Hodinkee
Dispatch: We Spent A Night At The Audemars Piguet Hotel (Which Is Not Really Called That)
Technically, people, it's called the Hôtel de Horlogers. Either way, feel free to scatter my ashes here when I am gone.
Results for Côtes de Genève
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S
Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...
Time+Tide
Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming?
The biggest buzzword in the watch world these days is “hype” – and nobody does hype better than New York-based streetwear brand Supreme. While their signature colour is red, everything they touch seems to turn to gold. While their own goods are immensely popular around the world, Supreme has engaged in all sorts of collaborations … ContinuedThe post Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
Quill & Pad
The Omega Watches Of Michael Phelps, The Most Successful Olympian. Ever. - Reprise
American swimmer Michael Phelps is the most decorated Olympian in history, having won 23 gold medals over the course of 5 Olympic Games. In addition, he is an Omega ambassador and has been since 2004, a longstanding partnership. What watches did he wear during the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro? Find out here!
Time+Tide
How the blacked-out Rolex Milgauss became a celebrity favourite
Jennifer Anniston, Anthony Kiedis, Jeff Goldblum, Conan O'Brien... Celebrities can't get enough of the blacked-out Rolex Milgauss.The post How the blacked-out Rolex Milgauss became a celebrity favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: HODINKEE Staffers Share Their Fathers' Watches
Now that we're all grown up, we – the men and women of HODINKEE – live and breathe watches. Here are the pieces we saw our dads wearing when we were impressionable little kids. It's a reminder to all you dads out there: Teach the children well!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover
Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Royal Oak Supposedly Worn By Chanel Designer And Goth Lord Karl Lagerfeld
I donned my best all-black outfit to size it up at Phillips HQ in Geneva before it heads to auction this Friday.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders
Anyone that’s attended a major watch fair – Baselworld, SIHH, Watches and Wonders, less so Geneva Watch Days – knows that the scale and grandeur of these shindigs pushes the bounds of belief. Impossible is nothing when it comes to the extravagant architecture and wild scope of vision that brands unveil to help get their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277
This past Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko dropped a ton of really cool novelties. There was the Evolution 9 chronographs and GMTs, the white lion high jewellery piece and, of course, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. But that first wave of releases wasn’t enough for the Japanese manufacture. While not technically Watches and Wonders … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity
This year at Watches and Wonders, there were some new kids in on the block. For the first time ever, street and culture title Highsnobiety was invited to the media table, along with the usual specialist, trade and mainstream suspects. And you know what, it was a joy to have them there. Highsnob’s lifestyle and … ContinuedThe post Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders
When I went to Geneva for Watches & Wonders, the best way to describe the journey would be a horological food coma of bliss. Never before had I engaged with so many brands and timepieces at once, a delectable 40-brand course meal for a week straight. Of course, with such a wide menu of watches … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499
Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders
A couple of years ago, when I first started @timepeacelove, my Instagram page dedicated to my passion for watches, I made a joke to my wife saying, “Hey, maybe one day I’ll get the chance to experience Watches and Wonders in Geneva.” I would have never thought that day would come, but my experience last month … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé Champagne: As Thrilling As Its Siblings
Ken Gargett recently attended a wonderful Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque dinner at the Queensland Art Gallery with focus on the Rosé. At the dinner, however, the superb Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs and also the current-release Belle Époque, the 2013, were opened for tasting. Here he shares his thoughts on these spectacular champagnes.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Go Behind The Scenes of Our Watches & Wonders Coverage
HODINKEE staff photographer Tiffany Wade turns her camera on the quieter moments of our big trip to Geneva.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph
Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S
Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey
There has been a lot to cover of late and leading up to Watches & Wonders Geneva there is plenty more on the horizon. So today I want to highlight two new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers that recently launched, as well as the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe that launched earlier today. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Testing a watch-protection sticker kit: Is it like living with a plastic cover on your sofa?
Back in September 2019, during my visit to Australia’s first Watchfest, I happened to win a RX-8 watch protection sticker kit. Whilst I was aware that there were such protection kits out there, at the time I never really thought that they would be for me. Just like the old image of plastic covers over lounge … ContinuedThe post Testing a watch-protection sticker kit: Is it like living with a plastic cover on your sofa? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)
A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Overdoses On Patek Philippe
In order to understand watches, I knew I had to understand Patek. So I went to Geneva for a tour of the brand's mothership museum. Lesson one: Don't show up late to a place that's all about timekeeping.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Vacheron Constantin is starting the year in a big way with the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A double-faced grand complication, the Bacchus is part of the brand’s annual collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces. The Bacchus ranks amongst the most complex watches produced by Vacheron Constantin, thanks to the cal. 2755 GC16 that’s made up of over 800 parts. Though the Geneva watchmaker has used variations of the same calibre in past watches, the Bacchus is unusual even amongst its siblings because of its case decoration, which includes both hand engraving and gem setting, forming a grapevine motif in relief on both sides of the case. The star chart display on the reverse of the Bacchus Initial thoughts The Bacchus is the sort of grand complication that makes a statement, belonging in the same category of watch as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. It’s extremely large, very complex, and impossible to miss on the wrist. Though a one-off creation, the Bacchus is not the first two-faced grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. In fact, several past models, notably the Phoenix of 2018, have contained variations of the same calibre found in the Bacchus. But the Bacchus has a unique decoration, in fact one of the most elaborate to date. The minute repeater is activated by turning the bezel, leaving the case free of a traditional slide Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications are frequently engraved, but Bacchus seems to be the first – or at least...
Revolution
Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours: Blancpain’s Tourbillon for the Depths
With the revamped Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours, the Vallée de Joux brand once again splashes sophistication and luxury on its legendary diver.
Deployant
Review: new Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 Mosquito
Comprehensive review of the new Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 Mosquito, the model inspired by the legendary de Havilland Mosquito aircraft.
Time+Tide
PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom - the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra
What did you do to express your creativity over the COVID-19 lockdowns? Get a sourdough starter-kit? Sit with your kids and fill endless reams of paper with drawings from Kids Art Hub YouTube tutorials? Learn to knit? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Max Büsser designed a watch together. Comfortingly for the rest of us, who aren’t … ContinuedThe post PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Imaginarium of Dr. Woo: Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Excalibur Monotourbillon
An instinctive rulebreaker, tattoo master Dr. Woo takes an iconic haute horology timepiece and guides it to the stars
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...