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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary” Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”

Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera in 1963 as a chronograph for race-car drivers. No frills yet stylish design, the Carrera was perfect blend of form and function. Sixty years on TAG Heuer is celebrating its signature chronograph with a faithful revival, the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”, the first in a series of commemorative models that will be launched over the year – but it will be the only vintage remake amongst the commemorative editions. Presented in the modern-day Carrera case of 39 mm, it is a near-identical replica of the classic Carrera ref. 2447 SN with its distinctive “panda” dial. While it incorporates the key elements of the original, the brand has updated the watch with its in-house automatic movement and of course scaled up the design to match. Initial thoughts I was struck by its understated styling of the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”. It’s a remake that doesn’t try to do too much but performs well. The original was clearly a functional sports chronograph but still elegant, something that this remake inherits. And the simplicity of the original ensures that it doesn’t look dated. Admittedly, this is not exactly novel since TAG Heuer already released the remake of the ref. 2447S with an all-silver dial in 2020. But the “panda” dial is undoubtedly more appealing. It’s perfect homage to the 1960s and the brand’s history in motor racing. The dial gets the details right, including the “Heuer” logo, brushed ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions

As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update Time+Tide
Omega teases tiny yet massive Jan 6, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update

Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2 Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2023

Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2

We’ve already counted down our top 5  from our Micro-Mondays series in 2022, but the independent goodness just keeps on coming. Each passing year sees these nimble microbrands continuing to innovate where larger companies can’t, driving trends and keeping prices attainable. If someone is looking to get into the watch hobby without spending a heap of … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2022 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 (you... Dec 30, 2022

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2022

As we reflect on the past year, we’re proud of the stories we published and grateful for all of our readers – we appreciate you. Before the year closes, we want to revisit some of your favourite stories from 2022, from in-depth reviews of the most significant watches of the year to our fascinating conversations with thought leaders within the industry. Technical deep-dives Understanding of today’s most complex timepieces can be a challenge (even for us sometimes). But with our string of in-depth reviews, we aim to help the reader better appreciate these watches. Amongst the year’s highlights us two-part, in-depth examination of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 (you”ll find the second part here) with its highly skeletonised movement featuring a one-second remontoir and tourbillon mounted on the same axis. Another story with a substantial focus on Japanese watchmaking was an engineer’s perspective on quartz watches: a personal take on the complexities of the technology and why it can stand on par with the mechanical watches.  Understanding the symmetrical construction of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon We also covered more conventional high-end watchmaking, but in our unique, detailed manner. We of course looked at the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, which received a major upgrade thanks to a revamped movement. And to help put the new Zeitwerk in context, we published a collector’s guide that compiles all the known var...

Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Dec 21, 2022

Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31

Coming up on three years ago, Australia had one of the most lethal summers for wildfires – we call them bushfires down here – on record. It was, quite literally, a nightmare. During the days, the skies would darken to a point where cars would use headlights at midday. But it wasn’t thunderstorm, or night-time … ContinuedThe post Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing Time+Tide
Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph Dec 20, 2022

VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing

With some of the more out-there design choices of the late ’90s and early ’00s coming back into fashion, it takes an extremely keen eye to come out with a range which matches that energy without looking too dated or clunky. The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph and Powermatic 80 are watches that capture the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Chronograph delivers the high-octane essence of modern racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NSFW! Holiday Hentai from a historic Swiss brand? Merry Christmas, I guess Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2022

NSFW! Holiday Hentai from a historic Swiss brand? Merry Christmas, I guess

Erotic watches have long been a controversial topic. Some praise the individuality, artistry and taboo nature of these pieces, impressed by the intricately painted scenes or complex automata depicting them. Others, however, denounce them completely for their tackiness despite the connection to the historical tradition of erotic art – something Luke Benedictus shared his thoughts … ContinuedThe post NSFW! Holiday Hentai from a historic Swiss brand? Merry Christmas, I guess appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 15, 2022

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc

It's a common refrain in the watch collector community that chronographs are one of the most popular complications while at the same time being one of the least practical in day-to-day life. Many of the most famous chronograph watches are also equipped with tachymeter scales, and while fans of these watches mostly agree that they look very cool, few of them have ever used the scale with the stopwatch function, and many wouldn't really know how. Nevertheless, the tachymeter on a watch was invented for a utilitarian, practical purpose once upon a time and it's worth briefly exploring those origins and exploring those capabilities. Essentially, a tachymeter (also called a tachometer) is a numerical scale on a watch’s dial or bezel that is used in conjunction with a chronograph seconds hand to measure an object’s speed over a predetermined distance. It is often used to determine miles or kilometers per hour and is thus a common feature of chronograph watches whose design is inspired by automobile racing; we'll showcase several icons of that category in our list below. Unlike divers’ watch bezels, which should rotate in one direction to set dive times, or other types of bezel scales used for calculations and conversions, like the circular slide rule on Breitling’s Navitimer, most of which are bidirectional, a tachymeter scale bezel should be fixed. The numerical scale typically starts around the 6- or 7-second marker on the minute track, and is usually indicated in ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: At the World Cup with Hublot, final ChaosMaster Save Us Koala Edition available for purchase Time+Tide
Hublot final ChaosMaster Save Us Dec 9, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: At the World Cup with Hublot, final ChaosMaster Save Us Koala Edition available for purchase

By the pool at Villa Hublot, a palatial mansion on the Persian Gulf coast, the French World Cup winner Marcel Desailly is sitting at the corner of the bar drinking a glass of red wine. As a DJ spins upbeat house tunes to usher in the sunset, a waiter circulates among the guests with a … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: At the World Cup with Hublot, final ChaosMaster Save Us Koala Edition available for purchase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns Dec 9, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs

This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch Time+Tide
Dec 5, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch

What is great about the independent watch market is that there is more room to do things differently. By offering more value for less money or by making unique watches. Or by making both things available at the same time. And it seems that some of the best watches come from single-owner brands that are backed by the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chr... Dec 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty

While Vacheron Constantin’s contribution to the watch world has mostly been focused on the Overseas and the newly re-introduced 222, the Geneva-based maker has quietly refreshed a highly complicated model. First released in platinum in 2016, and then pink gold a year later, it’s been five years since we saw the last update to the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Dec 1, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial

The watch community may be more familiar with their Adventure, Independent, and Wild One collections, but a top-seller for the Norqain brand is their Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm. Today, a new limited-edition installment has just entered the chat, with a handsome bronze panda vibe, that appears to be a worthy successor to one of their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gift giving guide: The most useful watch accessories for any budget Time+Tide
Nov 27, 2022

Gift giving guide: The most useful watch accessories for any budget

Last year, you gave the one you loved a beautiful watch. Or maybe you received a watch as a gift. For months that watch has been worn and, with the holiday season fast approaching, you’re looking to use that for further gift-giving inspiration. How do you do that you might ask? Well, you dive head … ContinuedThe post Gift giving guide: The most useful watch accessories for any budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe made Nov 24, 2022

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads

Trafford are shaping up to be a brand who are impossible to pin down, but if their releases continue the trend of happy surprises then we can only hope that never stops. Their first watch was a chronograph dedicated to 20th Century racing drivers-turned-spies, and their second watch is this new Crossroads. Despite a British … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.