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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo L’Originale Jul 7, 2019

Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold

Regular readers will register precisely zero surprise when I state that the entirety of Time+Tide are raging fans of Bulgari’s distinctive Octo - but, if we’re being completely real (and when are we not?), then it’s the Octo Finissimo that attracts the lion’s share of our ardour. But it’s not the only arrow in that … ContinuedThe post Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor’s note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn’t look like it’s getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces … ContinuedThe post In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Cultural perceptions of time aren’t all straightforward Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cultural perceptions of time aren’t all straightforward

Here at Time+Tide, we write a lot about watches. What we don’t write about as much is what the watches are actually communicating to us - time. And while time seems fairly straightforward (or is it straightbackward?) as a concept, cultural perceptions of time are highly variable, with these differences impacting language, writing and commercial activity … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Cultural perceptions of time aren’t all straightforward appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Time+Tide
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Jul 4, 2019

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

Editor’s note: With the announcement of Tudor’s ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019, we found our minds turned, inexplicably, to the darker things in life. And while the chances of owning that dark phantom are slender, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark is a much more achievable goal …  The story in a second: … ContinuedThe post Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2019

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today?

The “Dirty Dozen” are watches produced by the 12 British Ministry of Defence contractors during World War II who were tasked with strapping watches to the wrists of allied forces. While some of the brands are bigger and better than ever before, a few have slid into relative obscurity or the books of insolvency firms. … ContinuedThe post Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2019

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018

While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In … ContinuedThe post Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Jul 2, 2019

Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m

The George Daniels Space Traveller I, one of the most important watches of the 20th century, has just sold at Sotheby’s in London for  £3.62m, or about US$4.56m, all fees included. That makes the Space Traveller I the most expensive watch sold in 2019 so far – though it will doubtlessly be eclipsed by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel for Only Watch – and the most expensive watch ever by an independent watchmaker. A big boost to Sotheby’s market share in watch auctions, the record-setting Daniels was the final lot in the first auction of Masterworks of Time, the sale of a collection of over 800 pocket watches owned by Erivan Haub, the late German supermarket tycoon. The last time the Space Traveller was sold was in 1988, where Haub paid  220,000 Swiss francs for it at Sotheby’s in Geneva. Prior to that, the watch was been sold by London antique watch dealer Bobinet in 1982 to a collector by the name of Jay Lennon. In almost forty years, the Space Traveller has had only three owners. The auction Having concluded just over an hour ago, the auction took place on a pleasant summer’s day in London, but it was slow going in the half-filled room. The average age of the attendees was notedly higher than that for a wristwatch auction, reflecting the niche nature of pocket watch collecting. But a crowd started to form as soon as it came to the Space Traveller, and the atmosphere perked up. Bidding started out as a tussle between an absentee bidder...

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 1, 2019

Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018

As we naturally personify the objects we come into contact with, the hour and minute indicators on a watch become articulating hands, and the dial becomes a face. Just as we will closely study the faces of the people around us, we search for meaning in the faces of our watches as we read the … ContinuedThe post Dialled in – the 10 most interesting watch dials of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue Jul 1, 2019

Introducing the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue for Only Watch 2019

A young Francois-Paul Journe created his sixth ever watch in 1987; it was an “astronomic planetary watch”, a pocket watch with faces on each side. Over three decades later that has been reimagined as the Astronomic Blue, a prototype grand complication made for Only Watch 2019. Mentioned by Mr Journe in an interview late last year, the Astronomic Blue is a hand-wound wristwatch with astronomical functions on two faces, as well as a minute repeater and tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite. The complications total 18, and are powered by a movement made up of 758 parts, making it more complex than the Sonnerie Souveraine. The astronomic planetary watch of 1987, signed “Journe à Paris” Like the preceding F.P. Journe watches made for Only Watch, namely the tourbillon and split-seconds, the Astronomic Blue has a tantalum case and mirrored blue dial like that found on the Chronometre Bleu. The case is 44mm in diameter and 13.75mm high, making it comparable in size to the discontinued Sonnerie Souverain and recent Tourbillon Souverain Vertical. Remembering 1987 As with many of Mr Journe’s early creations, the pocket watch was inspired by both Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels, a quality that is echoed in the Astronomic Blue. Like the George Daniels Space Traveller, the front shows sidereal and mean solar time on two symmetrically arranged sub-dials, while the reverse has a ring-type annual calendar and equation of time indicator, which is reminiscent of the...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2019

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...

The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s new Master Ultra Jun 30, 2019

The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection

A few weeks ago we spent some quality time with a few friends and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra Thin pieces, with eye-catching guilloché enamel dials. Well, before the watches were locked away for the evening in their display cases, we took the opportunity to get up close and personal with these beauties.  Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra … ContinuedThe post The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Christie’s return champion yachtsman’s stolen Rolex  Time+Tide
Rolex   OK so Jun 30, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Christie’s return champion yachtsman’s stolen Rolex 

OK, so on the surface this story is nice and simple. Philip McColl, a sailor who had his engraved Rolex Submariner (a commemoration of his 1988 World Championship win) stolen in 1998 returned to him by Christie’s auction house. Good news story, right? Well, the actual story is a little more complex.  Turns out that Christie’s … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Christie’s return champion yachtsman’s stolen Rolex  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2019

These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018

Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as “soulless”, and “the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible”, it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant … ContinuedThe post These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Coll... Jun 26, 2019

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Every couple of years Vacheron Constantin gives one of its watches the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ treatment, constructing the watch entirely in platinum, from case to the stitching on the leather strap. First introduced in 2006, the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ range now consists of nine models, including the Traditionnelle World Time, Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon as well as Traditionnelle Complete Calendar that was launched last year. Now the line is joined by the hand-wound Traditionnelle, a simple, time-only watch executed in the most precious way possible. Small, heavy and monochromatic A focused exercise in classic dress watch design, the Traditionnelle Manual-winding is among the leading candidates in the category of hand-wound, time-only dress watches. It is arguably the quintessential Vacheron Constantin formal watch, being free of complications and superfluous elements. And though it faces strong competition from the likes of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Traditionnelle ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ (CEP) is unique in being all-platinum, end to end. With the CEP treatment, the watch has evolved to its ultimate form. The dimensions of the case remain unchanged – 38mm wide and just 7.77mm high. It features discreet decorative details like a fluted case back and straight, angular lugs that incorporate the form of a Maltese cross. But in the area where most time-only dress wat...

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market

The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors - such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic - this isn’t the whole … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches? Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches?

While antique categories such as art, furniture and artefacts have long been recognised as stores of value, watches are a relative newcomer to the game of “buy low, sell high”. And this poses an interesting question – can watches help you get rich? It seems like every auction season, old records are broken, and new … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Can you get rich from collecting watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Jun 24, 2019

INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary

It’s a truism to say that the watch industry loves an anniversary, and while mostly it’s the watch brands doing the celebrating, this time it is a retailer celebrating the big 4-0. Boy, are they celebrating in style.  The Hour Glass is one of the major retail figures in the Asia-Pacific region, with more than … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring² Introduces the Perpetual Doppel SJX Watches
Jun 21, 2019

Habring² Introduces the Perpetual Doppel

Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...

Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional Time+Tide
Omega now rules Jun 20, 2019

Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional

Big news overnight from the house of Omega – they can now claim the lofty (well, the opposite actually) title of deepest diving watch ever. Just how deep are we talking here? How about 10,928 metres? That’s the depth Victor Vescovo took his submersible, Limiting Factor into the Mariana Trench. And on that sub, was the Omega … ContinuedThe post Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic  Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic  Bulgari’s Jun 18, 2019

The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic 

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo family has been shattering records left, right and centre since its introduction in 2014. But the watch that really captured the hearts and minds of fans and critics alike was the Octo Finissimo Automatic - initially offered in sandblasted titanium, and shortly after in distinctive steel and gold versions. Well, this year … ContinuedThe post The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction Time+Tide
Blancpain Air Command commands Jun 15, 2019

This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction

One of the surprise highlights from the recent Swatch-stravaganza that was Time to Move was Blancpain’s Air Command – a really neat reissue of an historic pilot’s chronograph. It’s fair to say that prior to this release, knowledge of the Air Command was limited to hardcore Blancpain fans and seasoned professionals. Well, the timing couldn’t … ContinuedThe post This old Blancpain Air Command commands an impressive price at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V Casio’s G-Shock Jun 14, 2019

HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Casio’s G-Shock has a reputation - and a well-deserved one, I might add - for being one of the toughest watches ever made. Way back in 1983, Kikuo Ibe, the man behind the watch, decreed that the watch needed to meet some pretty tough criteria: a 10-year battery life, water resistance of 10 bar, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Full metal jacket – the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing Time+Tide
Rolex drought shows no sign Jun 11, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing

In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro’s managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Jun 11, 2019

Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold

Editor’s note: In the last few years, two-tone watches have moved from fringe to mainstream trend status. And while it’s clear that yellow gold has been largely replaced with pink, the other material de rigueur is typically steel. Which is why we’re still so into the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold – the perfect … ContinuedThe post Industrial aesthetics – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato in titanium and pink gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Australian launch of the Longines Legend Diver at Time and Tide HQ in Melbourne was our blackest event yet Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Jun 10, 2019

The Australian launch of the Longines Legend Diver at Time and Tide HQ in Melbourne was our blackest event yet

At long, long last we were able to host the Australian launch of the Longines Legend Diver Black at our headquarters in Cremorne, Melbourne this week. It heralded the watch officially going on sale in our shop, where it will be available for the next two months exclusively in Australia. To say that the moment … ContinuedThe post The Australian launch of the Longines Legend Diver at Time and Tide HQ in Melbourne was our blackest event yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold Time+Tide
Jun 9, 2019

Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold

Editor’s note: There aren’t many words in this picture gallery of the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold, because, well, pictures speak louder than words in this case. To that end, we’ll let them do the talking again. Enjoy. We are.   There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine … ContinuedThe post Behold, the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.