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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” Fratello
Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies Dec 2, 2024

Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green”

Following the success of the Czapek × Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color. Despite […] Visit Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin As Vacheron Constantin gears Nov 29, 2024

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin

As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.  

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5711/1500A Becomes Most Nov 26, 2024

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Nov 9, 2024

F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent

The first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe is now the most expensive timepiece made by an independent watchmaker: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” just sold for CHF7.32 million (equivalent to US$8.36 million), including fees, at Phillips in Geneva. Delivered in 1993 to an astute Parisian collector, the watch was the second wristwatch ever made by Mr Journe. He retained possession of the first wristwatch, which now resides in his museum. As far as François-Paul Journe is an important watchmaker, Tourbillon “15/93” is an important watch – a fact proven by the hefty price. Despite the headline number, the bidding for Tourbillon “15/93” was unexpectedly truncated. As soon as auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened the bidding at a mere CHF1 million, Paul Boutros shouted a CHF5 million bid, causing a stir in the room. Mr Boutros, the watch department chief for the Americas, was bidding on behalf of a client on the phone who is perhaps the world’s biggest F.P. Journe collector. The huge opening bid quickly eliminated all other bidders – there were a half dozen other phone bidders – save for one gentleman in the room who has good taste and an impressive collection of independent watchmaking. The gentleman in the room made two more bids but bowed out (though he did win another notable timepiece during the sale), leaving Mr Boutros’ client to walk away with the watch for CHF6 million hammer, which is CHF7.32 million with fees. Th...

Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer Fratello
Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1500A Nov 4, 2024

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 “Third Series” Nov 4, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...

Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Oct 30, 2024

Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic

You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, […] Visit Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic to read the full article.

Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Oct 29, 2024

Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition

I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made […] Visit Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition to read the full article.

Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations Worn & Wound
Oct 28, 2024

Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations

The concept of a “mid-life crisis” has long had a negative connotation thanks to the word “crisis” implying a moment of difficulty, but I’d suggest we rethink this as a mid-life turning point. For Lilian Thibault, founder of Awake, this moment came when he reached a certain age and his kids began to grow. He took the opportunity to turn a mid-life crisis into a mid-life reinvention. After years of investing in other successful businesses, he decided to invest in himself and his own passions. Lilian had been an avid watch collector for more than two decades, and in 2018 he set out to create his own brand-Awake was born. “As my kids are growing older, I’ve started to think more and more about the legacy that will be left behind for them,” Lilian told me. “I decided I wanted to bring my own brand to market that reflects the vision I would like to see in the world for the next generation. This is, in fact, why I chose the name ‘Awake,’ I have a mission to awaken people’s attention to beauty and what really matters in life.” Lilian Thibault To bring his vision to life, Lilian launched a Kickstarter to raise funds for production in 2018. The campaign was originally planned to run for a month, but the brand reached its goal of $30,000 within an hour and ended up raising $400,000-Lilian was clearly onto something, and his vision was resonating. A year later, the brand unveiled its first collection aptly named “Origins.” In the spirit of thinking a...

Introducing the Ming 37.02 Minimalist with new “Polar White” Lume Worn & Wound
Ming 37.02 Minimalist Oct 23, 2024

Introducing the Ming 37.02 Minimalist with new “Polar White” Lume

My Geneva Watch Days meeting with Ming Thein was easily one of my favorites of that whirlwind week. It was one of those hours where you’re presented with watch, after watch, after watch, and you kind of can’t help but get lost in all of the cool stuff you’re seeing. Ming was incredibly kind to pull out watches that have been out (and sold out) for years, just so I could get a look at random pieces here and there from throughout the brand’s history that I may have missed. Seeing the full scope of the brand, though, is important in understanding the newest piece, one that I saw under embargo in that meeting, that Ming is incredibly proud of. The 37.02 Minimalist is not the flashiest or most expensive Ming, but it feels like a watch that sees the brand entering a new and exciting phase.  According to the brand, the 37.02 is the first watch in the Ming catalog to be designed, engineered, and managed by Horologer Ming SA, the brand’s new Swiss entity. Horologer Ming SA was created in an effort to streamline and internalize Ming’s complex engineering and production processes while maintaining as much control as possible over the supply chain. This, ultimately, is what the brand hopes will lead to the shorter lead times that their collectors (and would-be collectors) have been asking for for years.  That’s exemplified nicely in the 37.02, a watch that leans on core Ming design characteristics that have been developed since the brand’s founding, while also pushin...

Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! Fratello
Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! We’ve kept Oct 17, 2024

Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion!

We’ve kept our collective lips zipped about the new Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion after seeing it during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Now it’s ready to debut in a choice of two case finishes. The UR-150 Scorpion hosts a new movement and an enhanced complication. As always with Urwerk, it’s a feast for the eyes! During our […] Visit Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! to read the full article.

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment

One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...

Introducing a Sporty New Allure Chronograph from Depancel Worn & Wound
Oct 8, 2024

Introducing a Sporty New Allure Chronograph from Depancel

Clement Meynier, an engineer, was fascinated by the automotive and horological world, which led him to enroll in a watchmaking training center in Geneva. Six years ago, he established his watch brand called Depancel, a name derived from a combination of three French car manufacturers: Delage, Panhard, and Facel. He aims to create watches that embody the same philosophies and creative freedom as those represented by these historic brands. Since its beginning, they have also established strong connections with the motorsport world. This includes participating in events such as the Rétromobile Paris and Epoqu’Auto Lyon and serving as the Official Sponsor of GPX Racing. Most recently, the company has partnered with the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone in the UK. New for 2024, Depancel is updating its Allure watch with a sleeker and more refined 36mm stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug tip measurement is only 42.8mm, and the overall thickness is just 10.95mm, making it suitable for any gender or wrist size. The cushion case design of this watch is inspired by the 1970s, and it is made almost entirely of brushed steel, with the bezel being the only part that is mirror-polished. The short angular lugs and the shape of the end links give the appearance of an integrated bracelet, even though it is not. This design allows the watch to resemble an integrated bracelet sports watch, which is currently very popular while allowing you to pair it with your preferred straps...

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Oct 7, 2024

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph Fratello
Sep 30, 2024

Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph

It’s been roughly 18 months since Lorca founder Jesse Marchant unveiled his debut watch. Praised by the press and enthusiasts alike, the Model No.1 GMT presented a unique take on a multi-time watch. Instead of following the typical GMT category codes, Marchant created a watch much more characterized by its overall vintage-inspired elements. The result […] Visit Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Sep 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold

It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Sep 24, 2024

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches

There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point.  The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 Sep 16, 2024

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067

We visited Geneva Watch Days a few weeks ago, and Breguet was one of the brands exhibiting that week. In its beautiful boutique on the famous Rue du Rhône, Breguet showed us not only the new Type XX with steel bracelets but also (under strict embargo) this new gold Type XX Chronographe 2067. And now […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 to read the full article.

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Sep 11, 2024

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur

Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up Fratello
Sep 6, 2024

A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up

Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...