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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Introducing - The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions Monochrome
Jun 15, 2026

Introducing - The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions

Artya is known for not shying away from creativity, boldness and boundary-pushing designs, and proves this once more with its latest release. Following earlier models like the Purity Tourbillon, Purity Stairway to Heaven and Purity Central Tourbillon housed in the brand’s signature sapphire cases, the Geneva-based manufacture now introduces the Purity Tourbillon Sport Edition, a limited […]

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)

What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...

First Look - The Double-Signed Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida & Co. Monochrome
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Jun 2, 2026

First Look - The Double-Signed Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida & Co.

When Zenith, celebrating its 160th Anniversary, revived the Calibre 135 in 2025 with the launch of the G.F.J. collection, the manufacture brought back one of the most important precision movements, a calibre that dominated observatory chronometry competitions throughout the 1950s and remains the most awarded movement of its kind. Taking the story in an unexpected […]

SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Jun 1, 2026

SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex

For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Roventa-Henex chief executive Jérôme Biard at the company’s secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes. The discussion covers the emergence of the ‘micro-brand’ (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Fratello
Zenith Introduces May 29, 2026

Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II

Zenith marks the 250th anniversary of the United States with the release of the Chronomaster Revival Liberty II. This launch follows the original North American exclusive from several years ago. The new model strengthens the historical link between the Swiss manufacture and American industrial history. Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot famously visited the United States in […] Visit Zenith Introduces The Chronomaster Revival Liberty II to read the full article.

Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Introducing - The New David Candaux DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre where he contributed May 25, 2026

Introducing - The New David Candaux DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon

David Candaux, born and raised in Le Solliat, in the Vallée de Joux, belongs to a lineage of watchmakers. Yet his work consistently merges classical craftsmanship with highly personal engineering and design solutions. After years at Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he contributed to some of the manufacture’s most ambitious projects, and later collaborations with some of the […]

Hands-on - The Marco Lang Seven Spheres, a 7-Axis Tourbillon Built with Pure Watchmaking Idealism Monochrome
Lang & Heyne has always practised watchmaking May 22, 2026

Hands-on - The Marco Lang Seven Spheres, a 7-Axis Tourbillon Built with Pure Watchmaking Idealism

Marco Lang, known to many as co-founder of Lang & Heyne, has always practised watchmaking with a deeply personal perspective. Since leaving the Dresden-based manufacture and launching his own independent path, his work has become even more intimate and experimental, and the Seven Spheres is the best expression of his creative freedom so far. The […]

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm May 13, 2026

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold

Parmigiani Fleurier’s luxury sports watch collection, the Tonda PF, got off to a flying start with the release of not one but two chronographs in its inaugural 2021 lineup. Led by the refined Split Seconds in platinum and the high-frequency COSC-certified integrated manufacture movement powering the steel Tonda PF Chronograph, the collection may be understated […]

First Look - The 200th Anniversary Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated May 1, 2026

First Look - The 200th Anniversary Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

In 2026, Moritz Grossmann marks the 200th Anniversary of its founder, one of the key figures behind the rise of Glashütte as a watchmaking centre. Not looking backwards with literal recreations, the manufacture continues with its vision of evolution, respecting traditional Saxon watchmaking but expressing it through contemporary design and execution. The new Tefnut Silver-Plated […]

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 Deployant
Patek Philippe Apr 17, 2026

Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Patek Philippe brought more than twenty new references to WWG26 across its main collections. Instead of running through the full list, we pulled out five models that give a clear sense of what the manufacture introduced this year - one from each of the major lines and representative of the updates shown at the fair. [...] The post Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C. Strike One in Titanium with Salmon Dial Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Strike One Apr 16, 2026

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C. Strike One in Titanium with Salmon Dial

Thirty years ago, Chopard’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, opened the Manufacture in Fleurier. The first in-house calibre, L.U.C 1.96, a slim automatic micro-rotor movement, made its debut inside the L.U.C XPS 1860 the following year. Rapidly ascending the complications ladder, in 2006, Chopard celebrated the tenth anniversary of its Manufacture with the release of the L.U.C […]

Introducing - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls Series Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Apr 15, 2026

Introducing - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls Series

The Reverso has lent itself to artistic expression quite naturally. Since its creation in 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reversible case has provided a perfect canvas for decoration, engraving and enamel work. In recent years, the Manufacture and its Métiers Rares atelier used this possibility extensively and offered tributes to the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. Following earlier interpretations […]

Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic - This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication Worn & Wound
Oris 24-Year-Old Product Design Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic - This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication

Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication.  The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue in Lucent Steel

Chopard celebrates 30 years since the founding of its Manufacture in Fleurier, and the L.U.C collection, named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard, continues to highlight the brand’s most technical and refined timepieces. Among the anniversary releases, the new L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue presents an evolution of the sector-dial model in green introduced in 2024. This new edition […]

Introducing: The Awe-Inspiring Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Fratello
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: The Awe-Inspiring Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

The Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition introduces a fully reworked take on the brand’s most complex watch to date. The Biel-based manufacture combines its patented resonance system with an entirely new striking mechanism. The result feels more intricate and compact, and it even has a party trick up its sleeve! This release […] Visit Introducing: The Awe-Inspiring Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition to read the full article.

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860 SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Apr 15, 2026

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860

To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective.   The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...

Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers Fratello
Tudor Launches Apr 14, 2026

Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers

For 2026, Tudor has updated its extensive Royal lineup with new sizes, refreshed dial designs, and manufacture movements. The upgrade in calibers, in particular, is an anticipated and welcome step forward. But the aesthetic updates are also quite nice, giving some of the models a retro touch. Let’s take a closer look at the revitalized […] Visit Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference Apr 13, 2026

Introducing - The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarme 24-hour Reference 5322G

Among the many novelties presented by Patek Philippe on the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, the Geneva manufacture expands its range of complications useful for everyday life with the elegant yet modern Calatrava 5322G reference, featuring a 24-hour alarm. Available in green or blue, its design pairs a dial with a black-gradient rim and […]