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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; Time+Tide
Omega Feb 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F;

It’s the Winter Olympics, an event that once again raises baffling questions for those of us who haven’t grown up in Alpine regions. Why is that skier carrying an assault rifle? What are those curling guys doing with little brooms? And what in God’s good name is the sport of monobob? But then, of course, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega at the Winter Olympics and a special release for MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rafael Nadal Wears A Richard Mille RM 27-04 As He Plays In The Australian Open 2022 Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 27-04 As He Jan 26, 2022

Rafael Nadal Wears A Richard Mille RM 27-04 As He Plays In The Australian Open 2022

If you’ve been watching the 2022 Australian Open (as Elizabeth Doerr has), you may be wondering about the prominent watch seen on Rafael Nadal’s right wrist (he’s left-handed), which has been a constant companion no matter what he’s doing – even while playing his grueling matches on court. It's a Richard Mille RM 27-04 with an innovative mesh tennis-string-style "plate" as Elizabeth explains here.

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking SJX Watches
Jan 3, 2022

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking

This is the story of a man, my great grandfather Dominik “Dinko” Bakuk Kovacevic, his Waltham pocket watch, and the legacy of the American watch industry. Though he died before I was born, Dinko is a significant figure in my life because I was given my middle name, Dominic, in his honor. Dinko was born in 1875 in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar on the Dalmation coast of what is now Croatia, but was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a young man, Dinko joined the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Navy and quickly rose through the ranks to become an officer. My great grandparents, Dominik and Aloisia Kovacevic, on their wedding day in 1908 Following his military service, at the age of 27, he set sail from the French port of Le Havre for New York City, aboard the SS La Lorraine. He arrived on Ellis Island in New York Harbor on August 16, 1902. He was joined by his fiancee Aloisia six years later, and they were married a few days after her arrival in the US in 1908. The SS La Lorraine, the ship that brought Dinko to the United States in 1902. Image – Library of Congress After his arrival in the US, Dinko moved west, like many entrepreneurial immigrants of his generation. By 1920, he was the proprietor of a grocery store in Tonopah, Nevada, before eventually settling near Berkeley, California where my mother’s family still lives. Dinko passed away in 1953, by which time he was affectionately known within the family as “Grandpa Old Man.” My great grandmother, ...

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes Dec 12, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle

At the end of the day, what is a GMT really all about? The Bulgari Aluminium GMT seems to sum it up quite well when you think about it enough. If you’ve got overseas family, you’re probably used to doing the mental calculations in a split second. If you’re travelling across timezones, your smartphone will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT just oozes the feel-good lifestyle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch Time+Tide
Seiko H558-5000 Oct 23, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch

EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 Aug 24, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial

After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 24, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2

Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500 Time+Tide
Aug 1, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500

At Time-Tide, we have a history of covering the new releases of Elshan Tang, the owner and designer behind Zelos Watches in Singapore, and he seldom disappoints. I wouldn’t be exaggerating by proclaiming his prolific output to be a milestone that many a budding microbrand owner aims for and it’ll take more than a mere … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 31, 2021

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise

In eighteenth-century England, a typical sign outside a gin shop read, “Drunk for a penny. Dead drunk for twopence. Clean straw for nothing.” But by the twentieth century Sir Winston Churchill reported that, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Ken Gargett fills his glass and takes a look at the evolution of gin. Cheers!

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How I learned to stop worrying and love watchspotting Time+Tide
Casio nal “watchspotting” I confess Jul 29, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How I learned to stop worrying and love watchspotting

When I first joined the Time+Tide team, I was given the remit of doing some occasional “watchspotting”. I confess that I wasn’t particularly enthused at this prospect of scrutinising pics of famous actors, musicians and athletes in order to identify whether they just so happened to be wearing a noteworthy watch. In fact, I was … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How I learned to stop worrying and love watchspotting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2021

I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again…

There’s a line usually attributed to Albert Einstein that claims that “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.” Unfortunately, this brutal logic can apply to watches, too. You buy a particular timepiece but, after the initial honeymoon period wears off, you realise that it’s perhaps no longer as indispensable … ContinuedThe post I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Goes Green with Plant-Based Straps SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Goes Green Jun 29, 2021

Greubel Forsey Goes Green with Plant-Based Straps

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just made a surprise announcement: the brand will be permanently eliminating animal leather straps for its timepieces, instead replacing them with straps made of plant-based materials starting next year. While not the first brand turning towards sustainable alternatives to animal leather  – Swatch and Cartier did so earlier this year – Greubel Forsey is the first to undergo a complete transition, doing away with animal hides entirely. And with its most affordable watch still carrying a six-figure US dollar price, Greubel Forsey is certainly the only brand at the top end of the market doing so. More broadly, the luxury-watch industry has been making slower progress than the luxury-car industry, which has speedily moved on to greener materials for interiors. That is perhaps driven in part by the fact that traditional carmakers are already regarded as major polluters, with upstarts like Tesla accelerating away. Giants such as Bentley and Mercedes-Benz now rely on specialists like Dinamica and Vegea for leather replacements that are actually recycled paper and plant-based material respectively. That’s proof that a similar pivot for watchmakers is achievable, which is the opinion of Greubel Forsey chief executive Antonio Calce. “The technical offer for plant-based straps is mature,” noted Mr Calce in the announcement, “And our clients are by nature forward-thinking and welcoming of innovati...

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now Time+Tide
Chopard Jun 26, 2021

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now

“Environmentally friendly” isn’t a phrase that immediately comes to mind when you think of the watch industry. Craftsmanship, passion and heritage might be more likely answers in a word association game with your psychologist. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t parts of the industry that are genuinely doing their bit. Chopard is well-known for … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.