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Studio Underd0g Gallery Studio Underd0g

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Studio Underd0g thread.

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Movement Takes Oct 22, 2022

Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references Time+Tide
Certina watches speed dating – Sep 30, 2022

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references

Certina are the definition of an underdog brand, with many of their Swatch Group relatives outshining them in marketing and general fanbase adoration. But, with a closer look, Certina have really carved out their own corner of the affordable Swiss market. A melding of slick style and vintage inspirations allows them to weave their way … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor Time+Tide
Bulova Parking Meter delivers Sep 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor

“I’m going to the archives”. If a movie about the current state of the watch industry were to be released, that would be the main character’s catchphrase. In this last decade, we’ve seen multiple brands go to the creations of their past in search of inspiration for their present. And with such rich histories, who … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes Sep 21, 2022

VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability

When Omega’s eye turned towards their 1957 trilogy of sports watches, the reissued vintage watch trend was sky-high, but not yet at its peak. The last few years have seen brands like Omega perfecting the art of the retro, figuring out which elements needed updating and which ones were best kept in their original state. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Sep 8, 2022

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition

A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100 SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2022

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100

One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Aug 2, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions

Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...

INTERVIEW: Talking colour, size and accessible pricing with Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Jul 20, 2022

INTERVIEW: Talking colour, size and accessible pricing with Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet

Editor’s Note: Back at Watches & Wonders, Zach had the chance to sit down with Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet. In recent years, the brand seems to be going from strength to strength with their BAUMATIC calibres, Riviera designs and other value-driven offerings. Here David Chaumet offers his state of play for Baume & Mercier today … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Talking colour, size and accessible pricing with Baume & Mercier CEO David Chaumet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 100 Jewelers In America Teddy Baldassarre
May 27, 2022

Top 100 Jewelers In America

The United States of America is home to many fine jewelry and watch retailers, many of them family owned, nearly all of them the product of an inspiring story of American entrepreneurship and perseverance. Here we showcase our choices for the Top 100 Jewelers in America, with each state represented by at least one exceptional business, in alphabetical order by state. Along the way, we’ll name a few important watch brands carried at each retailer, and share some tidbits about their histories, awards and honors, and local charitable efforts in their communities.  Alabama Bromberg & Co. Being in business for more than 185 years has allowed Bromberg to establish a solid reputation in Alabama for selling jewelry timepieces, engagement rings, and gifts. In fact, it is the oldest business operating in the entire state. City: BirminghamStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: Rolex, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Victorinox, & more Ware Jewelers This is a jewelry store that considers its customers to be friends, and it delivers service as if that were the case. Ware Jewelers was founded in 1946 and has strived to hold its strong reputation ever since. City: MontgomeryStore Hours: Monday - Saturday 10:00 AM - 6:00 PMReputable Brands Sold: OMEGA, TAG Heuer, David Yurman & more  Alaska Zhaveri Caribbean Gems Established in 1986, Zhaveri Caribbean Gems has been serving its local community for over 30 years. It is uniquely positioned in the busies...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Watch community unites for Ukraine, Lewis Hamilton’s triple wristing, separation anxiety… Time+Tide
Hamilton s triple wristing separation May 13, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Watch community unites for Ukraine, Lewis Hamilton’s triple wristing, separation anxiety…

Having your apartment stripped to bare concrete slab, with carpet, toilet bowls and light bulbs all thieved, is not a fever dream, but the new reality of Watches in Ukraine magazine editor, Natalie Yarova. Recently, she’s swapped her day job reviewing watches and interviewing key watch industry players to undertake tactical medicine training in an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Watch community unites for Ukraine, Lewis Hamilton’s triple wristing, separation anxiety… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick)

Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Everything you need to know about NOMOS Time+Tide
Nomos If you’ve been around Mar 6, 2022

Everything you need to know about NOMOS

If you’ve been around the watch hobby for a while, NOMOS is one of the brands that will have surely stood out when you first came across it. They’re a unique company for a heap of reasons, but the main appeal is the instantaneous charm that runs through their DNA. It’s not easy to claim … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about NOMOS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site Time+Tide
Seiko Monaco” chronographs Mar 1, 2022

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors.  Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches Time+Tide
Feb 8, 2022

Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches

In the eyes of the larger watch marketplace, steel is the king. As a more entry-priced metal, with qualities highly suited for daily wear, it makes sense that the majority of watch buyers are drawn to these pieces. But today, with steel being all the rage, a bit of an ironic dilemma has arisen. While … ContinuedThe post Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 Time+Tide
Rolex price rises Feb 7, 2022

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. A riff on Nina Simone’s classic song Feeling Good is a nice accompaniment in these opening days of 2022, particularly when it comes to the … ContinuedThe post A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 “pink Jan 21, 2022

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia

Continuing the steady pace of personnel changes since French telecoms tycoon Patrick Drahi acquired Sotheby’s in 2019, the auction house has just announced an overhaul of its watches and jewellery departments in Asia. The chairman of Jewellery and Watches for the region is Wenhao Yu, formerly of Beijing-based Poly Auction. The jewellery department will be led by Regine Ngan, while the watch department promoted from within with Joey Luk being elevated to the top job. The trio will report to Josh Pullan, who was appointed  Head of Global Luxury Division just last year after almost a decade as a manager in Sotheby’s digital and e-commerce departments, which no doubt explains Sotheby’s volume of online-only auctions. Left to right: Regine Ngan, Wenhao Yu, and Joey Luk A veteran of watch auctions despite her relative youth, Ms Luk was most recently Head of Sale, having been recruited to Sotheby’s from Phillips in 2018. Ms Luk succeeds Sam Hines who will “take on an advisory role for Sotheby’s worldwide Watches sales efforts”. Mr Hines led Sotheby’s to a record year in 2021, where watch auctions totalled over US$150 million. Sotheby’s also claimed the title of most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in 2021 with the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” once belonging to an Egyptian prince that sold for US$9.57 million (pictured at top). He will be leaving Sotheby’s with a bang – his closing act will be a single-owner sale of 41 Patek Philippe wr...

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2022

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Are watches really gaining in popularity?  The answer may seem obvious.  Auction houses and certain watch designs are setting all kinds of records.  Wait lists for hype timepieces … ContinuedThe post Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Collection Longines have Dec 22, 2021

VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection

Longines have bided their time in launching a comprehensive line of wrist-ready pilot watches that are suited to any occasion. While their historical contributions in aviation can’t be ignored, working alongside gargantuan names such as Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh and Philip Van Horn Weems, the Heritage lineup of watches that Longines have sold for years … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Taking flight with the Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2021

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch

History’s most famous reversible wristwatch would never have been invented were it not for Joseph Ford Sherer, then a lieutenant in the 44th Regiment of Sylhet Light Infantry of the East India Company’s army. The story begins in the middle of the 19th century in Manipur, a state in east British India, where Lieutenant Sherer observes locals play a game known as sagol kangjei. Translating as “horse hockey”, the game was long played by local royalty. The game has players on horseback wielding sticks to hit a ball across a rectangular field. The Lieutenant reported his observations to his boss, Captain Robert Stewart. The two men eventually began to play the game, which evolved into what is now known as polo. In March 1859 Sherer and Stewart established their own polo club, Silchar Kangjai Club, and four years later the earliest written rulebook for polo was. With that, the pair started a long tradition of polo-playing among British soldiers in India. And soon polo would find its way around the world with polo-playing soldiers across the Commonwealth – the first polo match was played in Europe sometime in the late 1860s. Lieutenant Joseph Sherer, Assistant to the Superintendent of Cachar (second from left), with his bearers, Manipur, 1861. Image – National Army Museum As the game grew in popularity, a problem arose: polo players would often damage the crystals on their wristwatches, sometimes with errant mallets. During a visit to India in 1930, César de Trey ...

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m SJX Watches
Nov 5, 2021

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m

One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.