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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Introducing - The New Space-Tested SC02C, a Mechanical Chronograph by Konstantin Chaykin Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Mechanical watches have accompanied Sep 4, 2026

Introducing - The New Space-Tested SC02C, a Mechanical Chronograph by Konstantin Chaykin

Mechanical watches have accompanied astronauts and cosmonauts into space for decades, but few contemporary watches can claim to have been developed specifically around the demands of extravehicular activity, like Konstantin Chaykin’s new SC02C. Born from the manufacture’s collaboration with Roscosmos, Russia’s space agency, the chronograph has been tested during four spacewalks and is now being […]

Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding

What We Know At Geneva Watch Days this year, Frederique Constant introduces two new references that continue to build on the momentum the brand generated at Watches and Wonders. The Highlife Moonphase Date adds a moonphase complication to the Highlife collection; the Classics Moneta Handwinding is the first mechanical movement in a collection that launched in 2024 with a quartz movement and added a solar version earlier this year. Together, the two references display the range of what the manufacture builds in-house, from a complicated moonphase module to a hand-wound caliber developed exclusively for the brand. The Highlife Moonphase Date measures 39mm and comes in two dial colors. The rosé champagne dial uses a sunray finish that radiates outward from the moonphase window at 6 o'clock rather than from the center, with gold and copper tones set against a blue moon disc. The night blue dial uses a lighter sunray finish closer in tone to its own moon disc, with a red "31" marking the final day of longer months.  The moon disc is rendered with grey shading and surface relief rather than a flat metallic disc. Both versions use applied, mirror-polished, lume-filled indexes and hands. By comparison, the Classics Moneta Handwinding measures 38.5mm and comes in a single dial color: a smoked salmon-tone gradient that darkens to black at the edges, with applied mirror-polished hour markers, two dauphine hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock. The Highlife Moonphase Date...

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video)

The Chronomaster Sport is one of Zenith’s most recognisable modern series, featuring a contemporary sports-watch case and, naturally, an El Primero chronograph movement. For 2026, however, Zenith takes an unexpected turn. The new Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the chronograph and debuts as a three-hand watch yet remains powered by one of the manufacture’s high-frequency El […]

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Monochrome
Chopard Revives Sep 1, 2026

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

In the mid-1990s, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele embarked on an ambitious project to elevate Chopard’s watchmaking credentials by establishing an independent manufacturing facility in Fleurier – and succeeded. Following the development of the acclaimed ultra-thin automatic calibre 96.01-L, the manufacture released its first watch in 1997. Bearing the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard,  the L.U.C 1860 launched […]

Revewing The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire: A Serious Watch That Doesn’t Take Itself Too Seriously WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Aug 24, 2026

Revewing The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire: A Serious Watch That Doesn’t Take Itself Too Seriously

The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 forms part of Hublot’s Manufacture Piece collection, and for good reason. Now, it’s time to take it out for a test drive… What We Love The Water Blue colour is sensational in person The movement is Hubot showcasing what it does best The undeniable wrist presence What We Don’t It is a large watch, and not for those with smaller wrists The older-style rubber strap is not easy to get the perfect fit, when compared to the newer style Will be out of the price range for many watch buyers and is a substantial investment Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 There are some watches that look impressive in a press release, but when you finally see them in the metal, they somehow manage to be not as much. Then there are watches like the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, where the opposite is true. The photographs give you an idea of what the watch is all about, but they really do not prepare you for what it looks like on the wrist. The MP-11 has always been one of Hublot’s more outrageous creations. First introduced in 2018, it was designed around a movement with seven series-coupled barrels and a 14-day power reserve, all packaged inside a relatively conventional Big Bang-style case. The Water Blue Sapphire version takes that already unconventional construction and places it inside a transparent blue sapphire case that allows almost every part of the movement to remain visi...

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

Hands-on - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the Brand’s Sophisticated Time-Only Watch Monochrome
Voutilainen Aug 4, 2026

Hands-on - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the Brand’s Sophisticated Time-Only Watch

When Urban Jürgensen returned under the stewardship of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, the inaugural collection naturally attracted attention with the spectacular UJ-1 Tourbillon and the sophisticated UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar. Yet, of the three models, it is perhaps the UJ-2 that best explains what the revived manufacture is looking to achieve. The UJ-2, to put […]

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 31, 2026

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain

H. Moser & Cie. unveils the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain as a limited edition of 20 pieces. This is a very significant artistic and technical effort from the Schaffhausen-based manufacture. Moser reinterprets one of its most complex creations in a 40mm titanium case, combining a minute repeater displayed on the dial […] Visit H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain to read the full article.

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

Introducing - Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2026 Monochrome
Union Glashütte Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2026

For several years, Union Glashütte has celebrated its partnership with the Sachsen Classic historic rally through annual limited editions based on the retro-styled Noramis Chronograph. For the 23rd edition of the Sachsen Classic, taking place on 14 and 15 August 2026, the German manufacture shifts the spotlight to the Averin Chronograph, whose angular, assertive square […]

In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Jul 21, 2026

In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s history is dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module; the ProSet perpetual calendar system continues this legacy. This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, and remains true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. A smaller Big Pilot QP The Big Pilot ProSet unveiled at Watches & Wonders blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost indistinguishable from the original 46 mm version. Apart from some styling choices, the main difference in the displays is the lack of a power reserve indicator. The cal. 82665 inside is powered by a single mains...

In-Depth: IWC’s ProSet Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC s ProSet Perpetual Calendar Jul 21, 2026

In-Depth: IWC’s ProSet Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s history was dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module. Though IWC has arguably been thin on such innovation in recent years, the ProSet perpetual calendar is a long overdue return to form. The calendar’s clever features make it true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. Set entirely via the crown just like the Kurt Klaus calendar, ProSet can also be adjusted forwards and backwards, making it both idiot-proof and convenient. A smaller Big Pilot This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, which blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost ...

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Jul 15, 2026

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red

Since its streamlined redesign in 2022, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has become the independent watchmaking brand‘s signature expression of one of the rarest mechanical phenomena in watchmaking. Without altering the movement, later editions have offered variations in colour and materials used, from the Manufacture Green and Ice Blue models to the warm rose gold […]

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy Monochrome
Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Jul 14, 2026

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy

Yema seems to be focused on combining its historic dive watch designs with more sophisticated mechanics, especially since the arrival of the manufacture CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre. Following the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 and the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, the French brand now introduces a more specialised interpretation of its vintage-inspired diver. Made together with the French Marine […]

4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You WristBuzz
4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You Jul 11, 2026

4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You

Every serial-obsessed Rolex conversation starts here: the reference number tells you the era, and the era tells you the spec. Acrylic vs sapphire, aluminium vs Cerachrom, tritium vs Chromalight, and why the 5-digit refs are the sweet spot most collectors quietly agree on.

Concepto Marks 20 Years of Movement Making SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto Jul 10, 2026

Concepto Marks 20 Years of Movement Making

One of the leading names in movement development, Concepto marks its 20th year in 2026. Concepto’s founder, Valérien Jaquet, has led the company since its founding in 2006, advised by his father, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, a fabled watch entrepreneur with a controversial history. Now a vertically integrated manufacture capable of creating and producing almost every part of a watch, Concepto is one of the rare handful of movement suppliers that have survived and prospered over the economic cycles of the watch industry. Some of its peers have gone bust, like Christophe Claret, while others, like La Fabrique du Temps, have been acquired by the industry’s giants. From left: Valérien Jaquet, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, and Jacob Arabo. Image – Concepto The company released a statement for its 20th anniversary that reveals some interesting facts about a little-known but crucial aspect of the industry — the specialist suppliers that feed watch brands with movements. Concepto remains a family business boasting some impressive numbers: according to the company, last year’s sales exceeded CHF60 million while output was some 30,000 movements, including about 1,100 tourbillon calibres. According to Concepto, its client list exceeds 100 brands. The list includes names large and small — the firm helped Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon, while Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto for the V-16 engine automaton in the Bugatti Tourbillon wristwatch. Even Bugatti itself turn...

First Look - The New IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Perpetual Calendar 42 Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Perpetual Jul 2, 2026

First Look - The New IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Perpetual Calendar 42

Ever since Kurt Klaus developed his ingenious perpetual calendar mechanism in the early 1980s, the Schaffhausen-based manufacture has made one of watchmaking’s most sophisticated complications surprisingly easy to live with. Yet despite appearing across several generations of Portugieser, the perpetual calendar had never found its way into the collection’s sportiest member. Perhaps for a reason, […]

Industry News - François-Henri Bennahmias and the Honourable Merchants Group announces the launch of watchmaking brand, N3W5 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet CEO who grew Jul 1, 2026

Industry News - François-Henri Bennahmias and the Honourable Merchants Group announces the launch of watchmaking brand, N3W5

François-Henri Bennahmias, the charismatic former Audemars Piguet CEO who grew the manufacture’s annual sales from CHF 500 million to CHF 2 billion announces his first watch project. Following his departure from the brand, Bennahmias unveiled The Honorable Merchant, a venture conceived as a platform for carefully curated luxury products and collaborations, spanning multiple product categories, […]

Introducing - The New Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple Monochrome
Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple Jun 25, 2026

Introducing - The New Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple

The Orbit, presented in 2022, is one of the defining models within Armin Strom’s catalogue. With the date displayed on demand via the bezel, it offered an original take on a function that has stayed mostly unchanged for decades. Since the launch, the independent Biel-based manufacture has produced several editions, including the inaugural First Edition, […]

Introducing - Indie Watchmaker Vincent Deprez Launches the Scientific Tourbillon, a Contemporary Take on Traditional Watchmaking Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Jun 23, 2026

Introducing - Indie Watchmaker Vincent Deprez Launches the Scientific Tourbillon, a Contemporary Take on Traditional Watchmaking

Independent watchmaker Vincent Deprez first attracted attention with his Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition, a remarkably accomplished debut that showcased a fully hand-finished tourbillon movement and his ability to manufacture most of the watch himself using traditional methods. Trained at Vacheron Constantin and later active in restoration at Patek Philippe, the Geneva-based French watchmaker now expands […]

Introducing - The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run Monochrome
Jun 22, 2026

Introducing - The Hulsman Tourbillon Solstitium, A Hand-Made Watch with Jumping Hours now Produced in a Limited Run

Make a list of independent watchmakers working outside Switzerland, highlight the most fascinating ones, and Dutch creator Machiel Hulsman will be among them. After leaving a career in IT, Hulsman dedicated himself to watchmaking, gradually acquiring the expertise required to design and manufacture complete movements from scratch, and to produce watches that are all one-of-a-kind […]

Introducing - The Colourful Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection in Pastel Ceramic Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection Jun 20, 2026

Introducing - The Colourful Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection in Pastel Ceramic

Since 2017, Hublot has celebrated the arrival of each summer with a special collection unveiled in Saint-Tropez. For 2026, the brand prepared a series of Big Bang watches, demonstrating Hublot’s mastery of coloured ceramic. The range offers a lighter, seasonal interpretation of the Big Bang and spans manufacture chronographs, a tourbillon and compact automatic models. Two […]

First Look - The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Smaller More Jun 17, 2026

First Look - The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin launched the Freak X. More compact, more accessible and equipped with a conventional crown, it retained the essence of the original Freak (no hands, no dial, and no crown) introduced in 2001 by visionary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, while adapting it for everyday wear and a broader clientele. Now, as the manufacture […]

Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Philippe Stern who served Jun 15, 2026

Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe

Philippe Stern, who served as general director and later president of Patek Philippe from 1977 to 2009, died yesterday at the age of 88. Under his stewardship, the Geneva manufacture was transformed from a small, workshop-scattered operation into the global benchmark for fine watchmaking, a position it holds to this day. He was the third generation of the Stern family to lead the company. His grandfather Charles, alongside his brother Jean, had acquired Patek Philippe from insolvency in 1932 from their position as the firm’s trusted dial supplier. His father Henri had built the company’s modern international distribution network and established the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, laying the commercial foundations on which Philippe would build. Father and son, Henri and Philippe Stern. Image – Patek Philippe Philippe Stern became managing director in 1977, at the height of the quartz crisis. The timing could not have been more demanding. Swiss watch industry employment was collapsing, from roughly 90,000 workers to a fraction of that figure within a few years, as electronic timekeeping rendered the mechanical watch commercially marginal almost overnight. Many established manufacturers collapsed, merged, or abandoned mechanical production entirely. Stern’s response defined his presidency. He kept the tooling, retained his engineers, and committed Patek Philippe irrevocably to mechanical watchmaking at the precise moment the industry consensus ran in the opposit...

Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Jun 15, 2026

Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026

Philippe Stern, the visionary executive who led Patek Philippe through the end of the quartz crisis, kept the family company independent and secured its position at the top of Swiss mechanical high horology, died on June 14th at the age of 88. The Geneva-based company announced Philippe Stern's passing in a statement calling the Patek Philippe Honorary President a "pioneering and visionary spirit" who "left an indelible mark on the history of the family manufacture, preserving its independence and establishing its global stature." Philippe Stern. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. Stern led Patek Philippe as President from 1993 to 2009. During his tenure, he consolidated Patek Philippe's manufacturing at a new flagship manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. He integrated its production capabilities to bring as much as possible in-house. He also oversaw the launch of the Nautilus sport watch in the 1970s, the multi-year project to build the Caliber 89, the most complicated portable mechanical watch at the time, boasting 33 complications. In 2001, he inaugurated the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, an unparalleled exhibition of not only Patek Philippe but of the entire history of horology. Philippe Stern was born in 1938 into a family already at the center of Swiss watchmaking: his grandfather, Charles Stern, had recently acquired the Patek Philippe manufacture in 1932, and his father, Henri Stern, had just joined the company. After studying economics and commerce, Philippe Ste...