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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

Hands-On With The Extravagant Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon Fratello
Jan 30, 2024

Hands-On With The Extravagant Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon

Last November, I got my first taste of the remarkable creations of Cyrus Genève. The Klepcys GMT Palm Green and Ocean Blue were a striking combination of state-of-the-art design and impressive watchmaking. They were a great first taste, for sure. Another one of the brand’s standout pieces is the Klepcys DICE, which Cyrus released just […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Worn & Wound
Breitling s stewardship remains Jan 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”

Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange Jul 26, 2023

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500

The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking is a meca-quartz chronograph that uses quartz for the time and a mechanical module for the chronograph This Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange uses the famed Jean Singer numeral font for the registers also seen on Paul Newman Daytonas It is a limited edition, with a five-week order window period You know … ContinuedThe post The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking “Paul Newman” Orange hits vintage notes for under US$500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Vintage Diver Chronographs, & One Full Kit Benrus Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Jul 13, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Diver Chronographs, & One Full Kit Benrus

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Wittnauer Geneve Starting this week off with a unique vintage Wittnauer Geneve. The 34mm stainless steel case has a neat octagonal design, one you don’t see often. I think they really pulled it off in this case (pun intended), especially with the large lug bevels. Case looks unpolished and still shows the brushed finish. The two-tone silver bullseye dial with crosshairs is a stunner, and in fantastic condition. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs, and that the movement is a manual wind. Speaking of which, the winding crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo to boot. View auction here. Vintage Omega Seamaster This vintage Omega Seamaster is a real beauty for those that love patina. This is housed in the classic fat lug, wide bezel Seamaster 34mm steel case that is so desired by Omega collectors. The fat lugs have nice, sharp chamfers as they should since the case is unpolished. It is sadly becoming more and more of a rarity to find an unpolished Seamaster. The dial has stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 9, with slim arrows for the other markers, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This dial used to be a silver/white, but has developed a beaut...

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph

Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well.  Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...

Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution - Reprise Quill & Pad
Ming Jun 25, 2023

Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution - Reprise

Just when Joshua Munchow thought he was out, Ming Watches pulled him back in! The brand is (still) on a roll with two pieces having been nominated for the final round of the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève plus a new concept featuring an AgenGraphe chronograph movement by Agenhor. Here Joshua checks out the GPHG contenders, Ming's 18.01 and 27.01, two very different watches.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”

The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.  Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs Time+Tide
Hamilton s BTCA Nov 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs

This week seems to be the week of awards shows. I was in California last weekend for the Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards, while today Andrew was at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards celebrate the hard work of those who work behind the scenes in the movie industry, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable

During my time at Time+Tide, the flow of curious timekeepers coming across my desk has been constant, yet, the CIGA Design Blue Planet stands out as one of the more notable ones. As the first Chinese brand to ever win an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, claiming the Challenge Watch Prize in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The SJX x Kudoke “Zodiac” Nominated for GPHG 2022 SJX Watches
Zodiac Nominated Jul 26, 2022

The SJX x Kudoke “Zodiac” Nominated for GPHG 2022

The preeminent – and perhaps only international – awards for watchmaking, Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), has just announced the competing timepieces of 2022. We are please that one of own editions, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”, is competing in “Artistic Crafts”. Created last year for the 10th anniversary of SJX Watches, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” is a candidate alongside marques like Voutilainen and Hermes in a category that calls for “exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.” The Zodiac is all about engraving – done by hand naturally – with both the front and back decorated in relief and textures. Both the dial and movement are fully engraved by the hands of the skilful artisans at Kudoke. The hand engraving is extensive and complete, with is nothing on the dial or movement that is engraved by machine – even the brand name on the dial is executed by hand. But the Zodiac is more than just artisanal technique. It is also an artistic creation: the hour symbols on the dial were commissioned especially for the watch and drawn by Canadian illustrator Lee Yuen-Rapati, who’s now the in-house designer at Fears. He cleverly combined both a sign of the zodiac and Roman numeral into each hour markers. The marker at ten, for instance, is Aquarius but also contains “X”, the Roman numeral for “10”. To echo the celestial theme on the fr...

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Apr 22, 2022

Time Design Exhibition: Hands And Eyes On The Beauty Of Watchmaking

If you attended Watches and Wonders 2022, you may have noticed the large exhibition called Time Design right near the entrance, which was organized by the cultural arm of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. If you missed the Time Design exhibition at the fair, you may now see it until May 8, 2022 in the FHH’s space at Pont de la Machine right in the center of Geneva. It is free and open to the public.

IN-DEPTH: The LeJour Coral Diver - vintage notes with unique twists at an attainable cost Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The LeJour Coral Diver - vintage notes with unique twists at an attainable cost

If you thought that a resurrected brand famed for its 1970s chronographs would be pigeonholed with its releases, think again. LeJour in 2022 is a very different beast from the distributor who worked alongside Heuer and Yema in the ‘70s, now creating vintage throwback watches with unique twists at an attainable cost. The Coral Diver … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The LeJour Coral Diver – vintage notes with unique twists at an attainable cost appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon SJX Watches
Feb 17, 2022

Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon

Having commissioned a series of double-crown, cloisonné world time wristwatches from Andersen Genève, Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee now turns to Chinese artisans for his latest collaborative project. The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century is the work of AHCI member Lin Yong Hua and Xiong Songtao, a third-generation enameller who created the cloisonné dial. Initial thoughts The watchmakers are proficient at making – and marketing – métiers d’art, but Chinese watchmakers are fairly new entrants to the high-end of this field, making the Century an unusual offering. The Century is an entirely different animal from the low-end watches that are often associated with the made-in-China label. Both in terms of the dial and movement, the Century takes things to another level, while possessing a refined, clean style. The entire dial is cloisonné enamel comprised of an impressive amount of gold wire to form the intricate motif. In fact, the fine cloisonné work resembles brush strokes from afar. It’s certainly appears to be top class work in both complexity and quality. And the movement is comparable in quality, which is unsurprising since it was developed by Mr Lin, who is best known for his quirky, hand-made wristwatches. The finishing is excellent, as evidenced by the rounded bevelling on the three-quarter plate. But while the Century does well in intrinsic quality, it seems to lack identity. While the watch is well designed and finely made – especially con...

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG SJX Watches
Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time Quill & Pad
Trilobe Oct 10, 2021

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time

Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Jul 17, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph - Reprise

The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum SJX Watches
Jun 9, 2021

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum

Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...

Hands-on with the 2020 GPHG winner for Calendar and Astronomy- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Nov 19, 2020

Hands-on with the 2020 GPHG winner for Calendar and Astronomy- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Skeleton

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton was awarded the “Calendar and Astronomy” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2020. This watch was unveiled in the Watches & Wonders earlier this year. The watch arrived in Singapore for a photography session, and we got up close with it. This is ourRead More

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 20, 2020

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph

Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...