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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces Apr 20, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reintroduces the Master Control Collection and their “HPG” Designation

In addition to a barrage of ultra high end novelties, Jaeger-LeCoultre this week has introduced the new Master Control Chronometre collection, with a focus on chronometric elegance with watches featuring a sleek new integrated bracelet sports watch design. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a long history, of course, of not just pure movement making and horology, but in providing certainty behind their movements through the Master Control collection, which was a testing certification conducted in-house over 1,000 hours. The Master Control Chronometre collection continues that tradition while also filling a gap in the brand’s catalog: a (relatively) accessible everyday watch that is not a Reverso.  Before getting into the watches themselves, we’ll start with an overview of what “Master Control” really means in 2026. This collection reintroduces the brand’s “High Precision Guarantee” designation, which is an update of an old standard first used on JLC’s Calibre 916, their renowned 4 Hz caliber introduced in 1970. The new HPG designation evaluates performance across four metrics: altitude (certifying that the watch can withstand pressure up to 1004 meters above sea level, the altitude of the JLC manufacture), multi-directional shocks, testing in multiple positions, and variances across temperature. Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed new machinery to test for these conditions, which the brand says can simulate real world use over a long duration in just three days of actual tes...

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250 Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm Apr 20, 2026

Introducing – The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm and Khaki Field Mechanical 250

Founded in the United States and producing in Switzerland now, Hamilton returns to one of its lesser-seen military references with a new Khaki Field Mechanical watch, this time offered in two versions released side by side. On the one hand, the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm is a globally available model that brings back the design […]

My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm There’s Apr 19, 2026

My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm

There’s something refreshing about wearing a watch that doesn’t try too hard. In a world of oversized cases, aggressive designs, and spec lists that stretch into the stratosphere, a simple 35mm watch can feel almost rebellious. That’s exactly the impression I had after spending time with the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm, a watch that quietly […] Visit My Time With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier 35mm to read the full article.

Introducing – The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Now Apr 17, 2026

Introducing – The Two-Tone Zenith Chronomaster Sport, Now with a Mother-of-Pearl Dial

The Chronomaster Sport already has most of what you expect from a robust, modern sports chronograph, most often seen in stainless steel with a ceramic bezel. Beating inside is Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero movement, one of the best-known high-beat chronograph calibres out there. Alongside the full steel versions, Zenith has also pushed this design a […]

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC Deployant
IWC DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials

Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Dark Olive Green Ceramic Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Dark Olive Green Ceramic

When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]

The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line Fratello
Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons Apr 16, 2026

The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line

The new Piaget Polo Signature models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026 bring a historically inspired design element back to the contemporary Piaget Polo line. Two sets of his-and-hers versions and three rose gold variants get the gadroon treatment, a direct visual link to the original 1979 Polo concept. While it is perhaps a subtle […] Visit The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line to read the full article.

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends Apr 15, 2026

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch

Tudor celebrates 100 years and marks the occasion by launching the dressy Monarch. A more obscure model in the brand’s catalogue, the original Monarch was retired during the early 2000s. The model makes its return, with an emphasis on movement finishing and quality.  Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had their fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the ‘90s. The original Monarch was an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product.  The new Monarch fortunately has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements.    At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge.  Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a coarsely brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at 6 o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroughly sporty look.  The specific case shape is vintage-coded but benefits from modern execution techniques. The new bracelet shape is a welcome departure from Tudor’s usual Oyster-inspired straps and fits in wel...

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Reloaded - A Reworked Take On The Unico Chronograph Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Reloaded - Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Reloaded - A Reworked Take On The Unico Chronograph

The Big Bang Reloaded marks the next step in Hublot’s ongoing refinement of its flagship chronograph. Rather than a clean-sheet design, this new collection for Watches and Wonders 2026 revisits the openworked Big Bang Unico and re-engineers it from the inside out. This release feels like a logical follow-up to the earlier Big Bang models […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Reloaded - A Reworked Take On The Unico Chronograph to read the full article.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns for an Encore SJX Watches
Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns Apr 15, 2026

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns for an Encore

In a rather surprising move, Rolex unveiled a revamped and re-engineered version of the Yacht-Master II. Although the original was discontinued in 2024 the Geneva-based brand decided to give the quirky watch another chance at life, while also making the user’s life much easier with a more practical interface enhanced by a more appealing design. Initial thoughts The original Yacht-Master II was undoubtedly a polarising timepiece. People would either love the bulky aesthetics or instantly dismiss it as an unpalatable timepiece. Add to that the complicated Command Ring bezel programming sequence for the regatta timer and the result is a perhaps the quirkiest Rolex creation in modern times.  Apparently the timepiece was performing well enough to warrant an encore. The Yacht-Master II was thus updated to include both Rolex’s latest innovations (such as the Chronergy escapement) and a revised user interface.  In terms of aesthetics, the 44 mm timepiece is still hard to love at first, but definitely not as excessive as past versions. The biggest change was perhaps the shift to a regular bi-directional 60 minute click bezel, which replaced the cumbersome Command Ring system used previously.  The ten-minute countdown markings were moved to a raised flange on the dial. The regatta minutes and seconds hands now turn counterclockwise, a suggestive way of approaching countdown.  Although few Yacht-Master II pieces will realistically be used for yacht race timing, the complicati...

Watches & Wonders: Oris Reintroduces the Star, a True 1960s Throwback Worn & Wound
Oris Reintroduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Oris Reintroduces the Star, a True 1960s Throwback

One of the most interesting things to observe in recent years among brands that have been around for decades is how they handle reissuing vintage watches from their back catalog. Often, we see releases that seem to have been conceived in a boardroom by bean counters, with a lot of concessions to the original design made for modern consumers. This usually means making watches larger than they need to be, and using newer, higher performance materials when the old fashioned ones would have been just fine. So it’s a real treat when a brand releases a “new” old watch that is about as close to the original as possible.  That’s the vibe we’re getting from the new Oris Star Edition, a mostly faithful interpretation of one of the more important watches in the brand’s history, dating back to the 1960s. The original Star was the brand’s first watch with an in-house lever escapement, something that was only possible thanks to the overturning of the Swiss Watch Statute, a law originally introduced in the 1930s to counter anti competition measures taken by watch manufacturers during the years of the Great Depression. An unintended consequence of the statute was that it limited brands like Oris to using pin-lever escapements. The law was eventually repealed with the help of Rolf Portman, a lawyer employed by Oris and tasked with fighting the statute. Portman is now Oris’ Honorary Chairman.  Here we have a watch that is uncommonly true to the character of its vintage ins...

Watches & Wonders: Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Steel in Mineral Blue Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Steel in Mineral Blue

Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier had one of the strongest showings of any brand at Watches & Wonders, led by a pair of absolutely gorgeous, traditionally styled perpetual calendars. This is a brand that for me has been somewhat hard to get into, personally. While the quality of the watches themselves is never in question, I don’t always identify with the design choices, and think occasionally they lean a little too subtle for their own good. That’s why last year’s Toric Quantieme Perpetual was such a surprise. It’s not the kind of watch that usually lands in my wheelhouse, but I found that it was executed so perfectly that I just couldn’t ignore it.  This year’s big novelty for Parmigiani at Watches & Wonders takes an entirely different approach, but follows a pair of recent creations that have been much admired flagships for this current generation of the brand. The Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux follows the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante with a new complication that is hidden until called upon by the wearer, and in doing so have created a chronograph that is impossibly minimalist at first blush, with no obvious indications that it is, in fact, a chronograph.  That, of course, may or may not be appealing to you if you’re a chronograph fan. Part of the appeal of these watches for many is in how a chronograph naturally segments the dial and presents a variety of hopefully useful information in a cluster. The Chronograph Mystéri...

First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Super Freak, Quite Possibly the Most Complex Time-Only Watch Ever Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Super Freak Quite Possibly Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Super Freak, Quite Possibly the Most Complex Time-Only Watch Ever

Some watches follow the established path of horology, refining proportions, improving calibres, and adjusting aesthetics within well-defined and safe boundaries. And then some watches question nearly everything that is considered conventional and classic. When the Ulysse Nardin Freak was unveiled in 2001, it introduced a new design, a new movement, but it also proposed an […]

Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition Fratello
Oris Star Re-Edition Today Oris Apr 14, 2026

Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition

Today, Oris introduces its Star re-edition. It’s a celebration of the very first Oris watch to feature a lever escapement, from 1966. But “Oris Star” sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Back in 2023, we collaborated with the company from Hölstein on the Fratello × Oris Divers Sixty-Five with “Star” on the dial, just like its 1968 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition to read the full article.

Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011 Fratello
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models Apr 14, 2026

Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive family takes center stage at Watches and Wonders 2026 with three new releases. From the SBGY043, a relatively restrained daily wearer, to the SBGD228, a full-blown jewelry watch, this beloved Japanese brand covers a wide spectrum while sticking to its unique design ethos. What stands out this year is how […] Visit Three New Grand Seiko Spring Drive Models For Watches And Wonders 2026 - The SBGY043, SBGD228, And SBGZ011 to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G

Among the many novelties presented by Patek Philippe on the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, the Geneva manufacture expands its range of complications useful for everyday life with the elegant yet modern Calatrava 5322G reference, featuring a 24-hour alarm. Available in green or blue, its design pairs a dial with a black-gradient rim and […]

Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary

The Patek Philippe Nautilus returns in three new references that lean into the model’s archetypal design. They feature thin cases, clean dials, and a familiar architecture to celebrate 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. All three use the ultra-thin caliber 240, now with a commemorative mini-rotor engraving that pays homage to the model’s 1976 […] Visit Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary to read the full article.