Deployant
New and reviewed: H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
We go hands-on with the new H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon in funky blue fumé dial, and discussed technicalities with Edouard Meylan.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Deployant
Hodinkee
Introducing: The H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon And The MB&F; x H. Moser LM10
The chocolate and peanut butter of independent watch brand collaborations.
Time+Tide
Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection
For some time now, I think we can all agree, Longines has been on a hot streak like few other brands. All of their additions to the fantastic Heritage Collection have ranged from commendable to award-winning fire, and new iterations of the HydroConquest and Master Collections have continued to punch well above their RRP weight. They … ContinuedThe post Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sotheby’s Masterworks Of Time Part Three Is Dedicated To Treasures From Breguet’s Workshop And Other Historical Delicacies (Updated With Results)
Following part one and two of this series of auctions, the third in this four-part series by Sotheby’s called Masterworks of Time is entitled "Abraham-Louis Breguet, Horologist Extraordinaire." Extraordinarily, this auction comprising only pocket watches by Breguet and other masters will take place online, beginning on June 3, 2020 at 4:00 pm CET.
Time+Tide
How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing…
Why are vampires invariably such jaded fellows? I reckon immortality has something to do with it. Sure, the wild hunger to feast on human blood must prove an inconvenient business at the best of times. And, yes, coffins make for uncomfortable beds. But I suspect the world-weary demeanour of the undead stems mainly from their … ContinuedThe post How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Full-Set Seamaster, A Fiery Gold GMT-Master, And A Clock Owned By Elvis
This week's round-up of vintage watches (and more!) from around the web.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz introduces Paillonnée Enamel “Fleur de Lys” and “Fleur de Vie”
Jaquet Droz was historically renowned for elaborate and ornamental pocket watches, often decorated with enamel and pearls, reflecting the brand’s on the Chinese market, which demanded lavishly decorated timepieces. The brand’s newest pair of paillonné enamel wristwatches – the Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée – embody the brand’s past aesthetic sensibilities. French for “spangled”, a reference to the tiny decorative pieces of gold foil that make up the pattern, paillonné enamelling has been a specialty of Jaquet Droz since its modern-day revival, starting with the very first Grande Seconde Paillonnée of 2004 that had a dial made by enamel artisan Anita Porchet. Jaquet Droz has since mastered the fine art of paillonné enamelling, with recent editions like the Paillonnée Enamel “Gold Arabesques” featuring dials made in its own workshops. Initial thoughts The new pair of paillonné enamel watches do not fail to impress with their vivid colours and patterns – gold paillons against translucent blue enamel over guilloché makes for a dynamic combination that immediately catches the eye. And up close, which is the best way to appreciate the enamelling, the gold paillons are tiny yet intricate and nuanced. The ring circling the sub-dials on both watches is made of 18k red gold Out of the two, I gravitate towards the Fleur de Vie due to its 35 mm case, which is fitting for a dress watch, esp...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch
OK, this legit feels like a Friday. It’s 3:30, and as we say in Australia, I’m absolutely stinging for a tin. Translation: a cold beer would be very pleasant if you happen to have one? I’m back in the house, out of my pimped-up pool shed that I now call home during the week while … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why …
Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but since its inception, founders and brothers Nick and Giles English have made sure that the hard-charging British watchmaker has been at the forefront of not only innovation but also military collaboration and integration. In fact, you can find a Bremont strapped to the wrist of a … ContinuedThe post The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever Grand Seiko dial (and, guess what, no Snowflakes)
Editor’s note: If you’re wondering, Battle Royale is a relatively new segment where someone in the team nominates a collection or, in this case, a category – Grand Seiko dials – and we figuratively fight to the death for our favourite from said group until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever Grand Seiko dial (and, guess what, no Snowflakes) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you?
If variety is the spice of life, Bulgari are condiment connoisseurs when it comes to the Octo Finissimo collection. Available in titanium, ceramic, carbon, sandblasted gold and now stainless steel, the many faceted cases of the range offer a dizzying array of different finishes. These external variations are hardly superficial either, they make a profound … ContinuedThe post Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction
Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby’s Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone … ContinuedThe post A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko First SBGW258 in yellow gold, SBGW257 in platinum and SBGW259 in proprietary titanium
As we should all know by now, 2020 is the 60th anniversary of the launch of Grand Seiko, and while they have released a number of watches linked to this special birthday, this collection of Grand Seiko “firsts” might be the most significant yet. Based on the first-ever Grand Seiko to be born in the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko First SBGW258 in yellow gold, SBGW257 in platinum and SBGW259 in proprietary titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable”
There’s a watch out there that could genuinely change your life. It could make you happier, healthier and more successful. It could help you regain a sense of control in these messed-up times and add some much-needed pep to your step. The best part? You can pick one up here (no longer available) for the … ContinuedThe post This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater References 5074P And 5078P: The Great Chime-Off! - Reprise: The Great Chime-Off! - Reprise
GaryG had the pleasure to handle, listen to, photograph, and write about two truly splendid minute repeaters, both property of a good friend: Patek Philippe Reference 5074P and Reference 5078P. They both look great, but you’re probably most interested in how they sound. Well, here's your chance. Welcome to the great Patek Philippe chime-off!
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Clean Red Submariner, A Tasteful Zenith Chronograph, And A Military-Issued Breitling
And more in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the internet.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrating the week we helped Zenith launch the final El Primero 50th Anniversary Edition and Billie Eilish’s baller new watch
It’s Friday, it’s knockoff, and it’s a beading glass of vodka and dry ginger I have at my left hand. What a week! Most of it was dominated by the Mission: Possible attempt to film a feature-length special on a Sunday and then publish it at 3am Australian time on Thursday morning. It was ambitious. We … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrating the week we helped Zenith launch the final El Primero 50th Anniversary Edition and Billie Eilish’s baller new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tribute To Peter Baumberger (1939-2010): RIP You Complete And Utter Bastard!
This year, 2020, marks the tenth anniversary of the death of one of the greats of the modern watch industry, Peter Baumberger. Dr. Helmut Crott, his longtime friend and founder of the Dr. Crott auction house in Germany, recently sent me a tribute he had written for the occasion. But first I’d like to first take the opportunity to share an anecdote of my own regarding “Peter, the utter bastard,” as I will always (fondly) think of him.
Time+Tide
Black Bay flashbacks! The ultimate Tudor Black Bay Buyer’s Guide, with 27 key references and a call on the best one yet
Ever since it was unveiled at Baselworld way back in 2012 (Fun fact: Andrew’s first Basel!), Tudor’s extensive and diverse range of Black Bays have represented some of the best value-for-money propositions on the market. Genuinely, every time anyone asks me what watch they should buy for around $5000 AUD, the answer is always the … ContinuedThe post Black Bay flashbacks! The ultimate Tudor Black Bay Buyer’s Guide, with 27 key references and a call on the best one yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Retailer Spotlight: Scherer's Jewelers in Buffalo, NY, And Armstrong Rockwell In Hartford, CT
“Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.” – Theodore Roosevelt
SJX Watches
Phillips to Offer F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon and Resonance
Postponed from its usual mid-May date to end-June, Phillips’ spring watch auction is Geneva is nonetheless the full works, with 214 lots on offer, including the four spectacular Patek Philippe watches from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver, including a ref. 1518 “pink on pink” and a second-series ref. 2499. Also amongst the offerings at the Geneva Watch Auction XI are two important examples of contemporary watchmaking – a pair of F.P. Journe souscription watches consigned by the original owner – Lorenz Bäumer. A jeweller whose workshop is on the storied Place Vendome in Paris, Mr Bäumer is perhaps best known for crafted the tiara worn by Charlene Wittstock when the former Olympic swimmer wed Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2011. But Mr Bäumer is also a watch aficionado who met François-Paul Journe via a mutual friend. Mr Journe had then decided to launch his own brand by taking inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet, who had offered clients the opportunity to purchase a newly-developed, fairly-affordable watch by first putting down a deposit – thus “subscribing” to the offer. The jeweller became a “subscriber” and paid the down payment for a Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite “Souscription”, subsequently receiving the watch numbered “14/20” on the dial. A year later, Mr Bäumer was approached once again to “subscribe” for the new Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”. He took up the offer, and again got the watch number “14”....
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Souscription F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance And Tourbillon Souverain, Coming Up At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction 11
Two watches of enormous horological and historical importance, from a single collection.
Revolution
The “Tōgè Special Edition” Exclusive Collaboration Between Grand Seiko and The Watches of Switzerland Group
A timepiece that celebrates the combined legacies of Grand Seiko and the Watche of Switzerland Group.
Time+Tide
8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers
Sinn is a brand that is stealthily emerging from the shadows. The Frankfurt-based manufacturer favours slow incremental changes to their product line, making their watches better every year, but never reinventing the wheel as they go about it. This year, the new collection has looked to improve on a few older references, as well as … ContinuedThe post 8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Discusses Resonance With PhD Of Quantum Physics And Watch Collector In An Easy-To-Understand Way (Video)
Claude Greisler, co-founder and technical director of Armin Strom, talks resonance for the layperson with watch collector Michael J. Biercuk, professor of quantum physics and technology at the University of Sydney and CEO and founder of Q-CTRL.
Time+Tide
After years of middling it, Baume & Mercier novelties are peaking, and people should be reconsidering
Baume & Mercier’s collection of timepieces has been on a discernible upward trajectory for some time now – after years lost in the woods with middling collections and co-brands, the Geneva outfit is quietly making waves. And 2020 looks like it’s going to be another level again, with B&M; layering up their sensational Baumatic model … ContinuedThe post After years of middling it, Baume & Mercier novelties are peaking, and people should be reconsidering appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Steve wants help with a spreadsheet template for his watch collection, and because it’s a pandemic, we’re doing a call out
“Thanks for the emails Andrew,” the email from Steve begins. “All watch info is appreciated in these boring times.” And these boring times are certainly reaching peak levels for poor Steve. The email continues: “I recently spent a couple of days spreadsheeting my watches. I thought there might be a template on the net somewhere … ContinuedThe post Steve wants help with a spreadsheet template for his watch collection, and because it’s a pandemic, we’re doing a call out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Art Deco Patek Philippe Pocket Watch, A GMT-Master II With A Military Twist, And A Wrist-Mounted Camera
And more from this week in vintage watches from around the web.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series
Earlier this year, I paid a visit to Seiko’s headquarters in Ginza, Tokyo. I was there for two reasons. One was to present my Ideal Watch Size Survey to their design, product and development teams. The other was to find out more about a particular Grand Seiko I had recently purchased, the SBGZ001. Launched in 2019 to celebrate the Spring Drive’s 20th Anniversary, the SBGZ001 is an extraordinarily finished version of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series from the Elegance collection. What started as a few questions from a collector ended up being a dive into how a significant new line of watches at Grand Seiko was born. In the interest of full disclosure: The Armoury, which I own, has been a retailer of Grand Seiko in Hong Kong for about six years now. I have been collecting Grand Seiko for about nine years. Neither the SBGZ001 nor the SBGY003 detailed in this article are available for sale at the store. But they are special so I wanted to delve further into their creation. The Credor Eichi I, 2013 First some background. Back in 2013, I bought a Credor Eichi I, a well-known watch in certain circles for its exceptional finishing. It was made in the Micro Artist Studio (MAS), a division within the Seiko-Epson Shiojiri plant where all the cutting-edge high horology – namely Spring Drive movements – is designed and made. That includes things like the Credor Minute Repeater, the Grand Seiko 8 Day Power Reserve and the Credor Eichi II. I toured the facility in 2014 and visite...
Hodinkee
Retailer Spotlight: Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers in Milwaukee, WI, and Right Time International Watch Center in Highlands Ranch, CO
Our two retailers in this edition feature both the established favorites and some lesser-known brands.