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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Jun 23, 2026

Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On)

Jaeger-LeCoultre have finally entered the integrated bracelet watch space, but has the long wait been worth it? Let’s find out! What We Love: That bracelet – perfection! Elegantly reinterpreted design language Surprisingly value-driven for Jaeger-LeCoultre What We Don’t: Lacking embellishments on the dial & bezel No lume – an interesting choice… Is Jaeger-LeCoultre late to the party? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The integrated bracelet sports watch is emblematic of the current watch landscape. Bridging the gap between utility and jewellery, it has become the go-to design language for brands at every price point. From entry-level and middle-market players like Tissot and Raymond Weil, all the way to the upper echelons of Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, the integrated bracelet design has emerged as the industry’s defining modern silhouette. Conversely, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s identity is rooted in tradition and historical inspiration. Flagship models like the Reverso and Master Control draw upon the brand’s early Art Deco influences, using them as the foundation for their designs. Cementing its reputation as the ‘watchmaker’s watchmaker’, this steadfast commitment to horological heritage has earned the brand a devoted following among enthusiasts worldwide. But reliance on heritage is a double-edged sword. Many collectors have long argued that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s greatest c...

Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black Fratello
Jun 23, 2026

Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black

The Amida Digitrend is one of those out-of-the-box watches that always gets me. The combination of its unconventional shape, prism display, and jump-hour complication makes it unlike any other watch. That was already true of the 1976 original Amida Digitrend. Designer Matthieu Allègre and Depancel founder Clément Meynier relaunched the Digitrend in 2024 and tried […] Visit Get “Tunnel Vision” With The New Amida Digitrend OSII Black to read the full article.

Introducing – The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets new Sunburst Dials Monochrome
Meistersinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets Jun 22, 2026

Introducing – The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Gets new Sunburst Dials

The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour, introduced at the start of the year, combines a jumping-hour display with a new design language for the brand, best known for its single-hand watches. Rather than displaying the hours with a central hand, the time is indicated through a jumping-hour aperture at 12 o’clock, while a centrally mounted hand […]

Introducing – The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run Monochrome
Jun 22, 2026

Introducing – The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run

Make a list of independent watchmakers working outside Switzerland, highlight the most fascinating ones, and Dutch creator Machiel Hulsman will be among them. After leaving a career in IT, Hulsman dedicated himself to watchmaking, gradually acquiring the expertise required to design and manufacture complete movements from scratch, and to produce watches that are all one-of-a-kind […]

Introducing: The Vulcain Cricket Titanium Hodinkee
Nivada Grenchen Jun 18, 2026

Introducing: The Vulcain Cricket Titanium

What We Know Since Vulcain's revival in 2022 under the helm of Guillaume Laidet, a name familiar to most here thanks to his hand in brands like Nivada Grenchen and SpaceOne, it's steadily cranked out watches under a few collections, from skin divers to chronographs, and most importantly, its iconic design that is the Cricket alarm watch. While these modern Crickets have largely remained faithful in spirit to their predecessors, today marks a new limited edition from Vulcain with a contemporary twist: the Vulcain Cricket Titanium. The name kind of gives everything away here, with titanium being the main focus of this new run of 100 pieces. The 39mm case, in its slightly upsized modern form, is made this time in grade 5 titanium, polished throughout. The dial is also in titanium, with a stamped guilloché effect paired with white printing for a minutes track and applied indices. The handset comes in a variety of colors, with the skeletonized dauphine minute and hour hands paired with a black seconds hand, and a metallic nickel-plated alarm hand with a blackened arrow tip that points to the printed track to better set your alarm time. But that's not where the titaniumification (I'm going to pretend that's a real word) ends. Here, the Le Locle-assembled and manually-wound Vulcain Cricket Calibre V14 is also produced from titanium movement blanks, meaning that the titanium theme translates all the way to the inside of the watch and can be seen through the exhibition caseback. S...

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2026

ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar

Despite my besten Bemühungen, when it comes to learning the German language, I’ve never found it to be very einfach, dear reader. But I haven’t let that cloud my judgment with German and Swiss brands. Especially those with Teutonic-sounding names like ochs und junior. Now hitting the two-decade mark since it was founded in 2006, the Swiss brand’s latest release shows it has no interest in stepping outside of its distinct design language of highly stylized, stripped-down watches with a clear “Weniger ist mehr” philosophy. We see this throughline in the new anno sandblasted. Available in 39mm and 42mm case sizes, this release upgrades the brand’s existing annual calendar with a sandblasted dial. But as you can see, the calendar display is undeniably the most eye-catching part of this watch, creating something that is just as much about the form of the watch itself as it is about the function. Even so, at first glance, it may be a bit hard to understand (not unlike the genitive case, but I’m not bitter…).  To do this, the Ludwig Oechslin designed annual calendar replaces conventional windows and text displays with a series of holes read directly (and I’m told “intuitively”) from the dial. The 31 holes around the perimeter show the date, with the ten-minute markers acting as five-day reference points. For example, the 30-minute marker also marks the 15th day of the month. A smaller group of seven holes shows the weekday, while 12 holes show the month, b...

Introducing – The Boutique-Exclusive Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin Blue Fumé Edition Monochrome
Maen Jun 18, 2026

Introducing – The Boutique-Exclusive Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin Blue Fumé Edition

The Manhattan series is an important collection for Maen, being an integrated-bracelet sports-watch design series with an increasingly refined execution at an accessible price. Last year, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots introduced the Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin, a slimmer and more elegant interpretation of its popular collection, powered by a hand-wound movement. Now, Maen […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Jun 17, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team

This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.  We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversations. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)2:35 Kari Voutilainen 2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee) 11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee) 12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches) 13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com) 15:03 Timex 15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack ...

Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes Monochrome
Jun 17, 2026

Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes

Every June, Geneva becomes the meeting point for the world of high precision. Held annually at Palexpo (June 16 to 19, for the 2026 edition), the EPHJ trade show brings together more than 20,000 visitors and over 800 exhibitors from the watchmaking, jewellery, microtechnology and medical technology sectors, making it the largest high-precision industry exhibition […]

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series Worn & Wound
Bremont Jun 16, 2026

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series

It’s easy to think of J.N. Shapiro as a brand largely focused on a style of watchmaking from an earlier generation. But that’s a trap. While the design language is rooted in classicism and J.N. Shapiro prides itself on the highest level execution of traditional guilloche, the brand has also been open to experimenting with materials in a way that many other contemporary indies have embraced to great success in recent years. Their new watch, the Radiant, enters the Infinity Series with a host of exotic materials at its core, and the watch serves as a reminder that while J.N. Shapiro is capable of doing things in an old school way, and might lean into that at times, the brand is not opposed to taking a modern perspective on some of these old fashioned ideas.  J.N. Shapiro’s Southern California manufacture sits at the heart of the American aerospace industry, and that connection serves as a loose inspiration for the Radiant, a new monopusher chronograph that is a bit of a sequel to their first chrono, released just last year in a very small run for Escapement, a Boston area collector’s group. Watches that are linked to aerospace are nothing new, but usually watches in this genre are conceived as fit for an astronaut, or something along those lines (there’s been a glut of space-travel oriented watches just this year, from IWC, Bremont, and others). J.N. Shapiro takes a different approach, focusing on materials that are closely tied to the industry and have unique app...

Doxa Introduces the Long Awaited Sub 200 T.Graph II Worn & Wound
Omega Jun 15, 2026

Doxa Introduces the Long Awaited Sub 200 T.Graph II

Doxa is one of those watch brands where the lore is kind of hard to escape. Every release is the subject of intense enthusiast discussion as the watches are contextualized through a complex history. There’s real mystique to the brand, which I think largely stems from the fact that Doxa’s dive watches were always true enthusiast products, made for actual divers as tools of their trade. This sets them apart from Rolex, Omega, and many other Swiss luxury houses, not because they didn’t also make tools for real divers (they certainly did), but because they also focused their attention on more mainstream pursuits. Doxa, at least in the public imagination, 50+ years on, did not. They’re seen as a brand for purists, and still appreciated by them to a great extent, even if they sometimes do something that’s a little on trend. There’s perhaps no watch in their catalog with more lore attached to it than the Sub 200 T.Graph, a chronograph version of the Doxa’s iconic Sub 200 diver. This watch was briefly released in a very limited way all the way back in 2019, and, ever since, collectors and fans of the brand have been clamoring for a non-limited edition. This week, Doxa has given the people what they want, with the introduction of the Sub 200 T.Graph II.  The new Sub 200 T.Graph II is, at least on the surface, exactly what you’d expect a modern, permanent version of the T.Graph to be. It is sized down just slightly from the 2019 limited edition, with a 42mm case in ...

In-Depth – Diving with the new Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II, The Return of the Brand’s Diving Chronograph Monochrome
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jun 15, 2026

In-Depth – Diving with the new Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II, The Return of the Brand’s Diving Chronograph

There’s a particular type of watch that doesn’t feel the need to explain itself. It doesn’t have a fancy movement with a skeletonised rotor. It doesn’t come in a box made of rare-earth metals the size of a carry-on. It doesn’t require trips to maisons and ateliers. It just shows up, orange-faced and slightly thick, […]

Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph TAG Heuer’s Jun 13, 2026

Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Evergraph may just be the best Monaco yet. A redesigned case, a new look dial, and of course, the new TH80 movement. We took it for a spin to see how it stacks up. What We Love: The new innovative TH80 movement Refined case makes for a better wearing experience Overall look is sporty and modern What We Don’t: The new clasp doesn’t allow for an exact fit on the wrist The watch does wear larger on the wrist visually, so check the sizing if you have smaller wrists The lack of versatility due to the Monaco design. it is a sports watch through and through Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When TAG Heuer unveiled the Monaco Evergraph at Watches & Wonders 2026, it immediately became one of the show’s most talked-about releases. Why? Because it housed a completely new chronograph movement developed over several years by TAG Heuer Lab in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The Monaco itself is no stranger to innovation. Since its debut in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and one of the first waterproof square-cased watches, it has always had a special place in TAG Heuer’s collection. The design has never been universally loved, but that’s arguably part of its appeal. More than half a century later, it remains one of the most recognisable watch designs in the industry. Steve McQueen made the Monaco famous in Le Mans, but it wasn’t an instant hit,...

Review: the OG Deep Space Blue Worn & Wound
Ming ly every element stripping Jun 12, 2026

Review: the OG Deep Space Blue

There’s a riskiness to Oliver Gallaugher’s approach to watch design that I can’t help but admire. His aesthetic is clean, lending a stripped-down, contemporary look, but his methods are complex, resulting in elaborate manufacturing and higher costs. What looks, at a glance, like something simple, like a hand, never is. In fact, the hands of his watches, of which there have been two series, with the first sold out, are notably complicated, even featuring a “world’s first.” Further, though his watches are two-handers, rather than using a standard Swiss off-the-shelf movement, he has, thus far, used highly finished bespoke calibers. The result, and here is the dangerous part, is watches that don’t scream why they cost what they do. They aren’t for people who want or need an obvious element to point to, like a guilloche dial or a complication. The OG Watches Deep Space Blue is both a follow-up and an evolution of the Deep Space concept that the brand debuted with. It takes the same overarching concept, a minimal watch with a dial inspired by the night sky, but developed and refined seemingly every element, stripping back further, and yet increasing the complexity of manufacturing. It also uses a bespoke movement from Le Temps Manufactures, which is known for its work with very high-end independents. Beginning with the case, the first model was 41mm x 10.2mm thick and made of 316L steel. The new model is 38mm x 8.8mm and made of 904L. Given the spacious dial and...

MAT Watches Introduces The Whimsical Egg Master II Fratello
Jun 11, 2026

MAT Watches Introduces The Whimsical Egg Master II

Generally, watches are serious business. At least to most of us, they are. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for some fun. Some good examples are the many seconde/seconde/ collaborations we have seen from various brands. Obviously, the theme should appeal to you and make you like one of these whimsical timepieces. If there […] Visit MAT Watches Introduces The Whimsical Egg Master II to read the full article.

Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines Fratello
Jun 10, 2026

Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines

Philippine microbrand Makina returns with the Makina Cassiel II. This second iteration looks nothing like the original Cassiel. However, it looks much more like a Makina now, and that’s a good thing. Join me for a closer look at a distinctly brutalist, design-first chronograph. The Makina Cassiel II goes on presale today, priced at US$1,850. […] Visit Introducing: The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time – An Extensive Look at Modern Alternatives to the Lever Escapement Monochrome
Patek Philippe have lever escapement movements Jun 6, 2026

The ABCs of Time – An Extensive Look at Modern Alternatives to the Lever Escapement

There’s an old saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” That could easily apply to the lever escapement, a design so perfected that almost all mechanical watches rely on it today after its debut in 1754. It’s reliable, accurate and easily mass produced, and watchmakers like Rolex and Patek Philippe have lever escapement movements […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12

What We Know TAG Heuer has said this is the year of the chronograph. In reality, for the storied brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds, that means it's the year of the Monaco. With a series of new releases for 2026, including updated versions of the core Monaco collection with an in-house chronograph movement and updated titanium case, as well as tweaked dial design and, most significantly, the innovative and bar-raising movement tech of the new Evergraf, TAG has leaned into the square-shaped timepiece that debuted back in 1969 and affirmed its position as the brand's flagship and iconic model.  So for the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026 this weekend, it shouldn't be a surprise that TAG is unveiling a new limited edition version of the Monaco to mark the occasion. The surprise here is that it isn't a chronograph. Rather, it's a time-only jump hour, utilizing the noted Spin Time movement from fellow LVMH property La Fabrique du Temps. It's called the TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, and it is certainly a unique and unprecedented interpretation of the mighty Monaco.  Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the brushed case is made of grade 5 titanium, with the crown on the right rather than the left, which is now obligatory on the Monaco chronograph. It features a sapphire crystal on both sides, meaning the skeletonized case is effectively transparent outside of the dial architecture at the center.  The design inspiration here is a 12-cylinder combustion motor, and the ...

Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Jun 5, 2026

Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement

As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]

Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Jun 5, 2026

Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist

The Heuer Monaco was launched in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and the first square, water-resistant chronograph wristwatch. It became an icon thanks to its unconventional design and its close association with motorsport. Over time, the TAG Heuer Monaco has evolved in multiple directions, from faithful heritage recreations to avant-garde concepts. […]

Introducing – The Electrifying Dial of the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning Monochrome
Ming x J.N Shapiro 37.06 Jun 5, 2026

Introducing – The Electrifying Dial of the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning

Indie watch brand Ming was founded by Malaysian photographer, designer and engineer Ming Thein in 2017. Since then, Ming has amassed a devoted following for its contemporary design-led watches distinguished by minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour. The latest 37.06 Lightning, a joint project between Ming and J.N. Shapiro Watches, a Los Angeles-based watchmaker, is the […]