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Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches SJX Watches
Blancpain one Jun 13, 2025

Visit: A Look Inside Biver Watches

The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...

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A Report from Blade Show, the World’s Largest Knife Show Worn & Wound
Jun 11, 2025

A Report from Blade Show, the World’s Largest Knife Show

Editor’s Note: Over the weekend, Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones found themselves in Atlanta for this year’s edition of Blade Show, the self-proclaimed largest knife show in the world. This was Garrett’s third time in attendance and Devin’s first, and between the two of them they were able to see a lot of knives, connect with a bunch of brands, and find relationships between the EDC and watch communities that we always suspected were there. Here are some of their impressions of the event, along with a bunch of photos, and tips for attending if you decide to hit up a Blade Show event in the future (in addition to the Atlanta show, there are Blade Show events held in Fort Worth, Salt Lake City, and Clinton, SC). Watch out for a post later this week highlighting some of the watch spotting at this year’s Blade Show. DEVIN PENNYPACKER: This was my first time attending Blade Show, a knife and EDC gear show I had been aware of and wanted to participate in for quite some time. The sheer amount of brands, tables, and knives on display at this event far exceeded my expectations, and even after three days, I am positive I missed half of what was on display. For those who have attended a Windup Watch Fair or similar shows, the enthusiasm will feel familiar, filling the air with energy and excitement. Three days of winding your way through various tables with every edge and facet catching the light to draw you in like a fly to a zapper.  It is intoxicating and disorienti...

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Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection

For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to.  This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber.  Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...

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First Look – The 2025 Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Tribute to Sir Stirling Moss and GTS Power Control Monochrome
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jun 10, 2025

First Look – The 2025 Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Tribute to Sir Stirling Moss and GTS Power Control

It’s that time of year when gentlemen drivers fine-tune the motors of their classic and vintage racing cars in preparation for the iconic Mille Miglia endurance race. Chopard, the official timing partner of the Mille Miglia since 1988, enjoys one of the most enduring partnerships between a watch brand and a motorsports event. Celebrating its […]

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Introducing – The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display Monochrome
Hautlence Helix Central Cylindrical Tourbillon Jun 10, 2025

Introducing – The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display

Born in 2004, Hautlence – whose name is an anagram of the Swiss city of Neuchâtel – has had its ups and downs but somehow remained dear to our hearts here at MONOCHROME. Disruptive, built around unusual time displays, housed in bold TV-shaped cases, the brand embarked on a new chapter in 2022 under the […]

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Hands-On With The Colorful Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series Fratello
Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series Jun 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Colorful Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series

For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, summer is just around the corner, so it’s time to start thinking about your daily watch for the coming months. While switching up straps is an easy way of changing the looks of your watch, more and more brands have started catering to those who want a […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series to read the full article.

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Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jun 7, 2025

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

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Bulova s MIL-SHIPS Went from Jun 7, 2025

How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf

In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver Fratello
Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Jun 7, 2025

Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver

The 600m-water-resistant Defy A3648, known as the Defy Plongeur, was a proper tool watch for professionals when it debuted in 1969. When Zenith launched a Revival version of the A3648 in 2024, brand fans rejoiced. At the same time, the Le Locle-based watchmaker introduced the modern Defy Extreme Diver, a worthy evolution model of the […] Visit Zenith Introduces Shadow Versions Of The Defy Extreme Diver And Defy Revival Diver to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors Fratello
Longines Conquest Heritage Jun 7, 2025

Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors

Last year, Longines celebrated the 70th anniversary of its Conquest collection. The brand surprised us with three very attractive re-editions called the Conquest Heritage, each with a central power reserve indicator. But alongside those were two time-only models, one with a black dial and rose gold hardware and another with a silver dial and yellow […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors to read the full article.

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[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 6, 2025

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces

Ming launched their first watch, the 17.01, back in the summer of 2017. That watch sold out quickly, as did subsequent watches, and over a relatively short span of the time, the brand achieved an almost reverential status among affordable independent and micro-brands. The watches, from the beginning, have been stylish, highly distinctive, and have pushed design boundaries.  Our thoughts on Ming have evolved along with the brand itself. While the 17.01 is still easily recognizable as quintessential Ming, it’s remarkable to consider how much the brand has accomplished since that watch’s debut. Through rigorous roadmapping and experimentation, Ming has evolved into a significant indie brand with an ultra-clear design language. In the brand’s earliest days, it would have been easy to lump them in with other small brands finding their way in a competitive watch landscape. But over time, and particularly with their most recent crop of releases, it’s become clear that their ambition and ingenuity set them apart.  Some examples? Both are discussed in this video, but the use of white emitting lume on the 37.02 Minimalist and the impressive water resistance of the 37.09 are both illustrative of ways in which the brand is willing to invest in finding new ways to make their watches. The creative use of luminescent material has been a hallmark of Ming watches from the very beginning, and they’re rightly proud of figuring out a way to mix lume that truly emits white, somethi...

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Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module.  Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...

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