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Ceramic

Zirconium-dioxide sintered ceramic; scratch-proof, colour-fast. Rado 1986, Rolex Cerachrom 2005.

First Look – The Bold Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Wotto Limited Edition Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Wotto Limited Mar 11, 2025

First Look – The Bold Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Wotto Limited Edition

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon collection needs little introduction. One of the first accessible takes on the concept of 1970s-inspired sporty-elegant watches with integrated bracelets, the collection launched in 2017-18 has expanded to incredible levels to integrate classic time-and-date watches, chronographs, ceramic models, openworked watches and even sportier Venturer editions. Some versions did catch our attention […]

Citizen Shoots for New Heights of Luxury with Launch of "Citizen Premi Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Feb 28, 2025

Citizen Shoots for New Heights of Luxury with Launch of "Citizen Premi

Japan’s Citizen Watch Company, founded in 1918, is known today by most aficionados for its affordable and technically forward-thinking timepieces, and for good reason: the firm introduced the revolutionary Eco-Drive technology to watchmaking and has been building upon it ever since, with pioneering innovations like Satellite Wave GPS functionality. Now, as it enters the third decade of the 21st Century, Citizen has embarked on a mission to establish itself in another sector of the watchmaking world, as a purveyor of luxury timepieces that hold their own not only with Japanese competitors like Seiko and Grand Seiko but with Swiss and German contemporaries as well. To that end, the brand has launched Citizen Premier, a new category that it says will focus on “redefin[ing] luxury timepieces by fusing over 100 years of innovation, style, and craftsmanship.” Initially, Citizen Premier will be the umbrella category that links two of its existing product families: the all-titanium Attesa models and the recently inaugurated, all-mechanical Series 8. For the launch of Citizen Premier, Citizen is showcasing two of the first timepieces to fall under the new, luxury-focused banner: one, a limited edition from the Series 8 collection with a striking ice-blue textured dial; the other, the first Attesa model to combine a “Super Titanium” case with a ceramic bezel.  The Citizen Series 8 831 Mechanical Limited Edition is the latest piece to emerge from the Series 8 collection’...

Introducing – An Unexpected Tuscany Dial for the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph Following Feb 28, 2025

Introducing – An Unexpected Tuscany Dial for the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph

Following the release of Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties for 2025, another less publicised model caught us by surprise. While ostensibly a Code 11.59 Chronograph in a two-tone blue ceramic and white gold case, this special edition strays from the collection’s signature dials and incorporates a rare Tuscany dial in blue, something that will ring […]

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models Feb 25, 2025

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph

In 2023, four years after the debut of the Code 11.59 collection in precious metals, Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models. The expansion included six Code 11.59 references – three Selfwinding and three Selfwinding Chronographs – featuring a fresh dial pattern, new colourways, and striking gradient dials with ceramic elements. The brand continues the collection’s […]

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 25, 2025

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the Royal Oak’s bolder, more virile brother with a muscular case and bold juxtaposition of materials. In 2021, the “Beast” was given a facelift, resulting in a more ergonomic 43mm case with redesigned pushers housing the brand’s integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement. No stranger to ceramic […]

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Worn & Wound
Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Feb 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand.  Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch.  There are many examples of this throughout the brand...

Industrial Designer Tej Chauhan Reimagines the Rado DiaStar SJX Watches
Tissot Feb 14, 2025

Industrial Designer Tej Chauhan Reimagines the Rado DiaStar

Rado taps Tej Chauhan for a new evolution of its 1970s-inspired ceramic wristwatch in the second collaboration between the watch brand and the British industrial designer. Featuring ceramic-metal composite bezel in a yellow gold PVD-coating, the DiaStar Original x Tej Chauhan Special Edition retains the signature helmet-shaped case, but sports a radial pattern also found on Mr Chauhan’s preceding Rado collaboration. And the day-date display utilises the designer’s own font in bold colours. Initial thoughts Rado is a pioneer in materials innovation for watch cases, having introduced the first “scratch-proof” watch in 1962 thanks to the use of a metal composite. The new edition continues that with the use of Ceramos, a tungsten carbide-ceramic composite, but adds flavour to the 1970s design with Tej Chauhan’s touch on the dial and hands. His additions to the design set it apart, but still remain coherently 1970s in style. The look is not for every, but it does well in being a 1970s-style design with a twist. As is typical for Rado, the new DiaStar is priced reasonably. It costs US$2,250, which is value considering the materials. Most of the competition’s watches with such features cost more. Arguably the only shortcoming is the Powermatic 80 movement. Though reliable and offering an 80-hour power reserve, it is also widely used in less expensive watches from Rado’s sister companies like Tissot. Helmet-shaped case Water-resistant to 100 m, the new DiaStar retain...

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Feb 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really?  Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points.  My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...

Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase SJX Watches
Piaget s Polo Combines Feb 11, 2025

Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase

Piaget is dialling up the complexity of its popular sorts watch with the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. Housed in a 44 mm, cushion-shaped titanium case, the new Polo features a partially open-worked dial that reveals the flying tourbillon - with cage topped by a stylised “P” - alongside a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock. Interestingly, the ultra-thin cal. 642P inside is a form movement in a tonneau shape. Initial thoughts The Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase adds an interesting pair of complications to the Polo, but without impacting the simplicity or symmetry of the dial. It’s a high-end alternative to the more affordable Polo models, like the Skeleton Ceramic, but it is also the largest Polo at 44 mm in diameter. This will affect wearability, making it versatile than the smaller-format Polo models. That said, because the movement is ultra-thin, the large case has an elegant, thin profile. As an aside, an open back would have been a welcome addition, since it would provide a view of the tonneau-shaped movement. Tourbillon This 44 mm cushion-shaped titanium case is finished with alternating mirror polishing and satin-brushing, complemented by blue-coated inserts on the case flanks. Water-resistant to 100 m, it frames a partially open-worked dial that’s finished with horizontal fluting as is standard for the Polo. Visible from both the front and back, the flying tourbillon is framed by a blue seconds ring on the dial, allowing the cage to double up as ...

Bamford Introduces their First Dive Watch, the D-300 Worn & Wound
Rolex sports watches So Feb 5, 2025

Bamford Introduces their First Dive Watch, the D-300

There was a time not too long ago when hearing the name “Bamford” conjured images of customized luxury watches of all stripes, sometimes with a level of taste that would make many enthusiasts sneer. That’s the nature of custom watches, though. The designs come from the mind of the owner as much as the customizer, and hardcore enthusiasts have really never been too keen on modifying, for example, stainless steel Rolex sports watches. So the fact that Bamford is now synonymous not with custom tweaked watches (although they still do this, primarily with LVMH brands) but affordable and accessible watches geared directly toward the enthusiast market is a turn that few would have predicted a decade or so ago. But it seems to be a reflection of where Bamford Watch Department’s founder George Bamford’s interests really lie.  Their latest is perhaps the brand’s most ambitious creation to date. After gaining steam over the past few years with a series of well received character watches (including a number of whimsical GMTs), Bamford has pivoted to a new dive watch concept featuring a ceramic case and a bunch of little design details that make it stand out. The new D-300 diver is available in a total of four colors: white, black, navy and green. The ceramic bit here is actually an outer shell around a titanium core, a method of case construction widely used in the watch industry that helps strengthen the case and also control costs (these watches come in at $1,950). The ...

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Fratello
IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Feb 2, 2025

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch

On a recent trip to a series of massive dunes on Australia’s east coast, I had to contend with what watch to take. In the end, I decided to take the IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch due to its ceramic construction. You see, ceramic cases offer several advantages over stainless steel. One of those is the […] Visit Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

Aquastar Introduces the Benthos Heritage II SJX Watches
Doxa also Jan 28, 2025

Aquastar Introduces the Benthos Heritage II

A historical brand that was recently revived, Aquastar continues to mine its past catalogue with the Benthos Heritage II, a contemporary interpretation the original Benthos diver’s watch of 1970. Drawing on sketches from Aquastar’s archives, the new release has a typical 1970s style with a “turtle” case that’s a suitably compact 40 mm in diameter, but with a modern-day ceramic bezel insert and Sellita movement. Initial thoughts The Benthos Heritage II is essentially an affordable, wearable dive watch with contemporary specifications and materials. While the brand’s earlier Benthos was a substantial 42 mm by 15.4 mm, the new model is scaled down, reduced by 2 mm in diameter and 3.5 mm in thickness, giving it the smaller, vintage-like proportions that are popular today. However, Aquastar is just one of many brands producing vintage-inspired dive watches. In fact, its owner was also behind the relaunch of Doxa, also a brand specialising in vintage-remake dive watches. As a result, the new Benthos is not a unique concept, but it is well considering the price. Priced at US$1,490 on a stainless steel bracelet, the Benthos Heritage II is a decent value proposition. It’s priced similarly to other micro-brand offerings of comparable quality, but unlike startup brands, it comes with the historical background of the Aquastar brand. Part of its affordability is explained by the pre-order sales model, which means orders placed and paid for now will only be fulfilled in Ma...

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Expands Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton Monochrome
Rado True Square Skeleton Rado Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton

Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]

Hublot Unveils this Year’s Lunar New Year Limited Edition Spirit of Big Bang Worn & Wound
Hublot Unveils Jan 8, 2025

Hublot Unveils this Year’s Lunar New Year Limited Edition Spirit of Big Bang

2025 is the year of the snake in China, and Hublot has been creating special limited releases for the Chinese New Year since 2016. This year’s rendition, which has traditionally been implemented on Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang has just been announced, and you and I both know, before even seeing images of the new watch – that there’s going to be a snake on it somewhere.  By looking at the press images of this watch, it’s quite apparent that the snake theme is in the forefront of the design. It’s cleverly integrated into the serpent like shape of the sub-dial’s borders, which are entirely adjoined in gold plated fashion and flow effortlessly into each other.   The snake theme doesn’t stop there, but actually continues on both the bezel and the rubber strap with the integration of a scale like engraving. While the year-end theme of the watch is a big attraction that will initially draw you in, the details of the high horology watchmaking is what’s really going to keep you intrigued. The watch case is fully ceramic and the bezel has been screwed down with visible screws. The watch also features a fully open dial setting, showing off the inner workings of chronograph calibre HUB4700, which is actually based on an original El Primero chronograph movement from 1969, of course with this modified variant having some upgrades such as the low friction silicon escape wheel.  The watch is priced at $35,100, but is limited to a tiny production volume of 88 pieces. T...

New Seiko x Shohei Ohtani Limited Edition Prospex GMT Divers For 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jan 2, 2025

New Seiko x Shohei Ohtani Limited Edition Prospex GMT Divers For 2025

Just announced by Seiko is a pair of limited-edition Prospex watches done in collaboration with Los Angeles Dodgers phenomenon Shohei Ohtani. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 are both takes on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, which was released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches will come in the iconic Dodger Blue colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. While not totally on theme here, I recall Ohtani wore a Grand Seiko SBGJ217 back in 2023 when he signed with the Dodgers. For a little context, these aren’t the first Seiko watches done in collaboration with Ohtani. The first was the Prospex Diver SBDC191, which came in out in 2023, while he still played for L.A.'s other baseball team, the Angels of the American League. That watch had the red seconds hand and dial text as well as Ohtani’s signature on the clasp. These new watches have the Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 share the same basics as the standard 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, recognizable for its vintage-inspired, Marine Master-esque design. Measuring 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, and with a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement, these watches are water-resistant to 200 meters and boast a very well-made ceramic bezel. The real GMT nerds will be a little disappointed with the lack of ...

Exhibition: ‘Cartier, The Power of Magic’ in Shanghai SJX Watches
Cartier Nov 29, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Cartier, The Power of Magic’ in Shanghai

Now open at the Shanghai Museum East, Cartier, the Power of Magic is an exhibition that comes exactly two decades after the jeweller’s first-ever exhibition in China. Made up of over 300 jewels and objects from the Cartier Collection and museums around the world, the exhibition explores Chinese art, Cartier’s history, and the influence of Chinese culture on the jeweller’s creations. Pierre Rainero, Cartier Image, Style and Heritage Director, describes the exhibition as “distinctly more analytical, taking a fresh look at the bonds uniting China and Cartier, and also at a relatively unexplored yet intrinsic aspect of jewellery: magic.” A desk clock with an imperial dragon motif sold by Cartier New York in 1925 A pair of 1920s Cartier screen clocks flanking a Qing Qianlong period jade table screen Chu Xiaobao, the Director of the Shanghai Museum, highlighted the significance of the exhibition, “The concept of Cartier, which goes beyond the art of jewellery to capture the eternal beauty, bears a striking resemblance to the timeless value of ancient Chinese art”. Notably, the aesthetics for the exhibition were devised by the artificial intelligence model cAI, which was created by Chinese contemporary artist Cai Guo-Qiang and his studio. The backdrop of the exhibitions are traditional Chinese landscapes combined with Chinese courtyard manuscripts generated by the AI. But Mr Cai’s presentation also encompasses physical objects, which were crafted in ceramic and st...

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Nov 28, 2024

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...

Omega’s Mystery Seamaster Diver 300M is Finally Revealed Worn & Wound
Omega s Mystery Seamaster Diver Nov 21, 2024

Omega’s Mystery Seamaster Diver 300M is Finally Revealed

Remember the Paris Olympics? It seems, somehow, like they took place a lifetime ago, but it was just this past summer – mere months ago. It was a crazy time. Lots of conversation about the pollution in the Seine, an all time great gymnastics competition, and, of course, Daniel Craig teased a new Seamaster in a conspicuously inconspicuous way. If you’re a Seamaster fan who has been waiting with baited breath for the full details of that mystery watch to be announced, it appears that Omega is making all of your wishes come true this week, with the announcement of not, but two new Seamaster references that seem aimed directly at the enthusiast market (and James Bond fans).  The new versions of the Seamaster Diver 300M are actually a significant departure from the current generation of the watch, which history will likely remember as being absolutely loaded with one of the key watchmaking materials of this generation: ceramic. The standard issue Seamaster we’ve become familiar with over these last few years has not only a ceramic bezel, but a polished and laser engraved ceramic dial. While many collectors and enthusiasts obviously find a certain appeal in the brightly colored and/or meticulously polished ceramic, these watches always had a lot of it, and dive watch fans looking for a daily wearer with more classic tool watch vibes were likely left wanting with the current Seamaster.  These updated references remove ceramic from the equation entirely. There are two new ...

Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up Nov 12, 2024

Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver

Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Girard-Perregaux Nov 4, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Review

I enjoy a good retro-revival, but I especially love it when it’s a super-niche piece like the Girard-Perregaux Casquette. First introduced back in the 1970s, the very cool Casquette was brought back in 2022 in the form of the Casquette 2.0. According to GP, something like 8,000 examples of the original Casquette were produced between 1976 and 1978. That unique driver-style case with LED display was basically unchanged for the 2.0, which came in a slick, black ceramic case. Now, we see the release of a new Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold, which I was able to get my hands on and spend some time with. Luxury digital watches are few and far between but I have to say, there is nothing like the Casquette out there. As someone who has seen and handled just about every watch out there, I personally would rather plunk down just shy of five grand on this digital watch over many, many mechanical pieces in that price range. Where the inaugural Casquette 2.0 was done in a black ceramic and bracelet, this new iteration  opts for a Grade 5 titanium case with yellow-gold GP logo and pushers and a matching titanium bracelet with rubber lining. It is absolutely insane to see this level of quality and finishing on an LED-display watch, but it sparks so much joy in my heart to see a brand have the guts to do so. The case dimensions are spot-on for a piece that needs some wrist presence to properly convey its vibes. The sleek, angular case measures 42.4mm tall and 33.6mm wi...

TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 1, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna

TAG Heuer is introducing a third generation of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in collaboration with the Senna brand, a commemorative company dedicated to the late Ayrton Senna’s legendary career as three time Grand Prix world champion. Senna’s racing legacy is intertwined with the watch world and has always conjured images of the TAG Heuer 6000 Senna Limited Edition in the minds of collectors. This was the very first watch that Ayrton produced together with TAG Heuer, and he was still with us at the beginning of its conception to have a say in its design.  In 2018 TAG Heuer released the first Carrera chronograph tourbillon editions, followed by another iteration in 2019. While many of us are quite fond of the original designs that feature a very distinct era specific aesthetic, such as small case sizes with heavily rounded edges, these new models are extremely modern in contrast. Launching today is the reference CBU5081.FT6274 – a serious chronograph watch with a grade 2 titanium case, ceramic tachymeter bezel that can measure up to 400 kmh, and a display of TAG Heuer watchmaking prowess in the form of a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It doesn’t get much more contemporary sporty than a watch like this, using cutting edge materials and high horology watchmaking techniques such as its fully skeletonized dial and the tourbillon itself.  The yellow, blue, and green accents each have their spot around the dial of the watch, aiding in reading the elapsed time of the ch...

Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Nov 1, 2024

Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time

Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit. A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands. Initial thoughts Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch. At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design. In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel,...

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event Worn & Wound
Tudor x Worn & Wound Oct 25, 2024

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event

Just dip into the Worn & Wound YouTube channel search for Tudor. Whether it’s ongoing interest in our hands-on videos with their watches or the popularity of our Thunderdome series, it’s clear that Tudor is an extremely important brand to our enthusiast audience. So when they offered their Tudor Boutique within the Tourneau space in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan as a venue for the kick off event of the Windup Watch Fair NYC weekend, we were both honored and excited. The Thursday before any Windup weekend is filled with anticipation that you can genuinely feel. Fairgoers seem to be gearing up for either battle, a concert by their favorite band, or a little of both. The Tudor Boutique was a perfect place to both harness that energy and build on it for the rest of the long weekend. Their boutique is designed to be a part showroom and part gathering space for the Tudor-curious. Last Thursday night, it was filled to capacity with fans of both the Worn & Wound and Tudor brands. This was most evident in the sheer amount of interesting and unique Tudor watches on the wrists of multiple attendees! Attendees were greeted with a signature cocktail called the “METAS Manhattan,” referring of course to the Master Chronometer certification. A comprehensive standard that covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including: precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Watches like Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic, the Black Bay, and the...

Oris Debuts the New Divers Date Worn & Wound
Oris Debuts Oct 18, 2024

Oris Debuts the New Divers Date

Oris is reaching a huge milestone, and that’s the 60th anniversary of their renowned Divers Sixty-Five, a watch collection that’s always been imbued in 1960’s nostalgia. Today they’re updating the Divers Date, a collection that on first glance may look quite familiar to you, but upon closer inspection reveals an entirely new concept.  Apart from the obvious changes such as the new dial options, which have now moved from the previous more outgoing array, to what can now be perceived as a more subdued industrial chic black, blue, and beige – the watch has gone through a substantial technical upgrade in both its aesthetic and its functionality. Oris has always catered to a loyal base of watch enthusiasts, ensuring they only produce high value mechanical watches with meaningful heritage behind them. The new Divers Date really follows along this line of thinking, but augments the owners experience with this new release. Some of the notable aesthetic changes include a slight thickening and increased weight to the case, to create a touch more presence and more compact feeling on the wrist, as explained by their designer Lukas Bühlmann. The side profile of the case has also been reshaped, giving it a more mature and substantial style. The most impressive material upgrade has to be the new ceramic bezel insert, which was previously aluminum. This was a much-anticipated upgrade for the collection, seeing that most other watch brands have moved to ceramic in the past few...

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Best Diver Ever? Oct 11, 2024

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...