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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants Time+Tide
Aug 22, 2022

Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants

I’m fairly certain that the E, T, A, 2, 8 and 4 keys on my keyboard have faded more than others. Despite their claims of no longer supplying off-the-shelf movements, ETA still has a significant stronghold on Swiss movement manufacture, partly due to supplying the Swatch Group. This makes it incredibly difficult for any newcomers … ContinuedThe post Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 watchmaking manufactures you need to know Time+Tide
May 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 watchmaking manufactures you need to know

‘Manufacture’ is one of those watchmaking buzzwords you hear fairly frequently. Basically, it’s a fancy word for factory, but in the slow-moving and hallowed halls of horology it’s so much more. Think airy, well-lit rooms with highly skilled watchmakers investing countless hours on minute details most will never see. A far cry from the typical … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 5 watchmaking manufactures you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does Oct 27, 2025

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, and debrief on the new Piaget Andy Warhol. It’s also the debut of a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Introducing – The New Dial Colour of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding and Moon Phase Retrograde Date Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Dial Colour of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding and Moon Phase Retrograde Date

As the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production since 1755, Vacheron Constantin can be proud of its distinguished heritage. With a rich archive at its disposition, the brand can dip into over two and a half centuries for inspiration. The Patrimony collection made its debut in 2004 and turned its gaze back to the […]

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02 When Feb 6, 2020

Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02

When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...

Review: A Familiar Face – The Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726/1A Deployant
Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref Jun 17, 2019

Review: A Familiar Face – The Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726/1A

Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726/1A Patek Philippe is a high-end watch manufacturer synonymous with excellence. Two things it is famous for, among a myriad of other things, is the Nautilus sports watch and the annual calendar wristwatch. In 2016, Patek Philippe put two and two together and introduced the Nautilus Annual Calendar inRead More

News – All Together Now: Audemars Piguet Launches the Atelier des Établisseurs Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Launches Apr 17, 2026

News – All Together Now: Audemars Piguet Launches the Atelier des Établisseurs

Audemars Piguet launches the Atelier des Établisseurs, an ambitious project that resurrects the collaborative “établissage” system of late 18th-century watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux. Marking a novel way for the brand to produce remarkable watches using time-honoured traditional crafts, the Atelier des Établisseurs is a twofold enterprise that fosters creativity and collaboration while preserving […]

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? Fratello
Tudor ? - Jul 18, 2024

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer Worn & Wound
Casio ns Dec 12, 2023

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer

When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...

The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2023

The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA

Avoirdupois is a furniture and lighting company based in NYC The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is a 550-piece limited edition engineered and manufactured in Manhattan The integrated ultra-thin steel watch has an in-house calibre comprised of only domestic parts right down to the hairspring Some collectors get hung up about Swiss made. But, we have long … ContinuedThe post The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A return to the dapper dress watch with Swiss-manufactured debut brand, Fifty Eight Time+Tide
May 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: A return to the dapper dress watch with Swiss-manufactured debut brand, Fifty Eight

OK, I admit that I can be self-contradictory. While proclaiming last week that I enjoy the thrill of breaking established dress codes with a banged-up diver’s watch under a formal shirt sleeve, what I’m secretly longing for is the chance to dress up properly, and that does include the watch. In Norway we’re still semi-locked … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A return to the dapper dress watch with Swiss-manufactured debut brand, Fifty Eight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Ethical – Sports Casual Watch Quill & Pad
Chopard Alpine Eagle Nov 21, 2019

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Ethical – Sports Casual Watch

Stainless steel case, integrated bracelet in the same material, manufacture movement, and a blue dial: these are the ingredients for today's watches that people are willing to spend a significant premium to obtain. For many, this was also the first thought that went through heads when Chopard recently launched its new blue-dial, stainless steel, sporty watch, the Alpine Eagle. Martin Green looks beyond that pretty blue face after wearing it for a week and gives us his thoughts.