Hodinkee
Introducing: The Aera M-1 – The Young Brand's First Field Watch
The brand introduces its smallest case size in two new manually wound entries in the lineup with the "Field" and "Blackbird."
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer
Titoni is an independent family-owned watch brand founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, now in the hands of great-grandsons Marc and Olivier Schluep. With a variety of contemporary collections and even an in-house automatic powering its Line 1919 dress watch collection, the genuine interest in this brand resides in its remakes of […]
SJX Watches
Inlaid Silk Thread for the Ressence Type 8
The latest from Ressence is a departure from the usual cosmetic variation. Created for its Tokyo retailer Shellman, the Type 8 Indigo features a dial inlaid with indigo-dyed Japanese silk thread that’s been tightly packed into shallow recesses on the dial surface to form a swirling motif. This watch is one of several editions conceived by Shellman that are cumulatively known as the Indigo project. Each is a collaboration with an independent watchmaker that sports a blue dial, in a nod to the traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique. Initial thoughts The Type 8 was originally the entry-level model within the brand’s catalogue, fulfilling founder Benoît Mintiens’s wish to make his distinctive watches more accessible. At CHF25,000, the Type 8 Indigo cost almost double the basic Type 8. So it is no longer entry level, but the price is justified by the hand-made dial that takes two days to complete according to Ressence. Importantly, the silk-inlaid dial looks good and complements the brand’s aesthetic perfectly. While the Ressence is not typically known for traditional decoration crafts, the dial decoration adds a little more variety to the brand’s watches, which are typically minimalist and hyper modern. At the same time, this is also more interesting than Ressence’s recent limited editions, most of which have been simple dial variations. Indigo-dyed silk Being based on the standard Type 8, the Indigo edition retains the same titanium case that’s 42.9 mm in...
Monochrome
Introducing – A Brand New Ressence Collection, the Compact Type 9 Grey and Aqua
Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]
Time+Tide
The Type 9 continues a simplified chapter for Ressence
Ressence introduces its most affordable and simple watch yet, with all the refinements that make it basic(ally perfect).The post The Type 9 continues a simplified chapter for Ressence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua
The all-new Ressence Type 9 is a sleek creation in either warm gray or a fresh shade of aqua blue. Its pebble-like titanium case measures 39mm wide, making it the smallest Ressence timepiece ever. The watch is a slimmed-down and refined version of the Type 8 and shows only the hours and minutes. It’s not […] Visit Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, we are celebrating our 100th-episode milestone with a special Q&A;. We asked you to send us your questions, and you delivered. We’ve gathered, sorted, and selected said questions over the past few weeks, and in today’s episode, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas come together to answer them. We cover […] Visit Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special to read the full article.
Hodinkee
House Of Craft: Independent Watchmaker Simon Brette On His Journey To Watches, And What The Future Holds
In the third installment of our House of Craft video series, we sit down with one of today's most renowned young independent watchmakers.
Monochrome
First Look – The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento
Hublot has always been associated with the fusion of disparate materials, starting with Carlo Crocco’s surprising cocktail of a gold case and rubber strap on board the flagship Classic Original. Hublot’s latest watch dedicated to tennis legend Novak Djokovic takes the “art of fusion” to unimaginable levels and even slips in the much-desired sustainability card. […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Circula Facet
The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...
Time+Tide
7 of the best ana-digi watches when you need the best of both worlds
Non-traditional and utilitarian - here are our favourites.The post 7 of the best ana-digi watches when you need the best of both worlds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Falsely Shattered Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue
Let’s talk about one of the worst nightmares of a watch enthusiast… Knocking the watch on a door handle or the corner of a counter and shattering the sapphire crystal into dozens of pieces. We’ve all seen such images on social media, and it scares us to the bones. Unfortunately, it can happen. To avoid […]
Fratello
Uplift The Holiday Spirit With 14 New Swatch Watches
Are you having trouble warming up to the holiday spirit? Say no more; I know exactly what you mean. The key to enjoying it - mind you, this is my approach to all the days surrounding Xmas, so it’s by no means a solution for everyone - is to not take everything too seriously. And […] Visit Uplift The Holiday Spirit With 14 New Swatch Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Bremont Presents the Terra Nova 38… In Pink
The leading watch of the brand’s transformation, the Terra Nova collection was launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders as a brand new line for Bremont. A retro-inspired take on the field watch, it was first presented as an instrument with classic colours and purposeful complication, including a chronograph and a version with a […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Amida Digitrend Steel, Black and Gold Editions
Brands today are enthusiastically revisiting the watch designs of the 1970s, riding a wave of nostalgia that has struck a chord with consumers. These retro-inspired pieces often feature updated characteristics, adding modern functionality to vintage aesthetics. Among the standout designs of that era is the driver’s watch-a timepiece with a digital side display. While this […]
Fratello
Introducing: Two New Editions Of The Amida Digitrend In Black And Gold
This year, designer Matthieu Allègre and Depancel founder Clément Meynier brought back the Amida Digitrend. Its ultra-’70s makes heads turn, and with updated technology inside, it’s now more reliable than ever. The Digitrend Take-Off Edition sold out in a flash, so now it’s time to introduce you to the watches that will join the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Two New Editions Of The Amida Digitrend In Black And Gold to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Amida brings back the groovy 1970s Digitrend for its 50th anniversary
Amida brings back a pseudo-digital display, incorporating a 1970s patent into a modern revival.The post Amida brings back the groovy 1970s Digitrend for its 50th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300
Last week, Jacques Bianchi released what is probably their most boring watch in recent memory, and the results speak for themselves. Compared to many of the brand’s recent releases, the new Jacques Bianchi JB300 is inarguably their most conventional, forfeiting many of the details that helped set the many iterations of the JB200 apart. But in that simplicity there’s magic, and this latest entry in the Jacques Bianchi catalog is a strong new addition to the military-inspired dive watch category, offering collectors a rock-solid option at a fantastic value. Put simply, the JB300 is a classic military diver in the truest sense, while still managing to hold onto a little bit of the dramatic flair we’ve come to expect from a brand that typically decorates their dials with divers and cephalopods. The JB300 draws the bulk of its inspiration from the original JB300, an early ‘90s dive watch issued by the French Army to combat divers. While not an exact 1-to-1 reproduction of that watch, which seems to have been produced in extremely limited quantities (less than 1000 by most counts), the new JB300 is a very close facsimile. Jacques Bianchi has done a good job updating the original JB300 for a modern audience though, toying with the specifics of both dial and case to bring them more comfortably into the 21st century. Part of this was likely dictated by necessity. A cursory search will find that most vintage examples of the JB300 feature the symbol for l’Armée de Terre (t...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Bernhard Lederer To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The founder of Lederer Timepieces will discuss the history and evolution of the escapement.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]
Monochrome
Interview – What to Expect from Universal Genève when it Relaunches in 2026? Georges Kern Gives us all the Answers
About a year ago, Georges Kern, also known as the CEO of Breitling, made a resounding announcement for the watch community; the acquisition of historic brand Universal Genève and its planned return as a watchmaker in 2026. A brand known for its innovative designs and movements, benefitting from a certain aura in the collecting community, […]
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why George Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement Revolutionised Mechanical Watchmaking
Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London. He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Arty, Fresh Paulin Modul D Manual Comes Straight from Glasgow, Scotland
While many will be familiar with anOrdain, the young brand specialised in accessible yet highly appealing vitreous (grand feu) enamel dials in all possible colours of the spectrum, there’s another brand coming from Glasgow, Scotland that should be under your radar; Paulin Watches. And the two are closely related, being owned by the same individuals […]
Monochrome
Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
In late 2022, luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton announced a rather surprising but promising concept, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. A biennial prize organized by its Swiss-based watch manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, its mission is “to recognize a passion for watchmaking savoir-faire, creativity, and innovation in the pursuit of excellence, […]
Fratello
The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights
Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The most expensive Studio Underd0g ever at the last Pizza Party ever
We hosted the last ever pizza party last week, and in the process raised US$17,000 for charity thanks to the Pizza Unique auction.The post The most expensive Studio Underd0g ever at the last Pizza Party ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto
Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Limited Edition Orient Bambino 38 Models
Japanese watchmaker Orient is one of those rare brands that produce in-house models at very affordable prices, rivalling and often beating Japanese juggernauts Seiko and Citizen with value propositions. The best-selling Bambino series is clearly very popular, particularly the recent 38mm collection. The latest two pieces don’t break the mould, but do introduce fresh dial […]
WatchAdvice
Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!
As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...
Fratello
Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077
Breguet introduced the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 back in 2015. The watch displayed awe-inspiring watchmaking inventiveness. How about two balance wheels, two gear trains, an arc-shaped minute totalizer, a power reserve indicator, and a mesmerizing open-worked look on both the front and back? What more could you ask for? Well, if I put on my […] Visit Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 to read the full article.