour calibre.The post The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Over the last three years or so, as the idea of the “micro indie” has gained steam in our hobby, SpaceOne has been on the bleeding edge of this movement. Their first two releases perfectly capture every element of what we love about this type of watchmaking: inventive case designs, clever movements, the interesting use of materials, and, importantly, a price point that welcomes enthusiasts rather than shutting them out. The Jump Hour and Tellurium impressed on these fronts and more, and the brand’s third release, a worldtimer that they’ve been quietly showing to clients and press over the last few months, continues the brand’s impressive run, and cements their status as a leading indie brand, micro or otherwise. The new SpaceOne WorldTimer once again pairs watchmaker Theo Auffret with designer Olivier Gamiette. The case has an oblong shape that’s somewhat reminiscent (in broad strokes, at least) of their Jump Hour debut, but is quite a bit more complex. It mixes sci-fi, spaceship influences with subtle automotive design influences, and a multi-window display that will make some fans of independent watchmaking think of names like Vianney Halter and other similarly adventurous icons of the contemporary indie scene. This is one of those watches that no matter how experienced you are with these things, it kind of needs to be “taught” on some level, but once you understand what you’re looking at, it’s fairly intuitive. Here’s how it works. In a move th...
Teddy Baldassarre
The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background: The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...
Fratello
In its original form, the Amida Digitrend is already quite an impressive wristwatch. Its unusual shape and size make it the perfect conversation starter. And that’s not even considering the dial with the sapphire prism and the jump-hour module behind it. Well, get ready for an even bolder iteration because here’s the new Amida Digitrend […] Visit The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Known for its quirky pixelated dials and brutalist die-cast cases, Kollokium has introduced the Projekt 01 Variant F, which takes the brand’s signature dial and elevates it with hundreds of individual Lichtblock lume elements. The violet lume elements feature various sizes and heights, and are clustered around the even-numbered hour markers to provide a degree of legibility. It’s a striking look, especially when the lights go out and the lume can truly shine. Founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium has released a total of six models since inception. All models to-date have used roughly the same 40 mm die-cast steel case and the same basic design concept. The Variant F is a limited edition of 399 pieces and will be available directly from Kollokium and its authorised dealers in June 2025. Initial thoughts After years collecting watches, it’s easy to feel like every new watch is a remake of something else, because for many brands, especially towards the lower end of the price spectrum, that tends to be true. So it’s refreshing when a new brand like Kollokium manages to create a recognisable and distinctive aesthetic from day 1. The Variant F features the same 40 mm die-cast steel case as previous Kollokium models, but the water resistance has been increased from 30 m to 50 m. To clear the taller hand stack, the box-shaped crystal is also a bit higher, adding about a millimeter to the overall height, which is now 11.95 mm. The choice...
Worn & Wound
We covered the introduction of Gagà Laboratorio back in August of last year, and have remained curious about how this new independent brand with Italian roots would evolve. Their first models, the Labormatic Bauhaus and Labormatic Cinquanta, paired a highly considered case design defined by dramatically flared lugs with a creative timetelling format that riffs heavily on the classic jump hour. Each watch represented the flipside of the same coin: the Bauhaus subtle and minimal, the Cinquanta more light and colorful. The brand’s latest releases are a new pair of Labormatics that follow a similar theme. First up, the Labormatic Champagne. This watch was conceived as something of a counterpoint to the minimalist design ethos of the Bauhaus model. The Champagne, as the name of the watch implies, is celebratory where the Bauhaus is subdued, trading clean and cold grays for vibrant gold tones, including deeply textured dial base. On this reference, as with the Bauhaus, time is told via a digital hours window at the 12:00 position and an analog minute display. Gagà Laboratorio has also introduced the Labormatic Azzuro, which can be understood as a complement to last year’s Cinquanta. Both watches are inspired by Italian design from the 1950s, which was a notably colorful period following the tumult of World War II. The pastel blue tones seen here look great with the rich, wine red chosen for the stylized Arabic numerals in the hour and minute tracks. Once again, the hou...
Quill & Pad
Niclas has arranged to meet the seller of a platinum Rolex Day-Date at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. If all goes well, the watch transaction should be completed within an hour the he would catch the next flightto Stockholm. What makes him nervous is that the deal is to be done in cryptocurrency. But that's not what went wrong.
Monochrome
Beaubleu is a young brand founded in 2017, but it quickly established a unique style with circular hour, minute and seconds hands within a round case. Designed and assembled in Paris, the watches have a style that’s unmistakably Beaubleu. The latest collection, Ecce Figura, follows its round Ecce collection from 2023 and presents the circular […]
Monochrome
Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]
SJX Watches
A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process. Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements. Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing. The watch itself is pre...
Fratello
CIGA Design produces watches that are different from the norm. It’s immediately apparent that this isn’t the typical timekeeper with central hour and minute hands. The round, UFO-like cases also stand out in a futuristic way. Now we see two new models that represent a departure from prior pieces. The Legend of Serpent editions use […] Visit Introducing: The New CIGA Design Legend Of Serpent to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Breitling launches a premium limited edition 24-hour Navitimer in platinum to celebrate astronaut Scott Carpenter and the first Swiss wristwatch in space.
Fratello
As watch fans, we’re used to brands and timepieces being attached to impressive feats. Some examples are jumping from planes, diving to ridiculous depths, and shooting off into space. Now Fears has opted to sponsor the Great British Odyssey, an attempt by record-setting ocean rower Angus Collins to row unassisted around the United Kingdom. The […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40 Odyssey Edition And Experimental 01 to read the full article.
Fratello
I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.
Fratello
The Montblanc 0 Oxygen series celebrates explorers and mountaineers. These robust watches often feature worldtimer functionality and a second 12-hour time display. Today’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition does too, but it also brings impressive dial-making techniques and advanced materials. With a name like Montblanc, it makes sense that the brand pays […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate. 8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome. I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes. A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...
Monochrome
The latest watch in the very appealing Hermès Cut collection is more than just a jump from 36mm to 39mm, as it adds the ability to “suspend time” (Le Temps Suspendu) with a complication first seen in the 2011 Arceau collection. At the press of a button, the hour and minute hands move into a […]
SJX Watches
Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...
Worn & Wound
It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models. The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...
Hodinkee
Cartier's jump hour makes a triumvirate return after a 20-year hiatus (and scratches that vintage itch better than almost anything else).
Monochrome
Patek Philippe introduces a new and powerful manual-winding calibre for the equally new Calatrava 8 Day Ref. 5328G. As you have gleaned from the name, the new twin barrel movement delivers an impressive 192-hour or 8-day power reserve. While the watch is officially a Calatrava, it shares traits with the more casual aesthetic of the […]
Monochrome
Gerd R. Lang, the founder of Chronoswiss, developed a distinctive design language featuring old-school regulators, jumping hours, knurled bezels, large onion crowns and screwed lugs. In the hands of the Ebstein family since 2012, Chronoswiss has maintained the regulator and other traditional displays but injected new life into its collections with a bold mix of […]
Fratello
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.
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