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Bremont Expands the Terra Nova Jumping Hour with a New 35mm Size and Fresh Variants

The field-watch-inspired montre à guichet gets a smaller footprint and more options in 2025

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale Monochrome
De Bethune DB25 Digitale De Bethune Sep 3, 2026

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale

De Bethune, a co-founder of Geneva Watch Days, returns for the seventh edition with a beautiful piece that revisits the brand’s digital time display. Featured across various models, the first digital display appeared in 2006 with a sophisticated in-line calendar displaying the day, date and month, with jumping hours and a scrolling minute disc. Equipped […]

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style SJX Watches
De Bethune Revives Sep 2, 2026

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style

One of De Bethune’s earliest models was a jumping hours wristwatch and now the brand has returned to concept with the DB25 Digitale. While largely similar to the earlier version in terms of function, the latest Digitale is presented in a new format. This is the third iteration of the Digitale – the second was introduced some 12 years ago – and the most elaborate yet in decorative terms. The case is in the wearable DB25 style, but the dial is decorated with the brand’s hallmark techniques, wavy guilloche and star-studded heat-blued titanium. Initial thoughts The DB25 Digitale revives one of De Bethune’s initial concepts, the “digital” time display, but now presented in the De Bethune greatest-hits livery of expansive blued titanium decorated with both the sea and the stars. With its striking, high-contrast colours, the new Digitale looks more current than its predecessor that carried something of an Art Deco pocket watch aesthetic. Admittedly, the DB25 Digitale is a cosmetic makeover and doesn’t add much novelty in technical terms. But it is still very much up to date in technical terms, illustrating the remarkable technical innovation, driven by Denis Flageollet, which continues to serve as De Bethune’s foundations. The DB2144V3 movement remains a sophisticated calibre even though it’s over two decades old. In fact, it arguably boasts substantially more technical content that “new” movements recently debuted by startup independent watchmakers. At CH...

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag Returns Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time

What We Know Tudor's North Flag has always been something of an outlier. It was originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld and was the first Tudor to feature one of the brand's in-house movements. Only ever available in two specs, on a bracelet or on a leather strap, the North Flag (91210N) was discontinued in 2021. Today, the Northflag (now one word) returns, evolving the 2015 offering with a single reference that sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone.  The new Northflag, ref. 9140G1A0U, uses 316L stainless steel for its 40mm case and integrated bracelet. The case is 12.7mm thick and 48.8mm lug-to-lug. Compared with the 40 x 13.3 x 50mm of the original North Flag, this new model should be more compatible with smaller wrists thanks to its more compact dimensions. The water resistance is 100 meters, and it has a domed sapphire crystal up front and a display caseback.  Inside, and viewable via that display caseback, is Tudor's MT5652-U automatic movement. It's a 4Hz METAS-certified Master Chronometer with a stated accuracy of -0 to +5 seconds/day. For those keeping track, this is the same second time zone-equipped movement found in the Pelagos FXD GMT. Both the date and the GMT function are set via the crown, and adjusting the second time zone is done by jumping the local hour hand to a new time zone (such as when you land at your destination) in standard "flyer" GMT functionality.  Like its predecessor, the second-gen Northflag's dial is black, with minimal text an...

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 1, 2026

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches Fratello
Ming Aug 31, 2026

Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches

With the Italian summer coming to an end, HTD is just in time to grace us with new colors for its Aquatìc divers for one last jump into the warm Mediterranean waters. But before jumping in, you first have to choose from the seven new variations joining the lineup. Don’t worry, though; it’s not as […] Visit Living La Dolce Vita: New Colors For The HTD Aquatìc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches to read the full article.

Why Is Everything Inverted? SJX Watches
Voutilainen 28TI Aug 25, 2026

Why Is Everything Inverted?

At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Aug 21, 2026

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities

I take IWC’s latest Le Petit Prince chronographs for a hands-on review to discover how two materials completely transform the same design. What We Love Eye-catching white ceramic case and deep-blue dial contrast Ceramic model is lightweight and comfortable to wear, despite its substantial dimensions Two distinct personalities across ceramic and steel What We Don’t Full white ceramic edition lacks everyday versatility Both models are still relatively thick on the wrist 46 hour power reserve is modest by modern watchmaking standards. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.7/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 To mark 20 years of its collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC expands its Le Petit Prince lineup with new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph editions in stainless steel and white ceramic. This was one of IWC’s main themes for Watches & Wonders 2026, with a wide range of models carrying the signature Le Petit Prince design. There are few collections as closely connected to IWC’s modern identity as the Pilot’s Watch, which carries a design inspired by the functional appearance of cockpit instrumentation. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph then combines this aviation-inspired design with one of IWC’s best-known mechanical strengths in watchmaking: chronographs. IWC Schaffhausen’s connection to the story of Le Petit Prince began in 2006, when the Swiss watchmaker started collaborating with the descendants of Fren...

Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity Fratello
Aug 12, 2026

Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity

Grøne introduces the Horologium, a new manual-winding timepiece available in two different versions, “Something Quirky” and “Something Classic.” Both watches come in a 39mm stainless steel case and feature small seconds, a Swiss-made manual-winding movement by La Joux-Perret, a 60-hour power reserve, and 5 ATM of water resistance. Limited to 188 pieces per version, the […] Visit Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity to read the full article.

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy SJX Watches
Aug 10, 2026

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy

Sometime around 1949, in a workshop above a stationer’s shop in Carouge, Louis Cottier built a worldtime watch out of a piece of cardboard. Movado had asked him to fit their famous Ermeto — a small purse-watch that was wound by opening and closing its case — with a device to read the hour in any country. What Cottier delivered was a piece of card: two columns listing the 12 antipodal city pairs, with a sliding paper scale of hours. Open the case, slide the scale, read New York against Rome. It was ingenious to a fault. Movado’s verdict was blunt, and fair: it ignored the running of the watch entirely and “…could just as well be made on an address-book or a diary,” they wrote on February 4, 1950. The brand concluded that “Nobody would want to carry such a piece.” The 1949 World Time cardboard maquette proposed to Movado. Image – SJX composite/Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève The cardboard maquette survives, in an archive of some 260 items — letters, patents, notebooks, photographs, a school exercise book, a golf-scoring mechanism — that comprise the most complete record we have of the man the watch world calls the father of the worldtimer. But the story revealed by this evidence is more nuanced than Cottier’s reputation suggests. The legend, briefly The received Louis Cottier is easy to summarise, because everyone summarises him the same way. He was born in Carouge in 1894, and trained in Geneva. After losing his job in the aftermath of th...

Hands-on - The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic, Poetic Time Measurement at the Speed of Light Monochrome
Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Poetic Aug 5, 2026

Hands-on - The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic, Poetic Time Measurement at the Speed of Light

Since its debut in 2019, the UR-100 Series has become one of Urwerk‘s most approachable and recognisable creations. “Approachable” is, of course, a relative term in terms of price, yet it is true regarding wearability. The UR-100 features the brand’s signature wandering-hour satellite display, but unlike the more extravagant EMC, UR-120 or UR-230, it packages […]

Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT WatchRider
Seiko s 5 Sports GMT Aug 2, 2026

Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT

Timex has given the Deepwater Meridian 200 a new job. The 42mm diver-style watch is now an automatic GMT, with a fourth hand and a bidirectional 24-hour ceramic bezel instead of a conventional elapsed-time scale. The colour references are black TW2Y63900, blue TW2Y64000 and green TW2Y64100. Black is the most restrained choice, blue has a cooler nautical character, and green brings the most personality without turning the watch into a novelty. Each version pairs its dial with a coordinating bezel, so the colour feels deliberate rather than decorative. Announced on 31 July 2026, this is genuinely new rather than a model that has quietly lived on retailers’ shelves for months. The personality is familiar, but the specification changes are enough to make this more than a new colourway. Black TW2Y63900. Image: Timex. Blue TW2Y64000. Image: Timex. Green TW2Y64100. Image: Timex. A diver for someone who avoids deep water I am afraid of deep water but rather fond of diver-style watches, which is a little like loving hiking while avoiding cliffs. I like their neat engineering, their tough appearance, and the fact that I can admire a 200-metre rating without personally testing it anywhere below the shallow end. Timex specifies 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, screw-on case back and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, a magnified date, and a red GMT hand. The steel case is 42mm across, 14.5mm thick and 48...

Mido Multifort 8 One Crown Goes Fully Black in PVD WatchRider
Mido Multifort 8 One Crown Jul 31, 2026

Mido Multifort 8 One Crown Goes Fully Black in PVD

Mido has added a full-black version to the Multifort 8 One Crown range for summer 2026. Reference M055.507.37.051.00 takes the angular case and simple three-hand layout of the existing model and gives almost every exterior part a black finish. The result is much darker than the steel versions, but the polished hands, raised hour markers and white date display keep it easy to read. This is not just a new dial colour. Mido has applied black PVD to the 316L stainless-steel case, bezel, crown and pin buckle, then paired the watch with a fitted black rubber strap. It changes the character of the Multifort 8 One Crown without changing the practical dimensions or the Caliber 80 automatic movement that made the original model interesting. The black PVD coating still allows the brushed and polished case surfaces to stand apart. From two crowns to one The Multifort name dates back to 1934, when Mido used it for a watch designed around automatic winding, water resistance, resistance to magnetism and protection against shocks. The current Multifort 8 family carries that practical idea into a much more modern shape. The first Multifort 8 design used two crowns, including one to operate an internal rotating bezel. The One Crown removes that extra control and the internal timing scale. That gives the dial more room, reduces visual clutter and makes the case slimmer. It also turns the watch into a straightforward hours-minutes-seconds model with a date window, which will make more sense f...

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name Monochrome
Jul 30, 2026

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name

Few now remember the Swiss watchmaking name Sicura. Founded in Grenchen in 1939, the brand enjoyed success during the 1960s and 1970s under Ernest Schneider, producing affordable, unconventional watches that combined unusual functions with bold styling. Sicura experimented with everything from compressor-style divers and jump-hour displays to LED watches, solar-powered and multi-function tool watches, all […]

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack SJX Watches
Singer Jul 28, 2026

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack

Having made its name with auto-racing central chronographs, Singer Reimagined recently debuted its first-ever GMT, the DualTrack. Retaining the aesthetic established by Singer’s chronographs, the DualTrack is a straightforward “caller” dual-time watch with a local time display and independent 24-hour ring. On the back, however, the DualTrack reveals its party trick: a manual wind movement with four visible barrels that combine for six days of power reserve. Developed by an unnamed specialist (that is probably Chronode), the ST5001 has four mainsprings spread out across the movement with the balance hoisted above them, making for an unusual construction and layout. Initial thoughts I like Singer’s original proposition of racing-inspired central chronographs, which are true to the brand’s origins as an offshoot of the cult Porsche 911 mod specialist, Singer Vehicle Design. The Track 1 chronograph was a good debut concept backed by an innovative movement. The DualTrack is similar, but simpler, more affordable, and also more practical. The DualTrack still has the retro-inspired, cushion-shaped case that’s approximately the same as that on the chronograph, making it a little chunky, but the size feels appropriate for a sports watch. It also feels good on the wrist; in contrast, the smaller Caballero with the same base movement feels too small. But instead of a central chronograph, the DualTrack has a pair of useful features: a second time zone and a long power reser...

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite SJX Watches
Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite

The Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite adds five panels of blue semi-precious stone to the brand’s flagship bracelet watch. It is a worthwhile extension of the collection that draws on an authentic Piaget speciality and gives the revived Polo 79 a stronger identity of its own. Initial thoughts Stone dials are now widespread, to the point that any new watch with a mineral dial feels a bit like an exercise in jumping on the bandwagon. But Piaget has been making watches with semiprecious stone dials since the 1960s, and helped establish the category altogether. As a result, the Polo 79 feels authentically Piaget, even though stone dials are now commonplace enough to seem generic. The case dimensions and build quality are unchanged — at 38 mm wide and 7.45 mm high, the Polo 79 remains compact and elegant, while the full white gold case and bracelet give it a heavy, dignified feel. The alternating brushed surfaces and polished gadroons are naturally finished to a high standard, and the rhodium plating will ensure the colour of the 18k white gold stays cool and bright indefinitely, even if it makes later refinishing a little more complicated. The watch is powered by the latest in a long lineage of Piaget micro-rotor calibres that reaches back more than 60 years. It’s still one of the thinnest automatic movements in the world, though it comes up a little short on power reserve by today’s standards, at 44 hours. Otherwise identical to the white gold Polo 79, the sodalite dial adds ab...

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Parmigiani Fleurier (PF) continues its exploration of “mysterious complications” with the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux, a fully functional and surprisingly legible chronograph that is indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch — until it isn’t. Pressing the conveniently placed chronograph monopusher summons a chronograph on demand, fully equipped with central minutes and hour totalisers, which disappears just as easily. Despite being one of the most ambitious chronographs on the market, it is priced relatively accessibly, at least in steel. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Chronographe Mystérieux is nearly indistinguishable from a normal three-hand watch, unless you spot the pair of rose gold hands secreted under the mean time hands. Depressing the chronograph button at eight o’clock causes these, along with the sweep seconds hand, to fly back to zero and being timing intervals up to 12 hours. The concept is not unlike that of the Maurice Lacroix Memoire 1, little-known halo piece that debuted in 2007 for EUR300,000. The Chronographe Mystérieux would work the same way without its hour and minutes hands, but their presence ensures the user can still read the time when the chronograph is running. The result is a highly legible dial, enhanced with an almost excessively fine grain d’orge guilloché that, like the undersized 18k gold hour markers, gets out of the way of the hands. At launch, PF offers two variants of the Chronographe Mystérieux ...

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Jul 7, 2026

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass has announced the return of IAMWATCH, the retailer’s indie-focused watch fair, slated to take place November 12-15 at the Singapore Edition hotel, with public days November 13-15. The event comes two years after the successful inaugural edition, hinting at the possibility of a biennial format akin to that of Dubai Watch Week. Focused on independent watchmaking The inaugural 2024 event featured the biggest names in independent watchmaking, including foundational figures like Kari Voutilainen and Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as the leading lights of the younger generation including Rexhep Rexhepi, Raúl Pagès, and Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann. The second edition is set to be even larger, with more makers in attendance. Attendees can expect to encounter industry executives as well — Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Max Büsser, and Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver attended the first edition. It’s also sure to be one of the year’s best opportunities for watch spotting — this Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature was seen at the event in 2024. The relaxed dress code explicitly encourages double wristing, so the chances of spotting a unicorn in the wild are doubled. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily November 13-15, however, advance registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

Introducing - The Bremont Terra Nova HRR Chronograph in Regatta Colours Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova HRR Chronograph Jun 30, 2026

Introducing - The Bremont Terra Nova HRR Chronograph in Regatta Colours

Since its introduction in 2024, we have seen the Terra Nova collection grow with bronze cases, a compact pink-dial watch, and many more interesting pieces like the tactical all-black model with the jumping hours complication. Now, we have another one adding to the Terra Nova Chronograph series. Bremont signed on as Official Timing Partner of […]

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm) Hodinkee
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Now Jun 25, 2026

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm)

What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...