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Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for a Perpetual Calendar, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sundays, we will be taking a look at six vastly different recommendations for a perpetual calendar watch.
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Patek's 1996 invention; handles 30- and 31-day months but needs one manual correction per year.
41 mm × 14.9 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 8922
40.5 mm × 11.3 mm, lug integrated, Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H
42 mm × 12.3 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. CH 28-520 QA 24H
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In this week's Throwback Sundays, we will be taking a look at six vastly different recommendations for a perpetual calendar watch.
SJX Watches
The conventional calendar used in most of the world is the Gregorian calendar, which has 365 days and an extra day in February every leap year. Consequently, and quite sensibly, almost all calendar watches display the Gregorian calendar. But there are other calendars used by various cultures and countries, like the Japanese calendar used for its Imperial eras, and also the Islamic, or Hijri, calendar. And now for the very first time, Parmigiani Fleurier has created a wristwatch with a Hijri perpetual calendar. Founded in 1996 by watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand has long been synonymous with inventive and complex watches, most notably the supercar-inspired Bugatti timepieces. In 2011, the brand unveiled the Hijri calendar table clock, a US$2.5 million creation elaborately constructed in silver, rock crystal and semiprecious stone. Now Parmigiani has refined the concept and miniaturised it for the wrist with the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar. A lunar calendar Made up of 12 lunar months and used to track important dates and events in Islam, the Hijri calendar differs from the common Gregorian Calendar in being a lunar calendar, one based on the cycles of the moon, and not Earth’s revolution around the sun. Its 12 months have either 29 or 30 days, resulting in a year that’s between 10 and 12 days shorter than the conventional 365-day year. The Islamic calendar began in 622 AD when the Prophet Muhammad moved from Mecca to Medina, both in present-day Saudi Arabia, ...
SJX Watches
To mark British racing driver Lewis Hamilton’s sixth Formula 1 World Championship, IWC has unveiled the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition. One of the most striking executions of the Big Pilot to date, the watch departs from the subdued, technical colours that characterise the line – which was inspired by German airforce navigators’ watches of the Second World War – and instead opts for a Bordeaux dial and pink gold accents. Measuring 46.5mm wide and 15.9mm high, the case is made of matte black ceramic, which accentuates its burgundy dial while downplaying its massive dimensions – though the watch is hard to miss on the wrist. The richly coloured dial is combined with a pink-gold crown and case back, while the hands are gold-plated and filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova. All the indications are also printed in a golden hue, along with a black four-digit year disc and moons, matching the case. Visible through the case back is the in-house, automatic cal. 52615, which sports a solid pink-gold rotor. It features the brand’s trademark Pellaton winding system, a 7-day power reserve courtesy of twin barrels and most crucially, the landmark perpetual calendar module invented by IWC’s longtime technical guru Kurt Klaus. The perpetual calendar tracks the day, day of the week, date, month, four-digit year, with both northern and southern hemispheres moon phases displayed concurrently. All indications advance in a coordinated sequ...
Time+Tide
It’s been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to … ContinuedThe post GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Patek Philippe unveils a unique new Calatrava Weekly Calendar for those who have their upcoming year clearly in view.
SJX Watches
The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...
SJX Watches
If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex, I could perhaps buy a ref. 4113 split-seconds, which is very large, very flat – a bit too large and flat for me – and exceptionally rare. Or I could buy a ref. 8171 triple calendar in steel, one in almost “new old stock” condition, as Phillips has in its upcoming Geneva auction. The ref. 8171 in question reminds me of the 369-year old Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch Sotheby’s sold in the summer – it’s hard to believe something that old, admittedly not quite four centuries, can be so well preserved. The “Padellone” is incredibly – incredibly – clean and crisp. Up close, the ref. 8171 speaks for itself. The dial looks like the watch left the factory recently. It is clean, neat and the date track is in pure, vivid blue. Similarly, the hands are free of marks, meaning they were seldom, or never, removed from the dial. The condition of the dial is all the more unusual due to the fact that the ref. 8171 is not an Oyster. Instead, it has a snap-on back, instead of the water-resistant, screw-on back found on the Oyster watch case. Over time, snap backs tend to lose their water-resistance as a consequence of corrosion or deformation from repeated opening, which is why most ref. 8171s have dials that show obvious ageing. An example of a ref. 8171 with a dial showing ageing, this one offered at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2017 The steel case is similarly well preserved. Fortunately, steel is nota...
Quill & Pad
The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!
Time+Tide
If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Over the last couple of years, H. Moser & Cie has become well-known for its playful jabs at the industry’s foibles – see exhibit one – as well as its provocatively pared back “concept” watches that are completely devoid of indications and logos. But its latest release, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”, is a return to its roots – a visual revamp of its ingenious perpetual calendar with the added flourish of a gorgeous burgundy fume dial. The perpetual calendar was the watch that made collectors sit up and take notice of Moser when the name was revived in 2005. With a minimalist, sensible display and ingenious mechanics, it was developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, an independent watchmaker who often builds complications for other brands. Though it has been around for over a decade now, it remains one of the most advanced perpetual calendars both in terms of function and practicality. The “Raspberry” is a variant of the perpetual calendar sports watch first launched two years ago. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar “Raspberry” Raspberry fumé In contrast to the classical Endeavour Perpetual Calendar that has is not a sports watch, hence its 30m depth rating, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD incorporates a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 120m. The case is stainless steel, and like most Moser watches, is substantially sized, measuring 42.8mm wide but a relatively slim 11.3mm in height, excluding the domed crys...
Hodinkee
A closer look at one of the latest complete calendar wristwatches from Vacheron Constantin.
Time+Tide
To understand the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat, we need to begin with a universal truth: in most areas of life, the most meaningful innovations are those that address real-life needs, solving practical problems in a sensible way. And those solutions come through questioning orthodox assumptions. In the case of mechanical watches, the received wisdom is … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar explained appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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As announced, Lange is releasing a new Lange 1 every month this year. For April, it is the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 25th Anniversary.
Time+Tide
As far as complications go, perpetual calendars are typically classically styled, verging on the stuffy, depending on how well they’re done. Not that there’s anything fundamentally wrong with this – after all, fine watchmaking thrives on tradition. But I can understand the desire to shake things up a little, and throw down some contemporary styles, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Glashütte Original go all out with their contemporary Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Detail analytical review of the Vacheron Constantin Tratitionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar - full explainations on how it works and why it is novel.
Revolution
Our editor-at-large, Suzanne Wong, explains just how fascinating Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is, and why it’s so radical.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is arguably one of the most innovative horological solutions of all time.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar and the Overseas Tourbillon for SIHH 2019.
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SIHH 2019: Vacheron Constantin presents the innovative new Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, a timepiece that can adapt to its wearer’s needs.
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Blancpain equips its iconic dive watch with the practical complete calendar function. We take a look at the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar.
Revolution
Audemars Piguet has had a close relationship with the perpetual calendar complication from the very beginning - perhaps even before it was founded in 1875.
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Full hands-on review: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, full analysis and telling you why it matters.
Audemars Piguet’s star of the 2018 SIHH, the Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar today.
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In this week's article, we are looking to end 2017 with six recommendations for a perpetual calendar watch. Find out what are the pieces that we have chosen!
Deployant
In the mirific landscape of Tuscany, A. Lange & Söhne released this year's special edition of 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne out does itself with a new page added to their chapter of Handwerkskunst watches with the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.
Audemars Piguet presents the iconic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in an enhanced ceramic case and the color that never goes out of style.
Revolution
Revolution speaks with François-Henry Bennahmias and Giulio Papi on the many challenges Audemars Piguet had to overcome in order to create SIHH 2017’s most talked about watch: The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in hand-finished black ceramic.
Time+Tide
Silent night, holy night, all is calm, apart from the reassuring tick of your Franck Muller Thunderbolt Tourbillon. And let’s not for a minute – or five seconds to be more accurate – mistake the forest for the Christmas trees here, the real star inside this gold curvex case is the tourbillon. When you’re playing at this level, tourbillons are … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 24 – Franck Muller Thunderbolt Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As you climb higher and higher up the horological Christmas tree – which, by the way we don’t advise in real life, unless this happens – the stars at the top start to thin out, leaving, at least in days of yore, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet shining brightly as Swiss watchmaking’s ‘big three’. Between them … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 23 – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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